Hi Andrew, After a little more than 3 years of watching your tutorials, I've FINALLY decided to be brave and try flush settings. Thanks so much for all your help!🙂
Hiya & thank you, I learned as a spark back in the 70's that the why is almost more important than how, at least it is in getting the right mind set, so as I say thank you & stay safe...
Comment: I almost always drill through. A well cut faceted stone shouldn't need light coming in from the back, although not all faceted stones are well cut. But. getting dirt on the pavillion will dull the sparkle of faceted stones. The backs of stones inevitably get dirty even in a flush setting. Having an open back facilitates cleaning the pavillion.
Next video would you please cover buffing wheels. There are so many choices. Looking at the rio grande catalog. felt wheel, yellow treated, blend, muslin, loose coarse, chamois. And then there are some that look like scotch bright pads.
Thanks Andrew I find your videos very helpful. Could you do a video on setting multiple stones in close proximity such as in a pendant, maybe encrusting say a cross or dog tag ?
I did my first flush setting last week after the video. Came out lovely, done a real nice bright cut around the stone then too.. I knew that part about dragging the burr over to get the holes concentric, but what Iam finding trouble with is, u know when u drill thru the piece, say on a band where the stones are equal distance apart, how do we ensure the spacing of the holes underneath are evenly spaced? 🤔 I noticed one or two were closer together even tho the top they were spaced fine, does this come with experience, or isn't is as important underneath??. This has been a Great indept series on flush setting, thank u Andrew 👌 ps, got some gravers too 😉
Thank you for your way of explaining things. You have an excellent way of covering all facets on the gem of enlightenment making it easy to understand where you're going with things. This is the closest to what I'm searching for that I've been able to find. So...... if i was making a pavé or something like that with bead setting and all that jazz, is there some kind of ratio between the stone diametre and the size of the pilot hole that I should keep or is it just a hole wide enough for the pavillion and small enough to keep the stone from falling straight through? Are there any standards that should be upheld or is it something each one defines for him/herself as time goes by?
Fellow stone setter told me once that general rule is: pilot hole should be ~3/4 of stone diameter. Of course sometimes if stone is poorly cut, you need to re-invent stone setting ad-hoc and all "golden advices" are useless. If your stone don't fit the set that it logically should fit, inspect the pavillion and girdle - it might be curved and the set will require more "individual approach" than usually. Hope that helps, cheers!
andrew i hope you can can help me solve this problem, i have a lot of scrap sterling silver and when i melt down to an ingot it becomes brittle in certain spots ,it starts to crack after hammering to flatten out a bit and i do re heat it through out the stages of hammering it flat ...any advice you can give me .
dose it not cost you a fortune in butane gas for those small torches you use? when please you are doing a prong setting what size of wire do you use please, is it better to use square wire or round wire, if you use a 2mm stone or one point five mm stone and you use a one mm wire to make the prongs and setting the stone will be obliterated and if you use to thin wire it will not last for very long, can you sort me out please as I can only afford the smaller stones up two sat three mm at a lot of saving a four mm stone thank you for your time, take care keep well keep safe.
Hey Andrew, I like all your films without any exception. I have rather a silly question. I love making jewelry, especially rings for myself unprofessionally of course. I'm not working on silver because at this level it is too valuable for me to waste. That's why I was wondering whether you can suggest me a metal that I can practice on and have a similar experience.
Use solder. U shouldn't really have holes tho. Sounds like something went wrong. Maybe the mold wasn't hot enough, or the melt not being hot enough.. Tip I got from Andrew was, when u think it's all. Melted nicely keep Goin another minute or so U could try patch holes up with Flux and solder tho if u need to rescue the work
Hi - unfortunately you can't just use solder to "patch up" flaws from casting, it will fail it's assay. If the hole is shallow it's best to file down to smooth metal, or burnish over some metal from the high spots. If it's deep & narrow you can drill it out, & plug the hole using a piece of wire (rivet), & hammer to fit. Alternatively you could cut out shapes to make a pierced design, or even set small stones in their place... Lots of options!
Found your channel through this video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-RGcfTFyPJho.html by Pablo Cimadevila . Im new to this and i really love making things, thanks for all of this :) Cheers.
Andrew, let me continue the schoolmaster joking from yesterday. Today you called your calipet a gauge and that's fine. But you called your digitsl gauge a Vernier gusge and that is wrong. Mr Vernier invented the mechanical 10:9 scale on mechanicsl callipers. Your digital gadget does not have such scale. So it is not a Vernier gauge/calliper.
He ain't the only one that calls them verniers. And is it really that important to u to correct all his slips of the tongue an mistakes? I'd love to see your perfect videos?! 🤔
