Hey there Peter. Thanks for featuring the jig it was really nice to see it at work in another workshop. I thought I would add that you can also order the jigs through Etsy and this might be of interest for some who prefer to order through larger online stores. Just search for Waste Side Jig.
Good news if you've been trying to buy from my website Strawbyte (dot) com, I've just added some more inventory after I sold-out within hours. All orders received by 3.45 earlier today (Friday 12th) will ship tomorrow, orders received after that time will ship on Monday morning. Anyway thanks for all your support and thanks to Peter for featuring these simple track-saw aids today.
I think that two spacers in the flag stop end would make it faster and more accurate than to have to readjust the router for each flute. I would imagine that you already have some 50mm spacers ready for common cuts to make it faster? Great video as always!
Well Peter picked the perfect pick for the Phancy Phluted Phace Phrames phinally now all we have to do is wait for Peter to put the perfect paint job on the Phancy Phluted Phace Phrames...lol
It's taking you an awfully long time to build those bookcases! 😂 I know I've been hating on MDF all this time, but I recently used it for a project and it's now my new favourite material. It's very easy to work with, I can see why you use it for everything now! So much better than real wood for most projects
Lots going on so I have to spread these vids out a bit - paying work has to come first 🤷♂️ And yes, MDF is a fine material for the vast majority of painted work 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop I know it's a bit controversial, but I actually really like the look of 'raw' MDF, especially when french polished like in Andy's video
@@10MinuteWorkshop Have you ever done a glue size for MDF? I installed some MDF trim on top of a paint-grade mullion and the foreman had me glue size them before I installed. Seems to me it wasn't necessary but he was the boss of me so I dun what I was told. ;-)
Nice way to do repetitive flutes Peter ive always struggled with a router table but think im going to explore the track option in future. Thanks for the technique. Also great video sequences as ever.
I use the track and my OF1400. I run my router completely off the track. I purchased some polycarbonate plastic and made a secondary base plate that I attach directly to the router so it raises it up so it's level and at the same height as if it were sitting on the track. P. S. I do it that way because the plastic outrigger/foot thingy is wobbly, junky and one of the worst and least thought out features of any of my Festool products.
Still enjoying your videos Peter and another good one thanks very much. I must confess I had it my mind that you were doing a thicker section all round so that the face frame ended up flush with the walls and base to allow easy end book removal and insertion, seems not.
Good video as usual. I will throw this open as I am not a carpenter. An old cabinet maker once told me that the bit in between the flutes should be slightly less than the width of the flutes. Apparently it is more pleasing to the eye. I would welcome any comments.
Thanks Eddy! Infrequently, to be honest; can't remember the last time I had them done, so last year sometime, I'd say. They do seem to keep their edge well, the Festool blades, made by Leitz, I think 👍
Hi Peter, If possible can you do a video on a the differences between the domino and biscuit systems? Many thanks for your great videos, I've learnt so much - and ended up spending lots of money... (Makita track saw, Benchdogs rail square and the Axminster PARF )
Thats a nice setup Pete... I have a router table & I reckon your setup is faster ! Shims on the fence to index the flute positions would probably speed it up... 😒 BTW... I routed flutes like this a while back & I made the centre flute (of 3) slightly longer. Looks better to.... me at least ... 🙄 😎👍☘
Peter: These videos are top notch. You're opening my mind about working with MDF. It had never occurred to me to use MDF for a face frame. Over here everyone seems to use Poplar over a ply carcass. Not owning a planer/jointer MDF is appealing to me. Would it hold up for a built in desk application once painted? Oh and ordered two pair of those clever offcut pieces, one to give away to a friend. Thanks.
Hi Peter, love your channel. I’d love to see an episode on fasteners that work well with MDF. I know you use dominos for joinery, but what do you use if you need screws?
How did you glue up the top side to the shelves? Did you put glue on the dominos already installed in the shelves? Did you put any glue on the shelf/top surfaces? You skipped over this step and it is one of the most important parts of any glueup!!!!
The top to the uprights/sides? Yes, Glue & dominos, as with almost every joint I've made in a piece of fitted furniture pre-Lamello. I'm sorry if you feel I skipped over it, but I showed the process when I joined the side to the base and assumed it would be obvious enough that I didn't need to show me dabbing glue onto every joint; as you're the first person to ask the question in ~17 months and 14500 views, I think I was probably right, but as always, happy to answer any questions you have, to the best of my ability - and memory! Best, Peter 😆👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop My apologies for any sense of grumpy-ness on my part. I value your videos greatly. Without them I wouldn't be able to do the cabinetry that I am attempting to learn about. Working with dominos has been the most challenging part of building bookcases/cabinets for me. I have decided to not put glue on the dominos or in the mortise holes. I have 5 15 inch by 30 inch shelves to glue up all at once on 6ft sides, 4 dominos per shelf per side. I will glue the shelves to the sides and use a couple of small screws to make sure the side doesn't flex somehow. The great thing about dominos is their alignment ability plus their inherent shear strength. Also the joint is completely hidden, unlike pocket screws. Thanks so very much for your feedback.
Great vid that router on the track looks a lot easier than router table way ,I just got some of the same clamps and used them for the first time last night was really impressed with how much pressure can get out of them did you get them on the BOGOFF offer aswell
Thanks! Yes, I’ve never owned any parallel clamps before so took advantage of the offer. Yes, impressive amounts of pressure, but not at all sure I really need it. Plus they’re incredibly heavy, and I don’t find them particularly easy to use. We’ll see 🤷♂️👍
Haven’t opened the boxes on the CNC yet(!) but it’s way too small for something like this. But sure, if you have a machine capable then it would be nice to press a button and walk away! 👍👍
Great video as always Peter. At 11:35 you were using bar clamps... What brand are they and are they available in the U.S. or through someone in the U.K. that will ship to the U.S.? Thanks Peter. Ron
Thanks Ron, these are from Axminster here in the UK - bit.ly/axminster_clamp - pretty sure they’ll ship,to the US, but they’re heavy! Might cost as much as Bessey by the time they get to you! 👍👍
Peter Millard Thanks Peter. I will look them up. And yes Axminster will ship to the U.S. but I will check on shipping costs. Thanks for the heads up on the shipping costs. I’m having some issues with minor arthritis in my hands and these will help a lot. Are you happy with the functionality of the clamps? Any issues at all? And have you done a video on them? Thanks Peter and Keep up the good work on your channel. Several of my favorite RU-vid channels are from the U.K.. You all impress me with your abilities and solutions you come up with. My home shop is about the size of yours but a more open. I don’t know that I could get by as well as you do and mine is just a hobby. I guess you can get used to anything? All the best. Ron
Ron H Thanks Ron! No, no major issues with these clamps, other than the fact that they are very heavy; these are the first parallel clamps I’ve used, and they’re much heavier-duty - in every sense - than my usual cheap & cheerful f-clamps. A lot more money, too, to be fair. I like how the handles can be ‘folded over’ to apply a bit more pressure if your grip isn’t what it once was, and they are very solidly made. I bought these when they were doing a half-price promotion a little while so I’m perfectly happy with them as far as value goes! Hope that helps! P
Hi Mr. Millard, I watching your Videos about one year and finally sub to your channel. In a short time, we move to a smaller house and in the new house, I have two places for my shop. So one shop will be my regular woodworking shop and one shop I will prepare for painting so I have one for building and one for painting and drying. I have one question because for our new home I will build some of your nice furniture ;-) Have you ever issues with MDF cabinets doors? I mean the screws for the hinges. Big greeting from France Tim ;-)
Hi Tim, and thanks! No, I’ve never had any issues with cabinet doors made from MDF, though perhaps worth noting that I only use MR (Moisture Resistant) MDF, which is a better quality board. The only thing to watch out for really is driving screws into the cut edges (‘end grain’) where it can split if you don’t use a pilot hole. But I’ve never had anything fail on an MDF door, and I’ve made thousands of them. Your new workshop(s) sounds great btw - I’d love a separate painting / finishing space! 👍👍
As always Peter loving the vids, been waiting for the fluted demo as it’s something I want to try. I have a different router so I was wondering what the measurement is between the centres of the two bars that go through the router into the adapter (if I’m making sense). Looking forward to seeing the finished article!
Thanks for such a quick response - unlike mine (2 children, 3yrs & 1 today! 😂) seems my routers rod centres are about 115mm 🙄 any ideas other than getting a new router?
Nice clamps. Get them on a BOGOF by any chance? Picked up four on the offer myself. Does this mean there's a 'Posh clamp Vs cheap clamp' vid coming soon then?
Haha, yes, thought I’d take a punt on the ‘half-price’ thing. Not convinced tbh - they just seem heavy & awkward to use, and about 5x the price of any of the clamps I own, even at half-price 🤷♂️
@@10MinuteWorkshop They are heavy aren't they. I had to beef up my clamp rack! I do like the pressure you can get though, and those spacers are good for keeping the work off the bar. I need to get some more cheapo aluminium bar clamps. Any recommendations?
Hi peter great vid as usual, this might seem a silly question but is there a reason why you didn’t cut the groves the Length of the board? I would have thought it would have been a lot quicker that way?
The grooves in the uprights start & stop at set points relative to the carcass and the other face-frames, so feeding them through on the MFT made sense. The top & bottom face-frames are grooves all along, but once it’s all set up it was much easier just to press on as it was. 👍👍
That makes sense, Maybe you might have been able to use your Festool shelf pin track for the start and stops? It’s the amount of times you had to move the sheet of wood which could have caused errors not that would happen to you 😆😆. Just an idea
Thanks. Do you use mainly 6mm dominos (on 18mm board)? How do you ensure your top and bottom board middle domino centre line and mortises are perfectly centred on both boards
I mostly use 5x30mm dominos in 18mm board; if I used 6x40 I’d have to change the plunge depth between the face and the ends (15/25) which can lead to mishaps when you’re working fast. I use the Domi-plate to centre mortises in the ends of 18 & 12mm board, and I work off the MFT guiderail and the notches in the domino face to centre them in face boards e.g. the top & bottom of these carcasses. I cover the process in detail earlier in this build, video #304 👍👍
Excellent video Peter. Good idea for cutting the flutes. Where can I find the waste side cutting jig? I went to the Strawbyte workshop RU-vid channel and subscribed but can’t seem to find a link to the jig. Thanks Peter Ron
