I literally sat back with such a huge smile on my face watching him center the flywheel and measuring the run out. I was born to be a machinist and I'm stuck working in IT! ... SOON.
Awesome demonstrations, i kinda got lost still alittle, i know how to use a dial indicator its just them moving the straight block with the dial indicator from one surface to the next lol.
Nice video. However, I would like to suggest two things: 1. After you have tightened the center screw, you should check the centering again. 2. You should check the level of the flywheel surface with the dial indicator as well. If it's not completely flat, you should use shims between the spacer plate and the flywheel.
Good idea's. (1) would be easy to do. (2) a little more difficult. I can't check the level against the flywheel because it is not level. That is why it is being refaced. I guess I'm relying on my equipment to be calibrated and level. The mounting base and mounting plate. If they are true and running flat those are the important parts. Even if the flywheel mounting surface where the bolts are is not perfectly flat that is OK because I'm machining the flywheel flat to that surface. It is that surface that also bolts to the crankshaft so as long as the two surfaces are parallel there should not be any problems unless the crankshaft surface itself is damaged and untrue.
You were trained wrong. It's critical that you keep the step height the same or within .001". This is even more sensitive with hydraulic controlled clutches. If the flywheel did not have a step no measurement is needed.
@@DrivelineMaster yeah after watching your video I figured that one out. Thing is no one ever brought one back complaining about it in the year I worked there
Lucky you. Hydraulic clutches are very sensitive to material taken off. .008" - .012" maximum with no thickness specifications from the manufacture making it even harder to know if you have taken too much off. Even if they brought one back you can only take more off to correct the problem. AERA does have flywheel step specification but you won't find them in a manufacture manual so measuring before you grind is required if you don't have access to step specification. Even if one had been returned I doubt the parts store would have purchases a new flywheel for the customer. Depending on how much the step height is off the clutch can work for a short while after replacement. The clamping force on the disc is effected causing premature slippage so you may not know if the grind caused a problem for a 6 - 12 months depending on how the customer drives the vehicle and the location such as a city wit lots of steep hills like San Francisco.
No, I didn't point that out but I felt and looked when I cleaned it up with sand paper. This surface is not very likely to be dinged or burred not that it's not impossible.
Automotive Engines Rebuilders Association (AERA) does publish a step specification manual but believe it or not the factory does not publish a thickness specification or step specification or any recommended measurement methods. I inquired with a flywheel re manufacturing company once and they said that they have developed their own thickness specifications and measurement techniques. They told me that this was propriety and a company secret. It's pretty standard practice to measure the step before machining and duplicate that step measurement for after machining. I know, I would love to have a spec book to reference.
That is correct if the flywheel is badly worn. Typically if the clutch is replaced before it's completely worn out you can use the current step measurement. The only place I know to get step specifications is from AERA (Automotive Engine Rebuilder Association) PRO-SIS system. I'm sure there are other resources.
Flywheels are typically not re-balanced after reconditioning the disk face. I have never had a vibration problem. Similar to a brake rotor or drum after machining. They too are not re-balanced.
Yes, but it's not recommended, very tricky. I have not done it but when I had it done they would not give me any type of guarantee. Personally I would not be able to provide any advice on how to accurately recondition a Dual Mass Flywheel.
The tool I used was purchased from Snap-on however an internet search using the key word "Dowel Pin Removal Tool" got several hits of all different price ranges.
Search your local area for machine shop or often a local parts store can do this for you or knows of a place that can. If you have NAPA parts stores in your area this would be a good place to start.
There are no steering wheel guides on the flywheel. You might be referring to the the dowel pin removal tool that I used to remove the dowel pins from the flywheel. The one I used came from Snap-on but there are other brands out there.
Esta es una herramienta de extracción de clavijas a presión. No sé el número de pieza, pero hay varias otras marcas que deberían funcionar. Herramienta de eliminación de Google Dowel Pin Removal Tool. ( In English since I used google to translate into Spanish. This is a Snap-on dowel pin removal tool. I don't know the part number but there are several other brands that should work. Google Dowel Pin Removal Tool.)
good video,but flyweel are made in line production,in my company we make abot 220 pics of flyweel for eight hour,some are good some are bad dipends who is working
I have used a brake lathe in the past and the cutting bits will not take out a hard spot which could make it useless. Some lathe companies make or use to make a grinder attachment for the lathe that is used for flywheels. Some flywheels are just too large for a brake lathe. The intent of the video was to demonstrate to demonstrate how to properly use the machine as much as it was to reface the flywheel. Grinding is always preferred to a cutting bit for a flywheel surface.
Not always true. Really depends on what is burning, how much heat and even if the smell is even from the clutch. Burnt flywheels can be reconditioned but as I replied new is always better than reconditioned.
I'm sorry I do not know. I would suspect that it would take a very powerful magnet to keep it from moving and it would be very tricky to center the flywheel.
Yup, You are very observant. I saw no need to video that process 3 times. I try to keep my video's as short as possible so I don't lose the viewer interest.
This video does not grind a flywheel but instead uses a cutting bit like cutting or machining a brake rotor. If the flywheel has hard spots created by excessive heat cutting can't remove them but grinding will. Cutting also leaves small spiral grooves almost like a threaded screw and it's not the preferred method to recondition a flywheel surface.
