Wow, timely video for me, as I am just getting into RC flying with a Bixler 2, have been scouring the internet for clear cut info about this topic, and YOUR VLOG is the clearest and most succinct I have seen to date about the topic. Thank-you...
Very cool tips, this is the hobby paint I see at most stores & nothing would SUCK more than having a hand built plane getting chemical melted spots. Also you can take foam particles from sand/shaping & make a "Filler" to fill up holes, cuts, or mistakes w/o having to start over.... I've not built a plane yet so I'm happy to see these different tricks now, before I do something wrong.
PatBALEX Thanks Pat! Some Testors paints are foam safe But Most "Gloss" Testors paints will eat foam and destroy it. Polly-S & Tamiya Jar paint is also foam safe.
Great stuff Chris, I have been using tube craft paints for years. The use of these paints are unlimited. To go further as you advance it can be thinned with windsheild washer, water, rubbing alcohol added to water for speedier drying, a drop or 2 of dish liquid soap to help leveling. I also use inexpensive Home Depot samplers made to order with a scan of an exact color. It is thick and can be thinned at least 50% for spraying. Buy a cheap badger airbrush and you are ready. Or buy a good dual action airbrush for pro like jobs. After all done painting you can over spray your work with clear gloss,satin, or matter waterbase Miniwax polyurethane paint. I also finish my planes using Miniwax clear polyurethane oil base floor paint as the final coat. As a note, I found that the craft paint whites yellow over the years. Use the Home Depot white samplers instead.
ne0ns1 Hey Its great to hear from you Sir, Your a GREAT RC-builder! I like your Tips On Using These Great Tube water Based Paints, I find that most paints usually fade or Turn yellow or fade all together over the years, Only Covering film seems to hold up the best, Or Automotive powder-cote paint, I find that really thick paint holds up over the years.
ne0ns1 Thanks Chis, Feel bad for nitro guys as they may not be able to use waterbase with much luck unless there is a way to fuel proof. Can't camouflage a plane proper without paint either.. Plastic iron on just does not cut it on some scale planes. My garage shop is damp most times and with the humidity the waterbase dries slow and slows me down some. That is why I like windshield washer for thinner or some alcohol. I use my heat gun an awful lot while painting to speed the job up. That way I can get a load of painting done in a short period of time.Summer days when it is warmer I open my garage door and it is lower humidity. Sometimes spraying a big plane I setup outside on horses and git er done
Try Mod Podge, apply directly to foam, creates hard shell to spray or brush oil or water based paint. I prime after Mod Podge, but before my base coat color.
I have a pre-painted foam model, which I am planning on touching-up with some black, blue or white paint. I was thinking about using flat Testors enamel. I understand it should be foam safe. Acrylic may be a good choice too. Thanks for the video! -Scott V.
You can use straight aerosol paint but you must keep the nozzle about 12 to 15 inches away this allows the propellant to disapate in the air and prevents the aerosol from attacking the foam. I have used aerosols on my foam planes with no side effects such as this using a 12 to 15 inche distance.
TOPHAT1966GS that's very true Sir but it's hit or miss. . . If you build up too much paint layers even if the propellant has been evaporated it can still eat some types of foam. . . But in general your technique is correct. I wanted to show paints that have no possibility of harming foam what so ever.Tophat I'm grateful for your impute Sir.
Great video this new info really helps. Recently I pulled an old Hobbyzone Corsair S off its ceiling mounting clipped the wings and mounted a razorback canopy. My intent is to fix it up like a Reno air racer and it's going to need a new paint job. Would you recommend removing the original paint before re-painting it and with the shellack how much weight do you think it adds to a model and would you recommend it on a high performance aircraft? Great video I'm pretty sure I got to see one of these birds out at Joe Nall on Thursday (I was the TWA shirt guy) fantastic to see how they're made.
I started years ago (on epo) using the poly but in spraycan and then applying sandable primer, sanded down and then the appliance epoxy, came out looking like a dream... no idea it was foam by looking at it... For the paint you are brushing on why not use an airbrush?
End of the Road RC I hope they help Sir, Allot of this is Known stuff but Many 1st Time builders ask me these questions all the time so I make videos to answer these questions when I can. Thanks as always My Good Man!
Thank you. was wondering because I'm going to paint the twelve exhaust pipes and the six fifty caliber machine guns. Pretty fond of the warbirds and didn't want them to melt. Thank you.
Sure you can use a brush on or spray on "Paint Sealer" possibly Minwax water based sealer & that should give you a protective coating over your Delta Creative Acrylic paint.
My problem is, painting foam still looks like foam and if you put enough paint on a plane to fill it all in you added too much weight. I'm considering using iron-on covering next.
Thant's true but some people just want to add color to their foam plane to customize it so I try and help show people paints that can help them achieve their goal.
Demon, I understand perfectly your reasons...I was just saying how I felt about painting them. I do paint some of my smaller aircraft but the larger ones I prefer to use a lightweight, iron-on covering. I wasn't contradicting you at all, in any way. I like your channel!!! :o)
