You are a skilled presenter! You have clarified several important points into one concise video. Most others on RU-vid spend way too much time in irrelevant babble. Thank you!
The M Photography , This is great. I am new to the Leica eco-system. While I find it intuitive the piece I found most valuable is what not to do when focus. You are not kidding when the eye gets tired when fishing back and forth. It's also nice to hear someone reinforce theories you have. Thanks agin.
Thanks so much for your feedback! Appreciate it. Glad you liked it. Yes, the eye can get tired and confused faster than one might think when fishing for focus. At some point it's really hard to judge if something is in focus.
This was really great. I am new to an M set up and have enjoyed the challenge of the rangefinder over the past couple of months. The experience of shooting on an M is like nothing I have experienced before and I quite enjoy the challenge. This is the best video if have seen on zone focusing and explains how to adjust shutter and ISO. I have watched heaps...Keep making videos on the M cameras and Leica glass. Well done
Happy you liked the video. Will try my best also for future videos. Thanks a lot Fraser and keep enjoying your M. They are quite special but so rewarding cameras.
I have been using Leica rangefinders since I was 12 years old (IIIf). This video is absolutely fabulous. It helped me put the pieces together. Danke sehr.
Thank you for making this video - I do not own a rangefinder camera but was curious how the MF on these camera works. This very comprehensive video is a great explainer.
Apart from being an excellent and informative video, you have three things that set you apart in a positive way from the miscellany of other RU-vid videos: 1. You don't start with 'Hey, what's up!!!', (though it would be good to hear how it sounds in your accent). 2. It was not fast talking, making it too hard to take it in without constant 'backspacing'. 3. There was no cutting at the end of an utterance in order to sound zany or cut down the video time down. Thank you for your video.
Great video and excellent tutorial !! I’m about to get my new M11 (first time for me with a Leica) and this I know will help me a lot to start to learn how to use it and how to get the best of my new camera. Thanks you Marcus !!
...I do not understand what is the problem with "hunting" focus back and forth...sometimes I nail it imediately...sometimes I have to re-check with more one or two twists... Theoretically, Leica advises to start focus from infinity... Concerning the vertical lines, often you don't have them in your view...just turn the camera to vertical position, focus on the horizontal lines and reposition the camera in the horizontal position... Thanks, anyway, for the time and effort you put into this video!
Very clear explanation. I have a Leica M3 and found it very difficult to focus as I shot the first roll of film (mostly photographing young children!) Good advice to not keep trying to re-adjust focus, it does get confusing! I will use your suggestions for both methods of focussing, and I think they will make a big difference! So thanks very much!
Thank you so much for creating this video. I'm new to rangefinder cameras and have been enjoying shooting film with a Yashica Electro 35 G. This focusing method just made my day - I've spend so much time waffling the focus back and forth missing shots.
Thank you for your helpful tutorial. I have just bought a second hand M240 with a 50 mm 1.4 summicrom lens. I am relearning how to use a camera after years with my DSLR. I am staggered by my results so far but have also noticed how long it takes me to get my shots right. Your video helped a lot. My ambition is to cut down on my use of the back screen and almost get back to using my Leica more like a film camera.
I'm glad and relieved to have discovered your video. I work with the Leica Q but hope to add an M to my stable. I've never understood how to focus with a rangefinder camera but you've given me a very good start. Thank you.
Excellent explanation. Appreciate very much. I have been struggling using my M9 without LCD. I will start applying what you have just explained. Thank you.
Fabulous explanation. I have a Leica Q and a Leica X Vario (both have autofocus and manual focusing) and I am thinking of buying one of the M series cameras which of course would be a camera with manual focusing only. This video has really helped me to work out my options
hello I am a new M rangefinder owner and I love the no fuss of this camera , such a joy to use. Just to clarify , whilst zone focusing you ignore the focus box unless you're closer to the subject than the minimal zone distance? thank you very much
Correct. You can ignore the focus box as long as you shoot within the zone. Welcome to the world of rangefinders. Happy to hear that you enjoy your new M.
Thanks Marcus, nice video, you explained everything very well. Another useful tip for the first method is to usually keep the focus at infinity, so when you start focusing you always move in the same direction so no need to lose time thinking in which direction to move. Thanks again, and I always enjoy the images you add at the end, keep adding them please.
Good point to always start from infinity to only turn in one direction. Especially for beginners. Also happy to hear that you enjoy the images at the end. Appreciate it and thank you 🙏
Hello. Thanks for this, indeed I agree with the fact that going back and forth with the focus tab mixes you up :) I also 'forgot' when shooting that you have to focus on vertical lines otherwise it does not work ... This can be confusing when you start with a rangefinder because of the metering system you need to add on top. But at the end you learn so much more about photography using this awesome camera. Just got a M262, so basicaly like your M-D. I use Voigtlander lenses: their new 28mm f/2.8, the 40mm f/1.4 and the 50mm APO
super video. you are so easy to understand and i appreciate the calm tone! excellent. i am debating on adding leica m series camera coming from sony a7r series.
Thank you! This is explained very well. Although I do have a question: How would I use zone focusing at an aperture of f2 with someone who is standing 2 feet away. In some of the demonstrations I’ve seen, they are usually giving examples with apertures of f8 or f11. And I noticed that most lenses don’t seem to have a measurement breakdown that is specific enough for focusing 2 feet away at an f2 aperture (or maybe I am just confused, ha). Thanks again for this great video!
The range where objects are sharp at f/2 when the subject is close is so narrow (the higher the focal length the smaller) that zone focusing isn't practical. Zone focusing is best for lenses =8.
Sali Markus hier ist Benjamin. Bin über Dich gestossen, als ich für meine neue M6 Tipps gesucht habe. Komplett unerfahren in Rangefinder und deren Funktion bin ich auf der Suche nach Fokus etc. gewesen. Dann kam Dein Video zum Vorschein. Dachte mir den Akzent kenne ich doch irgendwoher, anschliesend habe ich unter “About” herausgefunden, dass Du in Zürich lebst, ich auch. Fand ich ganz witzig. Eventuell kann man sich ja mal treffen. Wie gesagt bin ganz neu was M angeht, und jetzt mit einer Traumkamera, die zuhause wartet ausgepackt zu werden. Das passiert morgen. Wollte eigentlich nur einmal Danke fürs Video sagen. LG Benji
Hoi Benji. Cooler Zufall. Man kann machen was man will, den Akzent kriegt man nicht los 😊 freut mich dich kennenzulernen und gratuliere zu deiner M6. Gerne können wir uns mal treffen. Schreib mir doch eine E-Mail. LG
I find really hard to nail focus specially on moving subject, I guess need to practice a lot , what an experience to use one of these cameras., I feel I’m learning the process again
Wow, that was a great video! I don't have a Leica at the moment, but in the near future I will get one. You broke this down well, I found it relatively easy to understand. Thanks, Rob.
@@TheMPhotography Yeah, Leica seems to make a lot of nice cameras, but I am fairly new to this, so I can't see spending $6000 on a camera. From what I've seen, the M8 makes decent photos and won't kill my bank account...
Great video!!! Love the way you explained zone focusing! I have a Leica IIIf wich is getting CLA and the rangefinder ghost image it's super dim but with zone focusing will not be much of a problem! thanks
Thanks Marcus, for your well explained rangefinder video. It’s nice to see your effort! One thing I would like to address regarding the focusing of rangefinders, is the challenge of shooting portrait orientation. Any tricks from your side, especially when you need to be quick (like shooting kids :)) all the best from Munich to Zurich!
You are right. Taking photos in portrait mode can be a beast. Especially with lenses which have the finger rest on the focus ring. It is not positioned well for vertical pictures. On the 75mm summicron it works well, since it's just a plain ring. When the subject is static I often choose to focus in landscape mode and then turn the camera. If the subject is in movement, like kids playing, your best chance is either a narrower zone focusing than I explained in my video. Maybe with a focus zone of around 1m or alternatively if you are comfortable focusing already you can concentrate on the eyebrows which will be vertical in portrait mode. Hope this helps a bit. Greetings from Zürich.
Thanks a lot. I am assuming you mean other than Leica. Unfortunately not since I only have experience with the Leica M system. I would not feel comfortable recommending a camera unless I experienced it first hand myself.
Thanks for watching and your comment. As far as I know yes. At least the Leica lenses I have seen so far (which are many). I am not sure about 3rd Party lenses. It is indeed very brilliant and simple to shoot like that.
I would say it is almost impossible to do certain compositions at f/0.95 especially at close distance when the focal plain is so narrow. Your only bet would be focus peaking on a digital Leica with either a display or an EVF.
Thank you! This was just the question (and answer) that I was looking for. But for less narrow DOF, like F2, will focus and recompose still work or will the subject be out of focus when I recompose? I read some articles talking about how the camera person has to step back a little bit…🤷🏻♂️ Be well.
This depends on the focus distance and the lens characteristics of each lens. The 75mm Summicron has about 2mm DOF at f/2 at minimum focus distance. Not a lot of wiggle room to recompose or a slight head movement. I suggest checking the leica website. They have a PDF for each of their lenses that shows the DOF at any aperture and distance to the subject. There you will see at what setting of the lens you can safely recompose. Hope this helps.
Very interesting. However my camera is not a Leica but a Fujifilm X100F instead, with a 23mm (35mm equivalent) fixed lens. I can operate the camera 100% Manual. I don't use the lcd monitor but only the incredible Fujifilm híbrid viewfinder (optical or evf at will) . Through the EVF I see all the parameters Aperture, Speed and ISO , as wel as Metering, Focus area, WB, and others. At the bottom of the screen the is a distance bar that goes from 0.1 metre to infinity. As I change the Aperture, part of the bar changes to blue. The blue shows what distances are in focus. With Aperture at 2 the blue shows what distances are in focus. With Aperture set at 16 the blue line is very wide. For instance from 2m to infinity. I can fine tune the focus using the focus ring. I believe that this is very accurate and way more readable than the Leica
Really one of the most simple explained how to focus range finder , even for a beginner can understand 👍 thank you for making this video . What lens do you recommend from like a lineup for Travel to pair with MP body ?
Thanks Ben. Glad to hear that you liked the video and it helped. I would say the best Allrounder is the 35mm Summicron. Versatile focal length and low weight compared to a Summilux. Alternatively the 28mm.
I have an option between these two ? Leica 50mm Summilux-M f/1.4 asph Black chrome or Noctilux M50 f1.2 asph black What do you think specially I’m used to shooting 35 m
Hello. I subscribed to your channel. I don't own a rangefinder camera yet, but I really enjoyed your explanation. Rangefinder cameras have always intrigued me and this is one of the best explanations on focusing I've seen. Could you show in a future video on how you meter with a rangefinder camera? That would be very informative for me. Thanks again for a very nicely done video.
Thank you this is Really good video explaining about zone photography. I would if you could make a video about auto Iso in manual mode for street photography
I'm in the middle of watching the video, now up to "zone focus". (Someone in the Leica Forum posted a thread with four of your videos, so I'm working my way through them - I can post a link to the forum discussion if you want.) Anyway, one thing people say regarding depth of field and focus is that something closer or further than where the camera is focused, will be "in focus". Not correct. Better to say "acceptably sharp". If you'd like another project, maybe you could make a video that explains "depth of field". Nobody seems to really understand it. And the depth of field also depends on how large the photo is made, and how close the viewer is to the photo as he is looking at it. I had to learn all this 50 years ago when I was shooting film, and it does get rather technical, but once someone does understand it, everything else makes sense. The depth of field lines on camera lenses show what people would consider reasonably sharp in an 8" x 10" photo, held at arm's length (if I remember this correctly). Make the print smaller, and more things would appear in focus. Make the print huge, and (if you're viewing it from the same distance) things that you once thought appeared sharp no longer do. Way too much detail to cover, and this is also the explanation of why a wide angle lens seems to have more depth of field than a normal lens, because things in the photo will appear smaller - and the opposite for a telephoto lens. I can look up my old information that explains all this, but I'm guessing you already know it. It probably requires an entire video to explain, and then to illustrate what is going on. The single biggest step is to not think things at different distances are "in focus", and instead to say they appear "acceptably sharp", and this would be a very different number comparing 4" x 6" prints in your hand, with color slides you plan on showing on a huge screen.
Thanks again Michael. Absolutely correct what you say with the depth of field and I am well aware. Leica has really nice charts of the depth of fiel for each lens. With time one knows the numbers by heart - if like me one shoots without having a display knowing the depth of field of the lens becomes crucial. Also a good idea for a future video. I truly appreciate and am grateful for your feedback. So nice that someone posted a link to some of my videos to the Leica forum and you found my videos. Greetings from Zürich.
Thanks for the video. I don’t understand one thing... how can you know your framing? You only have the focus rectangle in the middle? So if I want to focus on something not in the center, I should do what? Focus and recompose looks very hard to do... Maybe my questions are stupid, but I never used a rangefinder yet. 😅
No worries and definitely not a stupid question 😊 Yes, that is correct. You would need to focus first and then recompose the shot. It is not very hard to do and you get used to it quickly.
...is it hard to do...? Why? You should do the very same thing even the very best auto focus in the planet...! The camera is "dumb" and can't possibly guess where you want to focus at...so you choose a small focusing area, point it at your main subject, let your camera achieve focus, recompose and shoot! (easier and quicker done then said). The main philosophy regarding the use of rangefinder cameras is about ergonomy and the viewfinder it self. But, in the end, what matters most, is the pleasure you can get from your hobby (whatever style of camera you use)
Great video on zone focusing, and seems to make manual focusing much easier, I would like to venture back into a Leica M camera, I still have my M6, but since digital and automation metering and focusing, taking pictures were were quick. Now after 50 years of shooting, I'm looking to get back into the world of leica. My eyes aren't as good as they were back in the day, so focusing would be an issue. I currently have the Leica Vario-x and Q, both automatic leica camera which reveal that Leica image. I have been watching many videos on the M10 and would love to pick up one, as my life style will be slowing down to less work and more travel. With zone focusing, having an M10 maybe possible...
I am sure it can work. Especially with an M10 and it's fantastic screen or the electronic viewfinder which you can mount on the camera. Will help a lot with precise focusing. For everything else zone focusing is definitely a great help.
9:01 You are certainly very patient and interesting in your story. But you can also focus on an object without straight lines. For example, a circle or a triangle, etc. It is only important to combine the two images in the viewfinder. And always, you see, it is better to focus exactly on the object to which your attention is directly directed, in which case you get the perfect focus. Although, I agree, for beginner photographers it is better to learn gradually, as you told. Thanks for your review. Best wishes from St. Petersburg.
Thanks so much for the info! I have just bought a minolta rangefinder and I find that sometimes the vertical lines don't overlap no matter how I move the focus ring. What can I do in cases like this one?
Hi Markus. Thank you for your interesting video. I have a question about your choice of the Leica M. Did you never regret to have bought the Leica type 262 instead the one with the back-screen ? I am about to buy me a Leica M10 but I am hesitating between the M10-P and the M10-D. For many poeple it makes no sense to buy a camera without a back-screen today.
Hey Altair. I never regretted my decision to buy the M-D and today I would choose the M10-D over the M10-P any day. Especially if you are unsure if you could live without a screen think that with the M10-D you can use an EVF and connect the camera via Wifi to your phone. These things were not possible with the original M-D.
So this means for street photography, let say f11 at 1/500 you compensate with autoiso and then you will adjust the compensation by rotating the wheel on the thumb to under exposing or over exposing accordingly. Is that what do you mean? Thanks and congrats for the informative video 👍🏻
Thanks a lot for watching. I am not sure to which part of the video you are referring. I made separate videos for auto iso vs manual exposure and I made one on the EV (thumb wheel) function as well. I personally start with the aperture and ISO and set the shutter accordingly. I don't really use auto iso functionality in cameras, and I talk about that in this separate video.
