Overview of wiring (what goes where) on a Ford 2G Alternator also sometimes called a G2. These are found in 351W motors typically Broncos, F-Series, and Mustangs from 1986 - 1993.
I was fighting the plug on my old 92 f150. Thanks to your video I now know I'm not crazy and it's just integrated to the alternator lmao. Thank you for the video. Cheers
To get my alternator to work I had to wire the Green wire up as follows. First you need to connect the green wire to a 12v indicator bulb that is bridges by a 510 ohm resistor as a bypass. Then to a 20 amp fuse Then to a 12v source that is only live on key on. Otherwise you just have big pulley. hope this helps anyone.
@@austinwhite969 The delco is a a bit thicker. Still was able to mount it in the same place with some washers to get the spacing correct. Way easier to use.
@@OutdoorNMore I was looking for a replacement alternator for a 1994 F-350 with a 460 that I could install with no wiring modifications, but all the new & rebuilt units (even with the original Motorcraft castings) got rid of the stud & 10mm nut on the back that connects to the battery. They "replaced" it with an integrated connector (THAT DOESN'T UNPLUG) that you have to crimp/solder to the wiring in the truck. Yeah, you have to cut the factory ring terminals out of the truck's wiring harness, and DIRECTLY CONNECT those wires to your "new" alternator. The next time you have to replace the alternator, YOU HAVE TO CUT YOUR PERMANENT CONNECTIONS AND RE-DO THEM WITH THE NEW ALTERNATOR. There's no connector to unplug. I can't believe how stupid that is. Whoever approved that design change is a clown. Your video helped me get the wiring right the first time and I really appreciate that. I wasn't sure because the single orange/black battery power wire in the truck's harness is a thicker gauge than the 2 black wires coming out of my alternator. The instructions said both those smaller gauge wires from the alternator should go directly to the battery, so I had to solder up a Y-joint between one heavier gauge wire and 2 smaller gauge wires. We should not have to do stupid things like this, but everything's working properly now, so your video is an excellent resource for everyone.
Your alternator was not giving enough volts, mine is actually giving too many, after 15 minutes motor running I saw 17.4 volts and I stopped the motor and wondered that was the reason that after driving some 30 to 40 minutes, is I would reverse motor would stall, while waiting some 30 minutes for a friend to come and help me, I thought maybe I try staring it and the motor started. Possible after battery cooled down there was no problem. I will change that alternator today, but I wonder if there may be something else causing that problem.
I have a mustang with one of the orange and black wires going to yellow wire. The middle (black/yellow) wire is going to battery positive. Ny wire is getting hot. The middle one going to positive battery. Could I need to possibly put both orange wires together with yellow wire & fusible link? Thanks
If you have a battery or charge light in the gauge cluster or dash; and the bulb is not plugged in or broken; the alternator circuit can't charge. You have broken the circuit by removing the bulb, meaning the alternator is turned off as a fail safe. Think of the bulb as a fuse inline to the alternator.
@@taylorhelm7146 mine was still charging with out the cluster but im having to make a new harness and when i took out the factory one it stopped charging
B YENZER1 I double checked the part is called a 2G. There is a company who makes alternatives called G2 but this is a Ford 2G alternator. And Yamaha also has a G2 alternator as well.
