Don't miss this simple step, Ford alternator not charging. 

Thank you so much for your video sir. Im shane from philippines. 2days ago i buy a surplus cluster gauge panel. The owner said it is working. So i replace mine with that. After that my battery is nit charging just today i let the electrician check and says ny batt is good the problem is the alternator. So i go home park my truck outside the gate. When im going to park it inside my truck wont start. So i charge the batt for 5mins and start it and put my truck inside my garage. I almost order new battery on it . When im lying in my bed i search on youtube and watch your video. After watching i run in my truck and replace my surplus to my old one and check it. Now its charging. You save from wrong doing of mine.

Thank you!! You helped me solve my charging issue with my 97 f150, 4.6 liter. I bypassed the tiny bulb in the instrument cluster and now getting charge to the battery, however, now the check engine light is on and the instrument cluster doesn't light up. I will eventually replace the little bulb in the cluster and see what changes. Big help!!

You are AWESOME... BIG THANKS...HOSS.

Broooooo…..!!!! It worked for me same issue.. and I changed light bulb on the cluster the one that’s supposed to light up the (battery AMP) on dashboard cluster.. started charging right away Thank you sir..!! 🔥🔥💯💯😎

Very helpful video tips thank you,God bless From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧

Thank you for your video my battery light bulb was blown when I replaced it alternator started charging

And here's tonight's winning lotto numbers.... brahhhhhhhmmmmbambambambambam!

Can be fixed by putting a 560 ohm 1 watt resistor in line to alternator. Light works as a resistor to tell regulator to charge.

Good job man thanks

Bro... I had the exact same problem, and the fix worked. I just wired it to a keyed power source, and now I'm charging

Great tip!

You are legend sir

Your a freaking genius Thank sir

Sounds like a weak link in the design of the system. I'm dealing with the same thing now. I'll play with it and see if I can bypass that bulb issue. Thanks for bringing it to light (pun intended, no apologies).

You can put a resistor in parallel with the battery light. It will start charging even when bulb goes out.

well done.

As to the issue of the corrosion problem, I'm a stickler for ALWAYS applying a bit of DiElectric Grease inside any and every electrical connection, regardless of the location. As an application to the sparkplug boot (either end), it eases later removal and can resist water intrusion. For electrical connections, it can greatly reduce or even prevent corrosion due to temperature and humidity, as well as rain and snow (salt spray) exposure as well. Before reinstalling replacement bulbs, I make sure to thoroughly clean the socket and terminals to remove any contaminants/corrosion and apply a fair amount to the inside base and sides of the socket before inserting a new bulb. Be careful to avoid getting the grease anywhere except the base area of the bulb, because it will most likely cause either an immediate failure, or failing that, can prevent proper cooling of the bulb which will likely also reduce the "lifetime" of the bulb. One other common failure (and often THE MOST common), is a bad or missing ground. You can get "universal" braided-type ground straps from any automotive or "tractor/farm supply" store, and simply connect one from an unused threaded bolt hole and connect 1) Engine to Firewall, 2) Engine to Frame and 3) NEG (-) Bat terminal to either Engine (Preferred) or Frame. With today's modern computer controls, A/C systems, "Power Everything" and all our "toys" (cell phone, tablets, GPS, Radar Detectors, etc), it doesn't take much to overexert older wiring that may not have taken these factors into consideration, on the "drawing board". The upside to using the "braided" strap-type cable, is no insulation to worry about charring/burning (therefore smoking) and it's a fairly cheap/easy/painless install/addition that doesn't require a wiring diagram or deep electrical knowledge. The one thing I would recommend, I always use "star-type" lock washers on both sides of the terminal ends. I will look for a fairly easily accessible location, give the metal surface a good scrape with a tool like a gasket scraper (clean grease/mud maybe scratch some paint), and the "tar washer" will bite into the metal of the bolt and engine/firewall/frame to give a good "metal-to-metal" connection. Again, as with any other "connection", I use a dab of "DiElectric Grease" on the metal surfaces before I make the cable installation (after cleaning/scraping) to deter possible corrosion. Hopefully I've give some useful info. Blessing to All🙏🙏🙏

Man you are a huge help, got me back on the road when stranded when I was out of town. Quick question, is there something I can replace instead of a light bulb, that doesn't drain the battery when the vehicle is off, cause I'm tired of disconnecting the battery every time I stop driving the vehicle

Start it up, that thing would get me tickets

My problem was the damn 4 pin connector under the battery tray area, the red/green and yellow alternator wires go through this connector and it rots/ corrodes there big time.

U are rite. That was problem. Thank u sir he’s of trouble shooting. U the man

I have a Ford F150 2003 changed alternator changed battery changed the clips to the alternator and battery still isn't charging what could it be? The battery lights on in the dash so idk where to look or what could it be. Any advice thanks

Hey Bulldog, I have a 1990 Ford E-150 that has the 5.0 in it. I have the same problem with van as you are discussing. I need to find the" bad bulb". What wire are you hooking your test light up to? I had to manually wire my alternator as someone had ripped the pigtail off. So, if you could tell me which wire do I connect the test light to I would appreciate it thank you.

Could you help me with an 83 mustang alternator wire trace? It’s white with a black stripe coming from the alt. And had a push on rubber boot shaped connector. It doesn’t go to the electric choke like I’ve read. I’m thinking starter solenoid? I’m having a hell of a time getting any help on this.

This was the problem in my 78 Lincoln. There is no battery light because my gauge housing crumbled beyond repair.

brother i have ford fiesta 1.4 tdci my problem is that whenever i start the car battery warning light comes on the dash but if i fully press the throttle all the way to 5k rpm it starts charging and light goes offf , plz help me to solve this issue

Great video. I have a 2012 ford edge. Replaced alternator three times with new batteries. Each time after like 15 miles of driving or less the alternator stops charging battery and the light in dash comes on. Help please

Any advice on the same issue with an 82 Buick Riviera?...no light on in dash

Hes jumping the green n red wire to the alt/gen. Black n white

I’m having this same issue of the alternator not charging on my 87 mustang. I’ve even upgraded to a 3g alternator. So far I’ve returned to alternators due to them not charging. Had the guys at Orielly’s check the second one today and was told that it’s the regulator that’s bad. What are the odds of getting 2 bad alternators back to back? I’m gonna have to rewatch this video and try and pick up as much info as I can. The battery light doesn’t come on either on my dash. Great helpful video. I was about to start tracing the wiring.

So to test it, power the green wire directly from the battery? If that works should I just run a wire from the green to the power wire on the alternator?

Do Ford F250's made in 2013 have this dummy light? My truck keeps turning up SERVICE ADVANCE TRAC with a wrench that fades until the lights go all the way out. I had no warnings either, accept one night waking up in the back seat to the vehicle idling improperly and losing power inside and outside.

Can you please help me ? I have 2013 ford fusion that showed check battery charging sytem , I have a good battery not even a year old , I replaced the alternator because it was bad but , it now starts but will die quickly / when drving itll shut off my check battery charging sytem light never turned off after replacing the alternator and i checked the fuse for the alternator all good. Idk what to do . Hopefully you can lead me to the right direction. Thank you in advance.

Why didn’t you pull the cluster and swap out the light? Out of curiosity

I have this problem now because I changed my entire dash cluster and no longer have any bulb at all there. What’s the easiest fix for me to get the alternator charging again?

Bulldog my truck f150 2004. V8. 4.6. Have problem alternator not charge put new and same problem not charge help

I've put 4 alternators on my truck & today a brand new alternate so its got to be something else we were told that the alternater has fuse so the fuse was checked & then the battery charged but within 10 miles I'm on side of road again I don't no what else to do help me

I had the same issue but now something else is wrong i still have my truck wired like how your talking in The video but now i turn my key over and the battery light is gone but the bulb still lights up and the starter just clicks like a dead battery but its not the problem its not getting pieer when i put my reader on it nothing is getting power idk whats going on

Hey man, wondering if you could help me out. I put a new alternator in and new pig tail. Battery light was on dash and still wasn’t charging battery. I took my wire tester and noticed one of the wires from the pigtail to the solenoid wasn’t getting power. So I changed that wire out and started it up, now no light on dash. But it is still not charging

I have the same problem 2008 Ford escape changed the alternator, wiring harness , ignition switch, new battery. The battery light still comes on while running and drains the battery. Any tips on where to look

My issue is, when I turn the key to on, the battery light appears. Then when I start the car, car dies, but the battery light never came on. Idk what to do at this point. 05 Ford Five Hundred

Early BMWs did this as well, the exciter circuit runs through the battery indicator light on the instrument cluster. Did the same thing - bought a new battery, bought a reman'd alternator ... car runs on battery only and dies when the battery is drained. 'EV' of the wrong sort.

Help me out Bulldog I’m counting on you

My 1987 Nissan 300zx’s new alternator is not charging and the battery light is not on. I guess I need to do some electrical tests

Would this be the same for a 92 Lincoln town car

Perhaps if you have a voltage regulator it’s faulty or wire is broken

Is this the same for a 2018 ford flex alternator

What wire is it and where is it located the you probed inti

Ok so i have a 04 expy new battery and alt but the bat light is still on and i can be driving ans my volts go down all i have go do is give it gas and it goes up but its not fully charging and i still need to get it jumped

How many volts should u have to know its charging?

We need the wire from alternator to battery on 05 escape. Can you show it and possibly the part number

So the green wire for the dummy light has to be hooked up for battery to charge?

Have a 87 mustang gt hatchback 5.0 suddenly stopped charging and turn signals stay on no flash

I got a 2004 ford focus with new battery and alternator battery light keeps going on and off and dying any tips

I have no audio on my old ASS pc BUT on my Focus mk1 i changed the alternator 4 times in one week chasing a gremlin! Turned out I had the ecu main earth in the wrong place AND another of the fusebox loom earths in wrong place ! Dont discount anything!

I see the workaround solution, but what is the fix that will make the battery light come on and the charging gauge work like factory ?

How do you get power to that wire?

Ummm...did I miss a few steps? What bulb? Ground it to where? I'm so confused...

Can you please help me Went out to the car one day and the radio was on and wouldn’t come off so we started unhooking the battery few days later car wouldn’t start and it’s not the battery because we can charge it and drive it maybe 10 miles before it does we at first thought it was the alternator but now I’m thinking it’s the wires I just had the ignition replaced about a year ago because the key wouldn’t come out of the ignition and what ever the first dealership did I think did this

What f-ing wire did you hook it to?

So, are you saying that if the bulb is burnt out, your charging system won't work?

my damn f250 diesel doing the same cant find the damn wire

What if it won't stop charging it stays at 14.6 at idle give it gas and voltage goes up with rpm and doesn't stop

Well, thank you but I had to listen to all that bulls to get to the point

So this means the battery light on my dash if it is out I have to replace the bulb for it to start charging my battery?

Cool but where is that green wire having same trouble with my Fox body mustang sir

Where are you connecting the light too

Fml I have all the issues everyone else does except my battery light comes on…..

So what's the fix

I bought new alternator battery and I have a check charging system

I changed 3 alternators all charging about 13,1v and bonusing up and down i can start everyday without proplem , grand marquis 2001☹️

Just put a resitor in place that will fix your problems it's like a 500 ohm

Might be a $5 mega fuse

EXTREMELY confused with your video, loud noises over your voice, “ “plug the wire in here”. What wire in where for what reason ?? I wish I was a swammy mind reader, but dude I am more confused now than before.. KISS brother, take This down and do it right so us know nothing people can understand you.

I think you missed a section of your beard sir. Please go cut that. It’s distracting to the video.

DUDE,, GET TO THE FUCKING POINT.

why not point camera where your looking?? very yaknow

Bulldog,, Really😅😅😅