To any diyer thinking about taking your engine apart for the first time. Follow this video and nothing else. I did and the assembly video and it went smooth. This video makes something very complex actually very simple. Thanks for the awesome video
To those who think the marks should all be at 12 O'clock- you are forgetting or ignoring the simple purpose of this procedure- it is for removing the chains without damaging the valves with no extra special tools or disassembly! It is brilliant! When you put the chains on, then the marks will line up in a more familiar configuration. You are still talking about lining up six axis across a 45 degree bisectional plane because it is a 'V' configuration engine with 2 camshafts and a crankshaft per head with a dozen valves on each head. No such angle exists to line up five shafts and all 24 cam lobes with all the valves closed during disassembly. If you cannot grasp the simplicity of what I am saying, do not work on any more engines.
I'm close to 300k, in a 07, 3.0 duratec engine. I was told to replace a timing chain at 300k to prevent a break in the chain. My engine has been babyed since I bought it at 138k. Rarely goes over 2500 rpm.
The intial alingment of the timing marks move from the set position each revolution of the chain by about 2 links. I did not know that and disassembled the chains and tensioners after tuning the engine over and rechecking the timeing. The marks were not longer aligned. Why is that?
How do you suppose the cams would be perfectly clocked so that you can mark them where you want and have the crankshaft sit there perfectly timed while bisecting six angles? A single angle doesn't exist across all six planes simultaneously on a "V" engine configuartion. You are forgetting or ignoring the purpose of the procedure is not to line up the timing, it is the removal of the chains with all the valves closed. You are lining up a neutral position on five shafts with a total of six axis, with dual overhead cams with variable valve timing- so all 24 cam lobes and the crankshaft line up with all the valves closed at the same time, and you think you can just pick a spot to mark on the cam and crank pulleys that will happen to be right? Good luck. If you stop and think you will realize the set up is so brilliant and well thought out that you do not have to go out and buy an additional special tool or use vise grips on the camshafts to hold them in place to protect the valves. Be an engineer if you want. No one is stopping you. If you can do better, do it. Otherwise, follow the directions. If you aren't following the simple logic I have written here, you have no place in this field of repair. And, take your own advices, go meet and speak with an engineer. All the ones I have met wrenched on cars for three years or more while studying, before starting to study the engineering of the thing, and they are all wicked smart. Ask them in person why you pull some bolts that cannot be backed out all the way without hitting something else. You might be surprised at the very simple answer.
@@jessesyfert9359 Why did dodge engineers decide to solder the fuel pump relays into the bottom of the 1,000$ TIPM? Better yet, if they’re doing that why not use solid state ones instead of contact style relays so that they outlast the vehicle? Sometimes the answer is simply to make more money off consumers. I’m actually an engineer btw.
Thanks for the video. I am Kurdish. Been living in America for 8 years now. I love your videos. I am also learning about engines and cars. Recently I got a 2004 Mazda tribute that has Ford’s duratech 3.0 v6 engine. I have recently changed serpentine belt, water pump and tensioner, Thermostat and I repaired couple exhaust leaks. I am having issues with screeching noise that is very loud when I go over 2000 rpm and car does not go over 30 miles. I am having 2 codes p0135, p2195, p2196 I am still not sure if I fixed the exhaust leaks correctly. Would appreciate any comments or recommendations.
hello i need help I opened the v6 engine and I didn't mark anything, I took out the chain and now I don't know the position of the crankshaft and camshaft, can you give me some advice on how to solve it, thank you. This is a 2011 Porsche Panamera 3.6 v6
I'm doing the gaskets on the timing case cover I wanted to change the tensioner and the followers can I do this without losing the clock positions nothing is under load to cause it to lose time is there?
And those “clock” positions for the camshafts are in relation to the top of the cylinder head, where as the “clock” positions for the crank is in relation to the centerline of the block?
In a relation perpendicular to the surface (flat) position of the block and each of the heads. The perpendicular line would mark the 12 o'clock for each.
Except my wifes 2011 Ford Escape V6 didnt have the 3 bolt holes on the crankshaft pulley, and she bought it new, so now ask me the crazy scientist stuff I had to do to get that off...
because you will have valve to piston contact when you remove the chains the spring pressure will cause the cams to move and jam a valve into a piston the procedure I demo here is directly from Fords service manual the Factory does not lay out these procedures for no reason this kind of stuff is important with OHC engines
So the real question is.. can the cover be removed when engine is in the car? On my 06 3.0 fusion.. room is EXTREMELY tight.. getting ready to do a cover reseal and valve gaskets.. I am not looking forward to this. Any tips out there people? Has anyone done one out there with Engine in car?
@@simonmoffat4629 I'm about to do a set of head gaskets on an '07 Fusion. Any suggestions or advice to avoid any "Oh no..." moments? ~Rust Belt Warrior
