Hey man, I really appreciate your honesty and transparency about the difficulty of this project.. I took mine to the mechanic and when i picked it up they looked like they didnt want to look at it anymore either.. lol
The orings inside of those nuts for the coolant feed and return on the turbos NEED replaced every time this job is done, use some marine grease to re install soo it doesn’t tear them when you reinstall
Great job on removing the studs (wow), but when you have those turbos off you need to replace all of the fittings, block and heads and turbo, even replace the lines as well, Dorman sells replacements for like $60.
The longer studs allow them to stretch when the manifold expands. That's why the old bolts snap. GM and Ram have the same issue. Diesels have used the longer studs for years.
I just put these on my truck. Youre wise to replace all oil and water lines with the fittings that have the clips when doing this job because you will get leaks and constantly fight it. Also those manifolds have slightly bigger ports so youd be smart to do the driver side also. I replaced all of those items and put new turbos on too and while my ford mechanic buddy had the engine out i went ahead and did the timing chains and high volumn oil pump along with new calve covers. Total of $5400.
Yes but im not playing around with it. My ford tech said it was faster and easier to just pull the engine and do everytbing on his engine table rather than fight everything through the fender wells and laying over the front end. Saved me time and labor cost. He had the engine out in a lil over an hour. So while it was out for the manifolds turbos and oil/water lines i said might as well do the chains oil pump water pump belts etc anything and everything he took off might as well replace with new. So i should be good for another 150k + 👍 still cheaper than a new truck and a high car payment.
I hope you do get many more years from it. I love my F150! Nowadays they’re taking the cab off in 45 minutes and get engine access. Lots of steps to remember though to put it all back together. Haha!
Ford has a new part number for the 3.5 manifolds, they have a similar design to the BD diesel ones. I had both of mine done, pass. side was before the new part number unfortunately. I was planning on doing them myself but got too busy with other things, this one is 100% worth having the shop do.
After talking with a service technician AND a Parts counter rep (in idaho), I learned the updated manifolds actually only go from the 8 stud setup to a 9 stud setup, and he specifically mentioned that the material used for the studs is the same as the non-updated heads. He oddly specifically mentioned that "its not like they're stainless steel or anything, the extra stud does help but the material is still a weaker material by comparison" which I chuckled at cause BD Diesel advertises stainless steel studs and bolts for their manifold design, and they also utilize 11 studs per manifold rather than the 8 for stock and 9 for updated. You can also get the BD kit which includes studs, bolts, gaskets and manifolds for both sides for about the cost of just the manifold from Ford. So, purely parts cost for backyard warriors like I imagine the other guys and gals watching this video are, i'm definitely leaning towards the BD option right now.
@Mrnarutofan28 No doubt! I’d buy that BD kit again in a heartbeat. They bought to sell new coolant lines to go with it; it would score them more profit and “force” us to make the repairs while in there. I can certainly vouch for 11 studs because I installed every last one of them - haha!
@@williamtunnell unfortunately, as much as a ford guy as I am, their cost-cutting/saving measures seem to take it too far. It happened 6-7 years ago with my '08 3V 5.4 with me doing a cam phaser swap and lockout kit 2 months after I bought it. She was a great truck till I ran her dry on the freeway 2 months ago (rookie mistake, still horribly embarrassed about it), and at the price I got this '14 platinum 3.5l 2 weeks ago, I knew it would be something. Regardless, shortcomings aside, i'm extremely impressed with this truck, always wanted an ecoboost, and I'm going to do my best to ensure she runs as long as my old truck did, perhaps even more. Super appreciated the video by the way. It was only over the last few days I decided that noise on acceleration wasn't actually the sleek cold air kit the truck came with. It really helped me narrow down what to look for and what to shop for!
@@Mrnarutofan28from everything I've read, it's the casting material vs hole count that's causing the issue... it's warps and breaks that back bolt which supports the turbos, thus why most newer revamps models add that extra stud, to support the turbo. Cr performance makes a mean one capable of being pushed from stock to 650hp... it's bored better giving better flow with a heavier casting different material... only added the 1 bolt
Hi! I’m wondering if you could please post a parts and tool list that you’d recommend for the project. Including the oil and coolant line pieces. Thanks!
That same exact coolant leak happened to me as well except I was working with a Transit van, I left the turbo In and was able to change the line and fitting but it was a bear. I’m a tech and that job ranks high up there on the difficulty level.
Thank you Much for the wonder detailed video, I would love to buy an F150 but it scares me when i read about all the problems and desgine flaws hey have. Ford such a great prouct that's there top seller for more then 30 plus years but they haven't fiured out a way to make a quality product
I know what you mean - but if you watch enough videos on vehicles, they ALL have scary problems. My Ford has required some maintenance over the years, but I’m currently rolling more than 205K miles on her and she’s holding strong. Thanks for writing and watching!
I just had the Dealer replace BOTh of my manifolds to the tune of $5200.. ouch! It hurt but after watching this video I’m glad I did!🤣 I still say this should be covered under a recall due to the poor design.
I'm doing this same job on my 2016 Ford Transit 250 and man it is such a different job. I'm doing the left side. I removed the turbo today and tomorrow I'm working on the manifold. I'm soaked it with some pb blaster a few times so hopefully that helps tomorrow
@@williamtunnell oh yeah it definitely is. That job is like 2600 down here plus I had a warranty but they denied the claim 🤦🏾♂️ but I made some good progress, and I have my dad there for back up so that definitely helps. I'm about to go get started on day 2. In a minute. Wish my luck
So I was able to get them off earlier. 2 is mine were broken but it still had some of the stud left. So we took a 1/4 socket with like 8 points on it and tapped it on the stud when small hammer until it went down on the stud They both came right out. Yeah we sacrificed 2 sockets but who cares lol
Make sure to order the turbo install kit too, this kit only includes the gaskets and hardware for the manifold itself, none of the turbo gaskets, coolant fittings, studs, or nuts.
Hey there, great video! Thanks for making it. I've got the dreaded coolant leak on my '16 Expy. Comin right out of the driver side turbo. So thinking of doing the manifolds at the same time. Curious about the new studs. Seems like the extra 3 stud holes are already threaded up in the block? Ford just didn't use those thread holes? Or am I missing something?
Would it be worth it to remove the control arms and suspension? Would that give you more room and make it easier? Would it also be worth it to simply get new bolts all the way around to avoid breakage?
Removing the suspension would definitely give you more room but no, probably not worth the extra effort. As for new bolts, the kit comes with new bolts and the problem is getting out the broken bolts/studs so yes, everything has to come off to replace the stud. Good question but unless you’re very familiar with removing and replacing suspension components, I wouldn’t attempt it. The space gained wouldn’t be worth it in my opinion.
I was goingvto ask you if you replaced the coolant lines and fittings. These things leak most of the time when you disturb them. I'm getting ready to do the manifolds, oil lines, filters coolant lines all at once
I did not and definitely should have while I was in there. I will when I replace the driver’s side but it’s been fine. Thanks for the comment! You have a wise plan! LOL
Once the clip is off they do pop out straight. You may need to hit yours with a little lube. I did break the seal on one of mine - hence the trip to the mechanic shop after all! Most guys recommend changing those coolant lines or at least the fittings while doing this job. After doing what I did, I’d recommend it as well.
Hi, I have a 2013 F150 3.5 liter engine One question Did your truck was making some problems Like losing power or trying to shutdown because of that leaks on that turbo? Did you figure it out what cause it to start leaking? and it was just leaking coolant or was leaking oil as well? Mine it started leaking yesterday and it’s overheating on bank 1 passenger side and having oil pressure problem and it seems like it’s starving for oil Not sure why because it was fine and working good days ago
Mario, on this particular video, the exhaust manifold was leaking and pushing air out around the block. It made a rattling, almost chirping noise due to the air coming around the thin metal gasket. When I replaced it with the upgraded design of manifolds, I did end up with a coolant leak, no oil leaks. It leaked coolant because I had to move around these cooling lines that feed coolant to the turbos. There’s a rubber O-ring in them and I guess I may have damaged one. It is advisable to change all these while the turbo is out. I would do that if I had to do this job again. I did not notice any real loss of power, just the chirping sound that was noticeable on acceleration and cold start-up. I hope this helps!
Maybe Marcus, but they don’t break when you’re trying to remove them - at least mine didn’t. They break when they get hot and over time the weight on the back most stud causes it to snap. Once it breaks, you get an exhaust leak that “chirps” when accelerating. Very annoying and loss of power.
@@williamtunnell Gotcha, I missed that. Also, love the fact you prayed over the repair! I need to pray to find a reasonable repair shop. Timing cover and rear main seal are leaking on my 2016 F150 EB. I'm in North Georgia but repair facilities want over $5K for these repairs and that seems overpriced.
The coolant running out onto the ground. 😁. In all seriousness, it was obvious. It leaked pretty good. Finding the source was a little more difficult but I did find it.
Thanks - my only problem was at the end when I realized that I’d sprung a coolant leak from somewhere else. I just couldn’t wrench on it any longer and took that in - I did feel good that my local shop said that everything I had done looked good!
@@williamtunnell how easy would it have been to change out that coolant line fitting on the engine side when the turbo was out? I think the BD kit comes with new fittings for both the turbo and engine.
So Brandon, I can’t say for sure…the fitting goes in behind the AC compressor, but I don’t believe my local shop has to move it, so likely very easy. I certainly would have done it too while I had it all apart if I knew it was going to leak. Definitely not a bad idea to change it while you’re in there.
I’d have loved to use one but the stud is harder than the aluminum block and a drill bit (on another project not recorded) kept slipping off and getting on the aluminum.
Yes sir, you are correct! I had to go back to work the next day and was tired of fooling with it. Once I went back to work, I wouldn’t have much time to come back until the next weekend - so I took the easy way out for sure. Thanks for watching and commenting!
