From an old fart...I always use spring tension clamps on coolant lines. Rubber expands and contracts greatly in that hot environment....eventually the rubber looses it's rebound under a stationary clamp and becomes compressed and loose. The spring type clamp is always squeezing inward, regardless of how much the rubber shrinks.
Agreed. Was surprised to see him replace a crimp with a crimp. Was expecting to see a constant tension spring type clamp as you mentioned. He hasn’t seen his leak yet but it’s the same methodology as the ford part so no brainer it will expand out all the same. Maybe the after market clamps are slightly better quality but not enough to matter.
I always use screw clamps if reusing the old crushed rubber hose. Unless there's enough hose to cut off the portion that 'took a set', the spring clamps don't usually put enough pressure on the rubber hose because it only has a defined amount of tension and squeeze travel. Once you put enough tension on a screw clamp, it will probably bond the hose to the nipple after a year or so and you'll have to use a hose pick to get them separated. Plus it's probably easier to tighten a screw clamp in a difficult area when on a trip with a screwdriver than trying to get pliers on it on the side of the road if it ever was was to leak.
Good strong spring clamps beat screw or worm drive clamps as they apply constant tension which will take up the slack of the compressed hose. They are self adjusting.
I’m with you. Although a lot of People criticize worm clamps, evidently they either over tighten them or don’t tighten them enough because I’ve been repairing cars since I was a young teen working with my dad in the 1970s. I’ve never had problems with worm clamps. If I have the access and need to replace a clamp, I usually use a worm clamp.
Watching your videos has made me appreciate the simplicity of my 95 5.0 F150. Lot’s of simple vacuum systems, not nearly as many electrical components, just a basic motor and all around easier to work on.
In Chicago the plastic t-fitting brakes and the heater hose nipple where that hose goes into usually snap off too, I never saw one lose like the 3 you have.
I was going to say, aftermarket companies should offer an aluminum replacement, so you can avoid shelling out big bucks for the whole shebang. I’ve used Dorman t-fittings many times on grand caravan heater hose t-fittings instead of ordering the entire spaghetti mess sold from the dealer, and it saves the customer lots of $$ in the end
I'm not familiar ŵith the plyers/cutters you used to tighten the clamp. However, looks like the c/v clamp tightening tool might do a better job. The tool for crimping the C/V boot straps that is. M
EXACTLY do NOT WASTE Your Money on a New P.O.S FORD TRUCK just go buy an old one and fix it up you'll be alot happier & won't have to pull the cab to check the oil
I have 160k on my 2017 King Ranch. I had to replace one coolant line in that time. One going to the turbo started leaking. What is causing so many to fail in your area? I watch both coolant system levels and mine do not fluctuate, so it isn't leaking!
Just had to fix my nephews 2014 f150 5.0 coolant leaks. The plastic tee fitting and the hoses with an o-ring/ plastic bushing and metal wire clip setup are pretty shitty. Bad thing is, the hose is 100$ and the tee fitting is 100$. Ford dropped the ball on those crappy connections. Was an easy fix though
Replacing the whole part when it juat needed clamps is a big problem when there is no other problem and it's not going to cost more in labor or something than it would have been to replace it that's not right
When I worked at ford for 3 months in a heavy truck shop I was astounded at the amount of inferior plastic components on a 6.7 powerstroke. Even removing coolant hoses to perform warranty repairs would sometimes lead to leaks after the fact. GM’s have some plastic pieces but Ford is the top when it comes to overpriced poor quality parts.
It seems like you're putting the same clamp on that you're taking off what about Worm Drive clamps they're made by Gates and they make a tool for that particular crip on clamp at Lowe's it's in the plumbing department
@Olds_Pwr I'll just say this when I was younger, my cousin launched his hard body off a hill, and the thing was fine he drove it, maybe another 10-15k miles untill it needed a clutch with no problems.
@@Ruckusism That does not change the fact that Toyota Motor Company agreed to pay approximately $3.4 billion to compensate owners of certain truck models with frames that are prone to rust corrosion and perforation in order to settle a proposed class action lawsuit in California federal court.
@@Ruckusism It is now clear that I am chatting with a person with a low IQ. Yes you are right, no Ford will make it to 100,000 miles and a rusted out frame is a much better and safer option to be driving around in. Who needs structural support.
@@mattsbrute i don't have to pull the cab off my truck to work on it. I have an 11.5 rear end. Your garbage Dana 80 only has a 10.5 rear end. It's also not 25 years old. Every part of your truck is made in China and the parts are less available than mine. Mine also has an industrial engine. Yours is not even commercial grade. CP4 injection pumps are also junk. What would I know. Just been wrenching on vehicles that serve the northern Canadian oil patch. I know what last and it isn't power jokes.
@@mattsbrute hahahahah still a garbage 10.5. My duallies are 11.5. Many ford rear ends rebuilt simply because they were worked too hard in the patch. Only 11.5s I've ever played with is because the vent breather was neglected.
Lmao get the screw tighten style clamps dont buy another set of thoe clamps if they went the first time...cause most of the parts on that ford were made in china and failed...you have guys with 95 and under ford trucks with stock clamps still holding😂😂😂😂
