Just replaced the upper oil pan in 2016 with these videos. Great job. A tip to those who don’t want to do this again, though. Find a pan out of a 2011, they have the pressed gasket that isn’t prone to leaking.
Great video, I was ready to do mine myself and realized it was under warranty for another 500 miles and took it in to the dealer lol. I didn't get a new pan like you did unfortunately, but the tech seemed to have done a decent job which is kind of rare these days. They also warrantied my draglink, steering damper, fog lights, and the rubber tailgate bump stops which I did a video on fixing the flawed factory design. I give you props for doing this all in your garage, it's not easy and my neck usually hurts the day after lol.
I’ve found that if you are replacing the pan, and can get one, using the old 2011 upper oil pan + gasket is the way to go. It fits just like the newer ones, but with a groove for a gasket before they cheaped out and went into the silicone only seals for this. That all being said, that was a pretty damn good and satisfying job you did there on that silicone application! I’ve seen some of these jerkoff mechanics really fuck this up haha.
exactly, I don’t know why they use that stupid silicone. I rather have a paper or rubber gasket. I’ve always used if I can a paper gasket and some RTV.
Mine's in the shop having this done right now. There are also dealing with a turbo oil supply line leak. Fortunately I paid for the extended warranty when I bought the used truck. I knew full and well when I purchased the truck that diesels were much more expensive than gas rigs when it came to repairs and I'm not well versed in diesel mechanics, so I thought it was a good idea and apparently it is going to pay off. Thanks for the video, I was going to tackle this myself and I can see that it is a pretty extensive repair job that will probably take at least a day, if not more for someone unskilled like myself.
Yeah you know how to fix the problem is to start with buying the ford products that is your first clue to your self help with the whole situation of it
This is a great step by step instruction video! Great job! one of the best Ford Power Stroke how to videos on RU-vid. You rank right up there with the Ford Makado man. Thank you!
I have found that if you remove engine mount nuts on pass side then jack up motor about 1/2 and put some blocks that are about 1/2 it will give you some room on that pass side oil pan rail. Enough to get a milwaukee 1/4 cordless ratchet in there and it doesnt take long to do. I have found it easier to jack directly on the engine mount studs though.
Lots of good detail, and explanations. Great video. As expensive as the wipes are, the pan should never have leaked in the first place. Maybe they don’t use them when they are manufactured?
Oh holy sh*t. Was going to look at a used 2012 F250 diesel for sale. I can't imagine doing this on the floor of my garage. I'm still smarting from an 04 mustang convertible, internet purchase I made years ago. Completely destroyed my winning streak of car flips. Just do one every couple of years. Ride for awhile and sell for more. Then, another disaster with an 04 Buick Lesabre. Finally... it sold and made some money in order to buy a truck. My advice. Don't buy a Buick. At the very least, make sure the headliner is not dropping. Pulling that headliner took me almost 4 hours. Another4 hours to clean it. And then, took me and my upholstery guy, 4 hours to put the b*tch back in. Thank you for posting this detailed video. Awesome job. Video was great. I would like to try it, even. I'm old and like to do some hard stuff, just to be able to say I did it. :).
@@Jacob-oi9nr I wondered if that would work. Do you know for fact that the pan will come out that way? Thanks in advance! That sounds a lot easier if it will! Especially as several are saying on here, to go with the 2011 pan that has a grove for an oil pan gasket.
What a gigantic pain in the ass! This is my second 6.7. Had the oil leak fixed three times in my 11’ and it was still leaking when I sold it. My 17’ is leaking oil at 60,000 miles and they won’t fix it because it’s lifted. Awesome video man, I may try to tackle this on my own down the road.
In my experience while fixing these oil leaks, we were first doing the oil pan but kept having repeat repairs. Turns out it mostly likely isn’t the oil pan but the rear cover or front cover gasket leaking. Started resealing the entire engine. Front cover, rear cover and upper and lower oil pans. Didn’t have any come backs after doing this.
@@michaelabbey6073 found out that it’s the CCV causing these leaks. If not replaced at or before 50,000 miles they clog and create back pressure in the oil pan blowing the seals. Trucks with high idle hours are more susceptible
Have a 2017 leaking at 30k. No crankcase pressure issue. Definitely front timing cover seeping down along upper oil pan seam then down at passenger side trans cooler line bracket and harness stud. Definitely agree with sealing timing cover and oil pans.
Thanks for the video. 2018 here with 47k and has only been at the dealership for service. I went to look at something else and noticed my upper pan has a small leak on the passenger side and it looks like it has been leaking for sometime now. Will need to have a talk with my service rep and have it taken care of under warranty.
First check the separator filter. If it's clogged then it will put back pressure on the oil system and cause pan leaks. Easy way to tell is to remove oil cap while engine is running. If the cap blows off or you can feel air coming out of oil fill inlet then you have a clogged filter.
Great video, the Ford garage told me they have to pull my motor out to fix my upper pan gasket leak. I see from your video that's not necessarily true.
I do oil pans all the time as a power stroke tech, on the 17 & up trucks I actually loosen the passenger side motor mount and jack it up and place steel plates under it so you can get the tricky upper pan bolts. Also I never take the oil cooler all the way off, pull it through with the hose attached and hang it over the front diff
@@Cruising200 Yessir, every time. If the rear main or back of the oil pan leaks it can seep oil into the belhousing and it’s easier to get the pan off with the transmission and flywheel out of the way
Debating undertaking this on my 2014 F350. The dealer originally said I had a vac pump leak. That was repaired by them and the oil continued to leak. Then they diagnosed as a rear main leak. They never cleaned any of the oil from the bottom or used any dye. After I cleaned everything and inspected it looks as though my upper and lower oil pans are both leaking. I guess once I get into this I will be able to see if the rear main is leaking also LOL
Yea this is a very common leak. When I removed the old pan the cause was obvious. The silicone was very thin/ not properly bonded in the front corners. I considered doing the rear main as preventative maintenance but it was bone dry so I decided not to mess with it.
You did a great job. I would like to know the year and mileage on your truck. Your video is a great tutorial for my project on 2017 F250 6.7L with a blown 4th gear.
Those upper pan center bolts suck to remove I cut a 10 mm wrench in half and still had a hard time brake clean works same as wipes it's all in the preparation
Those prep wipes are magic. I cleaned off the upper oil pan with brake clean and a rag and though it was clean.. but then I used the prep wipe.. you wouldn’t believe how the wipe turned black 🤯 they really are important
I also think I have an upper oil pan issue because you can see oil dropping from the sides of the transmission ... what will happen if I don't fix it.... would it just keep leaking or something else could go wrong ... let me know
Damn,....labor intensive!! How many hour fix is this? What happened where these things are all leaking? Did you take notice as to factory caulking missing on your pan?
I believe Ford warranty labor time is somewhere between 10-12 hours. This was my first time so I wasn't in a rush. The majority of other trucks I've seen with this leak are due to an insufficient amount of silicone being applied at the joints where the upper pan, block and front timing cover meet. My leak has been progressively getting worse and was from the drivers side front corner.
I actually have to replace both lower and upper pan gaskets, plus the timing cover gasket, upper pan-8.8hrs, lower pan 1.1hrs, timing cover-12.7. this is based of MOTOR manual labor guide
My F550 has been in and out ford dealership since May 2021. Usually for 2-3 months at a time. Every time they fix the upper oil pan leak, it leaks. Bad. I just got it back today and already noticed a couple drips. Hoping its just residual from the replacement. I'll check again on Monday
I hear these oil pan leaks are from plugged CCV's. Have you thought about replacing your CCV with a filter, with the CCV without the filter that Ford changed over to ~ 2019?
@@jnuechte silicone when liquid and crushed between 2 surfaces literally is capable of 1000,s of PSI, your crank seals blow out or will be chewed up by the seal surface and fail at less than 15 PSI, they will not take pressure. The plastic oil filler cap wouldn’t take crankcase pressure generated from a plugged CCV either. I’ve frozen a breather on an engine before and the crankshaft seals pushed out. The whole idea that a CCV restriction causes this is ridiculous. Liquid sealant needs to be on a clean surface, in an adequate quantity, and has to be free of contaminants to vulcanize to the surfaces. The most likely reason it the factory silicone isn’t holding up and is leaking is because they chinced out and didn’t put enough on or it was too “dry” before they mated the surfaces.
Good job! Do you think the leak from factory sealant might be caused by the factory over tightening of the pan bolts? (Where in the vid you said “someone was having a bad day” when they tightened the bolts etc) I Thought that might squish the parts too much and create too thin of a barrier?
Great video. I have a fan noise coming from somewhere in the oil pan area. I also here some gurgling sound. Almost sounds like a pump. It starts when I turn the key to on, before starting my 2016 Ford 250. Any idea what that might be? Truck is a 6.7 with 120K miles. Thanks
You know if dealers will fix this issue if the truck already deleted under warranty? mines at 64k miles noticed the leak at 50ish thousand. Not bad enough yet doesn’t leave any drops on the ground and I don’t lose anything on the dipstick during my oil change intervals. But I would like to get fixed before my 100k mile warranty is up. If not how much does this job cost?
He said because it’s such a labor intensive job and doesn’t want to take any chances. He was probably concerned that that aluminum pan might be slightly warped. That’s my guess anyway.
Do they not have an actual oil pan and upper oil pan gasket available for the two pans? Just curious as to why it would be better to apply silicone than to use an actual gasket?
What year did they make 350s to start having to remove the transmission? I need to replace my oil pan and it’s a 2013. I know the 2012 don’t need the tranny touched. Hoping mine is the same way
Do you have any tips for those nasty middle passenger side upper pan bolts? I get stuck on them everytime. Can’t ever seem to figure out the proper tools to use they’re awful every time. Have 8 more trucks with this lined up SOS
Your post is a year old, so maybe you figured it out, but some on here were saying to loosen the left mount and unhook the right mount and Jack the right side of the engine up. One guy said that you can then use an electric 1/4” drive ratchet in there.
If you use a long 10 mm hand wrench to loosen it and then use a 1/4 10 mm swivel with a 1/4 extension and put it through a hole that’s under the cross over oil pan bracket you can take it off quick. And do it the same way to put it on and torque it
One commit if your doing this yourself go ahead and replace rear main while you have it all apart and can get to it. You don't want to have ho back in again just for rear main.
@@woodysworkshop816 youre in kansas city? same here. Wish i had the time to fix all the leaks on my 6.7. Ive had two of them and you cant keep oil in them it seems. I have a 13 and it leaks out the rear main and the valve covers/intake manifolds.
Bro. Always buy the 2011 pan with the d style o-ring seal. If not buy the old 7.3 part number silicone from ford. I think it’s 2 part numbers back. Way better than this new junk they’ve got.
Ok thanks. I have a 2018 f350 and Is not leaking bad but it will require to take it out and resealed. Also I have herd that the cause of that to happen is because of the crankcase filter is clogged. Is it true?
@@michelsanchez7057 I wouldn’t say it’s the cause. The 6.7 have a crankcase oil separator with a filter in it that becomes clogged and can lead to oil consumption, however, that only really effects trucks that sit a idle for a long period of time. Like spectrum trucks for example. Why the upper oil pans leak.. good question. I think it’s due to the meeting points of the engine block and the front cover.. that’s where I see them all leaking. Left front side of the upper oil pan. But with a good clean reseal it takes care of it
And for the oil consumption problem the remedy is to replace the crankcase oil separator with a superseded part (filter is not serviceable on the new one) and do a pcm update. Dealers can do that
Also you have a 2018? If the mileage is under a certain number your upper oil pan job is covered under warranty.. I think it’s 80,000 but don’t hold me to that exact info
I been working exclusivity on powerstrokes since 95. And is much easier taking the cab off. By the time you take off the transmission, the cab can be taken out. Then you take off the 2 motor mounts off and lift the engine. Much better quality work without crawling 600 times under.
why the fuck would you remove the cab for this job? This isnt a piece of shit 6.0 or 6.4 so its designed to be worked on cab on. this is an easy job on a lift.
only 2 problems I see, you didn't torque the oil pan, and used the incorrect silicone. 2017 upper oil pan torque has a base torque and a specific degree of rotation.
You do not need to remove the transmission!!!! Unbolt motor mounts, jack the harmonic balance up 3-4 inches, you can get too all the bolts easily, and the pan will clear the transmission and pick up tube. TRUST ME! After you pull the transmission and driveshafts truck will never drive the same.
Interesting, I have never seen it done that way. Even if it is possible, I am not interested in "flat rating" my personal truck. I prefer to fix things right the first time to avoid repeat repairs and by removing the transmission this allows me the visibility and space to ensure proper bonding of the upper pan. I'm not sure what you mean about removal of the transmission and driveshaft. If the truck is not the same after you performed a repair you did something wrong.
Had the dealer do my upper oil pan leak at 34K miles. They dented the f*ck out of my trans pan so I made them replace it. Also, my output shaft seal got busted after they moved the trans back and it was flinging oil all under the truck. I have a slight clunk at takeoff now (more so when I'm towing). Dealer said they can't do anything about it even after the mechanic said he felt it too 🤣 I'm now 44K miles and my upper oil pan is leaking again. I'm still within my warranty so that's a plus. If it happens again, lemon law applies. Very frustrating.
@@jasonkubitz9410 I ordered a new RAM two weeks ago, my 2017 has 29K and leaking all around (or should I say from the corners). I guess now I'll learn all about RAM problems 😆
@@ramzyotoum4047 Well, I just had my second upper oil pan fixed with a brand new oil pan under warranty. My rear end clunk is worse than ever now. Not very fun to drive. I guess we'll see if it holds oil this time though.
@@jaredmayer3960 "Silicone is silicone, made by permatex" you need to have a high-temperature silicone for this application. I believe that for several years, the wrong grade was being used and it has now been corrected.
