BTR Justin i believe you should. The dealer is a rip off. With these fords the motorcraft filters are a must. All diesel truck owners should be able to change their own oil.
I agree man. I pay a shop to do it anyway because I'm lazy but I do the fuel filter myself. It never hurts to know things and how to do things with a vehicle you drive daily and own.
Dude, I want to commend you on the effort in this video. I wish everyone can be as clear and concise as you. Seriously A+, you earned my sub for sure!!
I just did the same to my new to me 2000 F250 7.3... Your video was very helpful. I went from a Prius to my truck. Lol..I don't even have a trailer or any interested in pulling anything. I just love the old girl and how they look and sound. I was lucky enough to find a good one. One owner deal with 228k. Fully stock. Love it.
Nice, glad the video(s) helped! These trucks are truly becoming icons of a bygone era, kind of cool to experience them in a way. I also drove a tiny little Chevy Spark EV with this truck as the second vehicle, quite the contrast 😆
Thanks for replying! Looking at replacing the ICP pressure sensor & Cam shaft position sensors. I did the fuel filter, oil change, transmission filter/oil & GPR.. The truck is running great! Belts look good..Any more sensors I need to replace or be on the lookout? Thanks,
The ICP is a common one, just did that on mine, so you are good there. Unless your seeing any kind of issue I would just run it. You can get into quite the rabbit hole if you want to do "preventative" type maintenance.
Great instructional video. I have a 2002 E-450 Shuttle Bus that I'm converting into an RV. This maintenance video gives me the confidence to do these tasks on my own. Thanks!
Tip for ya, a swivel headed oil filter wrench can also be used in removing the fuel filter cap. When doing the turbo might as well replace the up pipes
The lever on the back of the housing is for draining water, periodically you should open it and drain whatever is on the bottom, be it water or debris. I leave a hose connected to the pipe and just tuck it into the frame. You dont want to tap the fuel filter on the sides of the housing like that as you can dislodge debris and drop it right back into the bowl. Clean fuel is on the center and dirty is the outside of the pleats. The fuel you pour back into the tank will most probably have water in the bottom along with debris, so dont pour it all back in. Every second oil change I change the fuel filter. While synthetic oil is great, most diesels make soot in the oil, and the soot is what kills the oil and causes wear, unless you have some type of oil by pass filter set up like a fs 2500 I would just stay with regular oil and change it on a schedule compatible with your driving and mileage.
Thanks for the good info! I thought about the water in the fuel bowl and pouring it back in after the fact. I figured it's going to get filtered again anyways but good to know.
watched the oil change segment, bought my 2000 F350 with 119K miles 6 months ago. love it. My first Diesel. Tips were great. im keeping this truck and will be looking for water separator an what else I need to maintain this vehicle,, Thanks
My only concern is the fumoto valve sticking down underneath-being a target to get snapped off-but I’m going to do one anyway, as I hate the oil down the hand/arm action. Thanks for doing this-subscribed!
Living in So Cal I use 15w40 in my 6.0 luckily walmart has rotella t4 and motorcraft oil filter. I dont use any additives just change it every 5k miles or 1 a year. I also use the same rotella in my boat, quads and yard equipment
good video my friend I, have one 7.3 F350 2001 Super dury and the problem loses power I, hope you cant help me I , send my like 👍🏼 bless you America 🇺🇸 and you family from Guatemala 🇬🇹 here and NJ
@@TheBTRGarage My bypass filter setup also has a pre-oiler pump. When you turn the key on to heat the glo plugs the pump starts circulating oil before the engine turns over. I live in Alaska and cold starts are very hard on engines, especially diesels.
@@akquicksilver do you have a favorite brand bypass filter set up or pre oiler pump? I just bought my first diesel for my bee business and Indiana can get some cold temps with some wicked winds. I expect a block heater to be a big advantage for me.
@@michaelbarrett1914 Like I stated previously, I use the Amsoil bypass set up with the pre-oiler pump. I also use the Amsoil filters on the setup. Yes, a block heater will make a huge difference for cold starting and reduce the wear and tear on the cylinders. I do highly recommend the pre-oiler system.
@@michaelbarrett1914 Like I stated, I use the Amsoil bypass filter set up with the pre-oiler, I also use the Amsoil brand filters. I would highly recommend the pre-oiler setup and the block heater would make a huge difference with your cold starts and engine wear.
Hey great video. I'm new to the powerstroke and doing my first oil change on it. Wanted to know if it's recommended to replace the oil in the hpop. I keep seeing mixed reviews on it.
Thanks for the comment! In my other 7.3 oil change video I do show how to change the hpop oil. I've seen mixed opinions on whether it is beneficial to change hpop oil too. My POV is that it can't hurt to change it, if anything, just to learn how it is done and where the hpop is. But, definitely not something you need to do regularly. I did it once before and haven't done it since.
@@TheBTRGarage thanks for the reply Justin. Sounds good I'll prob do the same. I don't know the history of the truck so I'll change it today this way I know it's done and moving forward I'll skip it a few oil changes. 👍
I've got that same truck. How is that full syn oil working out for you? I have stayed with the dino oil and would be concerned with leaking with the syn in such an old truck. Fuel filter is changed every 3rd oil change.
The oil works fine as far as I can tell. Several thousand miles since this video was made. I will switch back to 15w40 though since I moved to a warmer climate. I change my fuel filter each oil change just cause it's cheap and easy maintenance.
Some say it is pointless, some say it's a simple thing to do, so why not. I don't think it is something you would do every single oil change...but once every long while, why not :)
I've been running T6 15-40 in NY year round. Was just thinking before I do my oil change this week if I should use 5-40. Afraid the small leaks will get worse tho lol
Been changing my 7.3 oil for years and never poked a hole in the bottom of the filter to drain it! And never filled the new one before screwing it on! Will do those from now on - Thank you!! Also, have you developed any new oil leaks since changing from dino oil to synthetic? I've heard synthetic will seep in places the conventional oil does not.
The additives definitely helped, but did not cure the issues 100%. I found the real culprit, the GPR, and have a follow up video that shows that problem, if you want to check it out. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-AJ3dP70mQAA.html
I am not too happy with T6 5w40. It drinks the oil to the tune of about a quart every 500 mi. The truck only has 60k miles. Not sure what brand next. I am thinking Schaffer’s 15w40.
Auto another thing I came across today was there is a small drain plug up by the fuel filter with 2 qt of oil that never gets changed thru the oil pan that has to be vacuumed out and refilled the oil goes directly to the injectors
I felt like the stiction eliminator made the truck run noticeably smoother. But that could have just been the oil change and the fact that there is a lot more Stiction Eliminator that goes into the truck vs Arch Oil. I'm sure both products do their job well enough without any sort of "feeling" in how the engine runs.
Just purchased a 1999 7.3. I live in Massachusetts and I’m about to do my first oil change. Do you recommend the 5w40 synthetic over the 15w40 cause of the colder temps approaching?
Is there fuel in the bowl? 😁 Sounds like the tube may be gunked up, also make sure you take the lid off the bowl (air needs to displace the fuel draining or it will vacuum).
might wanna get shell rotella t6 synthetic for my next oil change on my 7.3 should I go syntgetic or conventional? does it matter? is conventional better?
Which is better will depend on who you ask, it can be a hotly debated topic :) I have always used the Rotella T5 or T6 which are synthetic blend (T5) and fully synthetic (T6). You can't go wrong with those and are recommended by many for these diesel engines.
@@TheBTRGarage ok i might as well try synthetic for my upcoming oil change on my 99 ford 7.3 with 272k miles. 5th owner. i will put a 3/4 full bottle of that hotshot stiction eliminator in there as well. tyvm for making the videos. even tho synthetic will cost more, you get what you pay for;) ;) also what about a high quality oil filter?
how come all these 7.3 fuel filter videos all show a different filter and cap coming off the truck and not ford? they all take an aftermarket out and put a motorcraft in... why all these aftermarkets and where do you get caps if you dont have them or you just want the same filter your taking out? i dont know whats in it yet but i dont want to be assed out when i do it...
The non-OEM filters are probably what's easily available at your local auto store, or auto shop doing the oil changes. I'm sure they are cheaper and cost has something to do with it. I think you'd have to go to the dealership for OEM.
This was my question exactly. I found DORMAN Part # 904-203 fuel filter cap on Amazon for $15. So now I can use a Motorcraft filter and replace my Napa all in one!
Dang you're quick! It looks like it might be, I noticed that too when changing the oil. However, I had not lost much oil. I cleaned up the area to see if more oil shows up at the next oil change. Good eye!
@@TheBTRGarage i hear they start better in the winter with the T6 but then I hear not to run T6 because the different weight oil. So I just run the T5, works ok in the winter I guess but im not below freezing all the time. Do you let your glow plugs warm up for the full 2 minutes or do you wait for the light to go out. Mine starts better if I wait.
Wix fuel filters for my 1996 Ford F350 Turbodiesel have “gone out the roof” in price in less than a year, especially Wix filters. $70.00 or so at O’Reilly’s.
Remember everyone. Do not mix fuel filters and fuel filter covers! They are not the same! I personally run Motorcraft, if you run NAPA, or WIX, you have to use their cover!!! If not it will bypass the filter, because the filters are different sizes.
The recommended interval is every 15k miles (every 3rd oil change). Some will say, on higher mileage engines, to do it every oil change because it's cheap and easy. Basically don't go longer than 15k miles, do it at 10k or 5k if you feel inclined.
I had to do the quarter trick on my 99 7.3. After I drove it a couple times. Mine seem to have more response with the fixes I have done to it. That's cool it went away.
