Reminds me of this same Ford in our shop during the one winter my dad split the tractor. I was about 6 in 1953. I remember it like was yesterday. You brought out a few things I didn't know at the time. We never split it again. We had it up to 1970. I was drafted at age 19 1/2 and blown up in Vietnam. Never farmed again. Thanks for a great video. Awesome. Regards and good luck.
Fastestinthewest Glad you enjoyed the video! And thank you for your service. In what year did you serve if I may ask? My father (seen in the background a couple times) was drafted at 19 as well. 1966- 1967 . Staff Sargent US Army.
Really enjoying the detailed explanation of your process and staging. Looking forward to watching the rest of this series. Would imagine there are thousands of these 8n, 9n and 2n tractors in various condition across the USA.
Thank you! Hope you enjoy the the rest of the series as well as my other tractor related videos on my channel. Yes these little tractors are literally scattered all over the world. It's amazing how many viewers I get from other countries.
I am in a new subscriber, I enjoyed watching this video my first one of yours. I bought a "48" 8N about a month ago, it runs good but it burns oil and am going to use it this winter for snow removal it's got a hydraulic bucket on there and next summer I'm going to rebuild the engine so your videos are going to be very educational and helpful in my rebuild. thank you for doing these videos! My long-term intentions for the tractor is to restore it. I have logged many hours on my neighbor's small farm operating old ford tractors.he's got two of them so I enjoy the tractor and I finally got a tractor for myself.
Thanks for the sub I'm glad you found the video helpful. I also have a 48 8N I have a video/slideshow of when I rebuilt the hydraulics and rear axle seals. Also a recent video of it mowing. Hopefully by next winter I'll go threw the motor and hopefully add a Sherman transmission. Enjoy your tractor!!
Nice tractor. I learned how to drive tractors on an 8n from the 40s when I was 6 with my grandfather. I just couldn’t reach the pedals yet but I could start it and steer. I almost bought on from an old guy for $500 in September and I told him I was coming to get it the following weekend on Saturday morning at 11:00. He said “ok I’ll hold it for you and not sell it to someone else and take my ad down” I got there on time and he came out and said, “you here for the ford tractor?” I said “yeah”. He said “I sold it, you didn’t show up last Saturday” I said are you kidding me. I drove an hr and a half for nothing!!!!! I was so mad. He didn’t even call and say anything.
That is crazy!! I would of been upset too!!! At least they are not rare and pop job for sale often if you want another. Dealing with people when buying or selling can be challenging. I know two people selling tractors that got cash money in hand to save it until they come with a trailer the next day to pick it up. In both cases they soon to be owners never showed up??? One guy gave $1,000 the other was $400. Does not make any Sence to me. I'd never give 1000 bucks away to never return. We are thinking maybe they died? LOL
Good video! I love the simplicity of the Ford N series tractors. They sure are tough machines. I'd like to buy one some day to tinker with. Thanks for the upload, looking forward to the rest of the series.
Thank you! Some say I talked too much but there is a lot to go over. I geared these videos twards someone with little to no experience with Ford tractors
Andy Manasco Thanks appreciate it! I'm almost done with the hydraulic system. Video should be up in a few weeks. Next week the transmission video will be posted. Thanks for watching!
Couple of questions. Where do you get your parts? Should I stay away from those cheap parts made over seas? Do you get the N-News magazine? Very good and informative magazine. A man named George Bradish advertises parts, decals and literature in it. You ever hear of him? My uncle was food service manager at St. Vincent College during the 70’s and 80’s. He said that those Steeler football players could really eat a mountain of food during summer camp!
I get all my parts from either Dennis Carpenter or Just8ns.com. They are all over seas parts there is no way to avoid it. Yes I know George Bradish. He is out in Latrobe. Mainly deals with small things such as decals and such. Had a lot of Ford's but he downsized a lot. He's getting up there in years. I've never been around the whole football thing out there. I'm not much into sports just tractors and cars.😂
That was a dang good video man! I'll definately be watching. That hole in the bell housing with a cotter pin must be a Ford thing, my Model A has the same set up.
31 Ford Thanks man!! Appreciate it!! I've got Part 2 & 3 done but not going to post them just yet. I'm actually finishing up on the hydraulics right now then on to the rear. Yeah those little holes are pretty good idea. Saves a lot of grief!
Jason1Pa I'll say that thing leaks all the time, lol. I cant imagine what a mess I'd have if it didn't have an outlet. It does it real bad over winter from the rear main, seems ok when its driven during summer tho.
Been studying your videos from 1 to 7 (or is it 6?). I have a 40 9N that we bought for $500 and pulled it home. It had set up for years. After about 30 minutes of work it breathed once again. As I started to rework the hydraulics I noticed it all appears to be original parts and as you can guess really hard to get apart. The tractor also makes that grumbling sound when driving, so I'll be tearing apart the trans as well. But on to my main question: First thing I wanted to do was change the oil and oil pan cleaning. Can you do a video on the best way to separate the steering arms and dropping the oil pan? I'm not really wanting to tear up the whatchamacallits (I'm not a mechanic, but am learning and enjoying working on this tractor) on the steering rods. Thx for your videos and will be watching to see if you do more on these tractors. Oh, can you do a short video as well on where all the grease fittings (Zergs) SHOULD be located as many on this tractor are missing.
antuan734 Thanks for watching I hope they will help you with your project. As far getting the steering arms off you can use a simple chisel or wedge and put it in between the to pieces along the side and tap with a hammer. They just need a little shock. As far as grease fittings there really are not that many. One on the steering wheel,one on each ball joint of the steering rod,and the front bolsters. That's it. I don't have any current Ford projects to do a video like you requested but I will put that into consideration if I do. If you have any questions feel free to email me at jbeluschok@yahoo.com
Very nicely done! Cant wait to see more progress! Ironically I was watching your rebuild videos the other day and thought when are you gonna make another video lol! You are from PA? I am too I am in fayette county. Great video!
Ford Farmer Thats funny you were just watching! ! Stay tuned these videos are turning out pretty good. Way better then the engine overhaul ones. I'm not far from you! Westmoreland County. Around the New Stanton / Youngwood area
Jason1Pa Yea it is lol! And they are all very good and descriptive videos! I personally dont have a N series but I do have a 3000 and 5610 and any bit of extra info about Fords is good! And small world haha! I'm outside of Uniontown out in the back woods.
The best way would be to use a roll pin punch and drive it right out. Or use a flat screw driver and catch one side on the pin as you tap with a hammer. A small socket that fits just right can be tapped down threw as well.
I have watched almost everyone of your Ford tractor rebuild videos. I have been trying to find where you showed the product you used to degrease the castings and parts. Can you please point me to the video or the product? Thanks Kevin
I use a lot of things,but mainly mineral spirits and brake clean. If something is really really covered in hard grease and it's safe to do with no damage I'll get my torch and heat and burn it off then clean with a cleaner.
@@Jason1Pa After I left this comment I found it on your #7 2N video. It is a ZEP pressure washer detergent that you had on your video. Do you still like it?
I'm replacing the top shaft of the transmission on an 8n. Do you think I can tap the shifter rails out of the way and pull them back without splitting the tractor at the clutch? Thanks!
I've got a question that I hope you can answer. I got a Ford 9n with a busted third member. Previous owner must have nailed something pretty hard. Anyhow I found an 8n housing and want to make sure that all my Ford 9N guts will fit. I was always taught that the 2,8,and 9 were the same housing but different guts/ gears.
Jason1Pa awesome. I appreciate the fast answer. Really wanting to get this fixed because gear oil ain't cheap. I got this old 9N for free from a buddy of mine that bought a piece of property and it was left on there so I'm pretty stoked on it. Again I appreciate your response and I'm sure I'll have more questions for you in the future. Lol
Lots of good information, but you might sort of tighten it up and cut down on the uhs, then I could go through it faster until I knew what I was doing.
Billy King Believe me I am well aware of that issue and did a lot of takes and editing to eliminate it as much as I could. I'm not a professional speaker or teacher. I try to talk about as much things as possible giving the best info I'm capable of. There are about ahhhhhhhh thousand things going threw ahhhhhhhh my mind when making these videos. I try my best. Hopefully in the future I will get better
Do you know why I leak transmission oil out of two small holes in the belly of a ford 2n? These are factory holes it looks like. It is a very slow drip
The holes are there to let oil escape the housing when the input shaft seal of the transmission starts to leak. The hole should have a Carter pin (that can only be replaced when tractor is split) in it. The purpose of that is so keep the hole from plugging up. If you wouldn't have that hole and you had a leak eventually the oil would be getting on your clutch causing it to slip.
Great video! My 47N has the Sherman step up transmission. Should the input shaft slide out into the transmission housing? Mine will only pull out a couple inches and then it catches. Is there a way to release it? I didn't want to force it and I can't get the counter shaft out with the input shaft in the way. I appreciate the help.
Are you trying to pull the input shaft out with the gears still in place? If you remove your Sherman transmissions you should see the bearing and the input shaft there. Is that what your trying to pull out?
I’m trying to pull the rear half of the input shaft (not sure if that’s the correct terminology) out through the transmission housing so I can remove the counter shaft. I was trying to do this without removing the Sherman transmission but maybe I have to do that first?
@@navyvetta7125 I don't know of any videos off hand. I'm actually looking for a Sherman now (Up /Down Combo) to put in a 8N I have but it will be a while before any video gets made. There is nothing complex. Remove the shifter and remove the 4 bolts and pull it out. They are heavy. Probably around 80 pounds or so. There will be shims on the back side. When putting it back together make sure it is shimmed properly to get the correct bearing preload. Also remember to change the gear oil. This is the only time you can do it. Wouldn't be a bad idea to replace the seal as well since it is out.
You haven't truly worked on a tractor until you had to completly rebuild then entire transmission assembly all the way back to the Jackshaft and PTO Assembly.
When it comes to Ford Tractors I only order parts from Just8ns .com or Dennis Carpenter. They might not carry as many parts for a 860 but do have some. If your needing basic stuff like bearing you should be ok.
jason: why do you sound like you have pulled apart dozens of tractor transmissions that were built maybe 50 or more years before your birth. These tractors are about my age and you are doing good work. I would say that bearing went out strictly because of water. I think you got it just in time to not hurt the mating component.
Have restored multiple tractors from the ground up. I've been driving Ford's since I was around 9 or 10 years old. We have 3 Ford's. All my neighbors,friends,family etc have had Ford so I've worked on them a lot. That bearing that failed is probably the most common to fail do to its size. This tractor was purchased by my grandfather when it was only a few years old. We know the history. The transmission was never taken apart until this video. No moisture or water was ever in it. Tractor has always been inside a fluids changed often. Thanks for watching!
@@Jason1Pa thanks for making your videos. I would like an 8n ford, but would personally like an old ford flathead v8 so I could mow with the best. NOT with open headers thanks. Keep making good vids. How would you put a front snow blower on one of these or not? Can they have another hydraulic pump? I think I have seen one under the Magneto.
@@PaulHigginbothamSr The V8 conversions are cool 😎 I've been wanting to build one forever just never happened. To be honest though they are better as a show piece then a practical useful tractor. There are people that put a hydraulic pump out front of the tractor that run off the crankshaft to use other implements. Thats probably what you mentioned. As far as snowblowers go the N series Ford's or any antique tractor for that matter is not a good fit. The Ford's simply go too fast even in first gear. Something like a snowblower requires a high RPM so if your in first gear with the throttle wide open it would almost be like eating a bunch of food real fast with out chewing. I have seen people adapt a smaller air cooled engine to the back of a antique tractor that runs the snowblower only. That way you could drive the tractor in first gear at idle (slow) and have the high RPM of the air cooled engine running the blower fast enough to function. Your newer tractors with hydrostatic drive or standard transmission with a high and low range transmission with multiple gears will perform far better with a snowblower. Now don't get me wrong if you had a Ford on a hard surface with a powder snow only a few inches it will probably get you by but how often are there ideal conditions?
@@Jason1Pa thanks for answering Jason: Yah I have heard the same about the mower and the reason I have used other tractors. But I do like the old fords a lot. It seems like there could be an elegant solution to the speed problem like on certain fords to have power steering if you put weights on the front end like on the 1000's. I just like the 1940's style of simplicity, and the kind I drove as a child.
Well that is kind of a hard question to answer. Every tractor needs something different. The biggest expense is machine work and tires. If you watched all my videos this tractor has had everything done. Literally every bolt has been turned,bearings,seals,bushings replaced. I have around 6k in it now and hasn't been painted yet
I'm not sure what year my 2n is, but I recently lost hydraulic function, when I engage the clutch the 3pt drops fairly quickly. And when I have it at full throttle in neutral and the 3pt lever up the 3 pt bounces like crazy. Any ideas?!?
Your either losing pressure in two places. Up in the lift cylinder (up under your set under top cover) or the relief valve in the pump. Put the tractor on level ground. Take the circular plate off on the right hand side that has the dipstick for your hydraulic/gear oil. Start the the tractor up and lift your implement in the air the shut tractor off and look inside. If you see any oil dripping down from above you have worn hydraulic piston rings/sleeve. If you see and turbulence in the oil down around the pump in the belly you have a relief valve leaking pressure. Or could be a combination of both. Those are the 2 areas where pressure can escape.
@@Boone9269 why are you taking it out now? If it's to see why your hydraulics are not working DONT because it won't help you in anyway. If you want to see where the pressure leak is leave it in and do the test I just mentioned. Good luck
I can't remember total cost but parts were around 1,500+. That's a total rebuild of steering box,transmission,hydraulic system,rear end,and brakes. As far as labor I didn't charge myself. LOL