I replaced the alternator and still had the battery light come back on… I googled and found this video and it was the exact problem and exact pin. Thank you so much. Thanks so much for also doing an excellent job in describing which pin you were testing as well. This video saved me
Your video helped me understand my problem. Had continuity on both pin 14 & 53, nothing grounded or crossed. I Used a tone and probe to follow the correct group of wires, although I had a rough time seeing the complete pathway I managed to find the floating ground and replaced the ALT plug with additional wire length. When I turned right, (at first),the truck would lean to the left! The front differential cover moved up into the wire harness, grounding the blue orange conductor! I replaced all three wires, soldered, heat shrink, wire loom & taped ! "'NO MORE BATTERY ISSUES'" !!! Thanks Dan !
Replacing the wire instead of trying to fix that original wire is the way to go. Saves time, money and does the same thing the original . If I was the customer I would be perfectly fine with that repair.
Great video man! Because of your video I fix my truck. The pi 14 was open to alternator. I ran an overlay and now it's fixed. Again, I really appreciate it!
Good job..! Also, if you disconnect the connector at the alternator and jump gen com with gen mon, and look at scanner pids, both of those should mirror each other intermittent. This confirms wiring integrity. However in your case, you would probably see two different values on each line, because you had an open circuit.
Great work! I'm sure they were happy with the job rather than a new harness and long process of running all the new wiring harness from point a to point b. I wish we had mechanics like you around here!
Nice job, use to do automotive electronics, just test drive a 2014 150, no lights or codes, was under 15v but my $100 Innova said it maybe overcharging, battery check was fine. Pos term is fairly dirty from sitting, thinking that maybe causing some resistance. Coyote runs like a bat outa hell, going through it with inspector tomorrow
I'm having pretty much the same issue on my 14 Ford Focus ST. Thanks for the info. Going to get the wire diagrams and pin outs so I can test. Thanks again
I'm glad I didn't replace it when it was showing issues, or I'd been in a lot better continuity state then I am now, but as long as my car is happy with unnecessary contacts when all I needed was faith and trust in the electric producer that went the full race with the original one 1.... ! TGIF. WISH ID HAVE THOUGHT THAT WAY!
You know what OL stands for. Outta luck! I’m about to do this to my Taurus wagon. Iv changed everything and feel dumb for not testing the harness like I knew I should. Same with cam and crank and maf sensors. Check the harness first!
I did a ohms check on the yellow and in my situation it is a blue with red stripped wire. They both ran with like 2 ohms of resistance. Does that sound right. My buddy said it is a straight wire and the ohms should read zero. I was getting the battle voltage at the red wire so I figure it was good. I am gonna change the two wires to the alternator to what 14 and 51. I was not going to cut the wires but set the new wired in parallel, or do you think that is a bad idea if the factory wire is shorting out.
These is happening to me now but after the 2 day my battery died but when I run the head lights shows juice but I try to crank it lights blink out so do you think it’s battery or same problem?
It's not much different than a "bodge wire" repair on a circuit board. If a trace or contact pad is damaged on a board, you just bridge the opening in the circuit with a very fine piece of wire. The dealer saying "Needs new harness" isn't much different than Apple telling you "needs new logic board".
Put a GR821 regulator on a 98 F150 4.6 and the battery light came on. They say this is not the proper regulator for some of these alternators because they came out with the smart charging system right about that time. It works fine but the battery light stays on.
I got a question did u cut the old wire off and add in this wire so it doesn't randomly start working again and short something out if possible? Just curious
Grand marquis2001 non pcm charging inly 13v i replaced battery and alternator still like same it should be at 14,3 I have checked every thing i am so confused☹🙇♂️
currently having his issue with my 2.3 mustang swapped alternatorssss many and brand new battery new fuses too gonna try this next will respond with an update so far i found the connector plugs for the pcm now i just need to find the wiring digram for the alternator to pcm
Where does the red wire go? I have red wire problem. I’m stripping back harness right now. I already tested yellow and purple all good. I have continuity on red to 1ft away to battery. But so far there’s a thicker wire not sure if spliced to heavier gauge.
Have this problem on a 2018 F250. I tested the wires with a meter as well as with a 32watt bulb. All rings out good. Bulb lights up full brightness. But battery light is still on. Getting anywhere between 12.5-13.9V. No CEL. What could it be?
Hello. Ik it's been a while. But where were the pins shorting? I'm having issues but mine test good also. Do I take the connector apart going into the pcm?
97 F150 had new wires/ plugs and intake gasket yesterday as misfired after new plugs kept occurring. Battery light was on soon as I started truck. Battery was old and had died on dealer weeks ago when read my code and diagnosed. I'd had it tested as fine before drained but wanted Battery months ago. So today I got the new battery but Battery light still on could not be found why by dealer today. I don't know how much time they actually looked for why but I was there all day and sent on my way not fixed. There was history of shorts but fixed. I couldn't get why bulb on while work done would make Battery read bad. So I thought good grief another alternator if they went with that. But they did say it's fine and couldn't understand yet. No date to bring truck back in. I thought look for typical known reasons from online but wiring does tend to be a dry rot issue a d now for sometime both covers for fuses and that pcm have covers missing after was worked on somewhere. Frustrating. I never was a mechanic but we didn't have wiring nor alt on my last race car so I'm leary of digging in on problems by myself and tools are now gone anyway. So I can follow along or search a problem and know these trucks are old now.
I'm having the same issue with my 2003. I wonder if this could be my issue also. I will have to check this out tomorrow. My light will normally stays on but it will go out from time to time. I haven't changed anything out but I have been keep a check on my alternator and it is charging over 14 volts. Well thanks for sharing this now I hope this will fix mine as well.
One question inhave this problem but my truck stays in 0 to 1 rpm and once it gets low battery light comes on back up it goes off and so on any suggestions just changed battery
Looked like Alldata. Pretty sure you have to subscribe tho. But u might be able to buy a short subscription if you only need it here and there for your odd repair job.
Thats not a beefy wire - 20 gauge. ...easy to rot out in water if harness gets wet and doesnt drain off. Also try sending tone to fault may reveal other problems soon to follow
hey brother plz reply back , i am having ford fiesta diesel , whenever i start the car battery warning light comes on the dash but if i revv the car till 4k rpm it disappears , and wont come back till i turn off the car , what is the issue
Well I’m searching RU-vid have a issue with my 2001 f350 7.3 I have no engine light at all coming on turn key check the red and green wire on alternator that’s supposed to power to 12 volts with key on I’m getting very little volts around 4 from what I’ve found it controls the regulator in alternator to start charge is there a way to run a new wire as you did here thanks hope someone can help
Same problem but on 2003 Mitsubishi montero sport my battery and brake light came on I’ve driven over 100 miles and still running fine I took to auto parts store and battery and alternator charging system tested ok. Runs fine now but light on any suggestions thanks
My truck ended up dying on the freeway lost power to the windows, lights in the dash, lights all around but it was still running up until I turned it off now it won’t start again 😢
Trying to replace that harness would cause more damage than you would think. Much better to run new single wire. There is a right way to run a new wire and if done correctly will last longer than the vehicle. NO WIRE NUTS! Lol
Fixitrealfast guy had this gizmo gadget that let you follow a wire along it's path to eventually find the bad spot. This tool sniffs the amps put thru the wire.
