Helpful Tips: If Window Switch operates in reverse with an aftermarket window regulator (meaning press up button & window goes down or vice versa) = Switch the two female wires within wire coupler (6:20). Also, if you're using 1/4 in - 20 x 1/2 in stainless steel bolts, with nylon lock nuts instead of rivets, it helps to remove the speaker, so you can get behind the bolts with wrench to tighten some of them.
Hello and thanks for the video and the tips. I took apart the driver's side panel due to manual crank malfunction, and found a bare steel cable. It is about as thin as uncooked spaghetti. It seems to be inside the vertical track when I pull the window up with my weakening thumb and forefinger, and it seems to go down below the 2 bottom rivets holding the lower end of the track. I don't know what this bare cable does, and I cannot get the window to go all the way up even with slight force. I lubed the window track fore and aft, but still cannot get the hand-crank to budge. Any suggestions?
Great video thanks for posting, did this just today on my RV, was so perfect to watch and go do the work. Plus had to back up the vid and watch to make sure I was doing it correctly. window is back in action.
I have a broken glass with working original regulator, where do the regulator cables attach to the window glass mount to up/down aluminum frame you just had?
Thank you for this great video! For me getting the rivets out was one of the easiest parts with a hammer and punch. It took me longer to get all the replacement bolts in just because it’s a tight squeeze in that door compartment. I was slower than molasses in January but I got it done! Thanks again!
Very good easy to follow along video. One of the problems i have with something like this is not actually being able to see what im working on which makes me overthink the problem because i cant disect it to understand the mechanics of it. In the past i would search for junk parts vehicles which usually under two hundred bucks and take that vehicle apart and whatever it was such as doors iwould cut apart so i could physically see what the part looked like still intact but in that case it led to an obsession. Ive had close to about fifty to sixty 73 to79 f series pickups over the years to not only work them but to work on them. There was always a rot box or two around just to learn about them. Not so fortunate nowadays politics dictating what you can or cannot do on your own property or property you rent but that being said thanks for the video
I believe I have everything taken apart but I cannot get the top two studs in the oval holes to come out there's a lot of pressure there to get them to come out
@@peterdeeble5381 I'm trying to remember but try dropping the window down some while you're trying to get that out I think the problem was I had the window up all the way once I brought the window down it came out easier I think
Where does the cable connect on the window? We have 2004 e350 van that the window just slowly went down. We can only pull/push it half way up and it stops.
I got all the rivets removed and the nuts at the top. But I can’t get the window regulator out. It seems like I need to push those bolts at the top back until they slip through the frame, but I can’t push them back hard enough to free them. is there something I’m missing?
I figured it out. I needed to remove the rivets that held the glass in place. Which required figuring out how to lower the window. I got it all sorted out though. Thank you so much!
@@PowerUpAuto I am perfectly capable, I have all the tools, you just left out some key steps like the bottom rivets that I had to raise and lower the window to drill them., I've got it now.
I just bought a 2013 Ford E350 passenger van.It came with no power accessories. OK. I find the driver door window crtank is about ankle level and can't be used while belted. It is almost necessary to crack the door to use it. Are there any modifications to make it more accessible? drive ups will be nasty in January like this. Any ideas?
Thanks! Now - anybody got any ideas about where I can find a Captains Chair for the passenger side? 2006 e350. Hunted the internet for a while to no avail!
Yeah, on the one I filmed there were nuts & bolts. To remove the rivets punch out the center point of the rivet (the steel mandrel) and then drill off the aluminum rivets with a 1/4" drill bit
"There's a center point to the rivet. You're gonna bang out the mandrel [rivet pin], the center point, and then you're gonna drill out the rivet." Easier said than done! Especially the one on the R-side for the window bracket where you've got a 2" hole to work in. If the pin won't bang out and you're forced to drill it, be prepared for a lesson in frustration. Also, the only way to get my regulator assembly out of the door cavity was through the speaker hole. 2008 Ford E350 passenger van.
I can't get it out thru the speaker hole. Should come out with minimal work thru the main opening. The center point of the rivet (the mandrel) WILL punch out. Might need a bit of power and along awl/punch. Option B, drive down to Tampa FL and I can do it.
@@PowerUpAuto I got all the rivets out it's just that 1 was a real PIA. I tried taking the assembly out the main opening but it was much easier through the speaker hole.
The add on overlay kits are available online BUT, they are not fast and wear out quickly. You are adding an additional motor/regulator OVER the existing hand crank cable regulator in the door now. BEST would be change the entire regulator with a OEM, FORD, Motor/regulator assembly. You will need to add aftermarket switches and wiring.
How do I get the window to release from silicone black plate that holds the windows in place they have rivots in the black plate that's connected to the long metal bar
You need to drill out the rivets. Knock out the center point of the rivet (the mandrel) and then you should be able to use a 1/4" drill bit to drill off the rivets.@@MJGMA
@PowerUpAuto now the O2 sensors tomorrow I am 54 young female and have been remodeling houses fixing cars most of my life by myself I am my dads daughter and son he wished for lol I have 3 other siblings 1 older sister 1 older brother 1 younger brother though lol thanks for your help those rivets were a bi@#; lol
Ok this guy is legit. I ordered the window regulator for my Ford e150 he said I needed. Delivered a couple days. Installed and I'm a happy. Thank you thank you.
I have a 2003 ford E-250 and the window fell down and won’t go back up, even if I manually try to lift up with my hand. The window appears to be hitting on something. It may be the motor but I’m trying to get the window up and secure the vehicle until I can replace it. Any suggestions?
@@bobbyvilla2332 The cables come with the new regulator. AND if you can's tell the electrical cable from the metal cable on the regulator please do not try this yourself. Pay someone to do it.
@@jessicalastname6865 The TRACK is glued to the glass. The regulator is RIVETED to the track. By removing those rivets you can then remove the regulator. The actual Track will not be coming off the glass.
Kinda like watching a silent movie. Way before anybody's time. I like informative videos that have some entertainment value. The video is too much to the point. Slow down, do more pointing, have some ambient background sound. Even though some things are "self explanatory", it's more assuring to be redundant and explain things as if you are talking to a six year old. This video doesn't really save anyone's time as one may have to watch it two or three times to get it. Teaching, along with production and entertainment, are essential for building an audience.
Very confusing do you require a riveting tool and if so where do you buy them. I am completely confused by this video you don’t explain in anyway what the rivetingtool is for.
The regulator is held in with rivetss. Marson Big Daddy rivet tool. About $100 on line. AND you will need 1/4" regulator rivets. You can do this with 1/4" nuts and bolts but it is more work.
@@PowerUpAuto thanks for the instructions, I started to work on the passenger side window of my e150 2003, all fastener were rivets and I had the hardest time to remove them (drill, grinder, chisel and hammer, combo of all). After hours I was able to remove most of them except for the 3rd one by the speaker. Looking inside the door noticed the glass is glued to a piece of metal that is fastened with rivets to the crossbar that goes up and down. Any advice on how to safely remove those rivets without damaging the glass? Or does that metal plate gets snapped into the vertical bar? (it's attached to the vertical bar on both sides with plastic clips).
@@beaalvarez9714 Easier than it seems. First punch out the mandrel (the center point of the rivet) with a hammer and punch. Should bang out pretty easy. Then its simple to drill out the rivets using a sharp 1/4 " drill bit. The only time you might not want to punch out the center point is if the glass is Laminated (yours should be tempered).
I just did this. I had to replace the whole door because someone popped the lock and damaged the lock hole. 2002 door is DIFFERENT than 2006 at where the mirror mounts. A lot of modification to make fit. I had no guts to punch the center pins of the 2 rivets on bracket holding the glass. There is no back support on the bracket and I did not want to shatter the glass. I did it by grinding and drilling and there is no easy access to one rivet. WHAT A PAIN. Ford, I hate u.
I've had to dremel the rivets off sometimes. Only times I have damages the glass was knocking the center point (mandrel) of the rivet out on LAMINATED glass. Specifically Lincoln Aviator
Phillips screwdriver. But you will need a 1/4” regulator tool. You could also use 1/4” nuts and bolts to reinstall the regulator. Check out the video and please ask if you have any other questions.
Video is too heavily edited, doesn't show step-by-step directions, and it's not even reality, since rivets and not nuts and bolts are what held everything in place, and rivets are harder to remove than simply screwing and un-screwing nuts and bolts
I did mention there were usually rivets that needed to be drilled out. And I did replace the bolts with rivets. And it's not edited. Thanks for the feedback though.
