Ford EEC-IV No Start No Fuel Pressure Troubleshooting (Lincoln Towncar) 

Hey guys and girls, pay attention to this case study and Paul's other early videos and case studies and compare them with a newer video. One thing you'll see is that the fundamentals are always there. A different test or procedure may be used to show us different ways of getting to the same point, but Paul doesn't flip flop on the actual fundamentals. It just goes to show that it doesn't matter how old a vehicle is as long as you stick with the fundamentals you will find your answer. Stay blessed everyone, and thank you Paul, Caleb, and everyone else involved in this awesome case study!

i took a diagnostic class at the local college and the instructor wasnt even close to the knowledge and instructional ability that you have or teach your students i can get pretty educated on diagnosing issues.....you rock my friend thank you so much....👍💪👊

For anyone contemplating signing up for SDP then this video is just the tip of the iceberg with respect of technical content, quality video viewing due to great editing and also the relaxed "easy to follow" teaching style. Thoroughly enjoyed this one Paul, and as always its great to see you adding the whole story such as you blowing the fuse. You didnt have to tell us that it was you but it just proves that these case studies are real world and are what happens to us techs on the daily grind 👍

Thank you Caleb for assisting your dad, so he can focus on teaching you and us!!

You are awesome !!!!! I consider myself a very thorough mechanic,won't say I'm a great one but adequate at best. Anyhow I will say you were the most thorough and knowledgeable mechanic I have seen in such a long time. I would let you work on anything I've ever had ever will own thank you for your time

Unlike most videos on RU-vid, this is well worth the time. Thank you.

Every time I come back to watch your videos, I get motivated to get in and go after it! Thanks, SD!

On EEC-IV, check the codes. Do the solenoid and relay test. It'll operate the fuel pump relay and pump. The relay should click.The inertia switch is inline of the relay. Check for voltage at the pump. If no voltage, check upstream. Jump the pump to the battery. It should work. Check pressure. The solenoid and relay test will tell you if the relay and pump is working. It'll give a code about fuel pump circuit if the pump or relay isn't working. Check if there's a fuse. Get fuses that says Littlefuse. Don't hook up a test light to computer circuits. It'll damage the computer. Check for battery drain at the battery with a test light to check for shorts.

I appreciate that you show any mistake that you make, we can all learn from them as well, Thanks! :)

Scannerdanner thanks alot for give us your free videos,youre the best teacher in youtube.thank you!!

i never look at a vehicle without a wiring diagram,but sometime times we go on instinct and experience

Buenas tardes. saludos! a pesar que no entiendo mucho el idioma ingles, hago todo el esfuerzo posible en ver y aprender cada una de sus clases.....ya que usted nos enseña verdaderamente como funcionan los sitemas en el automovil. Nos ayudas a comprender verdaderamente como funciona el sitema de inyeccion y los demas sistemas del automovil.....lo haces tan facil de entender! tienes un don para enseñar. estoy seguro que aparte de un buen profesor, tecnico automotriz bien preparado...eres exelente ser humano!!! no cambie nunca su modo de ser. Exitos para usted, sus alumnos, sus compañeros de trabajo y su familia. saludos desde Venezuela. espero que el traductor de google sepa traducirle bien este parrafo. mil gracias por enseñar.

1990 EEC-IV Town Car 5.0L has electronic fuel port injection using an electric fuel pump. To test pressure you don't have to crank the engine, when you go key on the pump should run for 1 or 2 seconds, and if you have the door open an listen carefully many times you can here the pump running. The fuel system is a return type using a pressure regulator to keep the pressure across the injectors constant with a change in vacuum (Throttle), so the best fuel pressure measurement is actually a differential pressure using rail and manifold pressure. However, you rarely see the use of a differential fuel pressure transducer due to its cost. (they can be very helpful if you have a leaky pump where the engine has problems at WOT). There may also be an inertial impact sensor that disables the fuel pump after a collision, I think it is in the trunk of this vehicle. EEC-IV has a 60 pin connector. When IGN power is applied to the EEC-IV ECM it will boot in under 60ms, which is less time it takes for the starter solenoid to actuate. For this year vehicle the OEM Town Car shop manuals are very complete which includes; Large Electrical Schematic Sheets, EVTM, and both Shop Manuals. A good starting point would be to look at the vehicle electrical EVTM. For this year vehicle you can use the Ford Super Star II tester or the NGS with the pre OBD-II under hood diagnostic connectors. The EEC relay is there to provide reverse battery protection. It does this by having a diode in series with the coil side, so the relay will only be energized if the battery polarity is correct. The diode is located in the same relay box at the far left. I have never seen one of these diodes fail due to a bad diode, they usually fail because of corrosion at the mating connector pins. The relay tester kit I like to use is the Lisle 69300 Master Relay Test Jump Set, which breaks out the relay signals with the relay in circuit and has a switch and jumpers to do the energizing and bypass tests. The standard medium fuse type in the passenger compartment is type ATO (the O indicates the fuse element being open to atmosphere). The under hood standard medium fuse is type ATC (the C indicates the plastic body is closed so when the fuse opens under hood it cannot ignite any fuel vapors that may be present). Many times you will see the ATO/ATC listed together as a fuse option, but what is really meant is you can use ATC in the passenger compartment, but ATOs are not used under hood.

great video Paul Danner. back in 198Os. when I worked at a Ford Dealership. I can remember using a analog voltmeter. count the sweeps for the trouble Codes. and used a dwell meter to check the duty cycle of the mixture controlled solenoid. I think it was like 10 times per second. thinking back I didn't like feedback carburetors. back then it was very time consuming to troubleshoot the fords. I didn't mind the older fords from the late 60s , 70s . very simple. thank goodness for OBD 2. I sure enjoyed this video. brought back some memories. thanks

It's so funny hearing a 1990 model described as "old school." To me, that would mean carburetion, probably points in the dizzy, and enough room under the hood for me to stand, rather than leaning over the fender. Guess I'm the one getting old. :-P

Sweet picture in picture action elevating the over all understanding of the circuit. Loved the drawing as well around the 19:00 minute mark. Great video and thanks so much for the follow up and why that fuse could have blown. It's kind of cool actually, now you can sleep knowing why it failed.

Thanks to your ebook and videos I was able to fix my 98 Taurus 3.0 24V. It cranked, but no start and no RPM signal. I hooked up my scanner. It detected a cam sensor problem. The wiring at the cam connector was bad. I fixed it. Still no start. I checked voltage on both cam sensor wires. They both read .1v. I left the voltmeter connected and disconnected any sensor that was on the same circuit, which were a whopping 13 sensors that were all on the cam sensor circuit. When I touched the 9 wire connector at trans, the meter voltage jumped to 2.5 v. I removed the connector and it was full of trans fluid and rusted. I cleaned it with air and contact cleaner. Still no start, but almost started. I raised up the vehicle and found the crankshaft harness leaning on the vehicle frame. I repaired the damage and it started!!! Although the cam and crank sensors run on different circuits, I believe my scanner detected a cam sensor problem because the PCM depends on both sensors to create an RPM signal. This vehicle had a cold misfire. I thought it was a bad intake/plenum gasket. After all these repairs, the cold misfire went away. Go figure. Praise God for Mr Danner!🕺🙏👍🇺🇸

Sweet custom polished diamond plate radiator cover. You won't forget blowing the fuse on this car for a longgggg time! Nice job with the video Paul.

Great job by both of you guys. Nice to have someone to hold my hand and walk me through the mine field.

Last good car platform that was ever built, IMO. I've got a '86 Grand Marquis - basically the same chassis, different body. I'm surprised to see the pump on that Lincoln fail at 164k! I'm still on my OE pump at 250k! I guess that just goes to show the differences in quality from '86 -'90 - alot can change in 4 years! No airbag in my car, nor are there any fuses under the hood (no Maxis anywhere either). Same basic layout, though. We don't drive it in winter, so she's a gem. Very little rust (had to drive it 4 months of one winter back when we first bought it in '03). Only electrical gremlins I had was a shorted A/C compressor clutch feed, and a bad headlight switch. Not bad for 32 years! That uActivate tool is great - I definitely need to be buying one of those soon. Thanks for going above and beyond, as usual! I noticed in the video description section that you broke down every section of this video, and took the time to label them AND post time links to that section, AND posted the links to videos related, AND the links to the tools! You are an asset to humanity, Paul!! And a big THANK YOU to Cameraman Caleb as well! 👍 God bless you guys.

Hi paul, absolutely phenomenal work you do bud. I am an truck mechanic here in the uk and i really like the fact the verus has a scope and would love to learn how to use on a truck system. I take it i just need to mess about with the scale to show the 24v systems. A job in particular was an adblue pump triping the fuse. I think getting some waveforms and learning how to use the scope would give me some real insight into its function. Thanks for your time

Caleb asks such good questions for the laymen... or people not in the repair field. The description of the relay was the best explanation, by far, I've ever heard. I over do it. Lol

Just a heads up, many Toyotas, Lexus, and Scions do not prime the fuel pump. The pump only runs when there is a crank signal.

You can can ground part of the data link connector to chassis with key on and it will act like the computer ground(control side) and energize the relay, turning the pump on continuously as if the computer is getting rpm signal.

Great video as usual. I learned on these cars at my first mechanic job fresh out of MOTECH while working at Troy Ford in Michigan. Man I still have my OTC obd1 Monitor 2000, ahhh so long ago.

I just energize pin (87) at the respective Relay using the Power Probe. Its quick and simple. Pin (87) is normally feeding the actual component. This is a universal principle. Terminal (85)= Ground Control side of relay. Terminal (86) = switched control side of relay. Terminal (87)= Component load side of relay. Terminal (30)= Constant 12 volts Direct Current at the relay. "Load Side"

Great video Paul, when I need a guaranteed power and gnd for my testlight I use the lead from my PP3 and my SnapOn testlight EECT313A00 which has a 4mm banana jack each end. It draws 440mA but sadly Snap-on don’t sell it anymore.

Your son should get his own channel on how he is editing your work

Im learning right along with Caleb. I admire that he's asking questions as you go along. That's the best way to get the best knowledge in any field of study

Nice Job Paul! I just had a 99 Ford Ranger(2wd, 4.0liter)that was a Crank No Start No Communication, No MIL, No Spark, No Fuel Pump Activity, No Ref Circuit. Obviously all of those involve the PCM and PCM power relay. I quickly narrowed it down to no power to PCM. The Power relay was "clicking" so with a simple incandescent test light, I determined the relay was at fault. Swapped relays and boom, she fired right up.Oh and BTW, I'm an idiot so If I can do this diagnosing, anyone can LOL

Scanner Danner.... one of the few Americans with a brain. And good hands 👊

you can actually do the same thing as the relay switch by using a piece of wire and inserting each one of it's ends into each of the power pins on the fuel pump relay slot in the fuse box. However, this will keep the fuel pump running and you have to pull the wire out to stop it. The saewave tool allows you to turn it off on demand. This is an old trick used when a fuse blows on the road and you don't have a replacement.

I have the astra light as wel in holland. Different brand. Best light i ever bought.

I have seen either of those relays short out inside from rust build up and pop that fuse. I always suggest to replace both relays when replacing a fuel pump. Take them out and shake them. If there is rust inside you will hear it. I have been bitten one too many times. Nice job Caleb. You will be smarter than Dad soon.

Your vids are always informative BUT this is one of your best.... your quick Drawings of the circuits and what you were testing really helped clarify and illuminate the concepts...outstanding... Thanks Kalib for the edits, but most of all, thanks for the questions that caused your Dad to sketch the electrical layout, components, and test areas ALONG WITH why it was tested as well as the reason SD choose the sequence he did..... Excellent..... Tom Jones, New Orleans, LA.

Paul, splice a banana jack on the end of your test light in place of the alligator clip. Then you can use the Power Probe extension cable with your incandescent test light. I did this on my test light and couldn't be happier! When I need an alligator clip on it I just plug one in but I find it easier to use the PP extension cable for most everything and haven't needed the alligator clip.

Love, absolutely love, that you showed that even the pros make mistakes. It's really nice to see that mistakes happen to everyone. Great vid. Thanks for the upload! N/W Scotland

very good your teachings friend paul! and above all the humility with which he teaches ... greetings and blessings!

Thanks to kaleb for the camera work and editing. You could show the people helping you, I really wouldn't mind. I don't think many Hollywood talent scouts watch these videos so you probably needn't worry about competition there.

Always nice to see classic panthers. My dad built these back in the days.

THANKS, CALEB! While you re teaching Caleb about these things, feel free to teach him about this one! 1990 Chevy 3500 w/454 tbi. Would start/idle roughly, would accept no throttle, would increase in rpm if you pumped the throttle rapidly! I once had an 88 S-10 2.8 tbi, that had a strange issue!! It turned out that the neoprene rubber piece that connected the pump to the main fuel outlet on the pump assembly unit in the tank, had a split. I had no way to test it, but disconnect the line and you would have fuel flow. Reconnect it, and it wouldn't start!! I found the split in the connector piece after I removed the tank! Back to the 90 3500! I was fixing for a (very picky)friend!! I decided that the fuel pump had that split in the connector, just like my S-10 blazer did, years ago!! I went and rented the fuel line connector kit, for the throttle body fuel line, and showed him that even tho it started and ran, it had no fuel pressure, and that's why it acted as it did! So I got to work taking the tank out of this OLD, RUSTY, DECREPIT MONSTER, which had been sitting. Others had worked on it, which made the job that much more difficult, except that they had cut the metal fuel lines, and spliced in some rubber line, which made that somewhat easier to to get out!! But, in the process, I disturbed a BROWN RECLUSE SPIDER NEST!! And boy, I'm twice as arachnophobic, as you are a mechanic! But that's a story for another time!!! Anyway, I got the tank out, inspected it, and showed my theory to my friend!! There was a split in the pump connector to the main fuel line piece!! Of course, he wanted to JERRY RIG IT!! I refused!! It was not simple to get the monster out, take the pump out, or put back in, and I wasn't doing it again in three months, when the old assed fuel pump finally gave up and retired!! The new pump came with a new neoprene rubber connector! The new pump ran like a top, sounded strong, and was even quieter than the pump it was replacing! (We didn't dry run it) I got it all out back together, and attempted to start it, and he wanted to see the fuel pressure, before it ran! He turned on the key, and got out to look at my face, when there was no fuel pressure on the GUAGE!! We never unhooked the setup during the fix!! It was difficult, to say the least, and it was rented, so it was get it done fast! There was no pressure!! I told him to cycle the key, two or three times! I could feel the relay clicking!! Since the steel line had been replaced with rubber ones, I decided to verify fuel flow, by disconnecting the fuel filter again! SSSPPPLLLOOOOOOOSHHH!!! Fuel went everywhere!! I had no safety glasses on, and it went into my eyes!! It got in my mouth, and I couldn't even yell for help!! It got in my ears, and BURNED LIKE SATANS SPIT!! I thought I was done for! I crawled out, and managed to groan a bit, and and then eeek out a WWWWWAAAAAAAAAA, BAD!! It was a bad experience to say the least!! Blind, in pain, unable to ask for help, tell what happened, or communicate my need!! He smelled the gas, and guessed! Led me to a seat, got me a few paper towels, and then asked do I need an ambulance!! I was able to say no, but I needed to get inside to wash!! He led me inside, got me to the shower and turned it on, while I got on my knees to wash, run the water over my head, and to wash out my eyes!! My ears were the worst, for some reason!! GAS IN MY EARS WAS EXCRUCIATINGLY PAINFUL!! I guess that I closed my eyes as a reflex, but couldn't close my ears, and it just filled them up!! NO READING ON THE GAUGE, DOES NOT MEAN NO FUEL FLOW!! Just like testing the test light to see if it had good power and good ground, no pressure reading on the gauge, doesn't mean there is no fuel present! I pulled a rubber line from an inline filter!! When the clamp was loosened, and I started to take the line off, pressure blew the line off, and I was less than a foot away, underneath it! I did not prepare myself, as if there was pressure!! I didn't not prepare myself as if there was fuel! I did not prepare myself as if it was a dangerous activity! No rags, no eye protection, no fire extinguisher, just a redneck, shade tree, backyard idiot, practicing his specialty! STUPIDITY!! I laid down, on my back, scooted under, and worked with danger in my face, at even less then an arms length, and looked straight at it!! I am ok. No permanent damage! No hospital, or ambulance needed! But I should have been take out to the wood shed, for what I did, and how I did it!! I should have had my ask whooped up and down the street, for ignoring the rules, ignoring the dangers, and acting as if it was no issue!! The problem all along was the split fuel pump piece, just like I thought!! No fuel pressure was my indicator!! It was what a based my diagnosis on!! The fuel line connector kit, that I rented from the AUTO MECHANIC FOR A DAY store, worked like it was designed to! And my fuel gauge was working properly!! My HOLIER THAN THOU brain, is what malfunctioned!! The lil piece that depresses the Schrader valve stem, inside the valve on the fitting, had fallen out of my gauge connector, in my tool box!! That's where I found it, after I got back to working on things!! I took my gauge off, and expected fuel to spray out everywhere, AND IT DIDNT!! Not a drop! Nothing on the rag I had used for protection, nothing on the safety glasses that I put on for protection!! Nothing dripped on the piece of paper towel that I used to help soak up any spill!! No fuel up there! So I looked at the connector, and a big hole was the only thing I saw!! I went and looked, and there was the little pusher piece, that had fallen out!! I put it back in, and hooked it back up!! Guess what we had?? PRESSURE!! (in my best singing voice) The truck fired right up, and purred like a kitten!! Or so I was told! My ears were still swollen shut!! So, MAKE SURE YOU REMEMBER TO ACT LIKE A DANGEROUS ACTIVITY, IS A DANGEROUS ACTIVITY!! You're not opening a Christmas present!! You're working on a dangerous piece of equipment, and it CAN AND WILL KILL YOU FASTER THAN YOUR MAMA WILL FOR BACKTALKING HER!! And will hurt even worse than an ass whooping from your daddy, for wrecking his new car!! This is a serious and dangerous business!! Listen to what this man tells you!! People pay him, for what he's telling you for free!! What he says is the GODS HONEST TRUTH!! When he preaches safety, it's for a good reason!!

Thanks Paul and Caleb ☺🔧

The AES Wave U-activate device is backordered (July 2020). Neat tool.

great Job Paul!! your attention to detail is top notch. open honest and humble, i'm really liking that "uActivate"

5th... Now had better watch the video...lol Ok..im back...this needs to be a premium channel video. I love this sort of diagnosis..relays. Trying to trace powers n grounds.far better than doing dirty mechanical stuff.

hillbilly fuel pressure test, have someone "crank it" and screw driver/etc press the schrader valve open. ok, ok, ok, yep old school quick dirt diagnostics. whilst most are fiddling tying to get scan tools to work I am visual scanning and listened with ears as it pulls in :) this is great for the younger folks getting to auto mechanics!

There is not a better guy or girl on YT for car repair info. PERIOD

Here is what I liked about the editing. When u referred to things in the original shoot, he put it in a box and showed us the event being refered to. Very nice. And that tool. U will sell a lot for AES wave. U have 130,000 subscribers that all want that tool. It's a great tool! U only promote good stuff that will help us. I'm sure with Caleb on board, u will be able to put more stuff on You Tube. I'm a premie too. But how many guys would love 130,000 subs!!

Thank you. Your step by step, completely thorough (understatement) approach is so helpful. The depth of your knowledge is evident. Thank you !!! Subscribed !!

i can't find words to thank you with , i gonna come one day to PA to visit you and thank you for all your great perfect informative videos , you are no.1 in youtube auto repair videos with no doubt , thanks once again and special thanks to your son caleb

Thanks Caleb, your questions really trigger great discussion points in your Dad’s videos 👍

Dear Mr. Paul, I just express my love to such a professional investigation work. Thanks a lot. John Jack Kaplanian

Great explanation of how everything works and how to trouble shoot. Im having an issue with my 86 Bronco’s feed to the fuel pump. I have power to the relay. But not from the relay to the pump. I was told it was the EEC. im watching your videos to learn how to check the EEC.

Don’t say I don’t need that tool on camera Paul, my wife might have heard that!

I enjoy soon much in watching your videos Danner you're so comprehensive in detail about everything thing you teach ...been watching your videos for a few years now ..... Just can't get enough watching you work with the technology you have in electronics . I'm one of those that's been slow in the learning skills of electronics now I have advanced myself in a way of going forward because of your teaching with precise patients in giving me the understanding that's been awarding to My life . I can not thank you enough for giving me this gift .

Its good that you had the video of the short on the brake line , At least you don't have to worry about it . nice video

I'm watching your videos and picking my nose for gold hoping that I can come up with enough money to pay for the u activate tool I need to do more electrical diagnostics ...

Kaleb does an excellent job, I love these videos.

Paul, Great video! I have an '89 5.0L HO in my early Fox so I know this circuit well. Thank you and Caleb and God bless Paul

Also grounding pin B on dlc port turns on fan and fuel pump I believe And there's a wire near bat of fuse box to ground to activate pump

Great way to test a crank sensor!! Thank you!!

First of all, check the relay if the pump don't hum. Code testers can check the relay. If the relay don't click, check the relay circuit. Usually, it's the relay. The code tester can give a fuel pump circuit code. Check the fuel pressure, KOEO. Check the codes.

Caleb does an excellent job with the camera and editing. He doesn't leave out your mistakes. lol. Keep up the good work guys. If you can't laugh at yourself , who can you laugh at. :-)

As you say most of the times, some vehicles don't have a prime and some don't provide rpm when cranking. Starting with checking spark would be the ideal place to start to eliminate an input problem. Starting with fuel is good if you know the system has a prime, which would drop when cranking if you have an input problem.

Mr Danner we need more RU-vid videos for the guys who can't afford SDP has yet....thanks in advance

JACK STANDS! Omg dont give into the key board safety Warriors.

Very informative but also very long. Thanks again I watched it all am not English so I didn't really understood all 100%.

Getting ready to work on my dad's 1984 TBird 5.0 EEC IV TFI next week . As always, your videos are excellently done and extremely educational . Thanks for all you do and have done brother .

Another great video, Paul. That old frayed bill - must be your lucky cap.

Hahaha black tape over the CEL,that's hilarious! 😂😂 You're the best Paul,thanks for the video! 👍

TL:DR Acknowledge Paul as a valued human and then a little car stuff. From a comment post by another who knows you I figure your name is Paul not scanner or Danner lol. 2nd comment ever on your channels and rarely on anyones channels. Seriously for a moment, if I may. Your knowledge is fantastic, and your approach fits with the way I think I would do it. Why I am making a comment however is not because of those attributes but the way you show respect to Caleb your son, answering him as you look at him not the camera is a fantastic dad and person. Breaking down the reasons for doing what you are and are not going to do in Real Time is fantastic as we can all take a wrong turn but you show that as well when needed. Caleb pointing out the Check engine light is under tape lol young eyes are fantastic as I have found with my Son. Crank signal might actually be the answer I am looking for as the car is dual fuel e.g. Dual fuel car - petrol and Gas (Liquid Petroleum Gas - LPG in Australia) 1997 vintage EL Ford Fairmont Ghia. When you start with checking fuel line pressure and point out the dangers as does your son Caleb in the background and then responding to Caleb when he mentions your other son Jake and suggest you will or in this case Caleb will post a link in the right hand side of the screen, and as a typical dad point out to Caleb it is on your right but your pointing left lol. Yes I get it. Teaching your son warmed my heart as the respect shown is fantastic. Going on to "shamelessly" plug a product called aeswave made me laugh given all the background posters on the walls. And then admit you connected the wrong adapter was just fantastic. If I was a mechanic, I would purchase that equipment as I know you would only say it because you believe it. The end of the video where you show a possible separate reason for the faults even one you may have caused meant it may return but for other reasons and explaining the cct diagram may be incorrect based on other tests off camera I suspect. I know most of what I have written is not directly to do with the car but I just had to highlight that you are more than "just a guy fixing stuff" you are a guy that comes across as respecting everyone you come in contact with and others that don't connect I'm sure you also respect them. Thanks for the free channel and the in-depth information and the way you present it. I have knowledge but you help me grow which I then share with people I am helping. The helping cycle if used with great intention makes our world a much better place. BTW I am an Atheist just for full disclosure. I respect other people's choices when not harmful to life. Damian.

ScannerDanner's videos are just so entertaining to watch. He explains stuff very well.

at the beginning i am saying it is more than likely the fuel cut off switch usually found the the passenger floor board. if you look at your diagram you will find the inertia switch

Thanks Caleb, your edits really set your visuals apart, some of this stuff is hard to follow, those shared screens are great!

Paul, top drawer video as always!!!!!!!!!!! The only other issue I have seen as I am sure you have, is a fuel pump that does draw current and makes noise and has no fuel pressure, but the pump can be very quite and only audible standing directly under the tank or with a stethoscope. Keep the videos coming!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks for this diagnosis still a lot of the EEC-IV Fords here in WV

when you've been watching videos for 6 hours and needa sleep but proper diagnosis knowledge is more important

You can cheat when testing most relays by checking the horn to see if it works. If so in many cases you can remove the relay in question and replace with the horn relay or other non necessary circuit having to do with your issue. Headlight etc. Check the numbers on the relay to make sure they are the same before doing so.

If fuel pump runs when in the run position....but fuel pressure drops when cranking, it can also be a leaking fuel pressure regulator. Have fixed those in the past. Not always a wiring or electronic issue.

Thank you ScannerDanner and Caleb it's a 100 % good

Thanks 📷 man Caleb. Great job my young sir.

Forgot about 1 other thing. One reason we would get these fords towed in was the inertia switch in the truck. Opened the trunk one time and the customer had a bowling ball rolling around in there. Save you tons of time to check that first when you have no fuel

I use my u actavate and scope on every fuel pump even with good pressure i have found several bad pumps

Awesome work brother..the reason as to why that fuse blew would have drove me crazy until i found what caused it to blow.. just to find out I may have caused it to ground out on the brake line...lol.. Yeah man you most definitely are a good dude man that was a great concern for you and I understand..I wouldn't have been able to sleep at night for worrying about why that fuse blew... I swear some of this stuff will have u scratching your head.. that's when u walk away, rest up,then jump back in..God Bless you my friend.. Damn good job

I always love the videos I learn so much. I just miss the days Danner didnt cuss and I could watch all of them with my kids.

Just a heads up, you can pull EEC-IV codes using just a jumper wire and a test light, I can't remember exactly how to do it off the top of my head, but have done it before on my old 88 F150

I got a power probe 3 with the ECT3000 circuit tracer. It is the next step up circuit tracer than you have. I love the thing it is awesome

I have a Ford Focus, I will see if the check engine light goes out, while cranking, how awesome .. I was going to do the back probe test.

Great Video brother! As always thank you for your thoroughness and spreading your knowledge. You’re a phenomenal teacher. Soon as I’m finished with active duty , I’m applying for rosedale tech. Hopefully I’ll get accepted 🤞🏾

Thank you Paul and your son for creating this video even though I don't have the tool like (asaewave) I really learned so much just watching and listning to it....thanks again and God bless

Love that U-Activate tool been using that for a while now thanks for showing this. I ordered that tool after watching one of your videos some time ago.

Long video i have no time to learn but nice story mechanic life keep on going 🤟

still the best show out there.

maybe ignition coil primary starting to fail/short, the ignition module getting silly, someone in passenger seat stomping the inertia switch wires/water leak corroded, someone else fiddled around testing and blew it! but most likely the person cranked and cranked until the fuse blew. I think they had increased current/spark duration when cranking for easier cold starts. similar to non electronic ignition with the resistor bypassed when cranking :)

Was on the fence about the u active decided thru your videos it's a must you haven't let me down yet

Nice Paul. Thanks for chasing down that blown fuse.

Good discovery and also some honesty from you on the possible short while first debugging the relays... nice follow up.

Frame 47:47 I knew you were thinking that you might have a problem due to a long crank, just by the look you gave 😀😂 But na man, your the best dude!! 👍😀

Paul....Please use the powerprobe in feed test mode, its better than a test light, it loads the circuit the same. powerprobe need to start paying me or sending me some free stuff for telling everyone this lol!

The tapping of forehead that really makes it ...thanks Paul!