Thanks for the kind words. I wish I knew of a better lube and I occasionally try something new. The trouble is it isn't a controlled experiment so you don't really know. The T9 seems pretty good.
@@jazbuilding I just went out after watching your video, and used some Sea Foam Deep Creep on my running boards, and they loosened up nicely. We'll see how long it lasts though. I'm going to order some Boeshield T-9 to help it even further.
I live and work in wet, and super cold climates and ive use PB Blaster mostly cause i can get it for free at work. Its fairs ok and i have to usual lube it up at least once a month throughout the winter. I may just start using motor oil in a squirt bottle since i usually have a bit left over from oil changes and see how that holds up. Although it may be a huge dirt magnet 🤷♂️
My climate isn't so bad and last year's winter was pretty mild so it wasn't a big deal for me. I think motorcycle chain lubes would likely fare well and Project Farm looked at some which seemed to stick impressively. Another viewer recommended mud flaps, which I think might help as well. Motor oil may be pretty good, as that's what the woodworkers of the past (some of them) would use for the internal gearing of table saws, which is a very dusty environment. If you try it out let us know.
the best you can use is motorcycle chain lube. just be sure its not a chain wax, must be chain lube. and it works like a gold. many months without repeating it.
Thanks for the comment. I've been looking at that. Is there one you recommend? I believe Project Farm looked at some of them and put them on a chain saw (the chain of course). He spun the blade to get an idea of how well some of them stuck. Some times even when lubricated the running board operates slowly like there's still a lot of friction, so I still think you need a penetrating type of lube to work into the joints. Then I wonder how well a thick lubricant would stick to the penetrating one? Thanks again.
I used chain lube also, it'll last a very long time probably the best thing to use. If their really bad get some good penetrating fluid first before putting chain lube on. I was going to take my running boards off to clean them on my work bench but the nuts and bolts that hold the brackets to the truck both just spin so their on their for good.
@@milesfifer171 Thanks for the comment. Yes, I think a good chain lube may be better than what I'm doing. I think I'll stick with the T-9 and put a chain lube over it.
Thanks for the comment. I recently tried PB Blaster before the nasty weather came and it didn't last well for me. Again, not a definitive experiment, but I was disappointed. I'll probably try it again in the future. I also experimented with Fluid Film and don't have an opinion yet. The other issue is as it gets older the wear increases and it's more likely to bind because of that. Thanks for the ideas.
@@jazbuildingI think no matter what kind of oil the problem will be the tires always throw up slush and salt directly in joint. I don't have mud flaps...yet, but I'm thinking that should help a lot. Also, I saw another U-tuber's technique is to spray WD first, then blow air onto all joints, then he puts the water proof spray in after that. I know those joints are very tight, and just hand spraying oil into the joints doesn't always immediately get lubricate deep inside. The air blowing might be helpful...that is if it doesn't make one whale of a mess!!
I agree. I've seen the guy blowing the air and that's not a good fit for me. These mechanisms (OEM) are very expensive to boot. That's why I posted the video, trying to circle in on the best products for this job. Thanks again. @@mikemurphy7711
@@jazbuilding Like I said in previous reply about trying splash guards, well now I've put a set of Weather Tech guards made specifically for the Expedition on, they were a breeze to install in the garage, without any drilling!! Just tested them in slushy wet road conditions (50 mile trip) and the side boards were "DRY", and continued functioning as normal. Whereas before just one trip out in the wet snowy conditions would bog motor down with crap all over it, and wetness. Best thing is the guards do not detract any from appearances and look like their meant to be. So now there's no excuse! once lubricated, sideboard will stay DRY!
Wow, thanks for the update. Even it it just increases the time between service it would be a win since it's such a nuisance to clean and lube these things. Thanks again. As it stands now, I do it 5 or 6 times per year. @@mikemurphy7711
Thanks for reaching out, and no, I have not tried power washing. I don't own one and don't think I'd have the patience to wait for it to dry. I used the WD-40 as a "wash" of sorts. It's supposed to displace water which would be a benefit in this situation. There have been times when the underside didn't look too cruddy, I skipped the WD-40 and went straight to the T-9. That seemed OK. It's been suggested to add mud flaps and use a chain lube, both of which I think are good ideas. I'm trying to decide which chain lube would be best. Thanks again for the comment.
@@10cobra03 Ugh; that's a shame. Our passenger side unit doesn't need nearly the level of attention that the driver's side does. Just a guess, but maybe it's a sensor issue and possibly an affordable fix? Good luck and let us know how it turns out.
