Thanks for the comment and I'm not inclined to take it apart unless I have to. In hind site, I wish I'd recorded my exploration, but it's messy to do it real time because you're making it up as you go and trying a bit of this and a dash of that. It ends up being difficult to edit together into a flowing video. This video was kind of choppy but I did my best. In any case it takes a little guts to push and pry hard enough to get the clasps to release cleanly. As in my case, even if you break a tab or two it will still screw together and work fine. Good luck and thanks again.

@@jazbuilding Ah, good point. With my husband's help and confidence of pulling it apart from the bottom as you suggested, we got it done! Thank you!

Thanks for the note.

Thanks for the comment. Yes, a chisel could be used for this particular task. Cheers and thanks again.

Thanks for reaching out. I made a chamfer fence (video coming) using magnets for attachment. The magnets hold the plane to the fence very well in the sense you can't pull the fence off the plane without considerable force. However, the fence can slide on the plane easily enough which was a problem with the chamfer plane. I originally put stops to prevent the back and forth sliding motion, but the plane could slide up off the fence making it difficult to use. I then used my pin originally made for the jointer fence to hold it down. This may not be an issue (the plane sliding or lifting) for a jointing fence, per se but be aware. From my own experience, it's easy to take an edge out of square while planing, so I think it's worth having a fence for those times when there's substantial material to remove. Thanks again.

Thanks for the comment and hopefully you'll get around to affecting the repair. No guarantees the pin may not jam in there, making it very difficult to get apart. Cheers.

Thanks for the comment and thanks. I don't use it much, but I do use it when it's appropriate. How much use anyone else would get depends on the type of work you do. Thanks again.

Thanks for the comment and you're welcome. I'm glad you enjoyed it.

Thanks for leaving a note. Others have said theirs was repairable, so I'm not sure if I got a bad one, or one made the wrong year or the other guy was just lucky. The battery on my new headset doesn't seem to last as long as that of the old one, however it's just an opinion and not measured. My old one seemed to go many days before needing a charge where this one is only a day of two of my typical usage. Either way they're not overtly expensive and I may very well have spent 40 - 60% of a new one to replace the battery in the old one. Thanks again for the comment.

Thanks for the comment. I'm not sure how long the tap trick will work. If it jams you're back in the bind so you probably want to fix it sooner than later. Thanks again.

Gee-wiz, it's a crazy world we live in. Thanks for the comment.

I presume you're talking about the table saw, and I don't think I've ever unplugged a table saw to change the blade. Thanks for the comment.

Glad I could help. Thanks for the comment.

You welcome ​@@jazbuilding

Thanks for the comment and good luck with it. I use mine quite a bit and like it. It's a nice little plane that's easy to use and adjust as you go. I don't hesitate to plunge the iron for a deeper cut, knowing I can easily back it off when needed. Thanks again.

Thanks for the comment and the tip.

Thanks, but I don't know what this means.

Thanks for the comment, but I don't understand.

Thanks for letting us know and yours is a great example of what I'm talking about. I believe Stanley made most Wards Masters, but I may be mistaken. I'm also under the impression some are better than others, meaning the older ones may be a bit more Bailey like than the newer ones. Either way I'm not surprised you turned them into great users. Thanks for sharing.

Thanks for reaching out, and no, I have not tried power washing. I don't own one and don't think I'd have the patience to wait for it to dry. I used the WD-40 as a "wash" of sorts. It's supposed to displace water which would be a benefit in this situation. There have been times when the underside didn't look too cruddy, I skipped the WD-40 and went straight to the T-9. That seemed OK. It's been suggested to add mud flaps and use a chain lube, both of which I think are good ideas. I'm trying to decide which chain lube would be best. Thanks again for the comment.

Unfortunately my passenger side is permanently stuck down now. I think the motor went bad. Doesn’t even move anymore.

@@10cobra03 Ugh; that's a shame. Our passenger side unit doesn't need nearly the level of attention that the driver's side does. Just a guess, but maybe it's a sensor issue and possibly an affordable fix? Good luck and let us know how it turns out.

Thanks for the comment and I'm glad it helped. When mine acted up I couldn't find any information which is why I made the video. Cheers.

Thanks for the comment and I'm glad it helped.

Thanks for the comment and I'm glad it worked out for you. Which adapter did you end up getting? Did it need modifying like mine? Thanks again.

Yea, that shmoo can be a real pain. Thanks for the comment.

Thanks for the comment. The link to the historic catalogs is: drive.google.com/drive/folders/1E3aRXfkLYIbQUXsq2tDdfZOWCppMQguw The kidney shaped hole on the lever cap is a Bailey feature and I'm not aware it ever showed up on the Defiance planes (it may have). The type study is specifically for Stanley Bailey #4's and is a reasonable guide for other Bailey plane sizes (2-8). My Defiance is a good user and a nice tool (machine?) in my shop.

Thanks for asking. I don't remember how I found what I believe was a replacement battery but it was straight forward. I believe I searched something like "3M Worktunes Connect battery" and found some part numbers. Then searching the part numbers lead to Amazon/eBay sites which showed pictures of what appeared to be replacements. The pieces looked to be the right size/shape and had the appropriate connector (at least in the pictures) I think it was around $22 or so. Since I didn't actually buy it, I have no records and don't know if I had located the correct ones but I was confident enough at the time that I would have purchased it. I hope this helps and wish you luck. Maybe if you find the right one you can post it here in the comments for others? Thanks again for reaching out.

Glad the video helped (at least a bit). Others have said the charging port has come loose on them as well, although it's not a problem I've had. Hopefully it's an easy fix. My first pair lasted a very long time. My 2nd pair is fine, but it takes a second or two longer to connect and shut off compared to the first one. Thanks for commenting and good luck.

Thanks for the comment. Sure the plastic will eventually fatigue and fail, but it's held for 5 years with moderate to light use. The kit is heavy with many pieces in a small footprint which is why I like it. I wanted a rust free solution so plastic and stainless steel screws were the choice. Part of the reason I used so many is that I wasn't sure how well the screws would grab and hold the case, but it's held well. The case is not perfectly flat and the plastic conforms a bit to the face. Plastic is pretty tough. See how many times you have to flex a blank from a milk jug before it tears. Modern coolers (made of plastic) often have a plastic hinge that simply flexes like this. I personally didn't want to turn it into a major project. It's worked well and I may be able to affect 3 such repairs for amount of effort you're describing for perhaps a more permanent fix. Thanks again for sharing your thoughts and cheers.

Any time and thanks for the comment.

Thanks for the question and I agree it sure looks a bit unusual. I got the error long before my mechanic saw it and I trust him so I don't believe there was any deception. He said the wire was just long enough to span a gap and our theory is that during some operation (maybe hard acceleration?) the engine would move slightly on its mounts and put more strain on the wire. I believe the copper may have work hardened at the point they exit the connector or simply that's where the most strain and flexing occurs. In any case that's where it broke and I'm happy the error on the dash board was unusual enough it caused me to leave the vehicle parked till I got it to my mechanic. I could have certainly been stranded somewhere. The truck is/was about 4 years old and maybe 40K miles, so it took some time for it to fail. Thanks again.

Yes, and thanks for the comment. That seems to be the consensus, that it's used with a hack saw to cut small metal pieces. I wasn't aware till I posted the video, but one person said he saw one used by a guy who made screens from aluminum channels, etc.

Wow that's a great story and thanks for sharing. timetestedtools says the 1243 and 1244 were scrub planes, which is something I didn't know till your comment made me do a bit more research, so thanks for that. The original price tag is a real piece of history, I hope you saved it and I'd love to see what that looked like. That price makes me re-think my video, which was largely conjecture, but not too far off. Thanks for the comment and cheers.

@@jazbuilding keep up the great work and thank you for the content.

@@MikeTitus-dh9ox Thanks for the kind words. It takes a lot of work and time to put these videos together, so it's nice receive feedback that people are appreciating them.

Thanks for the comments. There are old woodworking machine websites around. One is vintagemachinery.org. I've found user manuals for such things as my craftsman jointer, etc. Good luck going forward and I'm glad the information I gave may help. It's a shame that it's so hard to find parts for equipment that's so common. Every dad had a Craftsman table saw from the 50's through 70's so there's a ton of them out there. Generally they're built quite sturdy compared to today's. My saw is not great but serves me well. Thanks again.

Thanks for asking. I don't remember how I found what I believe was a replacement battery but it was straight forward. I believe I searched something like "3M Worktunes Connect battery" and found some part numbers. Then searching the part numbers lead to Amazon/eBay sites which showed pictures of what appeared to be replacements. The pieces looked to be the right size/shape and had the appropriate connector (at least in the pictures) I think it was around $22 or so. Since I didn't actually buy it, I have no records and don't know if I had located the correct ones but I was confident enough at the time that I would have purchased it. I hope this helps and wish you luck. Maybe if you find the right one you can post it here in the comments for others? Thanks again for reaching out.

Thanks for asking. My battery was fine (at least so far and it's been a while). The error shows up not because there's a problem with the battery but the charging/electrical system, etc. Seems like a poor design on my vehicle that the wires are so short, but at least it's not a super expensive fix. Good luck with yours.

Thanks for the kind words. I'm a member of a couple Facebook groups that are a good resource for me. There's practically one for every area of interest. I frequent "Stanley Tool Collectors & Users" and belong to several others and I'm sure there about a gazillion more that would spark my interest if I had the time. I have a bunch of planes and find the #4's and bigger are the ones I typically reach for. For more detailed work, I reach for block planes. Then I use spoke shaves and scrapers as appropriate. I do occasionally reach for #3, but it's typically for a sharp iron. They're just a bit small for me. Baileys are a safe bet but I find all my planes (many of them secondary brands/lines) work just a well. For that reason I'd caution against spending too much for any plane. I hope this helps and thanks again for leaving the comment.

Thanks for the comment. I use mine often, but only at my desk which is why I suppose the 1st pair lasted so long. Too bad they're not more serviceable, but they're not terribly pricey either.

Thanks for the comment. Yes, there are many ways to solve all these problems. That's the cool part of the community is you can see the various solutions and decide which is best for you. Take care.

Thanks for the intel.

What's your problem dude?

I guess there's just no pleasing some people. Cheers.

Thanks for the comment and you're welcome. It's always nice to know someone out there got something out of it. Thanks again.

Thanks for the comment. I've been looking at that. Is there one you recommend? I believe Project Farm looked at some of them and put them on a chain saw (the chain of course). He spun the blade to get an idea of how well some of them stuck. Some times even when lubricated the running board operates slowly like there's still a lot of friction, so I still think you need a penetrating type of lube to work into the joints. Then I wonder how well a thick lubricant would stick to the penetrating one? Thanks again.

I used chain lube also, it'll last a very long time probably the best thing to use. If their really bad get some good penetrating fluid first before putting chain lube on. I was going to take my running boards off to clean them on my work bench but the nuts and bolts that hold the brackets to the truck both just spin so their on their for good.

@@milesfifer171 Thanks for the comment. Yes, I think a good chain lube may be better than what I'm doing. I think I'll stick with the T-9 and put a chain lube over it.

So he's the one?! Now we know who to blame. It is funny. The guy on the Plane Collector channel often commented in his videos how every old plane seems to have specs of white paint on them. It may not be every one but it is an awful lot of them. Thanks for the comment.

Thanks for the comment and questions. Yes, I could be the victim of 3rd party gouging or predatory rate. I don't know for sure. We certainly never knowingly signed up for any such plans. I receive my bill from the utility and it's got lots of charges and fees on it so part of the answer is in your question. You're only talking about supply and delivery. We pay a generation service charge, revenue decoupling charge, renewable charge, along with generation and distribution, transition and transmission, distributed solar, customer charge and an energy efficiency charge. All of these but one are tied to KwHr consumed. I'd be willing to bet they're not on the "official" electricity rate as reported to whoever or whatever it's reported to. My guess would be that they only report the generation and distribution as the "official" rate. As I said in the video, I simply take the dollars and divide it by the KwHr. Thanks again.

Thanks for asking. I haven't worked with joules in some 20 years, and most heating systems around me (fuel based anyway) deal with btu. (Welcome to America) I do what's comfortable for me, but the same calculations with joules and Deutschmarks should give the same ratios. Take care and thanks again.

Thanks. although, Deutschmarks are no more, make that Euro, and i don't live there. close though, NL.

Thanks for the comment. You make Missouri sound like an affordable place to live. It's nice to see others out there taking the time to do a calculation or two. Go Chiefs and cheers.

Sorry to hear. Did they break or just stop working? Sounds like you got a particularly bad one. Thanks for the comment.

I decided to take them back to the store as I had them less than 6 months and barely used. They exchanged them with a new pair. I really like how they work. @@jazbuilding

Thanks for the kind words and that's a great bunch of questions. Perhaps I should have spent some time on that but the answers, however would take a number of videos all on their own. To answer your question; my understanding is that it is absolutely the heat that drives the car. It's the heat from the combustion that forces the gasses to expand and do the work. The btu content in the fuel is definitely a way to measure forces of the combustion. It may seem counter-intuitive, but it's the right way to think of it. Heat is sort of the universal unit of energy and is perhaps it's simplest form. When I had physics way back in college and we described internal combustion engines as heat engines. Understanding the heat profile helped you understand the way the engine produced power and work. Calories in food are a way to quantify heat. One calorie is defined as the heat required to raise a liter of water 1 degree celsius. When you stop your car, the kinetic energy (the motion or rolling down the road) is turned into heat in your brakes. Think about that all the energy to stop a 2 ton car from 60 miles/hour is accomplished by heating your brake rotors. To your other question; we can (and to a point do) use heating oil to fuel cars (sort of). When I was a boy, home heating oil was the same as diesel fuel and today there's only subtle differences. Jet fuel is essentially kerosene, etc. Gasoline could certainly be used to heat a house if you had the right furnace/boiler, etc. Propane can heat a house, and power a generator, fork lift, automobile, etc. I know it's kind of a weird way to think of it since we tend to put one fuel in our machines but the heat content is something you care about if you have choices. If you go to the EPA website and look at the fuel economy estimates, the E85 (85% ethanol) numbers are pathetic compared to gasoline. One F150 went from 18 combined (gasoline) to 14 with E85 (that's about 25%). E90 (10% ethanol which is everywhere I live) only has about 95% of the heat content as pure gasoline, so one can expect 5% reduction in fuel economy as a result. I don't mean to go on too long and certainly don't want to seem rude, but this is a topic that volumes have been written on. I hope this help and thanks again for reaching out. Maybe I'll put together a video on this topic.

Thanks for reaching out. I gave this information a while back and here's what I said back then. I'm not sure how well it may apply today (but it should): My model is 116.21714111. I searched for the parts diagrams for this vacuum and found it on a couple sites (searspartsdirect.com and others). There are a few parts diagrams for this machine, and this part is on the Hose page. Mine is part number #KC13DDKNZMUH. I'd recommend you do the same search to be sure. I was fortunate a local vacuum repair shop had it in stock cheaper than what I found on the web and I was able to pick it up the same day. I hope this helps and good luck.

Thanks for the comment, but I think the plastic is more durable than you're giving it credit. These types of plastics are fairly firm on the flat, but form a though yet resilient joint along a fold. I'd guess it's closer to a few thousand (maybe one hundred thousand?) folds. I'm sure it will eventually fatigue and break, but it's been doing well going on 5 or 6 years now. Of course I don't use it a lot, maybe once a month these days. Plastic also won't decay. I'm not familiar with world of leather and leather working to know how suitable it would be but I'll take our word for it. It would certainly be more expensive than a laundry detergent jug destined for the recycle bin. Thanks for the idea and cheers.

I tried a piano hinge but it was not fitting properly for storage. Just re did the entire hinge using duct tape. so far so good.