Ford Explorer Ranger 4.0L SOHC Startup Rattle Fix: Timing Walkthrough Pt 3 of 4 Engine Timing 

These are the Tools and Parts I Recommend: Timing Special Tool Kit- amzn.to/2Jp2UdW Good Aftermarket Timing Kits- With Balance Shaft- amzn.to/2QfmqfN Without Balance Shaft- amzn.to/2SGWTxn Torque Specifications and Sequences: Camshafts- drive.google.com/file/d/1QFKsJY5hWh9kzVVsYwS_SdmNjHQGo5q2/view?usp=sharing

All I can say is thank you!!!! I’m a professional diesel mechanic and this walk through saved me several hours of time reading the manual and looking up torque specs. Incredibly detailed and on a professional level. Again thank you so much

I just finished this project! Thanks so much for the video guide! Your video and the Cloyes video have been an IMMENSE help. Tips for other amateurs like me tackling it: -Get the Ford timing tool, don't be a fool. You can save a couple bucks getting the Daimond Power toolkit instead of OTC. -Get a couple tables to hold your tools, because you will need a LOT of tools. -Motor mount bolts that go into the engine block are really easily accessed from the wheel wells, as are the spark plug wires. -The three passenger side bolts can be accessed relatively easily from above the engine after the intake is removed. However; you will absolutely need a long handled thin, fine tooth,flex head ratchet. - You don't absolutely need to remove the EGR tube. I didn't because it was so rusted on that the only way it was coming off was with a cutting torch. -Mark all your electrical connectors. -Mark the position of your torque converter-to-flywheel-to-crankshaft spacer- to-crankshaft . Paints pens are great, and silver sharpies work too. -IF your engine has NOT lost timing, you don't need to remove the camshafts (although I'm not disputing that you should). -Make sure you position your engine on the stand (Like FordTechMakuloco) so that you can easily reach the back of the engine. -You do not need a vice grip slide hammer if you can't find one. Go to AutoZone, rent their 5lb slide hammer, and tack weld a 5/8-18 nut onto an M12 bolt. You can simply thread the nut onto the slide hammer. -When removing the old rear/passenger jackshaft sprocket, FordTechMakuloco recommends separating the sprocket from the chain. Remember that for installation; drop the chain in first, then slip in the sprocket. -Because my guides had not completely broken yet, I did not have a ton of plastic floating around. My issue was that the main timing chain tensioner (Crankshaft to Jackshaft) has lost it's spring, allowing the chain to slap around. Due to this, I did NOT remove the jackshaft. In order to get the driver side cassette in, I used a wooden dowel to lightly tap the cassette past the cylinder casting. -If you accidentally break the rear (passenger) cassette upper bolt (the one that goes through the bushing) you can easily tap the bolt remnants out of the bushing and use any regular M6x1.0 bolt that is long enough. Space the bolt out with washers if you cannot fit your socket into the cassette. -Go on eBay and purchase an aluminum thermostat housing. The plastic ones, even Motorcraft, are total junk. Putting the upper radiator hose on before the intake makes things MUCH easier. -I feel like on some of the small bolts, it's safer to snug them up with a 1/4" ratchet than using a torque wrench. Even though my inch-lb torque wrench was on the right setting for the upper driver-side cassette bolt, it still broke it. If I had followed my gut on how tight it should feel, I would have been saved a lot of grief. -This job took me, an amateur (first time I've pulled an engine) a total of about 28 working hours (I did it in 2 days). I have impacts and electric ratchets that sped everything up a LOT. -Get a couple tables to hold your tools, because you will need a LOT of tools. -It will help immensely to have someone assist you with putting the engine back in. You need to line up the two dowels on the engine block AND the torque converter studs to the flywheel. The latter is a real bitch to do. One person adjusting the engine position and turning it over and one person below the vehicle making sure the studs line up is a great help. -The exhaust will get in the way when reinstalling the engine. Helps to pull it downward and jack the transmission up a bit. -You don't need to have an impact wrench, but you really, really kind of do. I recommend a 1/4" impact driver, 3/8 electric ratchet, and 1/2" impact wrench. -This job will kick your ass, and nothing is super "hard", it just takes a LONG ASS TIME and lots of meticulous labeling, checking, adjusting, ect.

One of the best how-to's I've seen. Great camera angles, explanations and detail. Good show, my friend. Too bad not many will get use of it, being not many will bother doing a job this big on anything with the 4.0 SOHC in it.

Haha... when I needed this to be done the DEALERSHIP didn't even want to touch it! Bear in mind I am from South Africa... Sooo, I studied to become a SOHC engineer via RU-vid, and did my own. I have 3 of these engines in 3 Rangers, and I can do it with my eyes closed! Made my own special tools etc. Now I do a timing rebuild for anyone. Biggest problem here is parts, expensive as hell. Ebay helps a lot but that takes 3 weeks from the States.. And no, I don't want anything else. Probably the best built trucks of its generation locally! May the Ford be with you.

I've found a very excellent way to fix this problem actually, I've owned one. First, you make sure the fluids are full. Then, you clean the interior. Finally you drive it in your yard. Lastly, you put a for sale sign in it.

Your videos are clear and precise. Probably the best Ford videos on this channel. Enjoy all of them. 👍👍

dude your are the man..overhauling my engine with this vid has made it super easy

Thanks for this video series. I’m a dealer tech who had to replace the LH cylinder head on this engine and found the information in workshop manual left me with many questions. Nobody else in my shop could give me the answers to my questions either. This video series had me prepared for what I was going to see in doing this job and a clear understanding so that the job would go smoothly. Thanks so much!

This is one of the best how to videos out there. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.

That is crazy how many special tools you need to time this engine.

I did the job about 3 years ago was big challenge for me i wish you video was in RU-vid channel. At the time you video are Awesome Man. you are very professional. I learned from you i lot Thank so much

You make it look so easy. If I ever had to work on one of these engines my neighbors would hate me with all the swearing and throwing things lol. Magnets are definitely your best friends here

Just completed this after watching all of your videos ( and a few others) about this job. All is complete and my old Mountaineer is back on the road. Many thanks and many bloody knuckles, liked and subscribed.

One very complicated engine to assemble. Thanks for putting together an excellent tutorial. Very informative, clearly shown and easily understood. 👏

His videos Helped me diagnose which helped fix my parents Ford Taurus transmission issue with the torque converter failure. Good mechanic

Watching this rebuild has been very relaxing

Thank you for the great, detailed look at the 4.0SOHC motor. I wonder how many of the engines have had to get this done. My 2004 Ranger has this engine, but I baby it, and it has been very reliable and good to me. Keep up the great work! 😁

I recently had the 4.0 grenade itself without warning 3 hours from home in my Sport Trac. I recently had replaced inner and outer tie rods, upper control arms, tires, alternator, transmission cooler hard lines (rusted through), trans filter and fluid, shock absorbers, front hub assembies....had I known about this timing design flaw I wouldn't have spent another dime on this $1500 ford. I drove a 2000 Town Car to get home, and it nearly caught on fore 2 days later due to a brake pedal switch design flaw (not the "burn your house down while you sleep cruise control switch recall either!) Gotta love Ford! Anyway, my daughter paid $4500 (too much but that is the local market here) for an 06 Exploder with same miles. I think I hear the timing rattle, How much would it cost to have the timing done, I assume more than the vehicl is worth with 175,000 miles? Needs rear wheel bearings etc., just replaced cracked thermostat housing with an aluminum one.

Ty very much for your four part series couldnt of done job without your help.

I think some Audi engineers went to work at Ford.

I'm wondering if some threadlock on the new jackshaft bolt would be an extra precausion since my original one came loose. Great video!

I don’t own a Ford but because this video is so clear and concise I watched it and shared it with a friend who has an explorer with this motor. I wish you did BMW videos for late 90’s to mid 2000 vehicles. Great video!

About to do this job on my 2006 ford courier (ranger) in australia Brilliant how to vid mate.

Love your video on this truck I came here because I looked up torque specks from 3 different places and got 3 different answers watched a dozen videos but yours was the best I have seen in details and no bsing around.

If you see this. Thanks for the long ass videos. A LOT of information. I make small short videos but for someone to do a video like u in 4 pcs takes experience and a lot of dedication. I don't see why people give it a thumbs down. I was looking to buying a 2 door explorer and I'm wondering if I'll ever do this. Good job man. Best wishes.

I firmly believe there is a special place in hell for engiineers. I'm so glad I sold the 99 explorer.

Don't forget to check the oil pressure restrictor rod for build up, GREAT VIDEO!!!!!

For those who may feel unsure about the timing when they get done, a compression whistle would be good tool to use to check the firing order before you install the engine. Gives good piece of mind.

Thanks so much for taking the time to produce another fantastic video. Big thumbs up!!

Super detailed procedure! Thanks Brian!

Just noticed the RU-vid Award on your wall, nice! I have a 4.0L SOHC Engine so this video series is so valuable! Great Video!!!

This may seem like a stupid question but, Why the hell would they use plastic parts inside an engine? especially in such a high friction application?

Greatest video on timing these things I've seen yet. Awesome work!! Ive owned several of these but maticulously maintained them so Ive never had to experience this nonsense.

Gracias amigo , estoy muy agradecido por todos los videos que compartiste , me ayudaron en todo momento , seguí todas las instrucciones que das y logré reparar el motor de mi Ford Explorer 2003 , nunca había hecho algo así , es más no soy mecánico , solo soy una persona que se atrevió para aprender , mil gracias ahora mi carro quedó como nuevo y sigue funcionando muy bien , espero que sigas compartiendo todo tu conocimiento , ya que eso es lo que hace personas valiosas como vos , bendiciones 👍🏼👍🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼

Probably one of the most important notes for this timing project is to PRE-PRIME the chain tensioners prior to install. They are spring and hydraulic function. They do not self prime very well if installed dry.

This is a wonderful guide to use as you go. Only one question comes to mind after watching it. If the roller follower tool doesn't work on the ends, How do you get those back in after the re-install of the camshaft? Back to neutral, then what? If you can't compress the spring on breakdown. How do you do it on install?

3 years ago I followed this video. I bought the stuff now it’s 2x as much. But the timing chain cassettes and guides fell apart again. this is a great video. So I’m doing it again. I had bought Cloyes kit. But one mistake I made I mixed up the tensioners and installed the right rear on the left front and vice versa. Maybe this was the reason. But I’m following this video again. Thank you for the video.

This is the best one i found . Thank you for everything. I will subscribe

Very talented GOOD JOB THANKS

Watched all 4 of the videos on this SOHC and am glad I found them. I am starting on my 98' explorer and would have screwed it up if not for our videos. Fantastic information!

What I find really cute is that the 4.0 never really had much of anything wrong with it, except that it required much more frequent oil changes. Mine was totaled in a crash at around 420k miles with the original timing components. I religiously changed the oil at 2500-2800 intervals, and almost never used synthetic oil. My oil of choice was the regular Quaker State 5w30. The truck did eventally develop a light cold start rattle around 250k though, but still got 19+ mpg (21 mpg with the front cranked down to 32" fender height!). We had another Explorer that had 381k on it when we sold it off. It had no issues with the timing components either. Both were 1999 Explorers.

This makes the 5.4 3v a walk in the park.

Buddy you saved my ass. I followed you through step by step throughout the whole process. I still can't believe the complication of the timing on the 4.0!!!! I was doing research and found out that this is a German engineered motor. Mabey that's why it's NOT like any other timing? Anyway, thank you brother. I have a 2005 Ford Explorer and a 2012 F250 6.2 so I subscribed to your channel.

Great instructional video, thank you for guiding me through it. One thing I feel mentioning is the RH cartridge upper bolt needs to snap in the groove. I had it outside the groove, and when I went to tighten the cam sprocket bolt, I noticed the chain was only riding on half of the cartridge. No big deal, but if you miss this the chain could damage the cartridge.

everyone thinking of buying a ford should watch this video

Man talk about patience and a job well done. If that was my ranger it would've went to the scrapper because forget all that

Whoever came up with this design needs to be put away

Outstanding video. I had a 1997 Explorer SOHC. Never had to do this. Don't remember the mileage when I got it, had 190,000 when I shipped it off to donation. It still ran well but needed coolant temp sensors. I actually had gotten parts but didn't want to mess with it. Good vehicle until then. THe electric door locks failed-- annoying to lock all 4 doors and the rear. Had a drain that killed the battery. Looked like it was directing me to some modules so i installed a knife switch isolating the battery when it sat for several days, (DIY owners have to learn these tricks)

Thanks for doing these videos man.

When do you put your rollers back in ?

It took me 10 min to fix with Ford rattle fix kit.

I'm in Brazil setting up an explorer 2008 your video is helping me a lot

Excellent videos, explained the process very well!!

Fordtechmakuloco did you have to replace all front sprockets =jackshaft -crank-balancer ?? Melling 3-398S kit states all new oe style sprockets must be used due to 2mm shift of centerline over the yrs or will cause timing system failure? Thanks

Great series!

How do you check if valves hit the head mine slipped a few teeth and I'm worried about bent valves

Great video, what would also be helpful is to include links to the other parts on the decription area so people don't go searching for the other parts of this process. Great job!!

very detail oriented professional videos with lots of time editing video i'm sure. Thank you for providing these tutorials very helpful! Much appreciated!

Excellent video. Great in depth explanation of aligning the components.

Great video. Got my head straight and walked me through this pretty easy. Not much info about the fine details on these motors out there

You are the man. Great videos. Wish I could afford for you to swap my ranger motor.

They should have kept this an OHV engine and just engineered from the ground up a new engine to replace it. I feel sorry for anyone who owns one of these. This makes timing jobs on modulars look like a cake walk.

Good one again Brain, 3 of 4 thank-you.

Great video, i ordered the Melling kit 3-398S from rockauto, it has notes that state something about a 2mm shift from centerline over the yrs, and front jackshaft,balancer, and crankshaft sprockets must be updated to latest OE design, if old sprockets are used timing system will fail? Did you use all new sprockets on front with the melling kit? About $700 in parts and tools so far to get ready for this job, sprockets will add $250 more eek!

If there was ever a reason to buy a Toyota this video certainly is it .

Good video bro ~ one of the Best on youtube for precision how to do it the correct way. Your certainly a very smooth skilled pro... Thanks for sharing.

I am to much thankful To you for your this great lesson. God. Bless you

THANK YOU FOR RAISING MY IQ WHEN IT COMES TO DOING MY 2006 MUSTANG 4.0 MY TIMING ASSMBLY DIDNT START THE RATTLE UNTIL 224460 MILES. ONLY THE DRIVERS SIDE TOOK A POOP BUT I KNOW THE PASS SIDE IS STANDING IN LINE TO USE THE BATHROOM To TAKE A POOP AND SINCE THE ENGINE IS OUT I MIGHT AS WELL FRESHEN IT UP SO A RE RING KIT I TONBE INSTALLED THAKNS

when will you post part 4 of 4 ???? I am in the process of timing my 05 explorer 4.0 sohc - need some tips on re-installing engine back in truck . You have been very helpful -- great videos !!!!

I changed the control chain and after that the pulse will no longer go to the coils, the injector nozzle pulses normal ... will it be out of point?

thank you FordTechMakuloco for your videos!! :)

Great video set, truly informative and eye opening. Btw, go to the 41 min mark and you will notice the upper bolt for the rear guide on the right head has the washer askew. It is caught in groove of guide, not clamping down on face of guide. That would suck to let go after all that hard work.

was debating which 4.0 to go with when looking at some trucks. thanks for convincing me to go for the OHV instead :)

it was a great idea to put cheap plastic guides for four chains; my brother just got one with all those symptoms the tensioners were replaced but still makes rattling noise

So far You are doing a GREAT Video

Thanks for the video best how to I've ever watched made it easy. Thanks

The engineer that designed this need to be taken to the woodshed

I know there is a big keyway and a smaller keyway for the special tool on the balancer. What slit does the small keyway go into? For some reason, the special tool does not hug the whole balancer when tightened. This causes the balance shaft with the chain on, after all marks align, to be off like 2-3mm's. Thoughts? If I could upload a picture, I'd show you. So, I just use the first available hole, and it still does not align 100%. At 5:49, I'm right there with you. I'm talking around 2:20 time. Small slit. Thanks!

@42:49 - Dumb question - could you use a little bit of RTV if the gasket/washer to the tensioner is missing?

Excellent work

Can’t wait to do one on my 1994 Ranger.

I did this repair 3 years/40K miles ago. I just had the tensioner and guide on the chain from the crank to the jackshaft fail. Timing kit was from a well known company but made in Taiwan. Both cam cassettes are OK so cams are still in time with each other. Chain from crank to jackshaft jumped teeth. I can get the crank to TDC by temporarily installing the cover/crank sensor and using the "0" mark on the damper. I pulled the cam sensor and turned the jackshaft until the "tooth" on the left cam was right under the cam sensor. Are the crank and cam in time now? Manual says the tooth passes the cam sensor to tell the PCM the piston is "approaching TDC" and to energize the injector, so I don't know if the cam is actually positioned correctly. I bought the tool kit when I did the complete job but then sold it since I figured I was never going to need it again. Any guidance is much appreciated. Your videos are well made and very informative, thanks!

great video Brian

would you know to tell me if this engine is left out of the point it cuts the pulse of the coil?

Doing this right now in my 2001 explorer sport 4x4. Only thing so far you didnt explain is how you got the last cam roller follower out and back in. If the tool you had couldnt get the last o e out cause there wasnt enough room, what did you do?

Brian, you make it look easy and we all know it isn’t. Another good video. Any recommendations on the head gaskets change out. I’m doing all this but including pulling the heads and replacing the gaskets. Thx!

Thank you very much for your contribution in this video, it was very useful

Wow your Awsome I’ve haven’t rebuilt a 4.0 yet but I want to just have fun to do it with your videos kind of brings back good memories of engine rebuilding ports I’ve done plenty of Chevy 350s -454 One or two 351 Windsors even though this motor 4.0 look like a pain in the ass it actually looks pretty fun just a rebuild one thanks for your videos I can’t wait to your number 4 video comes out

Thank you for the video, why the center screws Hass to be replace it.

Got ahead of myself on this. I had the front cover on and wondering where this thrust plate goes. I had to remove some parts to put it in. LOL The alignment tool I got from ebay was not to specs. I had to sand it down to fit. Had to take about a 1/4" inch off the highth of the one side. The one that goes inside the cam shaft was fine. And the top dead center alignment seemed to be fine.

Been hearing a lot of nasty stuff with the cloyes brand chain guides breaking off. You recommend melling?

Lots of good info and great video lots of great and clear examples

So I bought an 05 explorer 4.0... i took off valve covers because vehicle would not start. Passenger side rear of head where timing chain is or cassette found that the chain was loose because partially broken guide. I feel like mine was similar to yours. My question is even tho it would not start am I able to follow this tutorial or are my valves possibly damaged?? Great and beautifully done video.

Brian I love your work and videos. The most informative presentation, although a few missing details. Like drive the vehicle off the cliff. Or drop the engine in the ocean. I'll be having Ford just swap in a new engine on a 3 year warranty.

Is changing the time chain in a Ford Explorer 2008 Eddie bower V6 4.0L the same as 2002 Ford Explorer?

I have a2011 Ranger..When new,,not bad..around 68 thousand miles.....connecting rod busted out the side of the block..crying...

Very good video, this ford engine reminds me alot of the old GM 3.4L, DOHC V6, X engine. With the exaggerated procedure for cam timing, was just not the easiest. And worse yet it had a belt drive for the cams instead of a cam chain, ridiculous.

Doing this job in my garage at home right now.

I have a noisy lifter Drivers side Front. Is it the Tensioner/Cassette or the Hydraulic one vs. a bad lifter? (2011 4.0) I was watching you in this video and something struck me about you FordTech. There is something about you... the way you make your hands move, the way you talk whilst you work with your hands, your are meticulous and articulate. Even though I'm not doing an Engine Rebuild, I was drawn to this video just because of the way you were working. Thanks for sharing. Great Video by-the-way.