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Ford F-250 Rear Differential Service and a new cover. 

Craig Miller
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In this video I will drain my Ford Sterling 10.5 differential in my 2001 F-250 Superduty with the 7.3 Diesel. I will clean and inspect the internals and install a new cover and gasket. Then I will refill it with Redline 75-140 Synthetic lube. We encounter a few little snags along the way. This job will cost about $110 for the cover, $24 for the reusable Lube Locker no sealant cover gasket, and $70 for the lube totaling out at ~$205.00 as of December 2021. Links to all parts and tools below.
Come on along!
The extractor/filler syringe www.amazon.com...
The rear diff cover I used. www.ebay.com/i...
Redline 75/140 Synthetic with Limited Slip friction modifyer www.amazon.com...
The Ford 10.5 Lube Locker no sealant gasket www.amazon.com...
Rocket Sockets, rounded fastener extractors www.amazon.com...

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1 окт 2024

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Комментарии : 10   
@kcc2337
@kcc2337 2 года назад
Now that you pointed out the manual says to point the split down... I get to crawl under and make sure i am not an idiot and adjust as needed. Never even crossed my mind. My son hung the front and I hung the back. Too heavy to do alone without getting creative.
@kcc2337
@kcc2337 2 года назад
Mine are all split on the flat side that bolts to the axle housing. Only way they can go.
@millerke6771
@millerke6771 2 года назад
Man, you are prolific this week - three videos in one week - that's awesome and the video is awesome too! Sorry it cost you $60 to remind all of us to pay attention to detail when ordering parts online - check twice and then check everything again before pressing that order button! Nice looking cover - can't wait to see it in the flesh in a couple of months.
@usethenoodle
@usethenoodle 2 года назад
Thanks Bro... I appreciate it!. Ya, it's been pretty busy around the compound these past few weeks fence building, and landscaping improvements while trying to squeeze in mechanical repairs when possible. The weather has been just foul. It's snowing a ton in the mountains and so the snowmobile season is ON. That initial cover it turns out, was for my truck but fits the front end housing which is why Amazon's fit recommendation in the end was correct. I made the assumption it was a rear cover but no, it's sort of an armored front diff cover that is popular with the recreational 4X4 off road crowd. My truck has a Dana 50 front axle and a Sterling 10.5 rear (tag says 3L73 10.5, The L indicates limited slip and 3.73 is the ring to pinion gear ratio, 10.5" ring gear) with limited slip gearing or what is sometimes called "posi-traction". Limited slip directs the power to the rear wheel with the most traction vs an "Open Diff " which directs the power to the tire with the least traction- That isn't helpful in snow obviously. L.S. is not to be confused with a locker which locks both rear axles solidly together and can be switched on and off. I'm going to service the front as soon as the lube gets here. Same stuff by Redline but a different viscosity. I sort of wish I hadn't sold the other cover now... Dang it!
@kcc2337
@kcc2337 2 года назад
Well I do appreciate what you have shared. I focus on the 7.3 as it is the last of the "Holy Grail" diesels in many minds. Actually easy to work on. If you want to get there and don't care about how fast they are the one to do it. I should have chosen better words than "toast". I thought saw the gap where the bushing ends/cuts join. We see what we just changed. Just did front and rear sway bars. I should not critique your rig. It is beautiful. My 1st 2001 7.3 was Toreador Red also. Miss that color. I am close to retiring now and want to make my rig last to the end. Hell I can grenade my 7.3, have it rebuilt perfect without lifting a wrench for 15K and still not pay 90K plus for an EGR failure. Be safe and keep the sights aligned.
@kcc2337
@kcc2337 2 года назад
Noticed your swaybar bushing looked pretty toast. I upgraded to bigger swaybars and bushings. I haul a 3k camper so needed the bigger but made a big difference even empty.
@usethenoodle
@usethenoodle 2 года назад
I replaced all my sway bar bushings in 2020 when I did the steering. There is a 3 part series on the steering replacement on my channel. I did the pump and hoses. The steering box is by Red Head steering gear. Tie rods. Track bar and all the bushings and sway bar links both front and rear. All new parts from Moog Suspension. Then had it aligned. Not sure what you saw in the video that made you think the bushings are “toast”. But the bushings are all new. I tow a 10,000 lb Vengeance Rogue Toy Hauler using a Blue Ox load distributing hitch. I also have Air Lift air bags with the onboard compressor and Bilstein gas shocks on all four corners. I also changed to SSBC 8 piston calipers and vented cryogenic treated rotors. This truck runs and drives better than new. Thanks for watching.
@usethenoodle
@usethenoodle 2 года назад
Ya, I had to go back and look at the bushing shot in the video. It's just dirty. I had been up in the mountains towing my snowmobile just before Xmas. The bushings come with a split in them which per the manual faces down toward the ground. The front ones came in a purple color and the rear ones were black. They are new. However the old ones as I recall looked pretty good. This truck only had 37,000 miles on it when I bought it in 2012. It came out of Oceanside, CA. so it was pristine rust wise. It was owned by a lady there who had horses but she didn't use it much. So I nailed it. Just lucky. The bed wasn't even scratched. At 120,000 miles I decided to replace all the steering components. I made 3 videos getting that done. It was quite a job. I didn't get the power steering pump and hose replacement filmed. But the rest of it is documented. Like I say, I also replaced the sway bar links at that time. I love doing this sort of stuff and I drive my truck towing the toy hauler from Tacoma to Orlando every winter and back with my Indian motorcycle in it. So, I set this truck up for towing heavy.
@kcc2337
@kcc2337 2 года назад
Puget Sound to Orlando is 2 oil change minimum for your intervals. Pretty cool. A stop in Sturgis adds to that. Don't want to drag on but oh well. My sis and Bro in law retired 4 years ago and set a goal to "effectively" (not a drive by) visit and experience all the National Parks. Pulling a 38' 5th behind a 2014 Dodge dually. They got all but 3 before Covid. Now the only left is in American Somoa. Go figure we have a National park there. 70k miles and multiple charter flights in AK. My little goal is to "effectively" visit each Wa state park. I have all the San Juan boat ins done and 75% land. Flaming geyser was disappointing. Question... Do you ever run synthetic in any areas or do you rely on your regimented short intervals for success?
@usethenoodle
@usethenoodle 2 года назад
Hi KCC, I change my oil every 5,000. I run an Amsoil bypass oil filter setup which gets me 5000 easily. I run 16 oz of Archoil AR9100 Friction modifier in Shell Rotilla T 15/40 and a Baldwin main filter. At 5000 miles the oil still looks very clean. I change oil right before I leave. It's about 3,800 to Orlando. I change it right before I head for home and that's maybe a little early. That gets me home and I have about 1000-1500 left before a mid summer change. Sturgis is in August. It's about 2,800 round trip. Trans gets Valvoline Max-Life per my video every 15,000. I run Red Line Full Synthetic in both diffs. Front is 75W90, and the rear is 75W140. The Red Line requires no limited slip additive. My transfer case gets changed every 15,000 and it gets Motorcraft Dexron LV which I believe is a full syn. I just started using the Dexron LV due to a Ford Service Bulletin. Prior I was using Valvoline Max-Life multi vehicle- same as the trans. Mainly... never use Dexron V in the transfer case... per Ford's most recent info. I have videos covering most all of this service work. I hope this helps. Craig
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