Ford F150 Differential Fluid Change - AMSOIL Severe Gear 75W-140 & 75W-90 

And It will let pressure out Too when opening the Gasket Cap 😊

Thank you. I appreciate the comment! Thanks for watching the video!!

Thanks for the comment and watching the video!

Thank you! I appreciate the comment!!

I saw that there was no Magnet inside The Pan what happened to it?

On that one, the fill plug is magnetic. Thanks for watching and leaving a question!

Great tip! Thanks for checking out the video and leaving a comment.

Make it a habit guys! Keep up the good work 👍🏼

For real, I did one once and the fill plug was stripped from someone else. Oh boy was it a nightmare. I tried a few things , so I ended welding a few tacks around an extension to the plug, that got it nice and hot and quickly took it off with an impact. I still have that as a souvenir to this day.

Thanks for the comment. Hope I don't need to drop it along the side of the road but good to know it works.

I would have rinsed out the diff surfaces with brake cleaner to remove the fine wear material. That fluid looked bad. Great idea on alignment pegs and magnetic holder, but way to much gasket bead. I use Amsoil, why invest 10s of thousands on a vehicle, and use the cheapest fluids and fuel money can buy.

The wet spots around the differential housing is a troubling. A lot of people skip this step but after waiting an hour an torquing your bolts most RTV sealant states that you should wait an additional 24 hours before adding fluids. The Right Stuff by permatex is much better than RTV in this purpose as it's just a couple of hours instead of a day.

Thanks for the comment !

Just remember every component has a torque pattern. I see guys installing wheels and just go around in a circle. I cringe.....and won't let it happen on my rig. My one ton and all vehicles get their torque pattern at half torque and then again with full torque. Don't use a pattern and gradual tightening on a head and see how that works out. Same for an intake. Timing chain cover, harmonic balancer, you get the picture.

Barry Drake yeah or you can just tilt vehicle from side to side and do the same thing

Wouldnt manufacturer recommended quantities account for axle drain?

Great comment! Thanks for watching !!

I've dropped the cover on high mileage big rigs and pulled out a double handful of metal. Nothing to do but fill her up and wait for the inevitable. No point in replacing parts when a complete unit with warranty is the best route. We have an outfit called Western Trailer and they do a great job. They do 3 axle alignments you can feel immediately. Not only tracking but increases power and smoothness. Just in case you end up back there on a big rig.

Good to know. Thanks for the feedback!

Thank you. I appreciate the comment !!

Thanks for checking out the video and leaving a comment! I appreciate that !!

God bless you and your family brother.

Thanks for the comment!

Thanks for the question. Check out the AMSOIL lookup guide for recommendations for your specific application. It does look like most call for 75W-140. You mention the seal was changed. Was it the wheel or pinion? The pinion would be a little fussier to reassemble correctly. Best to you and that good old Ford!

Yes, had plenty of sealant on the cover. No friction modifier additive needed as this is an open differential; no limited slip plates. That would sure be a nice to have to avoid kicking the 4X4 in and out so much all winter. Thanks for the comment!

Thanks for the question. Check the lookup guide for product recommendations for your specific application. Link below. Thanks! Vehicle lookup and cross reference guide www.amsoil.com/guides.aspx?zo=5265385

The gear oil wears out, gets dirty, gets water in it. Lifetime isn’t forever. I’ve got an 08 and have changed the rear fluid twice in a little over 100K miles, and I'd say it needed it both times. The Ford maintenance schedule is a tough read, very lengthy and the differential is shown as both lifetime and 105,000 mile service. I wouldn't go over 50K especially if you're pulling trailers or doing crazy stuff off road. The differentials get condensation from the the heating & cooling cycles but never get hot enough to burn the water out and I've seen them run out overfilled and milky due to water in the differential. If there’s lot of metal on the plug it probably hasn’t been out for a while. I’d change all the fluids in a new to me vehicle. A Ford pickup is about as solid a vehicle as there is and will last a long time with some maintenance. Thanks for the comment and good luck with your new vehicle!

That was very creative. Good job!

Ive read where an old guy used #2 pencils

Absolutely! I've got a couple Jeeps with drain plugs on the front differential and that is a lot handier than pulling the cover, especially in the front where it's tight. Thanks for the comment !

I honestly think they purposefully leave the drain plug off because it forces you to pull the cover and check for wear, and clean the inside with brake cleaner to get all the metallic gunky stuff off (you can see the "sludge" the gear oil leaves behind when he drains the diff).

@@reddyuda I thought the same but my Z71 has a drain hole. I'll still drop the pan and inspect it. Like it or not, you can have a surprise you're glad you found before it told you. I agree about using a small amount of RTV. Get too much to the inside and it might turn loose. I don't want to find out if that would be a problem.

33 ft lbs for the cover bolts. 22 ft lbs for the fill plug. Thanks for watching the video!

Silicone used for the sealant. Cover bolts are torqued to 33 ft lbs. Thanks for watching and leaving a question!

On the gasket it depends what material you're using. Most of what I've used is snug it down, wait an hour, torque to spec, then fill after it's cured. Cure times on the Permatex products I've used are usually 90 minutes or 24 hours. Main thing is to select a product that will hold up to gear lube and follow the manufacturers instructions. The gear oil was dirty, and also on the next change as well. Milky and above the fill plug due to condensation. The heating and cooling cycles on the differential will pull in condensation, but unlike the engine, the water never gets boiled off. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment!

@@midwestsynthetic I used the permatex gear lube gasket maker. I put it on with one continuous bead. Then tighten it down. Then waited a little over an hour. Then refilled. Hope the way I did it was OK. Think I will use pre made gasket next time since I will change every 50,000 miles. Thx for your time.

If it's not leaking you're golden. A pre-made gasket (or even cut one yourself) would be the way to go it don't want to wait. Thanks!

It sure is quicker and easier to service differentials with a drain plug, especially on the front where it's tight. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment!

I always use the very best, AMSOIL Severe Gear. The recommended weight for your specific application can be found in the lookup guide, link here: www.amsoil.com/guides/?zo=5265385 AMSOIL does have a differential additive product available, called Slip Lock. AMSOIL synthetic gear lubes do not require this additive. However, not all differentials respond the same and the addition of AMSOIL Slip Lock will eliminate chatter in mechanically sound differentials. Thanks for the question and watching the video!

@@midwestsynthetic the f150 is not on the list I guess Amsoil doesn't make one? I mean my truck calls for motorcraft 75W-85 premium synthetic hypoid but I was looking for something else

The F150's are under Ford Trucks (not Ford). Looks like most of the 2018's call for 75W-90. Thanks!

The rear differential cover bolts on this F150 are torqued to 33 ft lbs. The fill plug is 22 ft lbs. Thanks for checking out the video and leaving a comment!

The manufacturer’s recommendation is the way to go. AMSOIL’s lookup guide for a 2016 F150 with V8 recommends Severe Gear 75W90 for both the 8.8 and 9.75 rear differentials. The V6’s are the same. The F150 V8 2017 through 2020 also calls for Severe Gear 75W90 in the rear, and so does the 2015. The 2014 F150 calls for Severe Gear 75W140 in the rear. The trend on almost everything is towards lighter oils. AMSOIL Severe Gear 75W90 looks like the right choice for your 2016. Thanks for the question! Please let me know if you have others here or through MidwestSynthetic.com

@@midwestsynthetic I'm not sure if I worded it properly but yes the book says 80w 90 but ford a has a tsb calling for 75w 140. A couple people have said that so I am trying to find the TSB.

I've reached out to AMSOIL's technical folks to see if they have any info on this. I couldn't locate the TSB on-line. It's definitely a topic on the F150 forums. Great question!

@@midwestsynthetic thanks you...appreciate it.

Here’s the full question to and the response from AMSOIL Technical Services including specific details on the 2016 F150. Question: “The AMSOIL lookup guide for rear differential lubricant for the Ford F150 calls for 75W-90 from 2015 on. People are telling me that Ford has a TSB out to use 75W-140 due to gear noise. I cannot find this TSB on-line. Is AMSOIL aware of this and are there any alternate recommendations for the newer F150's. I have a specific question from a 2016 F150 owner, concerned that the 75W-90 should be drained and replaced with 75W-140. Any assistance you can provide is appreciated.” Response from AMSOIL Technical Services: “Thank you for the question. It actually depends on the differential in the particular Ford in question. For example, the Ford 10.5 differentials do call for a 75W-140. However, in many of the same year Fords there are other options for differentials such as Dana 80's. The Dana 80's use a 75W-90. You will want to verify which year and differential you have for certain and use the proper fluid accordingly. For the 2016 Ford F150, whether its the 8.8 or 9.75 differential, current requirements for fluid call for the 75W-90. We recommend the 75W-90 Severe Gear Fluid (SVG).”

Hey, that's purdy good! It is a Polaris.

Usually don't have a gasket for these. The silicone sealant works good and always fits. Make sure you use a product that's good for gear-lube. Thanks.

Black atv should be fine

Best way is to remove the cover and make sure you get all the fluid out. Biggest consideration is the cure time for the sealant and subsequent vehicle down time. Some sealants are 24 hours before refilling. With the plug behind the ring gear it would be a challenge to get a tube near the bottom to extract most of the old fluid. Thanks for the question! Have fun with your project!!

A drain plug makes it much simpler and more people apt to take care of this themselves. I have a couple jeeps with drain plugs on the front, and that is much quicker and easier than removing and replacing the cover plate. Thanks for the comment and watching the video!!

@@midwestsynthetic I used to think they didn't have drain plugs so you'd see the gears when you drained the fluid. I finally realized it was just to save a buck or two and hopefully you wouldn't service as often. There's a handful of things they could add to every truck and it would extend the life by a lot but as long as nobody does it they stay on the same playing field and make more money on parts and selling new trucks. My neighbor's 19 250 Powerstroke 4WD came with an electric locker for the rear. I don't know what that added to the price but it is surely worth it. Who doesn't like an open diff when you don't need a locker? Nobody that's driven a truck and worked it for long. I wondered why they didn't do it in the front. Those old GM trucks in the late 70's and early 80's that were full-time 4WD would go anywhere. Had they just spent a few more dollars on the transfer case and put some hub disconnects on the front they'd have gone twice as far.....and handled better while doing so. I got a kick out of a city boy friend who bought a new 81 Blazer. He went on a hunting trip and he was miffed when he came back. He'd gotten stuck. He told me "The left rear was on a big hump and the front right was on another and all it would do was spin those tires not touching the ground.....why that's not 4WD". I couldn't help but laugh since i had a new Nissan 4WD that Nissan NEVER built a locker for either end and neither did anyone else. When you're stuck in 6" deep mud your mothers car would drive through you get a bad taste in your mouth. To this day you couldn't give me a Japanese pickup just for the fact they won't pull a gooseneck and don't have a true 3/4 T and definitely not a one ton. They're ok for your wife to drive to town on pavement I guess, They don't haul much of a load. And people think they're better than one of the Big 3 tucks. I guess they are if you use them as a car.

I absolutely agree a limited slip rear is a wonderful thing to have and suspect in today's world, many people see the additional cost without understanding what it is. I had a '73 Z-28 (a very long time ago... ) and it did an OK job of getting around in the winter, even with the G60's, because both rear wheels were digging. Thanks for taking the time to share the great stories!

@@oillease1881 There are plenty of Tundras out there pulling goosenecks. Power wise they are a little bit less than the competition but they have been using that same 5.7l for over 11 years now. Quality for sure.

@@davidchristie4218 They aren't doing that in west Texas and Toyota came out and said they weren't good for that 10 years ago. Nearly all my neighbors tried them due to the hype. They were short-lived, even the wheels wouldn't hold up. I'm speaking from experience. The small frames and axles are a joke A lot of people use them, or used to use them for lighter duty things but I haven't seen a gooseneck setup in a decade. In fact, I haven't seen them being used in farming or construction at all. One was all it took for me. Even getting a used one for the county ended up being a joke. The 4 valve engine had a lot of horsepower without much torque but what it would haul and pull were pathetic. And their fuel mileage is terrible. 13 mpg on an 18 since day one to this day just driving 75 with a bare pickup is horrible. City folk use them but country people using them for work is no longer even seen. Work trucks that don't start with a C,D,G,or F are not to be seen. Hook one to the bass boat with the family is the extent of their "work" ability.

No thread lock used on the cover bolts or fill plug, front or rear.

A link to the hose is here: www.amsoil.com/p/replacement-hose-25-ft-g1571/?code=G1571-EA?zo=5265385 However, if you don't already have a pump and lubricant, AMSOIL Synthetic lubricant in the Easy-Pack packaging is the way to go for installing lubricant in differentials, transfer cases, manual transmissions and similar situations. A link to gear lube, which is available in the Easy-Pack, is here: www.amsoil.com/c/gear-oil/25/?zo=5265385 For a video about the Easy-Pack, check this out: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-LGERD4VRXMQ.html Thank you for watching and leaving a question!

Rear differential: cover bolts are 33 ft lbs, fill plug is 22 ft lbs. Front differential: Cover bolts are 24 ft lbs, fill plug is 18 ft lbs. Thanks for checking out the video!

@@midwestsynthetic Thanks very much, I appreciate your help.......

It takes about 2 1/2 quarts for the rear and a little less than 2 quarts for the front. Thanks for the question.

Also, If you haven't gotten lube yet (or even if you have) the new AMSOIL Easy-Pack quarts are an easy and less messy way to fill the diff. I just got a case of them recently to try out and they work well. Just insert and squeeze. Thanks again.

The rear differential cover bolts on this F150 are torqued to 33 ft lbs. To get Newton meters, you divide by .73756 = 44.74 Nm. Fortunately most torque wrenches show both scales. Make sure you check the documentation for your own vehicle to make sure you've got it right for your particular application. Great question! Thanks for checking out the video!!

I’ve been pleased with all the AMSOIL products used. When first converting to synthetic I pulled oil samples just to be sure. Extending the drain cuts the cost and hassle. It works great for me and I’ll continue to use AMSOIL products in all my equipment. The company is top notch to deal with too. Thanks for the comment!

MidwestSynthetic thanks

The drain plug is sure handy. I've got a couple Jeeps that at least have a drain plug on the front. Quick to service and no waiting for the sealant to cure. Thanks for checking out the vid and leaving a comment !

The whole point of doing it though is to inspect the gears while your there

My '03 Tacoma with 75W-140 Mobil1 I replace the rear gear every 30K always drains clean, with minimal shavings on the magnetic drain plug. And still runs like a top with 269K miles. It's all about maintenance, and Toyota quality.

Absolutely, faster is better. I used the best thing available at the time, and the cure time did take some planning ahead because of the vehicle down time. Thanks for the comment!

robert chandler videos you can smell

@@LA_Commander Good point, never thought of that. But i'm sure its purely a cost savings for manufacturer... saving $200 on two quality covers vs cheap stamped metal ones they have (that rust and i've had to replace)$would make them $180,000,000... smart move... considering probably only 25% of owners ever change fluid, and way under 1% would have issues that would lead to a warranty repair in the first 3/5 years... actually you're making me wonder why the heck toyota and nissan even put drain fills on them... mind you I love it on the ones i've had, but why waste the profit... fords proven it! plus bring your ford in the dealer instead of a .25 crush washer that they probably wouldn't change you got a $15 gasket and about .75 more units of mechanic time... good business model... my fords were real PIA to do diffs and even trannys... come to think of it my toyota and nissan both had drain fills on the tranny too... ... and t case...

@@LA_Commander Well that's cool, probably on the heaver 250+ maybe??? I do get the cuts ford would make to save money, it all makes them more competitive!

I have 2015 Tacoma. Yes, having a diff drain plug is nice, but what would be even nicer would be a removable cover AND a drain plug. Its easy to drain the oil, but you can't see whats going on inside and whether any crap laying in the bottom of diff that you can't clean out and didn't get picked up by magnet in drain plug. Guess cheaper for them to weld diff cover on than bolt it on.

How about when the WELDED ON differential covers rust out and start leaking oil? Do you love that?

phiksit Mic drop!

@@miketonon7946 best to go with the 75/140 synthetic oil for the rear differential. It is a better broad spectrum oil, and it will help maintain the internals due to temperature extremes.

couple hours every 60,000 miles or so..piece of cake for piece of mind.

Gives you a reason to check guts