Ford F150 & Expedition Temperature Blend Motor Clicking Repair 

I've gone through 3 of those in the past 18 months, I had enough. I fabricated a small metal piece that I could attach an old style choke cable kit to (just like the old days") Works great, pull the knob for heat, push it in for fresh air. Just because they can make something electric doesn't mean they should.

This video is a great tutorial on how to get this issue fixed. I was able to use it to fix the exact issue 2010 Lincoln navigator. Really appreciate your level of detail and ease of explanation, it gave me the confidence to do it on my own.

Thank you soo much for your video! I was able to fix my A/C, & change my actuator, by watching this very instructional video. I also got my part from amazon, & saved myself over half of what the dealership was charging! People like you who take the time to make these videos, are awesome!

I did this today on a 2011 expedition. You really need a low profile socket for the rear screw. I Spent about 45 min. messing with the rear screw and finally went to the store and bought the needed tool. 10 minutes later all was reassembled. Thanks for the great video. It was very helpful.

FTM, I just wanted to say thank you. This video applied to my 2011 F150 Platinum. A $12 motor (Motorcraft YH-1933 DL3Z-19E616-A) and a couple of hours saved me a huge bill at the dealership. My specific issue was that my passenger side temp zone would not respond to dash controls. There was only a tapping noise coming from higher up in the dash, as you've demonstrated. Here are some notes from my experience that I'd like to pass on: - Passenger AC/Heat zone is controlled by the top blend motor, located right behind the radio (NAV unit for me), as shown in this video. - Driver side AC/Heat zone is the bottom motor, which FTM has another video for, but I wouldn't have the guts to try that one! - Each F150 dash model is different, but if you have the Sync USB/phone jacks at the bottom of your dash stack, remove the plate for them before you pull on your center stack cover. There is a hidden screw behind that USB plate that will ruin your day if you don't remove it first, before pulling. - The "616-A" in the motor part name I provided covers the "-B, -C, etc" motors you might see in an exploded parts diagram. Ford parts guy confirmed. - One arm through the radio opening and the other through the glovebox is how I accessed this top motor. I used the smallest ratchet I had to get the two screws out. - For the back screw, I used needle nose pliers for the last few rotations, to ensure I didn't drop it. I used the same pliers to start the screw during reinstall. - Before you take apart anything, you can reach both motors with your hand (top one through the glove box opening), and can feel the pulse of which one is ticking, if you need reassurance of which motor is going bad. - Open the old motor to see the broken gear teeth. It's amazing to think that one little tooth could cost you up to a $1,000.

You are an awesome human being! Thank you so much for this video and all the thorough steps that you included!!!!! This is the 4th time my 2007 expedition failed. The first 3 were trips to mechanic and several hundred dollars each. I think about $600. I am no mechanic whatsoever but your video gave me steps to try it myself. Hardest part was getting that back screw. No wrench anywhere would work. Ended up putting 8mm socket in vice grips and was ‘flat’ enough to fit in back there. Thanks Again!

I had the same thing done by the dealer a couple years ago on my 2010 Expedition. Now it's out of warranty so it looks like I will have to do this. Thanks for the quality videos. They really help us DIY'ers to save $.

I can’t thank you enough! I just completed this job and your video was so helpful. I did it step by step. Instead of your custom 8mm socket tool, I tied a string to a 4” 8mm wrench and cut the back tab slightly so I could start threading the back screw on before I put the unit on. The string was preventative in case I dropped it and assisted a wrachet motion. I also used a small telescoping magnet to prevent lost screws. Thanks again !!!

I had success as well! Thank you so much for sharing. $25 was much better than paying someone else to do the work!

Brother I appreciate all of your video's! They're extremely beneficial, and informative to a novice like myself. I had the upper actuator start clicking on my 09 F-150 with the full dash, connected cup holders etc. I'm a big ole boy, and I have to say there was no way in hell I could get the back bolt out, or in from the actuator! I cut my arms, and hands up trying to make it happen. I have large hands. I broke the rear eyelet from the actuator. I snugged the one bolt down on the new one, plugged in the rest, and everything is operating fine. I know it's not perfect, but it saved me $3-400 dollars. I would have preferred to put everything back together perfectly, but there was no way I could reach that rear bolt. Thanks for all you do!

This is one of the best "how to" vids I've seen. Thanks!

Ok, good instructions. I will note that this was my setup on a 2011 Expedition with dual and auto climate control. I didn't have any trouble reaching the back screw with a regular size 8mm socket and ratchet. It was a little challenge to put back in. I put some duct tape around my index finger and stuck the head of the back screw to the tape. That was enough to hold it to get it started. The part I pulled out from my 2011 would not match up by make/model/year at Advance Auto. I found the correct Dorman part number to be 604-234. My local Advance Auto had this part, but it did not reference it for the 2011 Expedition. Of course, I would have liked to use Motorcraft, but when I started working on this, I thought my vehicle had the very difficult one at the bottom of the console, so I ordered that one. Thankfully, my setup was not that and this fix was pretty easy. Thank you @FordTechMakuloco for the instructions.

A million thanks, replacement worked like a charm! For anyone else who doesn't have the socket tool and/or panel puller, the combo from Amazon works great. Pulled apart old module and saw the stripped gears, hope the new module outlasts the vehicle :)

My atm card went inside ... thanks to your video making effort easily opened the lower case and pulled outside ... otherwise technician was supposed to charge some money ...önce again thanks

Great video and you saved me $861.00 as in what two dealerships quoted me for this repair. The part was $12.86. Took less than 30 minutes.

This was so helpful, took me about 15 minutes to complete. Thank you for being so great at showing and explaining what to do.

Best visual and verbal communication. Just saved me $700. Ford estimate. 2-3 hrs labor $185 hr + parts and diagnostic.😊

Late comment, but thanks for the great how-to information. Used your diagnostic tips and information to switch out the actuator on a 2011 Expedition. Everything is working well now up front. Thank you.

2011 F150 XLT Basic AC/Heat controls fixed with you video combined with video on Radio removal - thanks for the terrific video - $400 repair cost me $25 though I will say that putting that back screw in place with the Dorman Blend Door Actuator would require a miracle because the Dorman product is thicker than the factory part.

You’re the man. You’ve helped me plenty of times with Ford repairs. I appreciate your video format: Clear and to the point!

Thanks! Fixed our clicking noise and saved hundreds for install. I appreciate it.

First of all, FTM, your videos are awesome. I used your video series to successfully do the cam phaser/timing chain job and the car (2010 Expedition Limited) runs perfect. Here's my current issue: I didn't have the same clicking sound that is demonstrated in the video, it was more of a light gear grinding noise with some less aggressive clicking noises (kinda like the alien in Predator). Anyway, I pulled the dash apart and pulled out the radio. I activated the HVAC system and rested my hand on the actuator module and could feel the noises being transferred into the module, so I figured I had the source of the problem. I replaced the module following all the directions in the video, and I still have the exact same noise. All the blend doors work properly when switching from floor to defrost to dash vents. The only symptom I have beyond the noise is that my heat takes a while to come on even after the engine is warm, and it doesn't make any noise until the engine is up to or approaching operating temperature. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Thanks! Video was spot on for my 2012 Expedition. My part is YH-1933 or DL3Z-19E616-A. $20 at my Ford dealer. Took about 20 minutes max. My symptom was a 10 degree difference in air temp between driver side and passenger in cool mode. The passenger side was 10 degrees higher but there was no clicking sound. New part solved it. I took my old assembly apart and nothing appeared broken. I tested the gears and they worked fine. I wonder if it was just out of calibration and the recalibration step alone could have fixed it? If yours is doing the same thing, it might be worth a try to pull that fuse and let the system reset before replacing the part. Of course, if yours is clicking, it's bad.

Fixed mine. Took the actuator assembly apart, found a broken tooth in it. Superglued that mug back on the gear. No more clickity clicks 👍

My 08 Expedition is doing the same thing, greatly appreciate the video, looks easier than what I thought, thank you sir !

I learned two things from my experience: 1) Be sure you have the recommended tools (IOW don't think you'll find a better way without them) and 2) there are at least two of these things in the dash. After an hour and a half or so of scratching the crap out of my hands on the metal framing due to hand un-tightening and dropping things, I gave up last night. I got up early this morning and grabbed a quarter-inch socket wrench from the store, and had it off and the new one on in 10 minutes. And after all that, then another 10 minutes of removing the fuse and testing, the clicking was still there. Turns out there is one on the driver's side by the gas pedal that is MUCH easier to get to, but it's a different part, so I had to order another one. At least I did confirm that one really is the source of the clicking, and it's only another $22 for it. But for what this is, it's a great guide!

one of the best vids ive watched as a mechanic in alberta canada i liked his knoeledgable oresentation WTG brother

Adding the link for the parts ... not all heroes wear capes 🙏🏻

Two of these OE that were clicking in my 07 Expedition, when I opened up the motor casings, all the plastic gear teeth were in perfect condition. The fail point on both was the plastic pocket on the inside of the upper casing piece in which the top of small gear spindle rests and rotates. The wall of the pocket gave way making the small gear free to push away from its bigger counter part gear, causing the gear teeth to slip over each other, causing the loud clicking sound. The slipping was made easier by the clear grease the plastic gears are packed with. The teeth are small enough it doesn’t take much flex to have them slip. So if the spindle pocket wall was just a bit thicker the units may have lasted many more years.

Good diagnosis explanation. It helped me determine which of the many, many actuators need to be replaced. Thanks.

You dude you rock, appreciate you making our lives a lot easier!

Great video- I was inclined to make one on the topic, but why? You NAILED IT!

Thanks! Mine started clicking a day or so ago. I'll attempt this one myself (with your video's help of course)

What year of Ford is this for? different years have different locations of the actuator..Thanks.

Thanks for a great video. Replaced the actuator today with no problems based on your video. The only tip I would add is, remove your CD's before starting! They can get jammed while radio is moved, (according to a friend.) Thanks again!

So the 'broken' teeth are inside the actuator casing? If yes it would've been nice to see. Also, since you said to check which of the three actuators was busted it would've been nice to see the location of all three.

Great video, cut 1/4 inch socket in half just made it back there and yes I dropped the screw behind the dash, plenty to be found to replace it, took the old unit apart, yep teeth missing

I just got done replacing mine, GREAT video. Other then my hands being all hacked up it was a seamless operation. I still have clicking, it seems to be when setting the tempura at higher settings.

Thank you for this video it helped me immensely! Once I've dismantled the front plate and radio it looks like allot of room until I had to take out that back screw of the actuator that was a huge pain in the ass, especially I didn't have a sawed off socket to wiggle inside. It took some time with an extended back wrench but came out without damage. Once the actuator was in it took me minutes to put everything back in. After install and testing it worked instantly, the next job the back actuator. Thanks for this great video and helping allot of us.

Wow thank you! Have you run into the issue where the actuator fails in under a year? We had a shop fix it once then 6 months later it failed. He replaced it under warranty then again it failed in under a year. I have a feeling he didnt pull the fuse like you show in this video.

Great video, exactly the problem we are having with our 2011 Ford F150 XLT. Thanks for sharing this knowledge!

Thanks for the videos. I have watched a few of them before fixing my 2010 Expedition. Great help.

Your videos are always easy to understand, view and follow, thanks for the great effort. Mine 05 is clicking, but only on the cold side of the temperature switch. I'd replace the same on you did here right?

Hi, I appreciate the diagnosis. The air in the front isn't blowing either, should I just start with the fuses and relay and move on to the blower if that doesn't work?

Great video! A 10" extension and a knuckle or wobble (whichever you call it) let me get to that back bolt no problem for anyone else doing thus project

Thanks for this video. Same noise I'm hearing in my truck.

Great video! I have a 2006 XLT Super Crew that gets stuck on hot and won’t switch back to cold. I replaced the temp door actuator and it still is doing the same thing. Do I need to recalibrate it?

Just a suggestion, when working with anything in a car where Electrical will be disturbed, always disconnect the battery before working. Otherwise, awesome video!

I have two problems... your video helps with the blend door situation which is Awesome! But also when I turn my AC on it only blows High and doesn't cut off unless I cut off the vehicle. Any advice???

Thank you for your thoroughness, and I will always take an Expedition over an F-150 ;)

Thanks for the video, mine is no longer clicking although when I turn it to max temp it clicks again and if I leave it on max temp and open the door it also clicks. I removed the fuse for a few minutes and unhooked the battery and it still does the same thing

Hi Brian. Thank you for sharing the knowledge and love your videos. Just curious 2011 Ford Expedition with climate control. My issue is when I run the heat I noticed the air on the driver side is hot but passenger side is Luke warm but I do not hear the clicking. Could it still be this actuator? Or another issue?

Just got a used 2007 Expy XLT. Front manual control on hot, blows hot as it should, but turned all the way cold, only gets down to lukewarm. No clicking or noises. Rear system is perfect and cold/hot as it should work. Does this sound like my problem? (awesome videos, by the way!!!)

Very well put together and detailed video! will this procedure be the same for a 2006 F-150 Larriat?

Thank you for the video. I am getting ready to replace mine in my truck! I'll let you know how it goes!

Great video, thank-you! 2009 Ford Expedition, loud knocking noise noise behind the dash just like your video except mine is only when I switch to cold ..believe it's the cold air actuator. Is there more there one actuator in my truck before I tear into the dash or would it be the one shown in the video.

Just finished swapping mine out. Thanks for a fine video demonstration.

Excellent DIY video. Very well done. Thanks

Thank you so much!.....after watching your video I replaced mine on a 2006 F150. It was slightly different but start to finish under 2 hours...and that includes finding the wrench I dropped....I'm not a mechanic but your video gave me the confidence....but the new one clicks after I change from cool to warm....do I need to do it again?

Worked like a charm. Thank you for these video instructions. Keep up the good work.

another satisfied customer! instructions worked great!

I enjoyed the video. The part number would of be great. But I give you a thumbs up.

Thank you so much for this video! Fixed mine in like 15 minutes and plus I would have had no idea what was making this sound. Your the man!!

i have a 2009 ford expedition, and ive noticed the knocking noise behind the dash..i think its an actuator like you have described in your helpful u tube video guides,,,is there more there one actuator in my truck or is it the one under the radio only ?

Couldn't find that Craftsman tool on-line. If you could post a link to it, that would be great. I could then cut a socket down to size. Had a huge challenge getting that back screw out. Replacing the blend door didn't solve our problem though. Have a 2007 Expedition EL with dual climate control and when set for heat, the driver's side blows cold. Passenger gets heat OK. Is there more than one blend door for this (EL) model?

The original part in the video had a blue dot on it but the new one didn't. Does the blue dot mean anything? I asked because a replacement part I received has a blue dot on it and it seemed peculiar. Great video by the way. I'm asking this odd question also because the packaging for the part was open when I received it.

2010 expedition, worked great 👍 Thanks

Great video. Is the actuator located in the same place on a 2007 Ford Expedition? Thank you

Thank you for your tutorial really helpful. I replaced my front actuator and it was cold for about a day. Now it blows warm air. Any advice?

Great video. Just did mine 2011 expedition. 👍👍

The part listed in the link is not the same part you replace. The part replaced is the Motorcraft YH1881 Blend Door Actuator.

How many actuators are there? My 07 Expedition is doing the same noise... Thanks! Great videos as always!

Hey FTM, appreciate ALL your invaluable advice and videos. Hoping you could give me some insight with the issue with my blend door still clicking even after replacing the actuator. 2011 expedition with datc. I've even opened the new actuator to insure that the teeth are all intact and they are. Could it possibly be the part that the actuator sets/mounts onto? If so what is that called or what are your thoughts sir? Thanks so much

Question once you do this is it necessary to put back that screw in the back ? Asking cause seen couple ppl in thr comments say they had to replace this part several times

I didn't have a socket that could fit on that back bolt, but I snapped the tabs that hold the actuator together and pulled the top half off, pulled the guts of the actuator out and could get a regular box end wrench on that back bolt. Just couldn't get the bolt back in on the new one.

Thanks for your videos. Saved me a bundle changing out my window regulators. 2007 Expedition with dual digital temp controls. I hear a fast clicking sound like a fan. Is it the blend motor or something else. Thanks for your help.

Hey man love your videos! I have an 05 expedition limited that I just noticed seems to blow hot air all the time. (I mean HOT off the heater core not just oh the AC isn't working.)If I turn it down to 60 it gets cold for a few minutes but goes back to hot. Then the fan kicks up cause it notices the cabin temp going up. Any advice? Is there a climate module similar to the air suspension control module? I recently had to replace that under the dash.

Hi, i have ford expedition 2011 XLT and i am facing nearly same semptums, ac switch (fan switch) does not work on level 1 postion as well as very weak air blowing on level # 2 & 3. would this problem relates to part?

I have a 2011 with dual controls. The click sounds like it is coming from behind the radio which makes me think it is passenger control. Is there a diagnostic test to make sure it is passenger only? Could they both go bad at the same time? I'm hoping it is passenger because driver's side looks like a beast to change out.

Thanks man you are very helpful great video💯

So, on my 07 with zone controls, the driver's side and the rear actuators are broke. Driver's side stuck to the cold, Passenger side works fine, rear stuck about half. Are the actuator part numbers all the same? Thanks for the video.

love the step by step videos....thanks...bob

Ok so the actuator is clicking on occasion but seems to work. At least the heater and AC work, but do you know it is not opening all the way? I say this because my AC does work but not real good. I am wondering if replacing this will make a difference?

You mention that a regular 8mm socket does not fit in the back bolt area. Can you describe the tool you made to fit? Thank you.

I have a 2011 F150 xlt and mine did it when setting AC at coldest temp, i rarely use my AC so I didnt get around to fixing it yet but a couple days ago I put a double din headunit in and plugged the AC controls back in and started ticking no matter what and also is only blowing out of the defrost, even when the floor or other vents are chosen! Can you tell me the part number for mine? Thanks and awesome video, keep it up!

My wife's 2011 expedition has a different a/c panel than the one in your video. Is the actuator still in the same area?

This video helped me a lot, but the actuator that was in the link didn't fit my 2010 Expedition - it wasn't even close - the holes didn't match up at all. My suggestion would be to remove your existing actuator & take it to your auto parts store so you can match it up. My parts store charged me $34 so the price was the same as Amazon. BTW, that back screw is harder to get at than you think and is the proverbial 'pain in the butt' of the whole project.

FordTechMakuloco I've got a 2012 F150 Raptor and it seems the passenger side vents are blowing ice cold AC while the driver side vents are blowing barely colder than room temp. Would you say the blend door is my issue? There's no clicking from the blend door whatsoever.

I am not sure if you still answer any questions concerning the clicking noise. but I have a 2007 expedition limited and the clicking noise will do it anywhere from 5x to 48x when it clicks. it really sounds like it is coming from behind the steering wheel, as opposed to behind the radio. any advice

another great show. 2010 Lincoln navigator Clicking Sound behind radio ,I change the 2 actuators and I still hear the clicking. the clicking happens when the AC is off and clicks only about 5 to 7 clicks. the clicking only happens in the summer. please help .

i have a 2009 f150 reg cab pick up. when i turn the heat control all the way to hot i get a loud consistant clucking or popping noise from the blend door area or behind the radio area. If i turn it 3/4 of the way to warm it doesn't do it. only with the knob turn all the way to hot. Is it the blend door motor making the noise? Ok watch the whole video and that is the same noise mine makes. must be it. after replacing it do i have to pull the fuse like you did?

Thank you for the information. I had the Passenger/Driver control actuator replaced at the dealer last year in my 2011 F150 because it was stuck on passenger, however now the floor/top vents is stuck on the top vent. It was making more of a 'stripping' sound versus the loud click like your video. Would that be the same actuator you are replacing in this video? Also, have they improved the design, or will I be looking forward to doing this again in 4 years?

I have a 07 expedition that was clicking. Now the clicking stopped but I’m not getting any air out of my vents up front. Is it the blend door actuator?

I have a 2010 Ford F150 Lariat and the hvac door is clicking on the drivers side every time I start the truck but stops after a few seconds. Now thats its summer I'll turn on max AC, drivers side blows hot air with no clicking. If i turn temp all the way up to 90 it starts clicking again, then back down to 60 the clicking stops and the cold air works fine. Is this the Temp Blend Actuator or the Mode Door Actuator?? I'm a bit confused how to know the difference. Passenger temp control works fine. I've been told that the entire dash needs to be removed and I'm getting labor quotes over $1000?

Excellent video. What a great description of the work. Almost makes me feel like I could do this myself. Question though: the amazon link takes me to a "door lever." Is that the part you replace in the video, or is it the actuator? Thanks.

Love your channel man! Love Ford trucks too!!

On an 08 Expedition with dual air digital is this blend door motor behind the radio the drivers side or passenger side? Thanks for the great videos.

You mentioned in the video, that the door itself inside the heater unit could be stuck?

HELP! Mine isn't clicking but groaning. It only happens when I turn from hot to cold. Is that still the actuator? I haven't been able to find any videos that mimic the noise mine makes.

I have a 2007 Expedition with dual control, I don't have the knocking noise, but my passenger side is stuck on cold. I did do the EATC self test and it gave me a code of 22 67. Is this the same actuator I need to replace. If so is it in the same general location, and do you know what fuse I need to remove to calibrate it