He is right on the money, the Mark 1 Focus is the Golden Age of complex enough to be modern, but still simple compared to today's cars, and are VERY reliable and cheap/easy to fix. Esp. with a manual trans.
@@usuallyfixingtinkering Port F.I. not problematic D.I., no VVT on mine, less to go wrong, the newer ones do get a little better MPGs, but they will not last as long.
Thank you for the knowledge passed on!👍 I`m have Focus 1.6 petrol Zetec 2000 and i think that is good choice for people who don't want to spend a lot of money on a car and want to drive a well-driving car.Sory for my english.Greetings from Poland⬜🟥
well generally its ok generally as long as you generally do the general periods of general matinance at the general or around it generally to generally prevent general problems generally around the general cars genrally mechanicaly general component areas of genrally propelling in genrally bacwards and forwards generally in direrctions is generally all the genral maitinance they genrally require with all that genrally every 3 years changed out for genrally the better it's genrally ok . . . . . .GENARALLY SPEAKING !!! . . . . etc , etc ,etc , etc . . . . lmfao !!! .. . 🙂 . . . .So Genrally Do IT . .OK !
@@usuallyfixingtinkering its genrally a top genral points of genral maitinance of the most genrally necessary to genrally keep clean and maitaned if you genrally like a genrally reliable genral type of genrally reliable good alrounder genral mode of transport applicable to all the genraly most used genral types of use case's that genrally are most regulary needed for genral use ! . . . ..IN GENRAL !?!?!🤣😁😆😛🙄
My 2001 model Focus car starts late after trying to start it after a while. It takes about 7-8 seconds. Once it starts, it starts immediately. Also, I smell raw fuel during long startups. I changed the fuel pressure regulator. Previously, the revolution would stick at 1100, but now it operates closer to 900, between 800-900. The fuel pump was also changed 3-4 years ago. We don’t use the car much, it’s still at 110,000 kilometers. It’s as if when the car is left idle, it sends all the gasoline back to the tank and then pumps it when trying to start. I don’t know, what’s your opinion?
I doubt its that! Sounds like it needs a full service new plugs, leads and coil pack to start off, usually this cures a lot of problems and there really arn't many that occur with these engines.
@@usuallyfixingtinkering changed coil pack last summer and got the plugs. i suspected that too but havent changed plugs yet. i ll change them this weekend
@@usuallyfixingtinkering plugs made difference but not for delayed starts. it s still same. edit: i bought bosch set first but one came different so i ordered ngk after heard you using them.
Goodafternoon Please help,i have a ford focus 2001 1.8 tdci, i cannot get timing gear seal in south africa, the one with the plate. How to fix the leak.
2003 focus wagon with a 2.0 liter zetec... 367,000 mi and engine runs great.. no oil burning, smooth, minor oil leaks from oil pan... these are a nitemare to change the alternators and of course, they have that plastic thermostat housing that Will go bad every few yrs... one thing we are just now dealing with is the antilock and parking brake dash lites are on... antilock is Not working and No codes for the wheel sensors come up.. what does show is a bizzare ABS code B1342 with a cryptic "Ecu failure for abs module" .. real headache in that to swap in a used module, you have to reprogram it with ur VIN# or it wont work..
Thank you for the video, covered in fine detail, ive saved a 1.6 2001 saloon mot failure, body was fine but everything else rotten, i replaced the subframes front and back and all suspension components. I loved every second of doing work on it, whilst everthing was off, she had a new undercoat sealant so now using her as a daily driver. Just turned 80k and sounds lovley. Only issue i wanted to pick your brains on please, when shes cold, it takes about 5-6 turns to get started although when warm, its instant. What could the problem be? I remember that it used to start on the dot when cold but she turns over quite a bit now. Any ideas please 😊
Poor Battery Connections, A battery that may need replacement or Poor starter connections! Hopefully that helps as you've done so much work you will be rewarded in the long-run for all this work :)
Great video. I have the 1.6 mark 2.5 estate on 109k miles. Runs great and averages 35 to 45 mpg. We also have a mark 6 fiesta 1.4 on 53k miles with the same Sigma engine. 100% reliable and i service both with regular oil changes etc. good old cars.
Cheers Martin! Absolutely right, Oil changes and timing belt changes is all they ever need! Brilliant engine, this and the zetec engine are probably the best ford have ever produced in terms of reliability, longevity and technological advancement. Other Ford engines of the past and present have one or two of these qualities but never all three!
I have 1.25 in mk7 Fiesta. That is some sturdy engine. Missed first timing belt change, interval is 8 years or 160k km. I replaced it at 105k and 10 years thankfully nothing happened. Engine wise most expensive repair was clutch at 135k and right engine mount. Plus Fiesta like to destroy it's ball joints that are pressed in wishbone, so every time i needed new one, replaced three wishbones in 147k km.
The MK7.5 was the last car to have the Sigma up until 2018 (plus Ka+) because it was just so reliable and very much staple of all that was good about ford engineering compared to the Ecoboost that replaced it, again a fine engine when it works but there are too many failures recorded to give assurance like the Sigma.
@@usuallyfixingtinkering Very true. Some new Ecoboost units as I understood have now timing chain instead wet timing belt after 2021 as I understood. I wanted to replace my Fiesta with mk8 1.0, but after hearing horror stories I gave up. Old little fella is still good for me around town.
OMG it was rich and idling poor due to a mechanic knocking off the vacuum line going to the PURGE VALVE rendering it inoperative. Also idle was dropping with AC on so disconnected battery x 10 minutes, did the IAC relearn idle 2 minutes or more in neutral, then repeat with AC on, IT IS PERFECT NOW! Ford was not the problem, was bone-headed mechanic. On mine the vacuum line comes right off the throttle body to the Purge Valve, pretty short. Remember I mentioned a PURGE will not operate without a vacuum line to it. Neither my PURGE nor my IAC are bad. STFT went to zero pretty fast! Idles 750 NO LOAD 850 or so AC on. Smooth as butter. An expert keeps telling me the IAC will operate without the vacuum line, but if that is the case, why IS there a vacuum line to it? I must admit, I had no Purge-specific codes, like when it went bad 4 years ago it had a code for a "large leak" I did however have a BIG vacuum leak at the throttle body nipple, being wide open to atmosphere.
@@usuallyfixingtinkering Yes, I am making a sign to put on air boot stating not a hand rest! Maybe mine was weak there but he must have leaned on it at some point and those boots are no longer made. He also managed to knock the vacuum line off! The very next day I went to wrecking yard and found a boot in nice nick (English term) as well as a rare Focus wagon, snagged the wider rear view mirror out of it. Mine was wobbly and smaller. I may get a spare air boot just to have it. Aftermarket nor Ford makes them now.
My apologies in advance if this is somewhat off-topic... My car's more or less the same as yours (a 2002 1.6 automatic), though alas in far worse condition! (What you've done is _amazing_, BTW.) I'd be grateful if you could advise me what options I have for topping up or replacing the power-steering fluid. (Since yours looks the same colour as mine does --- a sort-of blue-ish-green.) According to the Haynes manual, I need WSA-M2C 195-A, but I'm not sure whether that has been superseded by something newer in the intervening couple of decades, or whether it's better to go with something else --- I see that there are now a number of fluids which are designed to prevent leaks. Any help would be much appreciated! Thanks in advance & best wishes.
Replace the power steering fluid with the spec that you've mentioned, its the correct green hydraulic fluid. You can use generic red power steering fluid but really only as a top-up in emergency. No fluid prevent leaks, if there is a weeping O ring or pipe, they need replacing not adding a leak additive in.
@@usuallyfixingtinkering Thank you for the quick response. I have one problem... Where do you buy it?! I've searched online for the spec mentioned in the Haynes manual (WSA-M2C 195-A), but the products that appear with that spec are all red fluids! Perhaps I'm missing something or doing something wrong, but it seems to me that I've got a choice between red fluid with the correct spec or green fluid with an incorrect spec. Did they discontinue the fluid originally used in the car? I tried keying my registration into the Halfords site and they offer various possibilities for my make and model, none of which mention the right spec or colour. If I'm unable to find WSA-M2C 195-A in green, and have to resort to generic PAS/transmission fluid, would it be likely to damage the car or make it hazardous to drive?
@@usuallyfixingtinkering Thank you! So the Haynes manual for my Focus is wrong! (Unless I read it wrong, of course, which is quite possible.) You wouldn't believe the trouble I've had trying to get an answer to the simple question of which PS fluid to use. I tried entering my car registration on the Ford online shop, but no products appeared. I then e-mailed Ford, and they had no idea. So I tried a company specialising in motoring fluids, but again, no definitive answer. I trawled forums, and just got more confused. Your simple one-line reply has put an end to my headaches! Thanks again & merry Christmas!
Regarding 'common problems', one which I've found widely on the net is the problem of high idling speed. You had such a problem. Did you ever totally fix it? What was the problem? I've replace a split PCV hose, the TPS (because it was sloppy anyhow), IAC because although I'd cleaned it I couldn't test it, cleaned the throttle body completely. I'm stuck. It's vastly improved, but still 'hangs' between gears. Somewhere, there must be a vacuum leak that decays after 15 seconds, or so. That's my thinking. But where? No DTCs and the LTFT settles out at 18% after reset, though starts at 0%. (That's got to be a top clue). Ideas much appreciated. Ta! Forgot to say I've replaced the PCV too. I cut the old one open, thinking there was no spring in it, to see. There is, but would only have an effect when the plunger is sucked to the top of its travel. The new seems to be the same. Of dubious use - though I'm not the engineer who designed the venting. :)
Mmm. you've covered the basics and the main areas I'd be looking at. No.1 have you done a reset i.e. disconnecting the battery because the car 're-learns' the parameters of all the new components fitted. I don't think the issue lies in the electrical sensor side, it's difficult to suggest anything when it comes to "hanging" between gears.
@@usuallyfixingtinkering Thanks for reply. Yes, several battery disconnects and resets. As I say, LTFT starts at 0% but slowly creeps up. You wouldn't know about revs hanging between gears, as you have an automatic :) I've got the Haynes manual out, but it covers several different models and often can't relate to 'my' car. Evap is a possible, i.e. stuck open, or similar. Re: LTFT, the O2 sensor could be misreading, due to age. Just thoughts. I could fly 'Schrodingers Box' over from US. :) Guess you watch him? Quite a wizard.
Amazingly detailed video, thanks for the massive amount of info! Questions, what's the mileage on your Focus? Do these engines vary between the MK1 and the MK2 focus?
Thankyou! 90K miles ish, mines still pretty fresh in that respect. In terms of petrols there is no difference between mk1 and mk2's early on. I believe the mk2 1.4 was given 5bhp more than the mk1 1.4 (which was 75) and later on around 2008 onwards the 1.6 was given the Ti-VCT treatment power was upped from 100bhp to 125.
@@usuallyfixingtinkering Awesome, thanks! And if its any credit to the info and claims you're making about how bullet proof these wee 1.4is are, mines sitting at a solid 176k miles and still going well😂
7:20 I found out today that mine has collapsed. It doesn't leak, but it's as flat as a pancake when the engine's running. Might explain the misfires when it's idling cold/luke-warm. Where did you get the OEM one? Dealership or Ebay?
Yes it will definetly be the culprit! Either Ford have them as its so common to go but ebay as well but make sure it's genuine not aftermarket, they are too soft and don't last.
@@usuallyfixingtinkering Thanks! I'll check the dealership first. I hope they still stock it. I don't trust Ford itself all that much, but I trust them more than a stranger on the internet. I noticed a substantial decline in fuel mileage (about 60-70kms on a full tank) since the last time I filled it up. I'm surprised the original held up this long, although it might have been replaced before. It's been dealer serviced for most of its life. It still has the original twist-lock floor mats!
@@SmeurkeDeKat You will get a decline in fuel, most of them have had them replaced but some examples have led much easier lives which explains why its still happening.
It's located between spark plugs 2 &3, there's a brown covered wire that goes into it through a grommet. Just pry the grommet up and you'll see the sensor.
I remember my late father buying a bran new focus 1.6 on a T plate when I first drove it I was very impressed with how it handled and drove also this car is still on the road . I've owned a few ford's with this engine and they are very reliable like you said as long as you service them on time using the correct oil they will just go on
9:54 correction in order here. That hard plastic line from throttle is a vacuum line which is needed for the EVAP purge valve to operate. The purge valve also has 2 more hard plastic lines as seen in the video, one takes fuel vapors from the charcoal canister to the purge valve, and the other one takes vapors to the intake to be burned. There is also a 2-wire connector that varies the duty-cycle of the purge solenoid, based upon fuel tank pressure. Here is a quote from some research I did as mine has a lean code and trims are too high, and I am in process of testing this valve. When stuck fully open, they lean the car out. They do not normally go full-open, but the duty-cycle as on an IAC also opens and closes within a range. "The Purge is controlled by the PCM with a pulse width modulated switch signal. It is normal for it to cycle rapidly. This allows small amounts of the fuel vapor to be metered into the cylinders. This method allows the system maintain fuel control. One of the main jobs of the evaporative control system purge valve is to maintain a slight negative pressure in the fuel tank so that fuel vapor is not pushed out thought the carbon canister and into the atmosphere.This flow direction draws fresh air through the activated charcoal in the carbon canister. This then removes the fuel from the carbon getting it ready to capture the outward flow that happens when the engine is off and during refueling. So the purge will be on much of the time that the engine is running. It is usually turned off during deceleration and other times briefly to test mixture and run other tests. Fuel tank level has little affect on the amount of time the purge in on". Also of note, EVAP PURGE = EVAP_PCT: This parameter is displayed as a percentage and is normalized for all types of purge systems. EVAP Purge Control commanded OFF will display 0% and EVAP Purge Control commanded fully open will display 100%. This is an important parameter to check if the vehicle is having fuel trim problems. Fuel trim readings may be abnormal, due to normal purge operation. To eliminate EVAP Purge as a potential contributor to a fuel trim problem, block the purge valve inlet to the intake manifold, then recheck fuel trim. Purge valve (VMV) has to have a vacuum line to it for it to operate. Without vacuum, the valve cannot operate. Check vacuum line for a P0422 I will report back if it is indeed the purge stuck open, all things point to it, and a Ford expert told me to test it. It was replaced once 4 yrs. ago on my 2002 ZX3 with a USED part from a junk yard for $11USD 🤣 The one on your firewall looks IDENTICAL to mine. Ford used these on a myriad of models and years. They do go wrong, they are cycling hundreds of times a second to regulate the fuel vapor back into the engine.
That describes the system well! Since this video I've done a video specific to this system in a mk1. It will be coming soon and demonstrates in simple terms how it should work :)
It is a little on the small side but it's not too bad as long as your doing mostly town driving. Anything above 50 and it'll be working hard on any acceleration. The strange thing is I've seen a 1.4 Estate for sale recently, I never thought you could get them with the 1.4, now that will be very underpowered!
@@usuallyfixingtinkering that's fair enough, i though I'd look for the 1.6, it's that little stronger but still simple to work on, and I do like a bit of tinkering myself :) Great video by the way, keep it up!
@@ivanpajic9043 thankyou very much sir I will do my best to keep some content flowing the next time I'm doing something. That's not too far away! The 1.6 is a great all rounder can't go wrong!
malo je slabiji, imao sam 8 godina 1.4 ali nikad sa njim problem nisam imao. Preudoban i izdrzljiv! Sad imam Insigniju i mogu kazati da je Focus meksi u voznji.
Thank you very much for the video! Really no one takes the time to do such a detailed video for these old cars. Mine is 1.6 petrol one from 2005 and I have a strange issue. Whenever I am just about to stop the car (the car is in neutral) the RPMs drop right around 500 then jump back again to 1200-300, then back to 600 and this continues 2-3 times every time I am stopping the car. This happens when the car is warmed up and also I don't think it is running at best when the RPMs actually balance. It almost stalls and I am wondering what the issue may be. So far I've checked the idle control valve (clean it thoroughly), changed the Camshaft sensor, cleaned the crankshaft sensor, replaced the sparkplugs plus new cables, and cleaned the throttle body. If you have any suggestions I will be very thankful! Cheers! P.S. Mine also takes 1-2 second more than yours to start..
Thankyou so much I try my best to give useful advice based on my own experiences! What your experiencing is similar to what I had last year - the way I cured my problem was changing the naf sensor, that solved - the almost stalling when slowing to a stop issue! It could be a few things but if your idle valve has been cleaned I'd be looking at the maf or map sensor and I would clean the throttle out - this makes a big difference and maybe explains why it takes longer to start. I may be wrong but I'd start there.
@@usuallyfixingtinkering Thank you for the quick response! Mine has a MAP sensor and doesn't have the MAF one so I will change it soon! Meanwhile, I just get to know that I can access the hidden menu so I can check if there are any codes stored. Thanks again!
@@danielcvetanov2504 to access it press the reset knob on the cluster, hold it down while turning on ignition and hold until the gauges do a sweep and your in. You keep pressing the knob until you access the info you want,.
@@usuallyfixingtinkering Thanks! I just did this and on the step where i should’ve seen the codes i got “none”. Do you think i can still have a sensor related problem?
@@danielcvetanov2504 usually if the sensor completely goes then a code will show... but often i've found sensors to be on the way out and not throw a code because the ecu thinks its still working within certain parameters. I'd clean out the intake manifold and throttle body with carb cleaner thoroughly and see if that stops the issues... because it will certainly improve the smoothness of the engine!
