I just did the top two on my Fusion V6. Transmission mount was timely. I ordered the three mounts as a kit on Amazon. Even after changing the top two (one was shot) I still experience the clanking and engine movement along with vibrations when accelerating. Will definitely be getting the torque mount done tomorrow. Seems to be the easiest one and the most important. We drive a lot on the highway and that vibration is annoying.
I did this today Thanks for the video!. It was very easy on my 4 cylinder I had to push the engine a bit ( by hand) to get the bolt thru but very easy job Mine looked like it needed it My others were completely toast
On the Steeda website there are reviews that say this mount fits the 4 cylinder Fusion but it does not. There is a huge gap between the rear bracket and the Steeda mount about the size of the spacer that is provided. The only way I can see this working is by purchasing a spacer or pinching the bracket to the strut mount. Anywho just some info for those looking. Nice vid
I just did my rear engine mount on 2006 mercury milan premier. Stupidly, I tried to start the job with the 18mm bolt... after applying my torque bar, then a blow torch, and practically standing on it, i finally realized that the 18mm is welded onto the frane... please start with the 15mm like our host did...
Good video , bad replacement part ,you need to go oem with these stuff. Edit: that replacement part is actually interesting ,I would like to hear feed back from you .
I cant get the holes to line back up when I put the new one back on. Is there certain way it has to be turned or anything when reinstalling it? Something I may have missed? Because I am stuck lol
I have got the part from amazon, and i will replace the old one on car soon. It looks like that there is no need to jack up the engine to do the job, right? when we take the mount off, the engine will not drop, right? Thank you very much for this video.
Thank you for this video! I have the same car and same problem. I am curious about the big washers. Did you add the washers by yourself or the washers come with the mount?
My engine shakes when i am waiting for a red light. Just found the mount you changed in the video broke on my car. I dont know the shaking is caused by the specific mount or one or the other two mounts are also bad. I find the mount on amazon about 20 dollar. I am thinking whether i should go to lowes to get four large washers to work as spacers.
Any idea the size of the single bolt? Is it a 13mm? I just want to know before replace it. I'm sure you can't fit a socket on it and I don't have any wrenches either.
Would this be the "mount" that causes the engine to rock when starting? I've been noticing that on startup the motor will move quite a bit. I have the 3.5.
First thing that comes off is the heat shield (not shown in video). The first part in the video is the torque strut bracket. Best bet is to call a junkyard for it.
Quick question, what are the indications that this part needs to be changed? I have a 2010 and I'm getting a minor shake when going from 1st gear to 2nd.. transmission is good and it doesn't skip. Hope this is it.. any help would be great
You have to get under with a pry bar and see how much it moves. Hopefully it is that and not a torque converter. But you'll be able to see if the rubber is shot while trying on it
Thanks for the excellent video. I started to do this job, following your video, but the heat shield was in the way, and try as I might, I could not see in that tight space (rhino ramps not that high!) how to remove the heat shield to get at the mount. Any tips? Thanks
Yes I don't show it but I mention it at the end of video. Removing the heat shield is probably the hardest part. You have to remove the heat shield before anything else. 2 small bolts which are standard if I remember. 7/16ths or somthing stupid like that lol
How can I tell if I have this problem? How did you get this diagnoses? Just wondering because my car starting to shake a lot when it's in drive but goes away if I put it in neutral.
Joe spliff mine was so bad that I could move my engine by hand. But the way to diagnose any bushing is to first visually inspect for any cracks and separation. Then get some sort of pry bar and see how far the engine moves when prying.
Joe spliff during stop and go you could possibly hear a clunk if it's really bad. Maybe rough shifting as well but that would be severe. If it has never been replaced and your car is 10 years old then most likely it's ready for a new one.
Nice video Sir , But can you help me to find part # of engine torque mount for 2017 ford fusion sport V6 twin turbo , i can’t find it anywhere :-( please
I'm assuming you don't mean an oem replacement. Nothing by steeda, so I doubt there is anything bolt on yet. Try looking for polyurethane inserts by energy or someone like that. Fusion owners usually have to wait a lil longer than others for performance parts unfortunately but steeda would be the ones to come out with it first.
Jason Scarborough its more rigid than the oem. Some "buzz" in the steering wheel but that is expected. I feel like my front end lifts more when punching it. A good thing lol. I will be replacing the struts and installing drop springs soon and will make a vid on how I'm doing that with minimal cost.
AncientLionOfG it's held up really well, I've been under there a few times for oil changes to inspect it. I was worried about it melting since it's so close to the exhaust but it's fine. Definitely get that heat shield back on there tho. It's more expensive but it's worth it if you do it yourself. Hope this helps
thanks for the reply! i brought and installed mine the other day and its great! i have a 4 cylinder so my heat shield isnt as close as yours in the 6 and it was a little easier to install then how you show in your video but it did help alot, so thanks for sharing this video on youtube.
MI_MONEY rockauto does not carry mounts with energy suspension poly bushings. I actually took this mount out of this car and swapped it out in my '12 fusion lol.
You actually only have to Jack the car up. This mount doesn't hold the engine in the vehicle so as long as the upper mounts are good there is no need to Jack the engine or anything if that is what you mean. You can throw a Jack stand underneath it to be safe tho
This oem mount is crap. Cheap rubber. The one I put it is billet aluminum with polyurethane bushings, much better. Took it off this car when I sold it and put in my 2010.
@@Schwifty1055 these type of mounts theoretically put more power to the wheels because there is less loss due to the engine not torquing as much. That causes less traction actually. Suspension and tires dictate traction. Old school hot rodders used to chain their engine to the frame for the same reason. Unless they were just doing a burn out session their suspension and tires were able to handle that. I would say don't waste the money. It's a fusion. If you want to race there better options lol
