Tools that make this job possible/easier as shown in the video. Fan clutch tool set here → amzn.to/2vyiFs2 Lisle coolant funnel here → amzn.to/2wG1MvY Metabo impact gun here → amzn.to/2wFykGh Find your next fun pocket knife here → amzn.to/2vyfwIG Bolt Puller set here → amzn.to/2vR0Wi5 Xtreme Green high pressure lube here → www.cs4000.net/XtremeGreen/me...
Great video Brian. I have been working on my personal vehicles for years, and had most of the tools required, but the tips on the Puller bolts (M8-1.25) & longer center bolt (M12-1.5 X 90MM) were great. Unfortunately, we had to go to Fastenal across town to get the bolt, as none of the supply stores had the 1.5 thread pitch. Also, we had to put tension on the Harmonic Balancer with the Puller, then tap on the Balancer with a hammer to get it to start moving, and nearly stripped the Puller threads. We also had to pull the starter (simple removal on this vehicle) to hold the crank still to break loose the M12 Bolt. Wedging a large slot screw driver in the fly wheel did the trick, but we tried most everything else trying to get the bolt loose. Clearly over torqued! I wish I had the patience to video some of my projects, so thank you. YOU TUBE is great for providing this type of information, weather it's automobiles, home, computers, etc. Thank you YOU TUBE!
Just an FYI when breaking crank bolts loose as long as it left hand threds you can use a long breaker bar and prop it on the frame and use the starter to break the bolt loose just food for thought
Thanks for the great tip! I just removed and reinstalled my harmonic balancer (to replace the leaking crank seal) on my 2003 Ranger with the same motor as this sport Trac, the 4.0 sohc. Have a couple comments that may help others. Napa's version of the rental fan clutch removal tool includes the needed 57mm and 36mm wrenches and works great. The "bolt style wheel puller" kit from harbor freight is 20 bucks and works great for this application. The kit even included the correct size bolts to thread into the pulley. I removed the harmonic balancer bolt and took it to the hardware store to try to buy a longer one for pulling the balancer back in. M12 x 1.5 ended up not being the correct thread pitch as recommended in the video. I believe it would be 1.75 or 2, but I don't know for sure because my hardware store didn't have one that matched. I ended up not needing one though, the original bolt was long enough to pull the balancer in. I don't have the fancy impact that fits inbetween the radiator and the pulley. To get the balancer bolt loose, I put a long breaker bar on the bolt and rested it on the passenger side frame rail. Activated the starter for just an instant and it broke loose real easy. I also didn't know that the bolt is TTY and shouldn't be reused. My local parts stores didn't have any in stock. Make sure to get one before disassembling like I did.
Exellent video. About to tackle this with my son on his 07 Ranger. Knowing bolt size, length and thread for everything ahead of time is gonna be a big help. Because of your video I get to look like a master mechanic that gets everything right on the very first try with no unnecessary steps....hahaha! Thank you for putting in the effort to make stuff like this.
Thanks for the video! That friggin center nut was a bear to break loose! My neighbor (a mechanic who I hate to ask to do work for me) gave me a tip: Use an 18" breaker bar, long enough to rest the handle end on the frame (drivers side). The breaker bar is attached to the socket and the socket is securely on the nut. Give a one second ignition engagement (just a quick turn of key and off again - you are not trying to get the engine running). Since the harmonic pulley turns clockwise, the nut will rotate counter-clockwise and release. I spent an hour trying to get that thing out before I gave in and asked him if there was a trick to it. Worked like a charm. Your impact wrench is great, but there is a cheaper alternative.
Worked for me! Thanks to Scotty K. channel. 19mm and a long breaker bar, belt off, crank but don't start the engine, off she comes. mine was 06 ford explorer, 4.0 v6 4x4
I will probably never touch some of the cars you work on, but seriously enjoy and appreciate the approach and care you bring to each repair. And I usually learn a lot. Great work!
Hey Brian thx for taking the time to make this vid. Along with other videos, i enjoy watching them even though i have not come accross some of your situations on other vehicles; BUT i have already come accross this problem on this kind of vehicle. I do remember taking it off from the bottom without E. Fan clutch interference.
Great teacher! 👍 as a person which English is not the primary language, this is gold, I appreciate that you speak in a matter that is understandable from start to finish, and the way you explain the process is also great including the camera angles and the tools required for the job. Fantastic video! 😎😎😎💪💪💪🔟✅️
Harmonic Balancer went bad on my Ford 3.0 engine and ate through the timing chain cover... Out of desperation,, I used a mixture of J.B.Weld and Steel Wool to patch the rather large hole in the aluminum timing chain cover... Over 5 years time and 100k miles later and it's still fixed with no oil leak. BTW,,, Thanks for another great video Brian...
True... and this is not even my year model. There wouldn't be any grumbling about paying educators a decent wage if they were all like him. Plus, I'd definitely be much smarter.
I'm working on same engine different car though but same stuff applies,I really enjoyed video didn't fast ⏩ at all never boring keep up the good work bro
Pretty good video. I have one of these >cars< for my wife. It's been a real lemon so far with quite a few repairs that have been above and beyond, now this has gone out, so am taking it to a shop as I don't have a shop nor the tools to do it. Pretty good explanation on everything though. Thanks!
Best video instruction for me, thank you. I am just starting this replacement, my crank pully has move back towards the engine. Could this be normal or is the timing cover seal bad to allow this movement? thanks if you can tell me why the pully might have moved the 1/2 ". Thanks again
Word,.... Advance auto it costs you $129.00 to rent their HB puller and it don't work,... none of the bolts are long enough. I had a puller but the bolt stores were closed,... so we rented that one,.... waste of time. Got the bolts brian'smobile1 recommends and the Harmonic Balancer came right off. We used the big breaking bar to break the bolt loose a 3/4 socket and bumped the starter and the bolt broke loose. $14.00 to buy a Harmonic Balance puller at harbor freight,...A 3 armed gear puller works as well. But you will probably have to remove the radiator,.....nightmare***** But now my sons Ford Ranger is back on the road again. Thanks brian'smobile1 great video.
Do you have a specific video for changing harmonic balance for a 2007 Ford mustang, v6? Your video has been the closest, and most informative, but smartest video as yet! I have this saved to my phone. I'm a gal, learned about wrenching on older cars, but 1st time doing this on my 2007 mustang. I'm already changing out the radiator so this happening was the best timing! I'll keep watching or if you'd hv another person's video to watch,video greatly appreciate it! Great video! Great clues about putting it back on, and the sizes of what might be needed. My neighbor is a retired master mechanic, so hoping we have a puller that will work. I've never heard of that lubricant either. I don't mind if it costs more, just as long as its a good product. Thx for the info! Liz
I just did this this job ended up being a bit of a nightmare. The puller bolts were to short and needed 8mmx1.25x100mm long. After installing the dorman harmonic balancer I started getting misfire codes P0300 P0303 p0304. I changed out the crank sensor and spark plugs. I ended up pulling the balancer back off and found that the pickup teeth for the sensor were bent on the new balancer. Make sure to check your new one before install. I just wanted to share this info for others.
Not sure if I'm correct or not but you said the balancer bolt was three and a half inches long how long is the extra bolt to put it on a crank I did not catch it in your video. Thank you
My 2008 Ford explorer 4.0 was thrown off 2 serpentine belts in the last week, the only thing I could find was the that the harmonic balancer pulley does not free spin, could be throwing the belt, can these seize and mean it's time for a replacement? Thanks
Great video thank you. I have to do this job out on the road and now I no I'm ready to get it done in one trip. Appreciate the good info. Like and subscribed.
Brian, I have a 2000 F150 4.2 and from underneath the truck (3" lift) I can easily see the Harmonic Balancer. That also means it gets thrashed by massive puddles and is unprotected. What is the name of the part that shields the HB?
Great video, but you never showed how you got the HB off? I have a 06 Ford Explorer, 4.0 v6. The inside of my HB looked fine, but with engine off, ran my finger inside and it was in pieces, couldn't tell from the outside but from a little shaking at idle. Same issue but in your video @ 7:12-7:16, those clamps with the 3/8 and 1/2 hose removal tool will not budge. Badly rusted and seized on really bad, I tried hitting, heating, oil, everything.... still cant remove unless I get new oil cooler lines or saw it off and ruin the radiator. Anyone have any suggestions? Brian, Recommending adding the tools needed for the job in the description below, example: 8mm,10mm, 13mm, 36mm fan tool, 56mm skinny fan pulley tool, pop rivet interior removal tool, pick tool, long 3in hardened bolts for HB removal, 19mm deep, 3/8 & 1/2 hose A/T clamp removal (if not badly rusted). The tools I rented from auto zone for the HB removal bolts were too short at around 2 1/2 inches, need minimum 3 inches to get more than 2 threads into the HB with the puller. So, Guess I'll be making a trip to Lowes Hardware if Auto Zone doesn't have a bigger set. Oh, btw, the radiator is a pain in the rear to remove! Discharge the A/C, Get some rags for the A/T oil "if" you get the hoses loose (I couldn't) located at the bottom of the radiator, and you have to pull the radiator and A/C condenser at the same time. The radiator bracket will not allow you to just pull the radiator. Good Luck and enjoy.
Thanks for the video, Brian. I was wondering if there were symptoms that indicated to you that it was going bad or if it simply failed. I’ve got an ‘04 Ranger 4.0 with a very slight vibration at all speeds which after inspecting balancing and swapping tires and replacing hub assemblies is still present. Trying to determine if it’s possibly the harmonic balancer or even a bad engine mount. Any insight you could give would be appreciated. Thank you in advance! Have a great New Year!
Need help ASAP. I'm currently swapping engines, remanufactured long block. While trying to line the converter stud I moved the flex plate using the crankshaft pulley bolt and turned it counterclockwise a 16th inch and both loosened up. Since this is a TTY do I have to replace? My problem is now that the engine is installed how do I tighten it 37 ft lbs + 90 degrees without the engine turning over too? Long block is already installed
I had an 04 explorer that the same thing happened to. Except it came in on the hook because it ate straight through that crank sensor and became a crank no start.
Hello Brian you mentioned that sometimes the 4.0 that is receiving the new crankshaft balancer may have to be reprogrammed. Can you expound on that concept
Any word on how to do this? I just replaced my pulley and now I have a misfire on 1 and 5 and I think it’s because of a faulty crankshaft position sensor
Brian, I’m swapping the motor in my 2004 explorer with a 1997 4.0 sohc out of a ranger. I know everything on the long block needs to be switched over from my blown up motor, but does the balancer need to?
Ok mr man. Everyone is making a big big deal out of getting the bolt out of the harmonic balancer itself. The easiest way I found was to take the fan blade off,remove the tensioner, and of course the fan cover which is the first. My tensioner did exactly like yours. So I went and bought a chainvice grip a tightened it as tight as possible. Then take a small chain and wrap it around the alternator pully then pull the wrench as tight as you are comfortable with and hold it. It will pop
I think Ford used to make Jaguar. I have a 94 xj6 that squeels like a rabbit once it gets warmed up. Some one suggested it may be the dampner. It's the in line 6 3.8l I think. Would replacement be similar?
Good video brian. If you already have the harmonic balancer off, why wouldn't you replace the front seal? seems to me that would be cheap insurance for a possible leak in the future. obviously up to the owner but I would have given him the option.
briansmobile1 how big a pain is it to replace? I've done numerous rear and front main seals on other engines but have not done one on the 4.0l. it looks to be in there quite a ways. now that I think about it, if it's not leaking, don't mess with it.
Mr. Brian, as a whole, what brand of vehicle have you serviced the most often? I've heard a mechanic around where I live claim that working on Ford vehicles has kept him in good business. Is this your experience as well, or is there a worse offender? I understand that it can just be a regional sales differential, but I'd be interested to hear your experience.
I really need help with this, I have the same set up, 1 bolt snapped off, I purchased a cheaper set, not sure if it matter but the bilts are pretty weak, mine is an 05, 4.0sohc. What bolt thread and length would I need. At this point I'm pulling my hair, I think I've been doing it all wrong by trying to bypass using the bolts, probably damaged internal goods at this point. I need my wheels back HELP! PLS!?
Hey Brian, are the oem tools fan clutch kit any better than the junk they have at advance auto parts? I have yet to be able to use their kit on ANY of my cars.
I do have question. I have an 07 Explorer the timing chain went out on. So since the engine is going to be out I'm going to replace all internal parts and proably the new heads to. My question is will I need to take it to Ford and have the engine programmed?
Thank you for the video! I just replaced my harmonic balancer on my 2008 v6 mustang. I do have a slight issue though. The new balancer has the different exciter ring just like on your video. After everything was hooked back up, the engine hesitated to start. On the second try, it fired up and idled for 5 to 10 minutes. The idle seemed ok. I decided to go for a test drive, and noticed that my wrench light was on showing a code P0320. I shut the car off, and it will not start again. I'm having some worries go through my mind because the balancer turned a little bit while I was trying to get the bolt off. Can this throw the timing off? Could it be as simple as getting a reprogram? I should also mention that the old balancer did not separate. I replaced it due to some minor engine vibration. I did not replace the crankshaft sensor as it was not damaged. The new harmonic balancer is a Ford factory part.
I think you're good. I would double check for the Harmonic balancer to be on far enough but not too far. Also check the crank sensor again for damage. If those are good, disconnect the battery and or clear codes and try again. If that doesn't work, get it programmed.
Hi Brian! I too just replaced the balancer on my ‘08 Explorer. The new balancer does have a different exciter ring as you mentioned. I am getting the same P0340 code even after trying a new crank sensor. How do I reprogram? Thanks
How does one get it reprogrammed? I misfire at highway speeds around 2000RPMs since I replaced mine. Ford dealership acts like they have no clue what a reprogram even looks like. I'm considering replacing with another cast tone ring rather than the aftermarket sheet metal one like you're using and I used.
Thanks and you're welcome Joe! My talk this morning worked out pretty well too! I figured I'd crash one or the other so having accepted that, I didn't stress it and it worked out for both!
I am seriously . Stuck on a HB on a 1993 Tbird SC. I bought this car as is and I can't figure out heads from tails ok n this install. I have this aluminum nub I guess u would say. I have no keyway and the new pulley slides on but it does not center without a key way and I am sure it will wobble. I'm don't know whether to pull this stuff off and go from there or slide this on and bolt it up Any help would be appreciated
Slide it on and bolt it up. When you set the calibration for the CKP (crank angle sensor) it will "learn" where it's at. This is one of those infuriating Ford-isms that save them a ton on manufacturing and assembly and drive mechanics crazy for making our job harder and our tool burden more expensive.
I got a 05 4.0 explorer got a noise between a rattle or a bearing grinding a little. I've took it everywhere.. replaced the tensioner pulley napa mechanic told me not it.. is there any true way where the noise is coming from tired of the guessing games and back yard mechanics. Sounds like the harmonic balancer. The again the noise comes from everywhere. I work on the road so I'm trying to fix it in parking lots..
Need help! I cannot get the balancer off. I got the puller on and it clear ripped to threads out of the harmonic balancer... Should it be that hard to pull off that this happens? Am I missing something?? Yes the center bolt is out and loose
Thanks for telling me. The truth is, most people on my analytic s watch about 3 and a half minutes and sort off. I'm like the reference section of the library. People show up to look some fact or info up and then go into using it in the real world. I'm happy to accommodate though. It just takes on average an hour of work per minute of video to do with lighting, filming, and editing. Those 45 minute videos either take all week or they get rushed and look bad such that they're hard to watch.
Agreed. Love the long stuff. I watch a lot of Eric O. Lot of long stuff there. Likes to go into detail. Love it. Been watchin u for years brian. Def. Love ur videos. Def. Started watchin u and ETCG first Also...doorman is all they had? Lol
I wouldn't pay much attention to the 3.5 minute people - they are not bored, they are looking for their problem and maybe this video covered it. Turns out you are not psychic so it's not about their problem and they just leave to searching more videos for their problem. Bang for the buck, your stuff can't be beat. I watch to the end for BFATE bonus of course, but in general I don't have the problem talked about nor the vehicle either. Just the good info, links to neat tools, tips, and etc,. I can apply elsewhere. Don't be afraid of a long one anymore than a super short one, we tend to like what we can get. Long ones sound like a lot of work, so just don't burn yourself out on them please and do what you want to. OMG it's raining again.
When it comes to needing a bunch of specialty tools and working with delicate parts.. in my opinion the boring approach is the best way to go so that way we DIY'ers don't ruin our cars. When it comes to suspension parts.. The boring approach is frowned upon.
I can not get my harmonic balancer (crankshaft) pulley to come off. I've tried using one of those puller kits and it got all bent up. The main bolt is out. I've used PB blaster and WD-40 and it will not come off. My vehicle is a 2007 Mustang 4.0L V6. Any advice on how to get the pulley off? Thank you
@@mikebell4396 The bolt itself came right out. It's the pulley itself I'm having the trouble with. My different type of puller is to be in today. To get the bolt out I did what most of the other videos are showing. Breaker bar supported on something strong and just turn ignition key just enough to get the crank to turn then quickly back off, and it came right off. Do not let the engine start!
Double check for damage or cracks to the Crank Sensor and plug 1st. If that's all okay- pull the HB off again and double check the alignment. If that doesn't work- tow it to someone with an MDS. (Ford scantool)
Will a regular harmonic balancer installer not work on this engine? Amazon has a few, and far as i know $nap On still sells them. Once you use one, it'll forever leave a cheery grin on your face just thinking of it! And the balancer story: I'm not a race fan, but years ago channel flipping came across one. At about that same time they stopped the race and the 'commentators' said something about a hazard on the track... the camera's quickly found a small object moving around on it's own. Once zoomed in, it was obviously a balancer spinning/dancing like mad on it's nose... and the good ol' boy 'commentators' seemingly hadn't a clue to it's identity; till someone told them. Guess you had to be there... :)
Please get a balancer installer, turning a bolt in the crankshaft threads to pull the balancer in is not a very good idea. It's pretty easy to pull some threads in the crankshaft and then the bolt won't torque properly which can cause the balancer to come loose and severely damage the crank snout in the process.
Didn't help that you didn't show us the new one going on. Mine isn't going all the way back I assume it's because I reused the old bolt. I also assume you had trouble as well thus not showing us
I looked around for one as well, I went to Fastenal and they had them but they were too pricey for me. What I did was got a piece of 1/2" plywood and then went to either a home supply store (or you could use any hardware store) and purchased a bolt (about 1 inch long) and a nut for each size I wanted. Drill the holes for the bolts about an inch apart, and glue the nuts about an inch apart. I have 1 for SAE that goes from #10 screw all the way to 7/8" and one for METRIC from 10mm to 24mm. By making them with plywood I can use screws to attach them to a wall, OR not. As I recall it cost about $10.00 each.
please can someone help me i drive a 1990 chevy Beauville Van that has gauge problems all my gauges work in reverse gas battery fuel anybody can help. what causes this how do i fix this
If everything is backwards and it's a 12v system- probably the ground and signal for the whole thing is backwards or the cluster is off date to a fabrication where they're backwards for whatever reason. This is obviously a guess because I haven't looked at it, but it's an educated guess.
briansmobile1 thank you Brian ive checked all the fuses by the way my service engine soon and my Brake light used to come on are all these lights and Gauges on the same circuit