Your vids crack me up.. it'll be a year or 2 till I upgrade from my mk 4 but I will still watch and enjoy... you should be on the tv you have a great laid back approach with good information, explanation and camerawork etc ... cheers 👍🏻
It may be a boring brake job to you. But for me it's knowledge. I have the same car and it's my first car so this is a massive help to me. I watch your videos so much and your teaching is appreciated
Ford garage in Bicester quoted me £ 460 just for pads. I hung up immediately and went to Euro car parts , bought front and rear Pagid for £ 160. I spend around £58 on tools, and 3 hours later, the job was done. Thanks for your videos, bruv.
Cut out in backing shim makes toe of pad contact disc fractionally before heel this eliminates squealing due to resonance. Give that hub flange a good clean up before disc goes on! Ensures disc sits without any run out. Great videos though. Keep them coming.
Hi Alan Love your videos really informative I need to do my front discs and pads on my mk5. You make it look so easy so hopefully I can save myself a garage bill LOL. Thanks again keep the videos coming.
its habit... the wheels on these taxis are on and off so often and i find many wheel studs get stripped due to dry, dirty threads so having a bit of lubricant helps them
Another great video. My next door neighbor cleans his new disc with WD40! Offered him brake cleaner. But he said he's always done it that way. Alarming as he used to work for the RAC and run his own garage! Guess they'll never squeal!!
@@onsight2822 he's not mate. I've sat and watched him doing it. Every time I say "here, use this brake cleaner I have. Meant for the job!" And he declined and carrys on with WD40! As he's always done. Dunno how he's not dead in a ditch with brake failure. But there you go.
Ciao Alan... Buon ferragosto Grazie per il video 👍 " Con qualche capello in più , potevi essere Edd China" 😜😜😜 Hi Alan ... Happy mid-August Thanks for the video 👍 "With a few more hairs, you could be Edd China" 😜😜😜
You can always tell when someone works on their own vehicle (or one they have responsibility for) - that's when the grease comes out to stop disks sticking to hubs or to wheels etc so it's easier next time. Most mechanics don't bother since they probably won't see that vehicle again. Bit surprised at no copper slip on the brake pins.
Good tip is unscrew bleeder screw before you squeeze piston. It avoid pushing back all black dusty brake fluid up. Another thing is you should clean wheel hub before putting new disc. Good for life piston is red rubber grease and for brake pads and carrier silicone grease.
Hmmm well if your brakes are in normal shape you won't be pushing any dusty fluid to system. Though I agree that it is nice way to keep them nipples in good working order and to prevent that reservoir to overflow and obviously very good idea when changing fluid at the same time.
My thoughts on this cut out It makes the pad sit slightly off parallel and gives the pad a bit of angle of attack . Stops the vibrations that make noises I’m thinking back now and remember mk2 escorts had a shim fitted between the pad that biased one side of the piston it had an arrow as well
Morning Alan 😁 What a way to start the day a coffee and mondingo video from you 👍🏻 I could watch you all day mate 😆 How about Monica doing the lube job hehe 😂 Have a great day until the next video thanks Stevie 😎
Had our mark 5 estate done this June 2021 at 6 & 1/4 years old with original front discs pads replaced at 72,000. Had rears done annual service before, put that excessive wear down to being electric handbrake despite the mass of the braking being on the fronts discs to stop car. (Spoke to Ford about it who agreed with fronts in such good shape backs shouldn’t have been 70% worn so gave me a 50% refund on rear brake replacement that became 100% when dealer took too long to give the refund back. Very well treated by Ford 👍.)
@@Badgertronix Totally agree with you that Ate system slider pins are shouldn't be lubricated!It's a well known fact!But you need to clean them before they go back!Caliper carrier MUST to be cleaned and lubricated in places where in contact with break pads to provide break pads proper movement.
I remember when i changed both front pads and discs on my Mk7 facelift fiesta at 15k miles odd and i had to whack 7 colours of sh*t out the passenger side disc to the point it had physically bent at the top and bottom it was that sized to the hub. All that because of a design flaw with the MK7 fiesta.
One tank's worth of kilometres, driving nice and easy, not letting them get too hot aka avoiding heavy braking. Peace. These days many brake pads don't really need bedding in. I use Carbon Fibre X semi metallic hybrid pads now (relatively new product for commuter vehicles), around $100-120 AUD for either end of the vehicle.
I always thought that the brake fluid reservoir cap had a tiny pinhole in it to allow for this. It is tiny so practically no air circulation occurs saturating the brake fluid with moisture.
Just replaced the very badly worn discs and pads on my 2008 mk4, front left had cracked and I had to cut them of with a grinder.. Would have appreciated if some one had put copper grease on when they where installed. :P
Those 2-part Ford wheel nuts are awful! After a few years water gets between the core and case, swelling it up. Then the onboard wheel brace won't fit on, so if you get a flat you won't be able to replace the wheel at the roadside. So adding some grease before that happens is certainly a very good idea. How Ford have avoided having to do a recall for these nuts I do not know!
Hello Alan, Did you get the answer for the back cutout from the pads? It is a minor thing in the whole changing process, but it's important the right fitting. And that's why the inner pad is different: left and right.
I love all your videos but! *You didnt copper slip the pad ears *You didn't clean the slider pins and use the special grease... You put grease on the studs and wheel nuts but thats a super no no..
The basics are the best sometimes! Do you always use the Ford parts for warranty reasons or because you have a known part and not a factor who might change supplier often?
Why would you want brake dust to stick to the pads for isn't that what those sticky cardboard shims do Think it's rare you use copper grease now it's more silicone grease Health and safety don't like copper slip
🤣 Easy-peaay job ,? -only if you have an air gun!!. Nearly broke my fingers trying to get the caliper bolts off manually, as when car is on the floor (typical home garage/roadside) you have little room for a breaker bar. And also for crying out loud, why doe Euro cars use allen keys for the pad carrier bolts? Everybody else uses good old bolts, no need for buying a set of Allen keys as I did! Good video
Hi Alan, much appreciate the helpful tutorial videos. Do you have the part number for the motorcaft front brake discs? As my front brake pads match the part number in this video (MEDG9J-2K021-EE) on my Ford Mondeo Mk5 2.0, but my local Ford dealship are unwilling to give me the part number for the discs. Kind regards Will
I would have thought you would have greased the slider pin and clean the the carrier and greased the back of the pad. Sorry to pick but it is safety. Other wise a great video.
Hi Alan I've now got my discs and pads to fit. I noticed you didn't use any copper grease on backs of the pads. can I just put them in as you did? Only reason I ask is I've always put grease on my pads. Cheers Jon
hi jon, i don't see any point in putting copper grease on the backs of the pads..if i were to use copper grease it would be where the pad sits in the carrier but on the mk5 mondeo i have never had pads seizing in the carrier so i don't use the grease
although I'm no expert, but regarding brake pad directionality you mention at 5:07, it might be that the contact pattern between the metal plate and the friction material can be somewhat directional - stronger in one direction. I'm referring to this video that I saw about how the pads are made: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-H1WXlHONorw.html
Hi Alan. I've got a mk4.5. Got the car with ATE brakes and the pads were clunking even at the slightest brake in reverse, clunk bank with the first brake going forward and go away. I've changed disc and pads, again with ATE. And enjoyed the silence for about 2 weeks, and these one started clunking also. What's going on? Could I get 2 bad ATE sets? They are new, so I'm not throwing anymore money on this. But have you ever got this issue?
