Thank you for sharing your experience with everyone. The best two teachers are time and experience. Love that there was no foul language. Seems to be hard to find videos without it.
Thanks for your video buddy of mine just got a 66 Fairlane 500 with a 289 2barrel and asked me to give him a hand probably the best Ford 2.barrel video I've seen so far hands down and I've watched a lot over the last three day
Great video, explaining how each part works. No foul language, I learned a lot thank you. I,m workin on a 68/ f250. with 360. its great to work on old school vehicles . Thank you again !!!
Can't thank you enough! Now i have the knowledge to work with this type of carb. I recently bought a square body chevy truck in which the previous owner adapted/installed a 2150 carb to a 350sb. Theres a high pitched metallic rattle noise im hearing around the carburetor. No idea if its the carb itself, but im more confident to troubleshoot & re- tune if i need to. Thank you
Good job on explaining how and why it works most other videos on this just show how to change the parts. I watch your other videos I didn't know you were also into cars!
Great Video, Thanks for your knowledge in doing this. I'm glad to see you put a new fuel filter on the front as well. I'll be doing this soon to my 2150 2bbl
Oh wow thanks alot. This channel has been on a strike for two weeks. I supposed to be able to post again today. And so this weekend I'll be starting a channel on just kind of content. I'll still be reporting and trying to help save America. I'm on rumble as one word, WilliamArchibald. I'm really trying to build that channel up so I can get the word out about what the left is doing. Thank you very much for watching. ✌️😁🧂
I just did what you did on a 2150 and put it on my 77 cj5 jeep it started up and and ran great. Went for a drive and couldn't get over a speed bump started missing went back to my shop and pulled the carb off to find gas in the power valve cover. Did a vacuum test on the 2 stage all ok. Put it back in new gaskets and went for a drive same thing happened. So I rebuilt my 2100 did what you did put it on and went for a drive again back to my shop found gas in the powervalve cover what gives. So this time I put gas in the carb with power valve cover off and gas dripped through the 2 stage power valve. So I put a single power valve in that came with the carb kit, no leak. Put it on my jeep went for a drive. dang it, back to the shop. What is going on. Took it off the jeep. I went back to the 2150 bought two 2 stage power valves from mikes carburator shop. Showed him mine that had no # he had 1 that looked just like mine but was unidentified no # . And I bought 1 that was a 9 - 5. My vacuum is at 20 at idle every time I start the jeep. Installed the unidentified one even tested it with my mighty vac. Held vacuum, put gas in the carb, no leaking so I put it on the jeep and went for a drive, dang it, back to the shop. Took it off , gas in the cover. What's going on. Got on google saw this guy having the same problem and he figured out that if you go to harbor freight and pick op the o ring kit 180 Vinton you won't have this problem again. You might see his video, anyway ,I took the 2150 apart checked it all over again found the unidentified 2 stage not holding vacuum, so I put the other 2 stage in that was 9-5 used the papper gasket that came with the power valve mikes carb sold me put it on the jeep and went for a drive , and I don't know yet but back to my shop I go. Jeep not running good. I know I was not over tightening the power valves ,screws, went through like 8 carb gasket to block and the other gaskets and took my time doing everything the correct way. Getting hesitation from 1 to 2nd Geer, sometimes at idle the motor just quits. But starts up and idle is OK. Changed the egr valve new plug wires, hei dist new, this motor is like new, all new parts. Good vacuum at 20 . Dinking around with the egr and found that when the temperature opens the egr that's new and holding vacuum the motor starts to act up. When I plug the egr the motor runs like a top. But when I go for a drive , back to the shop I go. What gives. I'm at the point I can't figure out what's going on. So I just saw your clip and I have done everything you did and more. My timing is spot on at 5 degrees BTDC. The 304 motor at idle is perfect, 750 rps, no ported vacuum running great. But for some reason I'm having problems with the power valve . Looks like I need to remove the 2150 and get the Vinton o ring for the power valve. Do you have this problem working on a 2100 or the 2150 MC. I wish you were around to help me figure this out. Really liked your video and I watched it like 5 times to see if I missed anything. I did see I don't have the spring thing you pushed on the vanchury, but yours looked like it was older than mine. Any ideas why I can't stop the leaking with the power valves. I tried lithium grease, hi lamar, on the gaskets . It's been over a year working on my jeep golden eagle that I bought new in 1977 for $6.000. 00 .
Fantastic video and very informative! I appreciate your enthusiasm and knowledge explained patiently and thoughtfully. I’ll be rebuilding the 2bbl on my 390 in my 1968 Ford Galaxie. I’ve got a steady idle but really low vacuum. The timing is set to factory specs. No vacuum leaks. Any suggestions? Thanks so much!
@@williamarchibald9826 I have done it twice. 1st time was a nightmare before power made The second time was an absolute screamer ,that one had a 4:11-1 ring out back.
Thanks. I have a question. The 3/8" thick Carburetor Mounting Gasket (Fel-Pro 60320) has a 3rd 1/2" that mates directly to the base of the Motorcraft 2150 carb. My original gasket does not have that 3rd hole. Is that 3rd hole required to be there? Most of these gaskets that I see for sale have the third hole. This is on my 1979 360ci Jeep Wagoneer. My last question is that this same new gasket is not really flat to the carb. An old timer said I should put it in the oven and get it warm or it won't seal. Do you agree? Thanks, John PS I just subscribed. Best Carb video I have ever seen. Thanks again.
thank you for the video on carb rebuild. i have a 1983 mercury cougar 3.8 motor and im having a problem with adjusting my carb idle control. i can start the car but it will only run as long as i keep my foot on the pedal and as soon as i take my foot off the pedal it stalls. is there a video on adjusting the carb to bring back normal idle for this car? thank you.
Hey man I got an old 72 Ford Ranger with this same carburetor. I don’t really want to take it apart and clean it because I won’t be using it that long. It’s a running driving truck btw so it’s not that bad. But I had an idea… I want to disconnect the fuel pump and let the truck run out of gas in the carburetor and fill the fuel bowl with seafoam and let it sit overnight so it’ll clean the main jets and pump it through the accelerator pump.. Can I fill the bowl through the bowl vent tube? Seafoam cleans really good and it’s not harsh on rubber components… It’s puffing a little black smoke when I hit the throttle and running a little rich but I just want to try that before I take it apart and adjust the float or the accelerator pump. Thanks in advance, great video btw I can tell you know what you’re talking about. I’m not really a carb guy but I’m gonna try to learn more since I got that old truck…
great video, very good info. Do you have a video that shows you plumbing in vacuum lines in? if a guy took them all off and didnt make note of where they went. lol. i do have the vacuum diagram on the truck but doesnt make sense.
I have the same exact motorcraft 2150 carburetor my question is. I'm capping off the EEC port on the top center front of the carburetor but how will that effect the function of the arm from the accelerator pump to that white plastic or ceramic piston part of the EEC port ? And also is that white plastic or ceramic piston rebuildable with the carburetor kit ? Does it have a seal ? Thanks
I have a 84 ford f 150 ..302 an it loses its prime like when it's parked over night...have to actually pour little fuel in carb b4 it will start ....but once tha motor is hot an ye run little bit it'll start right up .....what's maken it do that
Hello, not many people out there know the ins and outs of these magnificent pieces of equipment out there anymore. Now days everyone just buys new! Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us. This brings me back a lot of memories when I used to sweep a shop when I was little and I used to watch the mechanic taking carbs, starters, alternators and rebuild them all. Amazing! Now I have my own little problem, I have a 1973 Ford F100 302 Engine Two Barrel Carb, It starts with starting fluid but then dies, I add a little spike of gas in the carb and it runs until it burns it off. I replaced the fuel pump and still does the same thing. Do you think it's the carb? The foat that could be stuck?
Hello, turns out bad accelerator pump diaphragm and bad fuel mechanical pump. Hot them both replaced and truck runs now. But now I have gas gouging out of the vacuum line on top of the carburetor. I don't remember disconnecting anything from it, is the float supposed to stop gas from entering the gas chamber when full?
Yes, the Motorcraft 2150 stayed the same when it came to its design and operation from the early 60s up to the early 80s and many Ford small and big block, FE and the M's
