Long time 7.3 owner, I currently own 3. Issues for loss of power: cam position sensor (Ford seems to have this fixed with new sensors). Fuel tank pickup 3x (all different vehicles), be sure to eliminate the in-tank filter when you do this, and cut the fuel fill line inside the tank to allow easier filling of the tank (search for harpoon and hutch mod). Fuel Injector control module FICM, probably need a mechanic with a good code reader to diagnose this one. As you mentioned low oil level, or pump failing. EXhaust gas valve. Injector wiring harness. I have put well over 1M miles on 7.3s and still love them, obviously. If I bought another one used I would pull the fuel tank and fix the pickup issue quickly, if it was not already done. It is better to eliminate the filters and the plastic foot, and replace with metal tubing. That plastic foot will eventually crumble and cause you to run out of fuel at ~1\4 tank on gauge and the pieces will clog the filters. Oh and of course bad injectors can cause power loss issues. Keep your oil changed regularly to keep a 7.3 healthy. Keep up the great videos.
Ficm is 6.0 only. 7.3s have an idm (injector drive module). They are both injector computers, but they look completely different. The 6.0 ficm is right behind the intake and under the coolant Degas bottle on top of driver side valve cover, and the 7.3 idm is in the drivers side fender behind the fender liner on super duty trucks
Dang , I am sorry that so much money was spent on needless "repairs" at parts changer shops . The shop should refund ALL of the money spent on unneeded parts ! Thumbs UP to you two !
Really good information!! Sorry to hear Megan got ripped off so bad from the one shop. I have a 1999 7.3 4x4 Ambulance. Died on me, would not start. Took it to a Diesel Mechanic he replaced a fuse and got it running. As he said, we have not found the problem and can't get it to replicate so we can't charge you ... it's going to happen again. It did 2 weeks later and I took a chance that it was the fuel bowl heater because of the fuse. Replaced it and all is well. Love my mechanic!! Don't find many like him any more!
SO glad you guys have got this resolved. What a needlessly long and frustrating struggle that turned out to be. I’m sure someone else down the road will be grateful you made this video which may save them the headaches you and Meagan have faced with this van. Looking forward to seeing how Meagan’s van build finally comes together.
Should be but unfortunately its civil,I’d be a mushroom cloud laying mf’er on that first shop that couldn’t diagnose the problem properly. The proper resolution to the issue would be to find a competent shop, something that is not always easy to do.
Im a retired HD mechanic and also have a 7.3 - I highly suggest a OBD11 scanner forscan - it will diagnose It will save a lot of money on repairs you do not need - it will diagnose a faulty EBP system . Some people unhook the sensor and hook the sensor through a switch , turning it into an exhaust brake - A faulty ebp causes a n exhaust restriction making the engine hard to start when cold . Another poor fuel economy no power is a tubs front of enginre right side theres a sensor tube runs to right exhaust manifold , tube carbons up ,
Thank you SO much for this video. You are very clear/succinct in your delivery and that's very appreciated. Have the exact same issue, and am going to go and try these fixes on my '97 F-450 7.3L diesel (converted ambulance). Will try to remember to get back with updates. I "liked" this and Subscribed. Good work; very impressed.
Update: I had a radiator flush done (coolant looked old and with some residuals). I cannot believe the difference in the power! It's magnificent! Am still going for checking other items. Thought I'd start with the biggest out points. Again, will update further as I go.
Some of the ford tanks were also known to have an inner coating that would separate and plug screens etc. I ditched the screens and put a racor ahead of the pump, easier to check and change. Glad you found the problem
My 7.3l is still at the dealership year and a half and still waiting. Damn that loaner truck sure does drive nice. Glad you had someone that could fix it in a timely manner. 😂😂
Glad you found a good shop to diagnose it properly and not just fault out the pump saying that it’s the cause. Instead they correctly diagnosed a problem without throwing the part at it.
Those fords are also known for fuel tank delamination. Whatever coating they used inside the tank would come off and clog those screens. I have owned 3 7.3 trucks. Excellent motors with a few quirks. Carry an extra cam position sensor in the glove box!
I add a fuel pressure gauge to every 7.3 I work on. Can give you a very early heads up. Sorry you got screwed around by a clueless shop. Invest in a regulated return system. The FRx from Riff Raff is your cheapest angle and there's a bunch of others that do the same thing for a lot more money. The #8 injector tends to starve for fuel as its at the end of the line. (Drivers rear). Adding this to your fuel system will make your injectors a lot happier and noticeably quieter. You may have even noticed less clatter after you got the fuel pickup modified. The factory pickup tends to suck air back into the system when it's worn out. And with that Hydra I hope some gauges were added? EGT, Boost and Trans temp are all mandatory with a tuned 7.3. One more... get an OBD dongle and the Torque app or ForScan (works best on a lap top). Being able to talk to the computer can save SO much headache. Regular scanners can't read the 7.3. Also gives you the option for more monitoring of crucial systems. Beauty rig! Glad you got it sorted.
Yes. 10 years of owning a 2000 VW Jetta TDI, almost 200K miles and I used the white bottle Power Service Diesel Fuel Supplement for enhanced lubricity, just a few ounces as recommended for my size fuel tank. This was especially important because during my ownership of that car, the sulfur volume in diesel fuel was very substantially reduced here in Illinois by either state or national mandate and as we know, sulfur contributes to lubricity.
Thanks for the tips .. Been getting some power loss pulling up hill here in the Rockies with our Powerstroke 7.3 F250, I'll check a few things you mentioned.
I’m so excited for both of you. Meagan, continued prayers for a full recovery both for you and your ride. Jason, you are amazing in so many ways. Great video and I’m sure there are gas tanks dropping across this country as you helped them solve a mystery.
Wow, Jason you are becoming quite an expert from this project. I am passing some tips to my farmer friends who have deisel tractors. Meagan, take it easy and don't do too much at once. You look great! The fresh air and sunshine has been working it's magic.
I've always been a firm believer in Power Service diesel Cetaine boost and fuel system cleaner, plus winter anti-gel treatment. Here in Colorado it's a must come winter or you'll be 'one of those guys' in the morning on a below freezing day sitting on the site of the road. Not all stations add winterizer especially in early/late hard freezes. BTW- nice van, I'm sure it will become a nice home.
The lack of resolution on problems in forums is frustrating to me too! I always follow up bc of that. Thanks for your video. I have really enjoyed my 7.3 after 5 years of ownership.
I used a 12 gallon Marine Tank to isolate possible tank and pick up issues. I worked on the 444E (7.3) version for several years while working in a International truck shop. Isolating fuel source is an inexpensive way to real time check hard start/no start and power issues on a International 7.3 E engine, or DT466E. Cummins, Detroit any suspected of fuel delivery problems. I have Seen the lift pump seize in the Valley and break the camshaft in half. The Brand of oil and Level is very important to prevent foaming. Good to hear you resolved the issue. (If She is happy, than so am I)
All these problems, happens to me with a motorcycle, I started to fix them, and then after many months an try and error, I spent so much money I could buy a new one. It seems to me, you're having the same experience. Good luck, let's hope there will not be any more expenses. Stay safe!
Ditto on RU-vid channel's that don't follow through. I put a 12valve in my 86g20 and the damn shop took a year of excuses on delays. Glad I didn't pay up front. I finally told them if they want the rest of the money I would need the van. When I got it plain safety shit was undone, like bolt left loose on my steering. This is a small town and people are admiring the look and sound, so when they ask about who did what. Well let's say that guy will be needing a new career. So now it's much better but I want to be sure it will make a long trip before I start on the inside. I do have all the innards though. It's a beast. Think Mad Max meets Walking Dead. 😎 Good luck with Megan's build. I'm looking forward to all the video's. 👍👍👍
Mine was losing power after it got up to around 1500 rpm . After a lot of smoke from the exhaust and spitting and sputtering for about three minutes it would catch up and run like a champ. It was the easy one . Low oil . Needed 3 quarts . I actually went ahead and changed the oil . Filled it to the correct level . Problem fixed.
In my navy career I’ve only seen bio growth in our jp-5 helicopter fuel once. But the helicopter would get a “phase inspection “ or serviced very regularly. Honestly I thought an anti-algae additive was already in diesel fuel from the pump these days. But I did use and injection cleaner regularly in my VW TDI and usually got 3-5 more mpg on that fill up in that car and it was at 300k miles. However when temps got into the 20’s i used anti gel in the fuel no matter what the diesel pumps said . Got stranded until I could get heat under the car once. What a pain!
Thanks. I love 7.3 powerstroke talk. I gotta 2001 F350. That’s super nice you can get to the back of the engine from the cab. I too deleted that turbo pedestal valve.
Way harder on my ambulance cause all my switch boards i have to pull out my seats and still fight around the doghouse ... Good content not much out there on our vans
While I'm normally a Dodge fan, I just bought a 92 F350 with a 7.3 in. Drove it home 300 miles and around 100 once I got home. Then started losing power and it barely runs 50mph. So, I guess I get to run through these checks. Thanks for the info!
Might want to keep an extra cam-position-sensor in the glove box for the 7.3. Everything else, just pour some Pendleton on it. Seems to work for a lot of other things. Excellent engine for longevity. Take care and God Bless.
If you repair the wire harness that goes over the driver side valve cover, you will never waste time on a cam position sensor again. Unplug it, fold it back, and tape up the spot that is worn through and arcing on the valve cover.
Couple things... I'm a very new owner of a 1999 F350 7.3L Powerstroke, so take this for the free advice it is...😜👍 The wires that you referred to that run under the valve covers are for the glow plugs, but do fail for the those reasons. Becareful on install, it doesn't take much of a pinch & you'll be replacing them. Common issues with the injectors are the O'rings, they seem to fail before the injectors (recommend motor craft) The exhaust valve delete, THANKS I've not heard of this before however like the idea...fuel screens, if you plan on keeping them BE VERY CAREFUL with the O'rings I'm told there are no replacements out there.... I've seen some folks do a fuel bowl-filter delete. I'm not a fan, however the fuel screen delete, replaced by an inline filter like a Napa gold, something that could be replaced with every or every other oil change would be preferable. There is simply to much junk in today's fuel. Another upgrade I'd recommend for your van or any 7.3 is a cold air intake. Opening up the air is a big improvement. Thx for the video...👍👍 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-W53BbnZ5IvY.html
Thanks for all of the info. Us 7.3 van people need this. Mine is an 03 7.3 4x4 that I built myself using the ujor kit. I deleted the ebpv on mine too. The t-stat fitting on mine started leaking and I replaced it with the Sinister Diesel one along with the 203 degree t-stat.
Same thing happened to my 7.3 van. There wasn't any algae, but those intank filters were caked with sand and dirt from 20 years of fill ups. A great way to DIAGNOSE this is fit a fuel pressure guage and drive it. My fuel pressure was dropping from 60psi at idle down to 5-10psi under boost, obviously the engine would nearly die out and van was undriveable. My 2002 was steel tank, no liner to deteriorate, think that's an issue on '99 up SD truck tanks
Super well described With your walk through Wish every one who watches you video would learn on how to properly identify it's symptoms and causes and it's true meanings on parts rather then hand out like slangs and hangs great perspective guys thanks for your awesome English really appreciate you...
HI JASON 👋 JUST DO WHAT YOU BOTH HAVE TO DO SO YOU BOTH CAN RELAX WHEN YOU CAN GET AWAY ! I'M SO GLAD YOU & YOUR FRIENDS FINALLY GOTTEN IT FIGURED OUT . THANK YOU FOR LETTING US KNOW ! VERY HELPFUL ! THE VAN LOOKS NICE CAN'T WAIT UNTIL YOU BOTH START FIGURING HOW YOU WANT TO DO THE LAYOUT FOR THE INSIDE ! BE SAFE ! HAVE FUN ! HOPE YOU BOTH HAVE A GREAT YEAR 👍 GOD BLESS YOU BOTH ALWAYS ON 🙏 YOUR JOURNEYS / TRAVELS ! ENJOYED 🍨 🍨 🍨 🍨 🍨
So glad u got it fix also u can get fuel injector cleaner put in gas tank help clean the gas tank also carburator cleaner put in gas tank maybe that will help clean the engine and gas tank
One more thing, if money is a concern never buy a diesel van/truck. An E350 with a V10 is a better choice. It’s easier snd less expensive to fix and maintain. The first modification is a gear ratio change on the differentials
@Broken Ankle Sports 🏀 The 7.3 uses a dual oil system. A low pressure system to run the fuel injectors and a high-pressure system for the motor. Any diesel motor that uses the oil pressure system to actuate a fuel injector coupled with using a glow plug to get it started is a complicated mess of a motor that only deserves to be used in a commercial fleet with dedicated mechanics and tools that can fix it when it breaks. It is absolutely not a diesel motor that you take into the back country. A Cummins motor with mechanical fuel injectors and no glow plugs is the bare minimum of diesel motors that belong in a austere environment. And even that diesel motor is more complicated to fix when it doesn’t run correctly and or maintain in the way of oil changes and the damage bad fuel or a poor filter maintenance schedule can cause. Gasoline engines are easier and cheaper to maintain. Just the sheer number of auto shops that can work on the gasoline motor versus the sheer number of auto shops they can work on a diesel motor proves the point. Additionally they are much cheaper to get into and therefore you can take that money and use it on other parts of your build. If you lacked work for an off-road vehicle you can regain that by using your differentials as a torque multiplier dieseliq.com/lubrication-system-low-pressure/
Our ship had a diesel tank which held 1.4 million gallons. That right 1.4 million. Our tanks had heaters but we were required to bunker with a special fuel with an an algaecide before we took her to higher latitudes. So yes algae will grow in diesel fuel quite well. The ship was\is 470 feet.
Thank you for the info . I have a 2002 F 350 p/u full banks kit exh. brake. Had to put a hydra tuner in love it. All the things I have to do is minor. Great video thanks again.
I had the same issue and deleted the factory in tank screens and fuel pickup lines. I also added a see through fuel filter on the frame rail before the fuel pump, just to protect the fuel pump.
Have done many up grades to my 7.3, injectors, turbo, intercooler (97), HPOP, up pipes, exhaust, chip. Best up grade was an after market fuel system, 7.3 is picky about its fuel pressure, the stock fuel regulator is before the heads so when the rpms go up, a tired fuel pump dosen't keep the fuel pressure happy at higher rpms. An after market fuel system is a regulated return after the heads, meaning it keeps the fuel pressure the injectors use at the pressure you set it at all the time, regardless of rpms. With the frame mounted pump, spin on filters and spin on water separator, change out is much easier. More so on a van body, you don't even lift the hood. Bleeding the fuel system is also much easier, just turn the key to run. Prob would not have done all the other upgrades if I had changed the fuel system first and yes I did try a stock fuel pump first.
Any and all diesel big or small always start at beginning , I have been around trucks all my life , a friend of ours has a 2019 sprinter , he went back and forth with dealer many times , no power sputtering at altitude and so on , I told him to pull the tank he told me in many words i was crazy because its a new van , we pulled it and it was a peace of tape from the manufacture about 2 inches long flouting around All diesels are prone to contaminated fuel systems and bad fuel lines
One other thing that also happens to the under valve cover injector harness on high mileage 7.3's is the wire insulation can become brittle and literally fall apart causing a short. I had this happen to both sides between 240 and 250,000 miles on my van. Both times I had to replace while on the road and that was not fun. The right bank went on me in your neck of the woods in La Pine. An air ratchet comes in big handy when working on a 7.3 van cause there is barely room to turn a ratchet on some of the valve cover bolts. Unfortunately I don't have onboard air... A new harness can be had from most auto parts stores as a package with a new valve cover gasket and there are clips on the aftermarket product that hold the wires in place on these to prevent the problem you mentioned from happening.
Easy on the road fix. Unhook fuel line before prime pump and take filter off under hood. Use air machine blow filter out and line to the tank out. Works temporarily til able to drop tank out to take off sock and change filter
Ford diesel frustration. They are hard to work on. Powerstroke engines depend on complicated systems to operate correctly. Ford builds in complications to there products, IE: a fuel filter in the tank were it cannot be easily maintained. All three brands get the job done, and all three eventually break down, but if you do your own mechanics or your truck is not under warranty, or extended down time is not acceptable then stick to the brand that’s the easiest to fix ….and it ain’t a Powestroke or Duramax. But if that’s what you have then that’s what you have to roll with. There are several companies online that offer products to either make the engine systems more reliable or delete them all together
Hydra is good. Nice to have a high idle program now that the EBPV is gone and grab a bit of power and economy while your at it. Having firmer shifts is nice to. Google ICP and IPR and show her where they are as well as a cam sensor. These will all leave her stranded, but can be changed on trail. The ICP craps out, you can swap it with a wrench and it's easy access on the top drivers side of the head. The other thing that happens is the oring fails and dumps all the oil into the valley on the motor. When that happens, loss of oil pressure will shut down the motor and leave her stranded. She should also buy a Bluetooth OBD2 dongle. I use a BAFX from Amazon. It's 20 bux and along with downloading Car Guage Pro, it will allow her to perform things like, "buzz" tests on the motor to check injectors/ glow plug connections, balance test, etc etc. It's great for diagnosis. Consider a sump as well for the van. On all my trucks the pickup tube breaks. You'll have fuel but you can't reach it. It's a, "puck" pretty much that mounts to the bottom of the tank and pulls diesel off the bottom. Last but not least.... the IPR needs a very deep socket. Whats cheap, and works, is harbor freight shower valve socket set. It requires (if i remember right) a deep, but thin wall socket. The wrench set isn't a socket so to speak, but it will let you get the job done while the fuel bowl assembly is still installed. There's other things, but those mostly will leave you in the woods. Good luck. I've had my 7.3s all apart. Easy, cheap fixes of you stay ahead of them. Carry extra ICP, IPR and Cam sensor for good luck!!
I've had problems purchasing pre-owned things of value and I've given up. I know countless people buy used vehicles without problems but for me, it has seemed (from a couple cars many years ago to expensive photo gear), people get rid of things because there are issues. It is unbelievable to me how many comments are made on some of the car/truck YT channels I follow in which guys who can't or won't get things fixed just unload the vehicles with a trade-in and let someone else have to deal with it. And call me cynical but I'll bet those owners never fully disclose what the problem(s) are. They just figure "Oh well, let the buyer beware, not my problem anymore." Many issues can be noticed/caught right away, but others are deeper, don't rear their ugly heads right away and end up soaking the new owner to fix, often with a lot of heartache.
I don't know how well the tank pickup filters the fuel, but you will need at least some filtration (maybe 80 micron) to keep the electric fuel pump alive. Direct fuel will have enough trash in it to eventually kill the electric fuel pump. Mercedes diesel cars (80s) have a small pre filter that would work well to protect the pump.
I had a problem with a lesser grade van… oil problem… Long story short, questioned a mechanic of which he gave me a wrong answer: And my previous experience with garage mechanics…. There are mechanics, then there are those who believe themselves to be experts… then there are those who actually work on their own vehicles and learn how to problem solve. I am no mechanic, but at the same I don’t always trust those who view themselves as knowledgeable or expert.
I hope you throughly cleaned the tank while you had it out of the van. The algae grows in diesel because water has gotten into the tank. The only cure is to clean the tank and replace or polish the fuel.
I’ve been dealing with a powerloss issue for about 8 months now, my issue turned out to be the valve cover wiring harness failed creating a lot of resistance to injector number one and eventually taking the whole bank out till it cooled back down again
Good content! I’m starting to work on upgrades for my 1995 E350 Ambulance and I’m wondering what down pipe you’re using there. All I can find is 3” and that looks like a 4” pipe. Hopefully someday it’ll get 4x4 swapped.
We never remove the tank pick up screens. We clean them and reinstall them. Ford has then for a reason. Now the lift pump on the frame has no protection. You still have the old parts. Clean them out and install them back in the tank.
jason, a buddy of mine suggested to add 'standyne' injector cleaner into my fuel tank every other tank full for my 2003 6.6 duramax...seems to run really good