Gonna order a set. Thanx. Think Ford, when designing this shiet, takes into any account of future replacement? Or do they wait till enough of their mechanics deal with several headaches, complain, and then they adjust?
The cheepo ones from harbor freight worked to when I did it on a 96 Lincoln town car, replaced the engine it cause it dropped a valve at about 260k miles
Just an FYI - I have a set of these Gearwrench wrenches AND a set of Husky's. Both are identical, aside from the name on the ratchet. Got a set of 10 wrenches for 50 dollars at the orange store. www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-SAE-Ratcheting-Combination-Wrench-Set-10-Piece-HRW10PCSAE/204759116
Thanks AGAIN! Enjoying my new FordTechMakuloco hoodie... And another great tip. I'm doing a timing chain, oil pump, water pump, thermostat, serpentine belt... on a 5.4L 2v E-150 and I don't think I would have attempted it without your videos. Your tips, parts, and tool recommendations are always spot on! And I like that your videos are not filled with superfluous fluff, just friendly and right to the point, that's it. I'm very grateful and certainly won't hold you responsible for the outcome... LOL...
I love these videos I'm a pretty experienced mechanic but it is very handy to find these videos of occasional jobs I haven't done yet to find the corks, tips and easy ways instead of fighting through it myself. Thank you very much for taking the time to make these videos you are greatly appreciated!!
OKaay...I'm not for stroking egos and it looks like everyone has done that already. So I was just going to stay silent. I went back to watching the video and my brain said "Nope! This guy is a gifted craftsman. The tempo, word choice, tone, patience, clarity, camera placement and steadiness, it is OFF THE CHARTS! I'm joining the chorus to say you are truly gifted. Be thankful for that.
Funny, I just did this in my "03 F250 twice(first pump sprung a leak the day after it was installed during the head gasket job) and I wish I had one of these wrenches! I just used an open end on that bolt and man it took for ever! BTW thanks for the videos, the one about the timing chains helped a ton!
Thank You So Much Brpther!! I Greatly Appreciate You!!! This is my second time replacing a power steering pump in an 07 Expedition and the first time I removed the pulley on the pump to get to that exact bolt! And now tomorrow I'll be pulling the pump using your method! Thank You For Sharing!
I just went to take my pump off thinking I was going to use this advice... that bolt wasn't even there! I just bought this truck to fix it up. Previous owner must've been like, "NOPE!" lol
Same here 07 xlt expedition only 1 bolt but other 2 bolts missing and riding normal. Just found out today as I removing the pump to get the front cover.
Love your videos saves me a bunch of head aches as I've learned after you remove the pump it's easier to pull the power steering high pressure line to change the pump
I wish I would’ve watch this sooner. I did try gear wrench it didn’t fit in there so I did it the headache way 😢 too thick probably the brand of it that dang wrench 😊 thanks for sharing your experience with me the 1& only super ROOFER. With your videos maybe I can play mechanic Wednesday. Thanks again buddy. You’re the best.
I always used a stubby 18mm or a 18mm crows foot to remove the high pressure line. I always bought the pump with the pulley as most times the pulleys were frozen on the shaft and became a real pain to remove. Once I did one in a parking lot using a pair of channel locks as I had not stubby's or crows feet for the high pressure line fitting.
I took the pulley out to get in bolts behind to do my trimming parts and may rod bearings I finally did it I was scared of this engine but now I like it it’s a 2005 no watcher in the back of the crack shaft Thank you again
CAUTION!!! When the gearwrench fits that tightly between whatever obstruction you have and the head of the bolt you are removing, make sure the part indeed will move as you loosen the bolt or your gearwrench will be stuck on the end of the bolt as you cannot reverse it. I love my gearwrenches in stubby and regular length, but you have to be careful that you do not encounter a special circumstance where it would not come off. Love your videos and I've learned a lot.
Brian, a very much needed tutorial on how to change/service the oil filter adaptors/relocators on Ford modulars would do a great service to those of us who have them. I just bought one leaking badly and now have to service it. I'm praying it's just the gasket and not the hoses too. As I understand it the housing itself is discontinued by Ford but there are options to get around this. It would be great if you had the knowledge and info to help on that too in case someone is in need of that. I have no doubt you'd make the best video out there on this. Thank you!
one comment on the ratcheting without the direction lever- be sure not to back a bolt into something and get the wrench stuck. in a case like this steering pump bolt, gearwrench is fine, but watch if your kids ever start using them and back one into a situation where the bolt or wrench has to be cut off to remove it :)
Thanks FordTecMackuloco. You're the Ford Master. It took awhile but I got it with this technique on my 04 F150. Read the comments and it will work on 2004 models. It does help to remove the oil filter or use a stubby. Also i stuck the index finger of my free hand through the pulley into the space between the bolt head and high pressure line to make sure it doesn't back into the line and get stuck. Also I used a Craftsman not a GearWrench brand. Wish I would have known about this before starting the timing job. The pump featured in the video is different than this.
I'm working on an 04 now and noticed that they're different pumps. Is the fourth bolt in the bottom back the bolt that held the reservoir bracket on? Or is there no fourth bolt at all? I'm having trouble finding it.
I realize watching this video that if you remove the oil filter, you have plenty of room to wrench the bottom bolts off. That is not posted anywhere online.
What a coincidence!! I just got done removing my pump. Then I see this video , hot of the press. ! Maybe you have a 6th sense when someone having a tough time . Cuz that was exactly what i was just doing! It took me a long time to get that bolt out. i could not get my gear wrench between the bolt head and high pressure bolt connection. or break it loose with the open end. and missing my regular 10mm. Had the pully puller ready to go when i saw a 10 mm brake line wrench on shelf . :) Early 2004 f150 never had a timing chain replacement . 210k miles. covers coming off in morning . Hoping the Rh valve cover removal is not a battle
U could take the high pressure hose off the knuckle to and then u dont have to worry about that bolt till u put the new pump in and take the old hose off the broke pump
Extra tips/notes:the one in the rear at the bottom is a stud and is easiest to get at with a long 6pt socket and a swivel extension, it tried to get at it with a wrench it doesnt work. The two at the top if you cant get that hose off just use the rachet wrench that he showed or the tedious route with a regular wrench
Thanks for all the videos. I'm currently on the install process of my engine from Powertrain products. I'm installing the power steering pump currently but I only have 3 bolts. This special one I don't recall being there and theres no evidence like a wear mark from where it was. Just curious if you have ever come across this? I have 2005 5.4l 3v. Semper Fi
Doing a timing job on my 04 all from watching your videos, my gear wrench will NOT clear the high pressure line and I’m at a loss for how to get it off, sockets won’t fit, can’t break it loose with another wrench and no way to apply more leverage, any tips?
Unfortunately, mine ('05 Expo) was a studded bolt on the back side...1/4 inch socket with a deep well 10mm, then rigged a 3/8 drive deepwell socket over the handle of the ratchet with an extension in it to make a cheater bar....just cleared the lines under the radiator, and had a great swing trajectory to loosen it.
The expedition is always harder with smaller engine bay. The rear bolts on the valve cover are the worst to reach. If you get these off you can conquer the world.
Another Great Tip!! Thx bruddah. Got a question .. how hard is it to remove the steering pump pulley while the pump is still mounted on the vehicle? Would it help any to do that first in this case?
I have also zipped the pulley off to get to the high pressure line for removal (rotted) and to get to the attachment bolt for pump replacement. Pressed the pulley back on in the chassis when I was completed.
The fitting nut in some cases can be replaced if it leaks or its damaged. Saved me dropping the subframe and getting a new hose in my case. As long as it isn't rusted solid to the tube. F5RZ-3R608-B. Ford power steering pumps come with a black O-ring that is meant to go into the fitting. The white O ring goes on the body of the nut, in a groove. Getting the nut off is tricky but I'stack some plumbing washers in the PS hole and tighten down the hose. It presses it off. Then I snap the new one one. Not sure if that is the best way but it works. I've even reused the nut with a new seal. There is an internal snap ring that retains it on. It is not a flare fitting, the sealing is 100% dependent on that o-ring.
I'm trying to install a new power steering pump and I do have the gear end 10 mm love that thing. I actually bought an entire set for this particular job. I had already removed the high pressure line, that bolt you just took off in the video is broken off in the block. My question is, that high pressure line is not going back in, and I have the pump bolted back in place. Do I have to put that high back in first before bolting the pump back on? Thank you in advance
Great tip in the video! I recently replaced my power steering pump in my 1998 Ford F150 4.2 L. I also changed the the high pressure line, the cooler to reservoir line, and the cooler to rack line. I cleaned out the reservoir and also flushed all the old fluid out and put in brand new Mercon V power steering fluid. I bled the system and all seems good. The only line I ended up re-using was the reservoir to pump hose. I am thinking now, that maybe I should have changed it too. I would have changed it but it was $25 bucks for that little piece of hose. But now I am wondering if the old hose is really ok to use. I just read that old rubber hoses can break down and contaminate your new power steering fluid. Do you think it's ok to leave the old hose in or should I really replace it? Everything else was changed. Thanks!
P.S. The only real issue I am having with the new pump and lines, is I see fluid building on top of the reservoir. I am thinking my cap is leaking, everything else except the very top of the reservoir is dry. I think I am going to get a new cap.
Yeah but how does the high pressure line start to leak after belts been off for a week and has not been driven? I gotta pull the line but dont want to pull the whole thing if it is working and the Teflon seal just crusted off. In the Mojave desert. Bless
Cool fine great ya,,,,, so I have to take the truck apart from the headlights back to get to this point? Do all the coolers have to come out the fan the pulleys all this? On day two of the pump removal and can't get to the high pressure line
hi thank you for all of the nice videos. They are very helpful. I removed my power steering and the bottom bolt was seized in the aluminum and broke off. can I just put the 2 top ones on and run it or do i need to drill out the broken bottom bolt and replace?
1995 Ford F-150 whiney power steering. 300 4.9 lt. Replace hydraulic lines, steering box, pulley, tensor pully, serpentine belt, and have tried 4 remanufactured power steering pumps. I bought a vacuum bleeder kit for my pump. Cannot get whining out of steering. I use type F atf per my manual. I am just trying to find someone with answers. Thanks for any reply.
God tip. But my question is can his be done without the whole front end of the motor removed? I looked at mine when I had my rad out and it was still a pain to get to. My 08 pump is pretty rusted and I expect it may be the next thing to go. But for now it isn't leaking and I left it alone. Is it easier to remove the pulley first? Or even remove the fan to access it better?
Can you take your steering pump off the cord fusion 2011 se ? Or do u have to take the whole assembly down ? Meaning u have to take out the rack and pinion as well
I have a 04 f150 the high pressure fitting is not parallel with bolt it is turned up on one side so the point is closer to the bolt i can't get a ratcheting wrench in there but i can get a standard wrench but can't move it enough. any suggestions?
Assuming the High pressure line is flexible. Are these always flexible? If it is rigid, don't put weight load on it, or it will cause damage to the line.
What will be the easiest way to replace the oil filter housing gasket on a 2002 f150 fx4 5.4? Can removing the power steering pump out of the way be enough to get at the oil filter housing?
Is it normal for the power steering pump to have rust all over it? I got a 2007 f150 and it looks like I could poke my finger through mine it still works just sometimes makes a little wine when i turn.
@@SALVATl0N No I didn't need to replace the pump. Turned out it was just a bad return line, but I ended up having a shop do it. The pump is probably going to be soon.
i‘m、Confused the very back bolt seems to be square and has some kind of tab on it,, is it just a cover for the 10 mm bolt? I’ve been trying to get it off but no luck
I've removed over 70 of those high pressure lines and had no issues ever. I just use an 18mm box wrench and it comes loose. then an 18mm stubby to remove the line. 4 10mm bolts and it is out. I've done it this was before on a 4.2 engine swap once but it was a hassle reinstalling.
I'm trying to remove this pump on my '98 5.4L F150. I can't get to the two upper bolts because there are coolant hoses in the way. I haven't traced them yet, but think they're transmission cooling lines. Is there some way around them? I can see the upper bolt, but can't get on it, even with a universal. The reason I'm replacing the pump is that when I installed the high pressure line, it stripped the threads in the body of the housing. I wasn't torqueing on it, just threading it in with an 18mm crow's foot. It went in easily, but just kept spinning; it never bottomed out. After I backed it out (easily), I was able to push the old fitting right in. The threads were rounded over. Any tips/advice?
It would be nice if you would tell us what size wrench you were using!!! Are they the same size as the top two? What size are those? Good video despite these shortcomings!
any brain storm ideas how to remove the 3 bolts that have been on the pump for 16 yrs? i need help.mine will not budge,at all.sprayed liquid wrench 3 xs today.see how things turn out tomm.
I need help getting the high pressure hose of and pulling the pulley. It's not coming off with a regular puller... 2008 f150 v6 4.2l rwd... do I have to take the hex nut on the inside out first or just pull it... and is it 18mm fitting on the end of the High pressure hose???
