Ford transit front brake job (the right way) 

Thanks and thanks for watching

I've had that happen a few times

No you are right I am so grateful I dont live in the rust belt every day I turn a wrench. I have mad respect for those that wrench in the rust belt

@@medtec6747 yes i wish it was that easy for us buddy 75% of the time we have to cut the brake discs & then hit with a sledge hammer to smash them in half and also cut wheel bearings off and replace discs pads bolts and bearing

@@jordanfinlay1410 I’m about to use the sledge, mines stuck via corrosion 😂

If the rubber mallet fails… before destroying the assembly by chiseling, hammering, or cutting, wedge a two foot piece of 2x4 between the rotor and bearing hub and use it as a lever. Work it with a sledge until the hub or whole assembly comes off.

You are right. I don't always practice the best safety.

Thx, MrMobile, good info, just needed to add a time stamp

So you couldn't work for a week because your finger hurt? I'm revoking your man card.

@@stefanpufferyeah. I had tissue and bone damage to my index finger. But don’t worry. It’s all healed and will fit nicely in your eye.

Owwie. Wish I didn't read that!

Thank you sir and yes I will the front hardware is all from Ford

i saw that the other day that is handy huh

No problem!

As long as no fluid has been added to the system there is no way to over pressurize the master cylinder. If it's not your vehicle take a peek at the master cylinder before you push the calipers back and if it's full (like to the max fill level) then suck some fluid out before pushing them back and leave the cap off while you do. But like I said as long as you haven't added fluid to the system there will be no issue. The little rubber diaphragm in the master cylinder cap that follows the brake fluid down as the calipers push out will simply just get pushed back into its retracted position.

Lol thanks they are Caterpillar

Ford was asking for over $1000 for a front brake job. But considering everything being done by the book, most of that cost is hardware. I passed and paid a friend to do it for $200.

You can do one side at a time no problem

it may be a good idea to use some heat and penetrating oil as they use loctite from the factory.

our wheel bearings on these ambulances are notorious for making noise shortly after doing brakes. these trucks get driven pretty hard into the corners so we just replace them every other brake job.

@@medtec6747 what kind of noise does a wheel bearings make? Is it a whoo whoo …? At slow speeds? Mine seems to be doing that. Thank you for all your help you’re doing a great job.

Yes its not a hard sound so much but it's a rhythmic oscillation that speeds up and slows down with the vehicle speed and when you make a turn it will speed up or slow down depending what side it's coming from

Hoses on these are a piece of cake and if you have any doubt in the hoses whatsoever ie mileage, apperence etc you should go ahead and replace them it's real cheap insurance

The vss is also the OSS and lives inside the transmission and is a part of thr molded leaf frame assembly. It's a common problem because metal shavings end up building up on the sensor and causing a faulty reading. We've had some try ro shift into 4th while going 80 mph because of it.

Harbor freight its their 1/2" drive torx set

I bought the same but does not reach. Mine is a the t350 hd dually

Ahh gotcha didn't know it was for a dually give these a try I have them they are a good set they just rarely get used www.toolpan.com/Sunex-Tools-2638L--10-Piece-12-Drive-SAE-Impact-Hex-Driver-Set--6-Long_p_40857.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjwi7yCBhDJARIsAMWFScNRo3LrioYyci31rKWb3bipN--wk8EUv25ijZDi0xBSififYXlGKW8aAqRXEALw_wcB

I do love wrenching in Oklahoma. Everytime I watch someone in the rust belt work I pour one out for yall

Shoot some penetrating oil on the bearing at the back tap the knuckle a few times with a hammer then tap the rotor from the back side alternating each side until she pops out.

@@medtec6747 Thank you for your reply, did as you said and after a good beating it came out 👍

Did you use a new aftermarket rotor I had an aftermarket rotor hit the knuckle and had to take it all back apart and go with a ford rotor

@@medtec6747 yes rotor and bearings were both aftermarket, after a bit of research im thinking I might have got the wrong bearings, is VKBA 7086 sound the right part number ? Feeling foolish mate.

Mitchell prodemand

On the older systems you could activate the containment switch if you push back too quickly but the brake system is a contained and sealed system. So you are just putting the fluid back to the reservoir. Now you should do a brake flush periodically I have a video in here showing our brake flush procedure on the transit

Will do they will be in the description

I don't know but there's no reason you cant

I just lift with a cross bar on my floor jack put under each side of the crossmemebe where the lower a frames attach and lift it up and place both jack stands at once

Thank you sir!

the only real difference I can see is that if you have dual rear wheels the bolts that hold the rotor on are different and their torque is 81 lb-ft

My question too 🤔

they are supposed to so check before you leave. Its been my experience that when they need caliper bolts the dealerships will often rob them out of the brake pad kits but still sell them later and screw the customer.

@@medtec6747 thank you

@@medtec6747 do you know what the difference between ck4z2c150d and ck4z2c150e? i just need the bolts. Hugh price difference 25 dollars vs 5 dollars.

Had kind of a metallic clunking going over rough road, with 2017 T150, looked behind the front right wheel and, whoa, 1 caliper bolt half backed out (threads beat up too!) & one missing.. these are the bolts you remove to slide the caliper off of the pads. Went in to dealer, they listed what they thought was that bolt, at about $25.. they said none in stock, no history of ever ordering.. probably some system glitch. But I went to O'reilly, in their Dorman parts rack there was a 4-pack of grade 10.9 hex flange M10 x 1.25 x 30mm, about $5 - almost the same, the original was about 31mm long - could have got the 35mm ones & cut down - if it was spec'ed as 31 long the stackup must have been tight, like to standardize around 5mm increments. But I did use loctite on them!

I dont know the answer to that I've never tried it are you trying to convert to 5 or 6

They should be interchangeable, but I will confirm that once I get my brake job done on my dually. If you takeoff your wheel, you will see that it only has 5 T50 bolts just like all the others.

The rotor bolts are a 13mm the wheel bearing bolts are the torx and they are a T50

It’s a full-size transit van. 🚐

I think its partly because they don't want rusty bolts being reused and partly because they want to make more money in the parts department. Like I said if they aren't TTY then I don't think it's a danger to wire brush them off and put some fresh loctite on them but I would only do that for my vehicle. The manufacturer really puts the liability ball in your court by telling you they are one time use. And you are right I really should be wearing safety glasses more its a bad habit to break.

@@medtec6747 and gloves when working with brake clean...

We are an ambulance company so I don't really have rates.

It's in the description

I am blessed to be wrenching in the south

? Which part are you talking about?

I understand it can be daunting but if you follow my steps and just take your time you've got this

Oh, it's only brakes, what's the worse that could happen? 😃 On the one hand, we hands-on guys like to encourage people to give it a go. On the other hand, we don't know what your level of mechanical aptitude or experience is. Your call!

They are known for rusting in you may have to beat it out

@@medtec6747 thanks didn't want to hit it that hard but it worked

for some hardware its because its torque to yield meaning the bolt has undergone plastic deformation. the hub to rotor bolts for example. for the others all I can say is because the manufacture says so.

It has the same result either way but it sure is less effort to push down with your body weight!

Rear pads on the Transit last 20-30k miles for me. Front pads 60k miles.

Wait until you do transmission fluid and filters on this beast lol

I used to have a collection of various mechanic hand soaps and now they go unused because I found a good brand of mechanic's gloves. Just easier at wash up time! I use bath soap. I also "wash my hands" with bath soap while wearing gloves and clean up the gloves and let them dry out, too. And yes, of course, chemical nasties. Why absorb them?