I hope a fluid change will fix my problem. The wrench came on, and the truck went into limp mode. I pulled in a parking, shut off the truck, restarted it and drove fine. But 1 mile later, nothing came on the screen butafter stopping at a light, I hit the gas and the truck was very lethargic. Also the speedometer wouldn't read and the odometer went to dashes.
Ihave a 2009 f150 4.6l 4speed with 246,000 miles ive changed filter fluid 3 times never had an issue with the trans knock on wood but it cannot hold up forever.
I have a 2014 ford raptor and it sometime have hard up shift and down shift. I did the fluid flush and filter change at the local ford dealership and I did the trans relearnd and it's still act up time to time. Could it be a lead frame and valve body issue?
bump as it feels like the rear end hits a bump even do theirs no bump in the road sometimes it gets bad if I gun it hard it will tend to slam really hard in the back and other times you can hardly feel it at all buts it's annoying
I was told that my Mechatronics unit was bad. I have a major shudder at 1250 and 2000 rpm under light acceleration. The dealer wants $1800.00 to replace. Does this sound reasonable? Thanks! I have 169k on my 2010 4.6L XLT.
Man, I can't tell you how long I've been looking for this exact information on my 6R80! Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge and experience(s) with these. You're a time- and money-saver!
I bought a 2012 F150 with 81,000 miles on it a couple of weeks ago. I've been watching your videos so I can learn about it, and I'm glad that the transmission seems to be a decent unit. This video and the fluid changed video you posted make it look like the transmission is fairly easy to service and repair, also.
Sup bro i like your videos. I have a few questions im getting these obd codes on my 2011 f150 ecoboost p0741,p1744 with the wrench logo on dashboard,transmission shifts fine i was wondering if i replace the fluid would that make the codes go away? Or could there be something more serious wrong with it?...
Thank you for all of your videos...very excellent technical information. I had my 2011 F150 Ecoboost transmission serviced at the dealer a few months ago at about 32,000 miles, and on the bill, I noticed that there was a charge for only 4 quarts of fluid. I asked them why only 4 quarts, and they said that they cannot get the rest of it out! Right away I knew something was wrong, and now I know that they were apparently either not knowledgeable about the 6R80, or were just too lazy to do the whole procedure, and I know they did not clean the doughnut, or change the filter by your videos. Now I have to find a shop that will do it right. In the past I did all of this work myself...even had a drain plug installed in my last truck to make it easier to empty the transmission pan...and that worked GREAT! But it is getting less desirable at 70 years old to crawl underneath and do those things. Thanks again for your videos...top notch. (I really liked the one on the "Catch Can" as well.
FordTechMakuloco is ther any gaskets between the valve body and transmission? I notice some machined surfaces on the trans and valve body when I took mine off but there was no gaskets. At 9 minutes 43 seconds that is an example of the machined surface that mates to the trans.
@@FordTechMakuloco My wife’s 2017 Ford Explorer transmission fluid up and disappeared with no signs of leaks…I’ve read that there is some issue with the vacuum modulator…is this accurate and if so, do you have a video on how to repair/replace that part? How complex is this repair and what should I expect to pay at a shop if I took it in to get done? Thank you in advanced!
I wish I would have known about that trans flush issue 3 weeks ago. My complete engine long block assembly was replaced under warranty for bottom end noise and I asked them to do a trans service while it was there. They charged me $205 for the trans flush and i probably have a really clean trans oil cooler for $205.00
Is there anyway the thermal bypass valve can be manually opened? Well, i guess not or somebody would have posted it. anyway, I highly doubt a dealership is going to spend the time getting my trans temp up to the required temp to open that valve. Plus I don't like the idea of my F150 being dogged while up on a lift just to get the temps up. 99% of the public would have no idea about the valve needing to be opened to completely change all the fluid. They pay for 15 quarts and really only get a portion of that changed. I found a reputable auto repair shop that will do it by just dropping the pan and changing the fluid that way. He seemed knowledgable about the thermal bypass valve too. Every Ford dealership I called said they don't drop pans, flushes only. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Very nice and informative video! I took my 2009 F150 SCREW to a local shop for something else but asked for a tranny fluid change while there. Dude told me his mechanic said it was a 3 hour job and they didn't want to do it! I told him it wasn't, just drop the pan, clean, and put back on. I actually argued with the service rep for awhile then told them forget it. I think they didn't have a coolant flush machine or something. Very odd at me arguing for someone to take my money. Oh well, I have a filter and will do it myself this weekend. Thanks again!
Your videos are AWESOME. Thanks so much for making them. Recently my 2012 Navigator, which has the 6r80 trans in it started misbehaving. At first it was just very minor shift issue .. slightly hard shifting .. shift points feeling like they were just a smidge off (especially 2>3). But recently when I started the vehicle, the speedometer didn't work and the on-dash display shows dashes for most items. The tach still worked. An ignition cycle cleared everything up for a short period of time, but it recurred several times. Eventually it threw a P0720 (output speed sensor circuit malfunction). So I am thinking I need to start with replacing the moulded lead frame. I've never gotten tangled up with a transmission, but am generally comfortable with working on my car. Is this something you slightly better than average DIY'er can do?
Hi, I have seen a lot of your vidoes and I think that only you can give me the solution to my Ford F150 2013 3.7L because I have been with p0a5b code for more than a year and I have made several arrangements and I do not give with problem I have still changed the throttle body, pcm , pedal position sensor, trasmission harness, and still nothing wow! I am very wrong with this situation, I like my truck I think Ford is my favorite my wife has explorer 2017 and I feel very good with this car, so please can you tell me. Thank you
I have not had any issues with mine but I agree the Ford dealer will not want to drop the pan to change the fluid and filter. They want to do a flush. I made my dealer put a new filter in at 90k and show me the old one.
That was SOOO funny that you brought up The taste of a fluid. You ain't a REAL mechanic 'till you taste a couple of automotive fluids in a few of those instances when you didn't know it would come apart so fast or "guess my head shouldn't of been right there". Just learning I had my mouth right under the lower radiator hose and thought I could crack it open nice and easy seee. Nope this one came all the way off, now I know why cats love antifreeze!
Hello and thanks for your video. I own a early 2010 Ford F150 Raptor SVT. Had a cracked main pump seal and solenoid error codes. I ordered a remanufactured valve body complete with calibrated solenoids. This valve body comes with solenoid strategy code and valve body id code. However when scanning with Forscan, there appears to be no PCM Control Module listed with Characterization Update feature listed to enter in these codes that new valve body came with .Question: is there no need to enter in a new solenoid strategy code and valve body id code because this older style used a TCM built into the lead frame and different type of solenoids? Can I get away with just erasing the old adaptive table, and then drive it for the relearn process as outlined? Forscan told me that even the Ford IDS Software does not support reprogramming of a new valve body solenoid strategy code, or valve body id number on my early model 2010 6R80 . What gives, I’m very confused. Please help, thank you. 👍
So, theres no valve body gaskets with the 6R60? I saw your video on the valve body gasket blowouts causing shift issues on the 5R55S and was wondering if the 6R series X-missions do the same.
Hi there brother love your videos. I’m having a issue with my 2010 f150 king ranch, 5.4l 3v 136,000 miles my transmission feels like it’s jumping in and out of over drive at around 70-80 mph and sometimes shift hard around 60mph I have maintenance my Transmission fluid often . I flushed it out at 65,000 and at 120,000 new oil and filter and I disconnect the cooler lines to flush out the torque converter oil 1 quart at a time by turning truck on and off , dumping out one quart and filling it back up, Can you please give me some Ford knowledge brother. I’m a good mechanic but I don’t have all the expenses, Ford scanning tools .
You just answered a question I posted on one of your other videos regarding change intervals. However, when I do my 30,000 mile fluid change, how many quarts will this actually change? Great videos, kind of like having my own Ford tech on staff. Keep it up. !
I recently bought an 07 Sport Trac 4.6L, 148k miles 6R60 early shifts from 10-15mph 1st gear to 2nd lags then kicks in late. All of my other shifts are very smooth, occasionally when decelerating to a stop it will also jerk. I have been watching your videos, my plan is to start with a drain & change the filter and refill with the Mercon SP. It should help with just that right?
Hi! Recently found (and subbed) your channel. Lots of great info on here. My question is, is my local dealer full of it? I recently purchased a used 2009 F-150 4.6 3V Supercrew with 98k. For the first couple of weeks, it shifted very weird, shuttered and stumbled several times on upshifts and just felt wrong. I took to the dealer for help. Afterwards, they told me the trans was shifting normal, and as it's computer controlled, it just had to learn how I drove, as opposed to the last owner and would straighten itself out. What? Well I've now had it for two months and it seems to shift fine. BS.. or luck? Just curious. Thanks!
Great video! I have a 2006 Explorer with the 4.6/6R60, and it is jerky in the first to second shift at times, especially when you come to a quick stop and quickly start again. I got it reflashed at a Ford dealership, but that didn't help. I also had the trans fluid and filter changed (though that was for a shuddering at 45 MPH), and that didn't help the shifting either. I've heard it might be the solenoids, which also lines up with what you said in the video. Any thoughts on that? And any idea on what kind of cost would that be to repair? Once the solenoids are contaminated, what is the fix? I agree with it being a solid trans, though. I've got ~133,000 miles on mine with no other issue than the jerky 1-2 shift which has happened ever since I got it at ~62,300 miles.
i have the same issue with my 2009 explorer, jerky shift going from first to second, and seems to typically rev higher than it used to. mine has 120,000 miles on it
I got a 2011 4x4 6r80 trans. Whines when in drive or reverse. Does not whine in neutral or park. Sounds just like a power steering whine (electronic power steering I do know that) whay could this be? Pump? Torque converter?
I'm trying to find out what my trans is doing, 2011 f150, really rough shift from 4-5 with a squeal, but shifts fine if I let off the throttle, no problem at all downshifting, but also once in a while has a little bit of a squeal when shifting 3-4 with a slight jerk, but not too often, but 4-5 is all the time unless I let off the throttle, I just need know what I need to replace, I did have to drain fluid from the trans after checking the fluid level, it was about a quart and a half over full, bought the truck 2 months ago
Oh Crap, I'm approaching 124K miles and I haven't changed the fluid yet. I have done the oil changes of course. No other fluids at this time. How do I tell what Trans I have in my truck? Would a cooling fin pan help? 2014 F150 STX 4x4 5.0l coyote engine 302. Automatic 6 speed Thanks for ALL your tips and videos. I just found out now that It is a removable pan and where the dipstick might be.
My wife's 2012 mustang has started getting a jerk when you let off the gas (like it's downshifting wrong). 3.7L V6 automatic. I wanna do the fluid, and filter swap. Been looking for a lead Frame, but they seem to be non-existent. No engine codes. What would be the minimum parts to change if diy and taking the pan off? Side note, how do find out part numbers that have been updated/replaced by another? I've seen 3 part numbers for the lead frames.
i have a 2007 mercury mountaineer with the 6r60 transmission,, Im going to be doing a fluid and filter change ... my maintenance booklet says to use Motorcraft SP fluid... Is that correct, or should i use the motorcraft LV fluid?????Im really confused on which fluid i should .. does the 6r60 use the SP fluid and the 6r80 use the LV fluid??? can anyone help me as i dont want to fill the transmission with the wrong fluid... maybe its ok now to use the LV fluid even tho the booklet says to use the SP fluid...
I have a Mustang 2015 eco Automatic i order a leadframe from ebay. But I don't know. If it will fit. Because I read with TCM... Without TCM... I don't see Clear. :-( 😞 what is TCM? What must I Buy for a part? Please help
Holy shit this guy is the transmission god, this is amazing lol thank you My 13' f150 had a bad molded lead frame, prob internal speed sensor (did exactly what you said, 5th to 2nd)
The quick lane at my local ford dealership won’t do pan drops. Only a fluid flush for my 2017 6 speed automatic f150 ecoboost. Question is, will it hurt? It has 88,000 miles on it.
WOW dude....... I wish you worked at my local dealer. I had my 2010 4.6v F150 with the 6r80 (I think) at 15K with slow engagement after sitting 4-6 days. They kept it for a week and said it was normal. I called BS on it but Ford wouldn't offer any help so I'm stuck with it. I've learned to wait 20-30 seconds to pressure up after sitting for a week before taking it out of park.
+FordTechMakuloco I thought I was getting burned on the story but the Ford rep backed them up so I thought it was a design flaw and not an actual failure. That ticks me off. Are there any special things to look for when replacing the valve body seal? It's been years since I pulled a transmission pan and valve bodies make me nervous. It's a 2010 with 29K miles.
What would u do if I have a stripped bolt and after drill in but the extracted won't work or easy z extracted won't work and it stuck but won't come out. Plus I have to lower down the exhaust pipe to get to the back in of the transmission pan.
Morning I have a 2016Ford Eco Boost 3.5 , I have what I found out on RU-vid is a Eco Boost shutter , throws no codes , Dealer checked it out ok , I think I is my Torque Converter ?
Hi, can you please tell me how do you put the thermal bypass valve back in on a Ford F-150, 2013? Spring side up or down? I changed the valve body and transmission oil and now the engine doesn’t start. I put the thermal bypass valve spring side up. The battery does turn on though. Is it possible I put the thermal bypass valve wrong way in? Thanks.
Can you help me with the placement of the valve body rubber feed tubes there 3 or 4 of them an I need help with the placement of these because there different sizes
That's something they didn't do. Have it hooked up while on the test drive. I will be calling them tomorrow and see if they will look at it again. Will let you know. Thank you.
The shift slide on the valve body, dont it need to be pushed all the way back (toward bed) or all the way forward (toward engine), just got mine back in and went to start it and got nothing, no click anything, ran it thru all the gears to try to see if that would get it to turn over or atleast click but nothing, I get power inside my truck and headlights turn on but when I turn the key nothing. If anyone knows I'd appreciate the knowledge, thanks
+FordTechMakuloco I have a 2016 F150 6speed (6R60?) with that temperature solenoid in there how will I ever be able to replace the fluid in torque converter?
I have a 2007 my torque converter clutch isn't disengauging at a stop and it kills the motor when I put it in reverse the truck surges up and in drive it surges the other way or it just dies. ???? Help
my 2009 will not let me use the tow haul feature after the truck warms up maybe 10 minutes. if i push the button in before that i'm good, i'm able to use the tow feature. i have found several blogs on this problem but no one seems to know what the fix is.
Will the filter fall out of place with the pan in place? I fought with my filter for over an hour to keep it in place while I re positioned the pan. I've lost sleep wondering if the filter fell down and isn't connected properly.
great video. have a 15 f150 and was having a hard 5th to 4th downshift and found a tsb 0142 or somthing. had dealer perform the tsb but now seems to be returning after 15k or so. i am at 35k now and was wondering if it should be addressed again with the same tsb or possible fluid change? your videos are top notch and have helped me perform service on all my fords. keep on keeping on
Mine is opposite, really hard 4-5 upshift with squeal, might have to have my buddy scan it with his scanner if there is a code that might be thrown that doesn't turn on the check engine light
Just looked and seen the tsb is the technical service bulletin, I think mine has been updated before I got it, had a few reprogramming PCM records on Carfax for it
in overdrive at a low rpm, I am getting a rumble, as like I am going over rumble strips, I just changed the coils and plugs, I thought I had a high speed miss. no luck, I am going to try changing the fluid and see if that changes anything. Great video
Update working perfectly now, I must of had torque converter locking up b/c of low fluid. I Changed the fluid today and there was only 3 quarts that came out from the pan. I pumped in the 4.5 quarts, and nothing on the stick, I ended up putting in 8 quarts to get is at the marks running and warm. I watch many of your video thumbs up.
FordTechMakuloco you ROCK! So I had the Ford dealer do a "machine flush" at 60k on my 11 Expy for $200. Sounds like I got taken. Now have 70k so I should jack it up and take off the pan and do the real fluid swap.
I have a Ford windstar 1999,, I got the transmission rebuild because of a overdrive problem,,,it was fine for 3 months, now the overdrive goes off again and no-one knows what the problem is,,it runs and shifts fine except when the overdrive goes off, it pulls when I speed up and I cannot turn the overdrive back on until I restart the car, any suggestions?? Thanks in advance
A guy said if I towed a Ford van without disconnecting the driveshaft it would blow the pump out and ruin the trans. It's an '04 E450 with a dead fuel pump. I was only towing it a couple of miles at low speed, can't see how that would ruin the trans. What say you? Thx.
A few miles no problem but otherwise the drive shaft is spinning the trans internals without any line since the pump is not running is why they disconnect driveshafts.
I wish I would've seen this 35k miles ago. My truck has 95k on it now :(. How much damage has been caused? I just recently started towing a travel trailer on occasion. Will I be ok if I do it at 100k? Thanks.
+Victor “DJXClusive” ME Was it at the dealer recently to have the calibration files up to date? Even so have them clear the adaptive tables and relearn the shift points that should take care of it.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Easily one of the best mechanic channels. Just bought a 2014 Raptor with 75k with no trans service ever. Filter and Merc LV!
Love these vids! My truck is hesitant in the mornings/when cold. If I stay on it it is fine but once I let off throttle and re apply throttle it sounds like it clunks back into gear. Would this be the part you talked about cracking underneath the valve body?
I see a lot of RU-vid videos With the 2010-2012 6F35 transmissions failing. Can you give me some more information on this and if this is a reliable car paired with the 3.0 L .
I completely understand why folks want to proactively change the transmission fluid early. However, I have a 2011 SCREW with 95,000 mils on it, and I hardly every tow or haul. Do I really need to change the fluid if I only have 95,000 miles on a 2011? In other words, should I change the tranny fluid based on time rather than mileage? I'm not noticing anything negative relating to shifts.
I have a feeling you didn't watch the video or listen to what Brian talked about. The real question is, why wouldn't you want to perform preventative maintenance on your truck?
Is the speed sensor removable from the valve body on the 6R80? Believe some issues I've been having on my 2011 F-150 are driven from the speed sensor even though it's not throwing codes yet. Shop I have it at said they could not just get the speed sensor and have to order a whole new valve body. Is this BS, do they just not know what they're doing or are they actually right?
+Dominic A The OSS sensor is not services separately it is part of the molded lead frame so yes you can get the lead frame separate from the valvebody. Here is the latest version from Ford-www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XLL5HQC/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00XLL5HQC&linkCode=as2&tag=fordt-20&linkId=QJPAVBN2XNZJHBRS
2013 F150 5L. In the morning only the very first shift from 2nd to 3rd is rough. After that it’s smooth till the next morning. Also if I shift to reverse first then there is no rough shifts at all. Ideas?
My 2009 f150 has been shifting (BANGING) horribly from 5th to 4th ...(worse when pulling a trailer) very disturbing.... I have had my pickup super chipped off and on...and it always makes it shift horrible...I am going to Ford tomorrow to clear it all out and recalibrate. ...do you hate superchips?
I have a 2011 fx4 ecoboost with this tranny. I recently put it into reverse and it wouldn't shift then CLUNK, threw the wrench symbol at me and p0705 and p1702 (transmission range sensor). I'm told it is not a serviceable part. Will I need the connector assembly that you have referenced in other comments? Thank you!
I have a 2011 mustang GT with the 6r80 and I'm not getting any DTC codes or check engine light. But my car is making a growling noise from the transmission area when I'm accelerating between 1500-1800 rpm and when accelerating into a curve. I've changed the driveshaft and checked the rear end bearings and LSD, they are all good. What can cause this? Can a speed sensor, torque converter sensor, valve body cause vibration and with no check engine light? Can the torque converter be going out and not get a check engine light?
I am doing a friend's 2009 Ford 150 4.6L truck transmission fluid change in about 2 weeks. This looks so similar to my 2005 Jaguar S Type R ZF Transmission. His truck has 90k miles. Nothing ever done. Runs great. I was going to just change the filter and clean the pan and that's it. But, now, considering removing the mechatronics or solenoid valve body and the other stuff. Your recommendation? Very much appreciate, thanks,
Hi Brian was wondering if you’d have any idea to bounce. I have a 2007 Expedition EL with the 6R75, my only OBDII code shown is P0741. The TC clutch will not lock up and RPMs drop to idle when I let off gas which isn’t normal. I dropped the pan and tested the TC solenoid next to the shift one. It tested good but I replaced anyway and changed fluid/filter. I put it all back together and still no change or lockup. Another comment is I changed that bridge seal too but that didn’t help either. Can a bad torque converter itself cause a P0741 and no lockup? I have no other codes, no slipping, and no noises.
I have a 07' sport Trac, 4.6 3V.. and I think it's got the 6spd. Auto Don't know which version though. Also it's a sealed unit. Any tips on servicing it? It just passed 100k Thx for any info
Hey man, I’ve scoured the internet looking for information about my truck so I hope you can help me. I have a ‘15 5.0 w/ 66k miles. The trans has suddenly began running really hot. Like 220-237 without towing or pulling anything. I’ve had a trans flush and added a trans cooler. Both did not remedy at all. Looking for any advice.
Ive got a 2016 F150 EcoBoost with 31000 miles. Had the transmission flushed with a fancy machine. I mentioned to them about this video and your advise about not flushing because it wont do anything but flush the cooler and lines because of the thermal bypass valve. They told me they don't connect to the cooler lines they have a suction tube that goes into the transmission filler opening and another line that connects someplace else (cant remember where). They told me they bypass that valve. Plus the dealer told me that thet valve is not just open and closed that it can open slightly depending on the temp of the fluid allowing fluid to get by it. Now I'm confused and concerned.
I have a 2014 Ecoboost that "moans" every now and then under load, doesn't seem to effect power. Have noticed it mainly occurs at a shift. Any thoughts? I also get the same noise if I am on a hill and shift to park. A quick light rev of the engine takes the sound away. Could this be solved via a re flash?
Hello! You mentioned the lead frame on the transmission...I've got an '11 F-150 5.0 V8 4x4 XLT has gone into limp mode on the highway twice now. The speedometer will drop to zero, the the odometer will read all dashes (----) and it won't accelerate. There is no CEL and after I turn the truck off and back on again, it'll run just fine and resume operation. The only info I've found on this is from TSB 13-06-08, which suggests replacement of the lead frame. Any experience with this? Any way to definitively diagnose it?
I just bought an 09 F150 with a 5.4 and a 6R80 in it. I got a good deal on it and it has less than 50K on it so I rolled the dice. If push comes to shove, is it possible to swap in a PCM-controlled transmission for the solenoid-body-controlled one? TIA and you're my new best friend.
My 2014 did exactly what you said, going down highway 55 miles per hour and downshifted, which threw us forward, and then went right back to normal. Scared the heck out of us. Does this mean I need to replace the output shaft speed sensor?
FordTechMakuloco, Your videos are great and a wealth of knowledge. I have a 2012 F-150 with 216,000 miles. I've had fluid and filter changed 3 times. It's developed a very hard downshift from 5th to 4th. Everything else is great. I found out the shop that did the fluid changes didn't use Motorcraft LV. I did the last fluid/filter service using LV. Magnet in pan was clean. Truck still has downshift so bad feels like getting rear-ended. I took to a shop and after driving it they said it needs a new valve body just like you said in the video. It sounds like that may not be the case from your video. Is there another route I can take? Thanks, Love the videos
hi, i have a issue with my trans. i have a explorer 07 eddie bauer v8, the mechanic refill 2q of fluid trans, since that, the truck is on p0658 an limp mode, went i put D or another shift , make a big BUMP, what can i do??
