3 Tips to Improve the Power and Performance of your Ford V10 e450 Class C motorhome. How tips on Tuner, Gears & Air Flow. 5.13 Gears MPH = RPM 55mph=2,400 RPM 60mph=2,600 RPM 65mph=2,800 RPM 70mph=3,000 RPM
The size of your Rv makes a huge difference. Great point on the air filter but I have to say I have the 1998 21’ born free same engine. Drives like a dream and now I get 12mpg. I feel the biggest difference in fuel mileage is wheels. Rims must be checked to be perfect, frequent balance, and good tires. I have bfg ko2 tires. My fuel mileage went up to 12 after getting new rims and tires. Before it was 8-10. Home this was helpful.
I have the same year with the v-10 31 ft motorhome. I chose the full Gale Banks kit it came with headers, 31/2 muffler exhaust pipe, trans module, ecm chip, and a k&n air filter. It runs like a stripped ass ape! My gas mileage on flat ground is in the high 8’s to low 9’s once I hit the hill or going into the wind it drops to mid 7’s to low 8’s. The other mod I did was fabricate a larger transmission fluid pan and a larger trans cooler to keep trans temperature cooler. The way the transmission shifted was just like you said constantly shifting in and out of OD. What the trans modular does it tells the ECM increase line pressure and it stays in OD. I even thought about installing a gear-vendor overdrive but never got around to it. IMO increasing your rpm’s by lowering your diff gears decreases your fuel mileage vs lowering your rpm’s increases your fuel mileage. My cost for the Banks kit was 2800.00 in 2004.
My 2003 class a v10 had a super restrictive airbox, so I got a k&n, but the air inlet snout was plugged by the end on the filter! I then cut a 4x4 inch hole in the bottom portion to expose the filter element. The result was that it no longer fell on its face at 4000, and would now ha e power to 4800rpm! Big improvement!
I upgraded to 4.30 gears from the factory 3.73s in my V10 2wd excursion. Towing mpgs stayed the same and I lost 1.5 empty hwy mpg, but the towing ability I gained was well worth it.
It's been about a year since I took your advice on my Tioga 23 Ford 450. I didn't listen to you on the shocks and the front sway bar so I had to take that cheap stuff off and go and put the hill wig on and the Bill Stein shocks on the front also. The Caster sleeves really worked out well and this thing drives just like an SUV now.
Just picked up a 03 e450 jayco escapade 31a. It weighs 14500 dry plus pulling a 3500lb trailer with a sxs on it. We drove it from NE Florida to Southern gap off-road park in Virginia. On flat ground couldn't ask for a anything better pulling that trailer. But in the mountains is a totally different story. They sucked the life out of that thing, so Im considering greatly on changing the gears so I won't burn up the transmission when trying to go up hill. Thanks for the info. ✌️
Great video! Super detailed information. I really like that you talked about what some people would consider a steep gear change, but it's perfect. I run a size smaller tire on my pickup with 4:10 gears and noticed a difference in performance. So im considering going to 4:56 because I don't think the Sterling rear axle will accept 4:88. But again great video, im looking into the tuner.
I have a 2003 E350 V10 that was my tow vehicle for a 8x20 trailer. Then I had a 99 E350 Winnie minnie 24 with v10 tow 7x16 trailer with 1-2 motorcycles. Now I have a 2003 E450 Jayco 31 V10. tow same trailer. If you are towing I totally agree with gear change. My Van E350 tow was about 9 mpg at 75 mph. We used to shut O/D off as it was shifting a lot and I was told that will kill a tranny. the E350 RV was about 7-8 at 70 mph and now the Monster E450 Jayco 31 is 5-6 mpg tow. I run that at 60-65 now and improved to 6-7 mpg. My buddy just got a v10 Class A and loves the same tuner
Spot on anyone that owns an RV knows you’re not getting 10 miles to the gallon that’s BS you’ll get 7 to 8 whether you’re a diesel or a V 10 gas that is the gods honest truth
Yeah most say calculate based on 7, if you get better, woohoo! Some claim as good as 10, but I doubt that's with a trailer and probably flat and low temps, IE perfect conditions The tuners do claim .5 to 1mpg better though
My 07 E-450 cab and chassis dually with a 6.8L v-10 gives me 10mpg downhill with the wind pushing me down the hill... Otherwise I average around 7-8 mpg...
great points, would not have thought of the air filter but i fully agree with your theory on why change so often. will look intothe rear gears not sure if on the 2016 they improved them or not - thanks for the rpm /speed info that should make it easy to see.
The factory air intake on these, and most modern engines for that matter, is a cold air intake. The thing you gain with an aftermarket intake is that it often flows better. There's less resistance to the air being sucked into the engine up to the throttle body and if it's a well designed system, it can take advantage of the ram air effect of driving down the road and the pressure of the air being pushed through the filter increases the air density being fed into the engine. This has the effect of two things, it increases power potential slightly, and it also increases mpg. Now this is if, and it's a big if, you actually have an improvement in airflow, and it's actually still pulling in cool air. There will be varying degrees of success on this depending on how well the factory system is designed. For example, when I put an AEM cold air intake on my Saturn SC2, mpg jumped from 24 mpg (this was mixed highway/city driving with a manual transmission, which I thought was crap) to 28 mpg. I wasn't even hitting 28 mpg with straight highway miles before the install, and my highway mileage went through the roof. I was getting between 38 and 42 mpg depending on how fast my cruising speed was. The 42 number was at 65, the 38 number was more like 75. Now on my V10 F250, I take a look at the intake and I don't see much restriction there on the factory system. It's got a conical filter already, so a huge amount of surface area, the tube size is adequate, and it's drawing in cold air from high in the engine compartment just under the hood on the driver's side. It seems to be a great system and I think about the only improvement I could see making is to open up the port before it gets to the filter, because it looks a bit smaller than the tube feeding into the throttle body. The part where I see the restriction on this engine, and this is the opposite of my old Saturn, is the exhaust system. It's small for the displacement of this engine. I did a high performance 302 build which made only a little bit more peak power than this V10 and to get the CFM I needed for that power level, I had to go with at least a dual 2.5" exhaust. This has a single 3" and that's a bit restrictive for a 415 ci engine making 300 hp. I would say a 3.5" or bigger single or a 2.5" dual would really uncork this engine quite a bit. Turbo muffler and would probably help but they're loud and annoying for something you drive a lot, so I'd just go with a massive 4" single pipe out of the factory Y pipe with an OE style muffler and call it a day. You'd need to go with a 3.5 or 4" catalytic converter if you go that route though, otherwise the converter is going to prevent any improvements from having the desired effect.
I also disagree with what you're saying about the gear swap though. Yes it will jump off the line faster, but that engine makes plenty of torque to push that RV down the highway in the lower RPM range and it's just going to wear out your engine faster with the higher piston speed on the cylinder walls with those gears you put in it. In fact, I would say you could actually drop numerically a bit from the 4.56 gears and still be fine. The torque curve is very flat once you get up around 1600 RPM, so cruising at something like 2000 RPM should be no problem (At 60 I'm turning about 1900 rpm with my truck). In fact, if you go look at 5 star tuning's dyno sheets, even though the peak torque is up around 3200 RPM for the engine on an engine dyno, on their chassis dyno it looks like the torque to the wheels actually peaks around 1700 RPM and then tapers off slightly as you rev to the engine's torque peak. This is not to mention that as your numerical ratio climbs, the driveline loss increases, so it's going to use a lot more fuel. 415 cubic inches sounds small for a vehicle of this size, but you also have an extra pair of cylinders firing through every rotation as compared to a comparable big block, so that's going to add quite a bit to the power at any given RPM vs. a 415 ci V8, putting it in the same territory as the 454 for the power and torque (I would say 460, but that engine was always a dog for its size). My main problem with the V10/4R100 setup is that Ford has it tuned the same as the 5.4L and kicks down a gear at even the slightest bit of throttle input when it's making all the torque it needs at those cruising RPMs. Even if the truck is empty and I'm letting it lose a bit of speed up grades, it'll still kick down sometimes. My truck came with 4.30's and I swapped out to 3.73's, and it had the exact same issue even before I did that even with the truck empty. It absolutely refuses to stay in overdrive if you give it any throttle at all. When it's empty it actually pulls harder through first gear than before. It ran out of first gear really quick before and the truck would take longer to get up to speed due to the gear change. The couple times I've towed with it it didn't feel any worse. It jumped from 11-12 mpg empty to 12-14 mpg depending on how I drive it and how fast I go up on the highway. If I can keep my speeds down around 60 mph and it's all highway miles, it'll do 14+ mpg all day. Gets about the same mileage when towing as it did before, which is ~7 mpg and doesn't hunt for gears any worse. If it does that crap I just hit the overdrive button and keep the revs up.
I didn’t see much discussion pertaining to effects of increasing tire size over OEM? I’m discussing that now with my builder for a 4x4 conversion to my E450 V10 Class B+ RV. Considering the tires will be changed from OEM LT 225/75 R16 29.3” diameter to LT 285/70R 17 33” diameter fronts and LT 255/80R 17 33.1” on the dually rears, going from the current 4.56 to 5.13 might be warranted. Then too the 5 Star Tune is an excellent mod to add. I always pull a small toy hauler, every bit will help.
Ironically the V-10 replaced the Ford 460 Big block V-8. The 460 suffered from poor engineering on the exhaust / head/ cam design. So the Triton V 10 came out, and the first generation had spark plugs that would spit out, cuz some bean counter decided it was a good idea to save money to install less threads in the head ! :(
Looking for a fuel wiring harness kit for my 2000 Ford E450 v 10 24ft Winnebago/itasca any help please I need part numbers and a pictures of what it looks like ford discontinued making this part for this year. send a response thank you
I watched a dyno vid once that showed a considerably less restrictive exhaust system that started with headers and went all the way back, and the curves were identical at anything below 3000 rpm. That’s a big deal if you’re a RACE CAR DRIVER or something, but otherwise, if 3k rpm is where your v-10 makes for good highway-speed pulling and just generally good drivability vibes with your modified rear end, you would be wasting your money for no return, and I bet the same would hold true on the intake side of the equation, making your idea of prioritizing any due diligence on the owner/operator’s part to ensure factory spec airflow coming in through a squeaky-clean high-quality air filter, being fed cold fresh air from the location under the hood that the engineers CHOSE just for that aerodynamic reason is going to serve you well. The only thing I could think of adding would be a piece of zero-restriction, maybe 1/4”x1/4” “hail-screen” - type pre-filter panel right behind the grill that could be easily hosed off at the gas station just to prevent the leaf or butterfly-sized trash/debris from getting in and blocking however many square inches of filter surface area they might account for… may sound silly, but where I live, (S. Texas), the volume of such biota I remove from various cooling fins, filter housings, headlights, and windshield, about 10 months out of the year might amaze you. That’s not even considering the ridiculous number of white tail deer we have to pick out of the pre- pre- filters called grill-guards (cow-catchers), people around here routinely buy.
5:14 I wish my RPMs were low. I've got a 35' Itasca but the gears are 5.13 or something. So even at 65 it's running 2700 rpms.. It's stupid high compared to most passenger vehicles. And of course the V10 is always having trouble, especially if there's any wind. Might have to get a tuner for it and see if it helps. I'm really not impressed with the Ford V10.
Jason. I’m really curious as to what was done to your rear end. I have a 2004 sunseeker 2900. I have the banks full exhaust system installed. I also have a Weldtec designs 6” lift and I’ve installed 33” cooper tires. I tow my Rzr on a 16’ flatbed. I’m trying to regear my rear end and here is where I’m at. What company of gears did you use and what exactly was done? Here’s why I ask. The rear ends on these are Dana 70s with 4.56 gears. I bought Motive Gear’s 4.88 ring and pinion and tried to have it installed. There was a 5.13 option. I just went with 4.88 as a guess. The shop couldn’t install it. We found out that Dana used a 4.10 carrier in these Dana 70s with a 4.56 gear. So I’d have to get the carrier replaced. The problem is, that the axle splines have 40 teeth! Not the usual 32, 35 or 37. And we can’t find a 4.56 or higher carrier that has 40 teeth!!! So how the heck did they do yours!?! What parts were used? What company!?! Help! I’m picking up my rv from the shop tomorrow and going to contact dana to try to get more info, but until then, I’m out of options.
I have the same basic setup. 2011 E450 V10 but only 19000 miles. At 3500 rpm your mileage sucks 5-6 mpg tops. Have you looked into the Banks system? My suspension is fine because of the mileage being so low. Sway bars and shocks on a 92k chassis should have been a huge improvement
So when you changed gears and put in the new tune to correct your speedometer, did it correct the dash speedometer as well or just the speed display on the 5 star tuner?
Thanks, interesting! We just rented the large class C from cruise America for a 3500 mile trip. We averaged mileage of around 9 mpg. We found the handling indeed not so good. To conserve fuel we did 65 max interstates, slower on smaller highways. Deliberate slow acceleration and always on the tow mode. With no wind and no traffic at all we had a couple of 100 miles at 10 mpg even, with mountains. All countryside driving, California is worse…
Good morning. I have an important question, I have a 1999 Ford E450 (6.8 V10 Triton) motorhome in Spain and when I went to check in the workshop, we did not find the VIN number on the chassis. I only see the VIN under the front glass, but I need to know where the VIN etched on the chassis is located. Could you tell me where the VIN is located on the chassis? Thanks.
There is no VIN number on the chassis on US cars! You have to knock the VIN in the chassis, or with a lazer. I get it behind front wheel. It will be more visible there, when looking over the tire
@@Plekteret04 Thank you. I passed the test but I have to put the VIN in a workshop. I have to do it before the next review. I will put it under the interior protector of the passenger floor, so it will be protected. In the revision workshop they told me that they agreed.
I'm surprised the exhaust system was not mentioned, especially with the emphasis on airflow. In every single big block vehicle I've ever owned, the biggest improvement in mileage and power (with no other changes) was removing the restriction of the single exhaust system. With the increased airflow of running at higher RPM from the gear change, the stock exhaust becomes more of a restriction.
I have read comments from a number of people who did dual exhaust or removed the Y pipe for better airflow. None of them said it had a large performance effect. Most told me they felt like the engine was a little quicker revving with better throttle response, but very little sustained towing increase.
@@jasonmiller4819 "quicker revving"as you mention means the engine is handling the load easier.....translating in more power. If you've ever driven a vehicle with a partially plugged exhaust, you know power, throttle response and fuel economy go away. The same is true to a lesser extent with a more restrictive exhaust. What one considers a "large performance effect" is subjective. A 10% increase would certainly be more "noticeable" on a 6000 pound vehicle than a 12,000 pound vehicle or an 18,000 pound vehicle but none the less, there is an improvement in all the things I've mentioned. Over the years I've improved the exhaust on many larger displacement vehicles, from big block large cars up to including my gasoline burning dump truck. On some of those vehicles, I recorded before and after acceleration runs and kept track of fuel consumption and recorded EGT's. The bigger and faster turning an engine is, the more air moving through it and thus bigger exhaust is needed so as not to become a restriction. A side benefit of a less restrictive exhaust is lower EGT's, prolonging exhaust valve longetivity and making life easier on exhaust manifolds or headers. The hotter they run, the sooner they fail, not to mention the heat damage to surrounding components.
@@turbo8454 I also think the biggest pro to better exhaust is better exhaust scavenging, you pick up some power but also should get better MPG. Obviously you might not like too much noise in the cabin either, and the cost of the exhaust could be more than your savings in fuel depending on how much you drive.
No, the PCM already monitors those things, there just isn't a gauge on the cluster for it. This is just reading that data over the OBD port and displaying it.
No the sensors are already there from the factory they just aren't showing not the dash. The tuner plugs into the OBD port and accesses all the sensor info that the computer is seeing.
OMG, never seen an air filter that dirty. With that much dirt, I see why you use new paper filters. I do mostly interstate driving and have been using a K & N for over 10 years. First, working as an engineer for over 25 years and maintaining very high tech equipment, I am always looking for preventative maintenance and power up grades for my vehicles. How I started using K & N when I saw a display at my local auto supply store. Not being someone that takes someone's word without a lot of proof, I had to check out the display. You may remember it, they had a small 4" x 4" paper filter and a K & N filter. Behind the filter was a fan and a clear tube with a ping pong ball in it. When you put the paper filter in, the ball hardly lifted up. but when you put the K & N filter in, the ball went to the top. BUT, a clever engineer could have selected a tube size that would allow the ball to rise with the K & N and not the paper with only an extra small amount of air. I put the k & n filter in and turned on the fan, and the ball went to the top. Then with a magazine, I slowly moved it across the filter face, blocking the incoming air. WOW, the ball did not drop until I had closed ()covered up) 50% of the K & N filter. This meant that the K & N filter was delivering more than 49% more air than the paper filter. After seeing your video, I went out and removed the filter and put in my spare (that I have cleaned and oiled). I.ve been cleaning the K & N for the last hour, and mostly have only removed the oil covering. No dirt, bugs, grime, or any particulate that I can see. For you, you need the paper filter, for me, I'm keeping the K & N.
@@StephenMattison66 I hadnt heard that....but..i dont "soak" my K&N filter...its a light coating.I've used one on my F-150 5.4 Liter (related to the V-10) for 20 years without issue on an cold air intake system...210,000 miles.
You can use the $4k in axles and tuners to buy a 3v version of the v10. The 2v like in this RV were dog slow. Also the newer E series have a lot better handling and instrumentation.
@@cesarpalmos8235 no E series ever came with the 3v, only 2v . The heads of the 3v are to big and will not fit. Same reason they never put an intercooler on the 7.3 and 6.0 PSD in the E series, no room. Ford de-tuned the diesels. 1996 and older 300/4.9 i6, 302/5.0,351W\5.8, 460/7.5, 7.3 PSD and 7.3IDI. 1997 up 4.2 V6. The 4.6,5.4,6.8 all 2V. 97-98 they had full aluminum intakes. 7.3 gave way to the 6.0. The diesel then was discontinued before the front end makeover. After the full body E-series was dropped the 6.2 was added replacing the 6.8 the 5 4 was dropped and then the 6.2 and 7.3 godzilla were the two choices three, if you count the two versions of the 7.3. Interior was updated around 2020. There are two frames for the cutaway one is still the same frame the 1992 and up E350 then there is the HD frame for E450 . 92 -07 the 150 frame was lighter than the 250 and 350 Ford then used the same frame for all E series except HD cutaway. Brakes and axkes were the same from 2010 for 150 to 350. The 08 and 09 interior was the same as the 05 to 07, 2010 had the next update until 2020. Only suspension changes were 2010+ the front radius control arms were updated and a different style ttb arm as they changed the mounting if the front sway bar, rear sway bar became standard . The spindles are the same 92+ . I have 2010 radius control arms and front brakes on my 98 E350 and 2002 rear end. All a direct bolt on. This is what I have in my head for general knowledge for 92 and up have much more bookmarked and printed out. Heads up for anyone working on 92-98 E350 rear brakes there are two different drum widths 3inch and 3 1/2. The drums and shies obviously different. The internal hardware is also different only interchange is the rear wheeintercooler. All the lug patterns are 8 on 6.5 . The 2010 front brakes will bolt on to OBS F series92 to 98. Need the caliper , mount and rotor. The only 10 bolt lug pattern econoline I have seen was a 1990 E350 with a 460. Almost forgot the F53 is a completely different chassis those had the 3v motors and the diesels had intercoolers. The F53 has a straight beam axle up front.
Could someone on here please answer a question I have about my 2003 Ford E450 6.8 V10 transmission? I am changing out all the fluids & filters because last time I was charged $1100. I am currently working on changing the transmission fluid & filters. I cannot find the cylinder shaped in line filter. I was thinking the starter was it yesterday, but I found out that’s not it. Can anyone tell me how to locate it?
If it has an external filter, follow the transmission fluid lines. Most likely it is near the transmission oil cooler in front of the radiator. The trans filter in the pan is not all that difficult. Some years have a drain plug in the trans pan. Drain the fluid drop the pan , several youtube videos on that. If there is no drain plug it can be a little messy. The pan still comes down just leave a few bolts in and try to let one corner down first to drain the fluid, use a very large catch pan and have cardboard down with oil absorbent ready. Oh and don't wear clothes you want to keep unstained with oil.
Not sure on the HP and Tq but the stock Y pipe is extremely restricted. The pipe diameter is good, its the 90 degree intersect there is a kit that can be welded in to correct this. Next restriction is the catalytic converter a good shop can modify the factory cat with a 3.5 in inlet and outlet nothing internal is done so completely legal. Then run a 3.5 cat back system with a free-flowing muffler. To combat the drone use a hemholtz resonator. Stock Ford cat back exhaust is the same between the 5.4 and 6.8 Not sure when but they changed the Y pipe design on the 5.4, the Y pipe on my 97 E350 V10 looks close to my 98 E350 5.4. My 2006 E350 shuttle bus has a better designed Y pipe larger pipe and a better flowing intersect. The rear sections are a bit different the pre 99 vans have only 1 cat the 06 has 4. I don't know when Ford went from 1 to 4 cats. Mpg the 97 and 98 passenger vans,have 3.73 gears 4spd trans V10 at best gets 22mpg V8 15 mpg The 06 5.4 shuttle bus, 4.10 gears 5spd trans, gets 8mpg.
just buy a K&N air filter that is good for 70,000 miles at least before to be replaced and more air coming in the engine and it is made with an oil and it is easy to clean.
Good advice probably if you're towing. At 2,000 rpm the engine is putting out the power required to maintain speed. 🤷♂️ This isn't a performance machine. Peak power is needed only when necessary, which it has in abundance. For cruising its superfluous. My V10 in a 2008 Holiday Rambler 235S (11,500 GVWR) averages 10.2 at 60 mph and around 2100 rpm. Increase my speed or put my foot in it and economy falls through the floor. "You can assume that each 5 mph you drive over 50 mph is like paying an additional $0.15 per gallon for gas" This motor is also in Class As. My friend's 2019 Thor 29 footer gets 9-10 towing a GMC suv.
I live and travel in hilly terrain so the V10 doesn't have nearly enough power for safely cruising even without towing. Before I made any modifications I was often struggling to keep my speed above 40mph on sections of the Interstate. Now I can pull the hills at 50-55 which is much safer and far less frustrating for other motorists, esp. on two lane roads. Out in Kansas or Florida the stock power is probably fine, but not out west where we travel.
@@jasonmiller4819 This information isn't useful without taking elevation into account and the grade of the hills. Too many variables to make blanket statements.
These V10's respond the most to exhaust upgrades...you will get even more out of the tune if you replace the junk stock exhaust manifolds with headers, delete the cat, and install the y-pipe mod.
The 3V 4.6L,3V 5.4L,and 3V 6.8L have different thread housing for the spark plugs during mid 2003-2008 than the 2V 4.6L,2V 5.4L,and 2V 6.8L from 1997-2003. These engines most of the time actually don't have catastrophic failures unless you really abuse the hell out of them,or can't fix shit when something goes wrong.The only bad part about them which is completely obvious,is that they are true gas guzzlers,but again,it's a V10 and it's gasoline,what do you expect. However,on the 3V V8 and 3V V10,they can have solenoid or oil camshaft phaser errors. And about the spark plugs at least in relation to the 2V V8 and 2V V10,most of the time,all you really need to do is not tight them extremely hard,or make it very loose,that is why they fly out or even break.Another common thing about the original Tritons is the coil packs and tension guides as well,all easy to repair and maintain. Between the 2V V10 and 3V V10,they are 325 HP/425 TQ and then 362 HP/457 TQ. I had a 2002 F550 XLT with 4:56 Gears.My truck was around 12,000 lbs and I always got 7-9 MPG on mine,it had the 6.8L V10.It had 385,000 miles the day I got it and 405,000 miles by the time I sold it,I only owned it for a little over a year.Mine failed at 12,000 miles though on the spark plugs.
@Mark989 K&N air filters are a NON disposable air filter that will s coated with a oil to provide the ability to capture dirt. When obviously dirty they are literally washed in a soap solution, often dish soap, until clean, dried, and then re-oiled and installed. You can often installed a mesh “sock” over them to catch the “big stuff” before it embeds in the filter such as bugs, stones, organic matter etc, making it easier to clean without compromising airflow ability. Your apparent shock is as surprising to me as this is to you as you can literally buy these filters at Walmart and because they are EXTREMELY well known...AEM is another known name in reusable, oiled air filters... Their design is such that the amount of crap d they would have to be coated in for reduced flow to be an issue, that it would boarder on neglect, if it was the case. They cost from $30+ typically.
@Mark989 Yes, it is a very thin oil and only enough to LIGHTLY saturate the media is used. To much and there is the preciously mentioned risk of shedding excess oil onto airflow sensors. These filters do well with REGULAR cleanings and let a LONG time, but the performance claims generally are only realized in the upper RPM band where paper filters get choked off...
Are you still consistently pulling this off Double the fuel mileage. We do. 55 mph. Which kindof sux We have an 01 350 Ford v-10. 60k miles on it I am spend $40 an hour on gas
I know its old but the main thing to take into account is how Ford tunes these, they run them to meet a certain emission criteria snd make them idiot proof, the common thread is to have torque limiting to protect the driveline and reduce combustion temperatures to reduce nox and keep pistons and exhaust valves alive under ALL driving conditions and idiots right foot, this is achieved by timing retarding and rich fuel mixtures both of which are the exact opposite to performance and economy requirements, so start with a custom retune and then try all your old school bits !
Over 600k on a total of three trucks with 28 cylinders in all and exactly 1 plug has an insert and that’s from a plug change and the threads came with it. Plug problem with these from Low factory install torque and a bunch of big mouth know it alls like you doing plugs without a torques wrench
