Thanks for the tips. I cannot believe how little info is out there on a simple adjustment for an old Ford clutch. My pedal is almost on the floor to engage in my Mustang. I am going to check it when I get home. Subscribed!
Thanks for the video man it really helps to have someone on RU-vid that has alot of knowledge on old fords. Long time subscriber and i enjoy all your videos! Helped once again!
I have the same motor on my 67 mustang. My engagement point is high, but it’s almost uncomfortable to drive because the clutch pedal is almost at my knee. Can I move the height of the pedal so the whole mechanism is closer to the firewall?
Hey bud I just got me a 68 Windsor Fairlane with a Toploader 4 speed how do I determine whether this is a close Ratio or wide ratio I think it's a close ratio because first gear is so terrible High you can barely negotiate a parking lot or a speed bump but once you're rolling 25 mile an hour you can rip through the gears like nothing they seem real close I want to put a T5 post 86 so I can have that 335 first gear if I have a close ratio top loader I've got a 220 something first gear you got any ideas for me
I took my rod out as I’m in a complete rebuild , I loosened the two jam nuts and noticed the rod slides freely. Is it supposed to be threaded inside? I thought it would be but peering inside with a flashlight and no threads.
I wish you could check on a a bar adapter for my bell housing. We just put 302 in a 78 took the 6 cylinder out there is no bracket to mount the ball on the motor
I have a 66 f350 and the clutch engages almost at the floor. I did a couple turns on the linkage and still having trouble with 3rd and 4th gear grinding trying to go into gears. How do I know I have a bad clutch?
Ok so I have a 75 f100 with an automatic transmission and it wont start in park, I half to slide it between park and reverse to start it and I have the problem of it sliding in reverse when it's in park while it's running. Can someone help me to solve this issue because I can't find any videos on how to fix it.
My beast is a 1996 Bronco 5.0 5speed with 6" lift. When it qualifies for historical tags, I plan on replacing the radius arms and see if that's what causes it to vibrate shaking over 30mph.
I had a 90 bronco for awhile and it wanted to wander pretty bad. I never quite figured it out before we sold it, the tie rods and ball joints weren’t great. I’m sure that played a large part
I actually own a 90 Bronco and when I see vibration in a vehicle at a certain speed I think of a few things. First I check tire balance. Move tires around to see if vibration follows. Next, I check for driveline issues - driveshaft, u joints, pinion angle etc. Bronco's dont have a lot of driveshaft to spare so if its really hanging out of the dustboot slip-joint, I'd certainly get that sorted out before I hit the trails. Perhaps the biggest thing I see with Bronco's is the improper installation of lift kits or just the real "slap it together let's get it on the road" mentality. I hope this helps you.
Gotta tail light out lol, nice to see another old truck saved, wish I could afford to pick up something older to play with but being a single dad of a 9 year old money don't last long.
Derek Joon the drive off clip is from the day we got it, iv had to track down a few electrical issues from mice and sitting. Everything works currently except for dash lights and the left brake light.
Hey Luke, I just dropped in a hopped up 390 into my 67 f100, replaced clutch, TO bearing etc as well. Happy with how it runs etc but while running, won't go into gear. I thought that since it was adjusted for the old worn out clutch that might have been the issue. I adjusted it back out so much so that the clutch pedal feels to disengage about 1/4 of the way up, still won't go into gear while running. I'm not sure what the issue would be, I'm thinking if it's an adjustment issue the clutch would work still, albeit poorly. But it doesn't work at all. Any ideas?
It will be out again soon. It’s been a slow process because parts are hard to find. Hopefully starting it up this month. I don’t think there is actually anything left to do but hit the key now
Nice instructions on doing this...But be careful ,, too much adjustment with the nuts by spreading it out farther and you run the risk of the Large end piece falling off....Especially if driving on rough roads or off roading... I found this out the hard way...By myself In the middle of nowhere,, back before there were Cell phones.... I did manage to get back,, many hours later...only because I was able to put it in gear and creap along... For anyone who is unsure.... This procedure you just showed,, works for both floor shifters and 3 on the tree...because it's clutch adjustment only.... not shift linkage adjustment... Enjoy the Videos...Keepem' coming....
Are you talking about the video he did while he was away on a 3 month job or something? If so that was his Galaxy 500. I've never seen a video where he did with a truck. I could be wrong though.
so what do you think happened to my 68 mustang clutch? car sits most all year and one day the clutch stopped working. checked it out it looks the same set up as yours. i dont see any broken springs, linkage still all hooked up nothing bent/fall out of place. pedal goes all the way to the floor it wont clutch at all and what ever it is it happened just from sitting not my fault. before that it always worked great. sometime before winter when its not so hot/humid was thinking of pulling the engine/transmission out just to see. 289 with 3 speed
That’s interesting. But doesn’t engage .... 2 things it could be - clutch disk age welded itself to the flywheel. A lot of times if I’m going to leave a carrot a long time, I’ll set the clutch pedal so that the clutch is always pressed in by something. Either that, or the throw out bearing has become dislodged from the fork. You should be able to feel a difference in that though - it wouldn’t feel right. At some point you could simply drop the tranny and inspect. Let me know your thoughts here
i went under the car the fork still has pressure on it because i though it became dislodged from the bell housing pivot. must be something inside i cant see
There are two attachment points, the fork will go onto the bell housing and the throw out bearing with two tabs each. When you say it goes to the floor, does it feel different, like you can’t feel a “catch point” like what I describe in my video?
clutch is always engaged. pedal goes all the way to the floor feels the same with pedal springs still working like before this happened. only way to drive it now is shut engine off, shift into 1st, start engine. car takes off driving soon as the starter starts moving. can take out of gear without clutch
Sounds like the clutch disk welded itself to the flywheel from sitting. Sometimes if you stomp on the clutch pedal really fast a few times while turning it over it will free itself up. This happened on a friends 66 galaxie 4 speed 428. It had sat in a barn for almost a year. Might not be the issue, but if the linkage works right and feels right, I wouldn’t be surprised if it’s the problem
I need advice (help) lol! I have a 74 f100, I swap motor and T5 ( manual transmission ) from a 90 mustang gt, my problem is that my cable clutch goes through my headers, and after 6months of driving daily it came to the point to where the plastic around the steel cable melted😵, my question is what replacement can I use is there a kit I can buy. Please HELP!
@@ThunderHead289 yes, now I see what you did, but I didn't know u could use the original, so I also swapped the clutch pedal, that is why I used the cable😅 how can I send you pictures of my set up, big fan of your channel, and junkyard digs, 👍!
Ive got a '58 F100 that clutch won't even engage anymore. Used to work okay but grinded in R and 1st. (3 on the tree). Lemme get under there and see what I can see. Will report back when I got something...
Push in the clutch pedal and turn it over - if it starts, mash the gas pedal a few times to shock load it - obviously don't hit anything and do it in a safe area
@@ThunderHead289came back to your video, my original clutch was seized to the flywheel and actually fell to pieces when I pulled the transmission, watching your video actually helped me figure out that my linkage was also screwed
Please tell me this works on the brake line as well. My Brakes pedal sags slightly triggering the brake light even with the engine off. I have to use a steering wheel club or rock behind it so it wont engage. AND there is no video on youtube about it. NONE. This is the closest I've gotten for my 69 f100
You just have a weak master cylinder is all. Your pedal resistance is directly correlated to master cylinder opposing force. No other tricks between the two
@@ThunderHead289 Thanks you sir! Big fan of the channel. Your videos are truly an inspiration. So much so I've mustered up the courage to change a fuel line, valve cover gaskets, oil and filter. I even checked for vacuum leaks using propane and a hose today. This coming from someone totally intimated by cars. No BS my friends honestly thought I had a new mechanic named Thunderhead 289 because I learned so much LOL. One asked about headers today. He's getting interested in classic cars now! We grew up in NY in a building with maintenance on staff, none of us can fix anything. Sorry for the long reply, just want you to know your work is making a difference, putting smiles on people's faces, and making guys like myself proud to have fixed even the simplest repair.
@@ThunderHead289 I may have explained it wrong but I just got back from my mechanic, there's a linkage underneath the dashboard He adjusted which fixed it. I wish I could have filmed it but it was definitely not enough room for him and I under there LOL
Yeah dude, no one needs to spend all that time necessarily. If your there doing work, great - but no reason that someone has to lay the truck up for awhile to do that if they need to make an adjustment
@@MattsRageFitGarage another generation of Ford fullsize trucks I rarely see around nowadays are the 1980-86 ones too which came right after those 1973-79 ones.
I bleed FoMoCo Blue....Don't get me wrong,, I have owned other vehicles by the other Manufactures,,, But I always came back to the Blue Oval....And due to the fact that your video's content is FORD related,, I have watched them all...I really enjoy the content and your input / Knowledge as to what your working on....Be it new or old... SOooo, I got to ask.... Did you go to School or Auto Tech, to learn this ?? I never took any Autoshop in school,,, everything I know about working on autos, I learned by doing it myself or watching it be done... alot of trial and error along the way,,, not to mention all the Busted Knuckles and cuts and Bruises...lol Here's a phrase I once heard an Old Mechanic say,,, "Anybody can work on a Chevy, But it takes a REAL Mechanic to work on a FORD".....
My buddy drove by in his new truck and said he waved and I didn’t wave back, I said you got one of those new trucks and they all look the same, I don’t notice if it’s not vintage. Also, people will move out of the way for you in an old truck, probably they think the brakes don’t work, lol.
ThunderHead289 lol. I am 6'4 and you look tall on your vids, and we both have short girlfriend's. Now that is funny. Mine is Japanese. So to see her in my f-250 is really funny. Her getting in is even funniest yet.
As kids, back in the day, this stuff was automatic for a kid to learn from day one. Basically the old rules were 1 inch of free play in the clutch peddle. That way you stay off the throw out bearing. If you liked less peddle travel you could adjust the linkage for less than an inch of free play. If you liked the clutch near the floor you would increase the free play in the peddle. He's covering this because clutches have been hydraulic for a very long time, and many of you have no clue what he is talking about. Mechanical or cable linkage was the standard until the 1990s rolled around. This is old school tech.
