Buildsum, thank you very much for your quality videos and even more for passing on your experience and experiences in residential construction. You are doing fantastic work, keep it up, thanks again
Love it, really helping with my revision for technical skills assessment. Some stuff that's lost there in my head but needs to be rejuvenated. Really appreciate these vids would be pretty lost without them.
@@Buildsum It's for the 190 visa skills shortage. I've worked in a bit in UK NZ WA and now NSW, stage 1 is the experience gathering and stage 2 is the Technical skills assessment. I'm definitely more confident in explaining stuff than I was. My test is Next Monday just keep watching your vids on 1.75x speed 😄
Nice use of Sketchup and great information for builders. They do make a metal bracket that slips over the edge board for a standard 150 rebate yet the method you show is a better way of doing it .
@@Buildsum Copy that, project home builders use them a lot as unfortunately, the quality is not their number one priority. Mate, we love your work, well done!
I'm 100% convinced, that if our state and federal government were serious about housing affordability and building new houses to ease this, they should pay you (and others like you) at least $300,000 a year and give you a dedicated team and unlimited resources to pump out videos on how we construct quality houses in Australia.
Hi John, Great videos, really informative, thanks for putting these on line. Would the slab be the same for a double brick house, as opposed to a brick veneer? Cheers
with the rebate, would you not put a board between the top of the edge board and the bottom of the rebate to stop concrete spilling out during the pour? great video though thanks
hi Buildsum, again, thanks for this great vid. Im wondering two more things about formwork. 1. How to form up a 50mm setdown for a screed in a wet area, and 2. how to form the 45 degree internal angle connection between 400mm deep perimeter edge beams and 100mm slab (in section view), if constructing a timber frame on a slab?
Hi Sue, the 50mm setdown would be formed up with temporary pegs that would be removed and the holes filled in, after the concrete has been poured and the first screed completed. The 45-degree internal angle is shaped into the ground or the waffle pod. I show this in this video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-0Um_Ttv95Ko.html Hope this helps
@@Buildsum thanks yes it does help - I'l have to get the excavator to shape that in. Im assuming it doesn't have to be exactly 45 degrees - the Engineer did not specify anything about this angle, I just see that the slab needs to be thicker to avoid any shear forces
Fantastic video Thanks ! i just have one question in regards to how to fasten the edge board to the ledger board using the two peg and ledger board system? its at 4.30min in the presentation . Thanks Grant
Hi Grant, You could just nail through the face of the edgeboard into the ledger however that will make pulling it apart hard with the concrete in position so the best idea is to skew nail through the ledger into the edgeboard. Hope this helps.
im also wondering about the slab edge details for a timber framed construction, with set-in bifold doors? Im imaginging the slab with timber framing will just be square edge?
Hi Sue, yes, most likely however it would depend on the construction of the doors and the finish of the flooring. You might have to have a small step down in the slab to allow for the door tracks to finish flush with the floor.
@@Buildsum thanks, yes I've also checked with Allan Staines book, and it looks like square edge at the perimeter. Ive got a couple more questions for you which I'll posta bove, thank you
Hi Roger I would only take out all of the top soil until you get to good, compact soil, if this is too deep then you may have to get the slab designed for the soil type. Most soil can be used as fill as long as it is clean, free of organic matter and minimal clay content. There are also products like road base that will compact very well
Hi, This may be a silly question What stops the concrete from spilling over througth the rebate? Is there some cloth or lining or is it too dense to spill out?
Hi Nermin, you would think that it would and if it was water then, of course, it would, however for reasons that I am not exactly sure about, it doesn't. As you say it is probably the density of the concrete that prevents it from overflowing the formwork.
Hi Mate, thanks for your comment, look I would say 5 to 10mm at the most depending on the area. Remembering that your frame and or brickwork can't overhang the slab more than 20mm max and your cavity (if you have one) can't be any less then 20mm either I think, you need to be pretty accurate.
Hi Dion, I like to keep the rebate a least 2 courses of brickwork deep so 142mm and it needs to be 150mm wide, 110mm for the brick and then 40mm min for the cavity Hope this helps
Hi Hank There is not enough weight in the concrete on top to force it out of the step when it is mixed at the correct ratios. The wetter the mix the more likely it is to happen however it is not an issue.
Thanks Mate, generaly not a concern however if you were worried you could face the timber with Ply, making sure that you allow for the extra thickness of course.
Hi Roger Yes, The moisture barrier should go down either under or over the top of the waffle pods before the mesh is installed and termite protection applied around the penetrations in the slab before it is poured. After the slab has been poured additional termite protection is applied to block the cavity
THANKS John, for the penetrations of termite protection, is that mean chemical spray on the soil which under the slab? is that spry job has to be done by licensed pest controller and need grab a certificate for CERTIFY? I saw a TERMITE membrane product which will be laid the as same position as moisture barrier on top the infill soil, is this kind product better or cost too high?
Hi Roger You can spray however all sprays nowadays have a limited life span so unless you can get back underneath the slab to reapply it they are not worth using. Terimesh and similar products have collars that go around pipes to stop termites getting through. Yes, all termite systems must be installed by a licenced installer. Kordon is a combination DPC and Termite barrier which can be used on the penetrations and perimeter the same way as Terimesh but would be very expensive to use as a waterproof membrane under the entire slab
good intentions but this drawing -sample don't show real life out on jobsite I build slabs and post tension slabs-floors and forming is not quite close to every day forming /reinforcement /pouring
One question: Can you build your footing using bricks and then push mesh and rebars on top of that and then add concrete to save on concrete? Or can you build your footing without using any concrete and just use bricks and mortar?
Unless you want the footing to come out of the ground I would not worry about the formwork. To keep the excavation as accurate as possible digging by hand is best or if you need to use a machine to dig it with an undersized bucket and finish it off by hand.
Hi Mate, do any of these help, ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-0Um_Ttv95Ko.html, ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-tx90Zo0Xyds.html
Can anyone help me understand slab terminology, I've asked two builders only to find out I had more of a clue than they did... in fill slab: a slab in which the masonry walls are used as the formwork on fill slab: a slab which rests on a foundation as opposed to a suspended slab slab on ground: a slab which rests on the foundation, and the walls rest on the slab rather than the footing monolithic slab: a slab in which the footings and slab are poured in one footing slab: a slab in which the footings and slab are poured separately correct? I'm Australia based
Hi Scotty, Yes you are correct, some of the confusion comes because you could use 2 or 3 of those terms to describe the same slab, e.g. a slab on ground is all so a monolithic slab, also a raft slab, an on fill slab and a Waffle Pod Slab. this link might also help docs.google.com/document/d/16XNkQf_K3-jrYWroU-YH0-PoRsV5pI0hvEKSbTfkM08/edit?usp=sharing
thanks heaps mate, there's few places one can go for knowledgeable advice on this sort of stuff. i was fairly sure i had it right until i was reading the termite standards AS3660.2 and it says (b) Slab-on-ground: Treatment of concrete slab-on-ground may present special problems, especially if the slab is laid on fill. slab on ground can only be laid on fill!
