Brent was a great addition to the network. Its refreshing and inspiring to see people who care so much about their craft, and art. More videos like these please!
Oh you mean like the text that is at the bottom of the screen at the beginning of the video? I'm glad you posted this comment so the less eagle eyed viewers can take advantage of your observation skills.
This comment makes it a hyperlink, and NorthWoodsDiver is awesome for doing it. It stands to reason he probably watched a decent chunk of the video and noticed the note too but he did it anyway because hoping into comments for time stamps is common and easy to do on RU-vid...
@@sheilameagher3675 I watched this video all the way through twice, and I don't feel like that part of my life was wasted. I love the things Brent does to put together houses like this. He really is a master craftsman.
Wow... I am absolutely stunned by this episode! Absolutely amazing! Matt... you have given us ol' country boys, a look into the past, and 100 years into the future of possibilities, for creating art such as these examples of what can be attained in our shops for us all... Thank you brother. You have given us all the keys my friend, and I for one say... KUDO'S to you, for what you so wonderfully share with us all. I cannot believe that I had not seen this..... wow!
I'm glad I'm not the only one who noticed that. It likely won't hold up to the weight of the door after a few years. Tapcons are some of the most brittle fasteners you can use. Sheer strength next to nothing. Edit: on second look, it does look like it's flanged on the face... but for a vault door? you could pull the whole door off the wall with a decent come-along, frame and all. They should have welded some angle on the inside to go around the inside brick face at the very least. I would have suggested 4ft lentils through the block every 3 courses or so and weld to the door frame. That would spread the impact resistance through some of the wall surface, and not just the edge of the block surrounding the door. As it is now, wrap a chain around the handle, hook it to any harbor freight electric winch, that door will flop over without a fight... Tapcons...
I love that you highlight such great work, and "out of the box" thinking. I'm a building science nerd myself, and that stucco detail is just plain awesome (and a tad pricey.) Keep up the good work! The ideas and work you share with us is a far cry from what we were building in my days as a pm for a production builder. As a registered architect now; I'm glad to see craft and craftsmanship is still alive and well.
When I was looking for a house here in Waco thirty years ago, I ran across a place that a fellow had built when he moved from the mid west. He told he that when he was about 9 years old, a tornado took his house away while he and his family were in the storm shelter in the basement. "A thousand locomotives going overhead." was how he described it. Evidently the experience made quite an impression on him so when he built a house he incorporated such a safe room in the construction. Like banks are built, the rebar cage is locked into the foundation and CMU's or concrete forms the walls and roof with a big old steel vault door. Great idea. Place came with a Cat road grader, but ended up buying closer to town.
The only safe place in a big tornado is underground. When 300 mph winds are throwing trains around it scrubs everything down. I've seen it tear the blacktop from the roads.
If you want the style and quality of an old home, you must have style and quality! Shocker, I know. Thanks for this; would love to see a check-in closer to completion.
Please consider phoning Rossman Repairs (he gets so many emails that he may miss yours if you send one) and organising leveling his floor for him. Would very likely bring a lot of subscribers to your channel, and you'd be doing a very good thing for a person who puts time and effort into improving the lives of many many people. He's just been shafted by an NYC contractor, again, and so many people want to see his business succeed. You'd be doing A LOT of people a favour by helping him out with some proper skilled construction which is actually worth what he is willing to pay.
BruceNJeffAreMyFlies I was JUST watching his videos and his problems. Louis is willing to pay full asking price but for quality work and everyone in the area are either hacks or no shows. He tips the guys and even gives them gifts of thank you’s. Poor guy.
@@PersonaN007Grata Yeah he's said he's willing to pay a decent price, AGAIN, but as it stands it's not worth the risk of hiring another stranger who may half ass the job and rip him off again. That's why a youtuber like Matt would be ideal; He can see the quality of Matts work before he hires, and Matt cares about his reputation a lot more than most contractors.
Cannot believe the vault door frame is using tapcon screws to hold to the block???? Tell me you guys went back and did stainless steel lag bolts before it was finished...otherwise you can hammer that frame off of the wall....easily
As a finishing carpenter with forty plus years of experience it’s nice to see someone actually using millwork the way we use to personally I’m sick of the shit we get today
Hey Matt--great video! Louis Rossmann could use your expertise! I'm sure you are well over booked for any free-time, but if you do have a moment, fellow RU-vidr LOUIS ROSSMANN, who has a following of 1 Million subscribers for his board repair videos, has been in a very heated and aggravating position dealing with the common scummy practices by real-estate/contractors in NYC. In most recent times, the stage he's in now has been dealing with the horrible practices of contractors in the city and is shelling out tens of thousands of dollars wasted because of those scummy practices! Even then, he is still open to any thoughts and suggestions, and I figured it'd be great to atleast look into the situation and give your two cents and possibly a viable option for him! Currently, he's hired a contractor that's essentially scammed Louis's money and time installing a sub-par flooring for the new store Louis and his team are anxiously waiting to move into already. The existing flooring, from the span of the back of the store to the front of the store there is a rough 10" steep going down to the front of the floor, that is incredibly poorly leveled in which Louis searched and gave with great trust a chance for a contractor to fix this problem. Long story short, the contractor poorly executed this task (or should I say didnt execute since it's taken 37 days to poorly finish 2/3 of the flooring) that caused Louis to waste tens thousands of dollars and useful time. It would be great for him (and his wallet) and his tens of thousands of viewers and possibly something for your viewers aswell about dealing with these terrible practices done by contractors. Please look into this and perhaps even give your insights! Thanks!
@@davenz000 lol well either way I'm sure Matt is booked regardless, but I think this is a perfect time for both parties. Though it seems like Louis may already have a plan in place anyway since he is shelling out a few hundred daily for a store that's not even near opened yet
My saferoom door frame was installed first, yes the actual door frame and then the saferoom was built around it. The concrete was poured with the ICF blocks in place and locked the door frame together, it ain't going nowhere. That's how you properly install a saferoom door. Poured in place, NOT screwed.
The most under rated part of this house is the laundry room right off the master bath, couldn't imagine having to walk all through that mansion just to do laundry.
I love the safe room. We have done quite a few of these now. Have not used a fort knox safe door, but same exact concept. And he did it right. I've seen them make that vault door outswing amd that's bad juju in the case of emergency egress after a tornado or fire.(god forbid) We don't do much of anything with CMU block here in the Midwest. Otherwise an identical type of detail to some of our customs. Our vault doors have a frame that is tied in and wet set, and becomes a part of the poured cement. We use an extremely reinforced full poured foundation wall with suspended concrete on top. If we have a basement under the safe room area, that floor is suspended as well. We also use a hidden door detail that leaves the vault door invisible. Controlling Moisture, air flow, and radon mitigation is a major deal here also. I would like to find a better system for that that keeps the safe room 100% sealed. We're close. But I would love to see how others are doing their safe room ventilation. If you can squeeze that in some time Matt. Good job on the build! Even down to the sills. White oak is a very overlooked detail these days as well. That home is amazing! Alot of time, and craftsmanship are in that sucker! And a lot of $$ 😂 And I love it! His masons have their s**t together for sure. At any rate... I'm Glad to see more builders doing things in super extraordinary ways. We need it here in the U.S.! Make building great again! 💪 Thanks for the content @Matt Rissinger 👍
cool vault room, so did you have to have fresh air ducts and ventilation systems installed? I would think that kind of stuff is what is going to drive the price up. thanks for posting. 👍
WOW, sapele for doors? That was NOT cheap! Being an imported wood quantities are limited in addition to higher costs because of shipping, weight, availability, etc. It is an amazing wood loved by wood workers and wood turners because of its density, workability, color saturation, color evenness, lack of color fading, and lack of oiliness. Very cool. Painting the sapele is heartbreacking because it is a gorgeous wood but understandable due to the application in this scenario. White oak is an amazing wood for outdoor use and other uses where moisture may be an issue. It has great durability for wetness because the wood is so porous. Add to that it is extremely common (most oak species are actually white oak) and inexpensive for the dimensions needed for most any project. You can get large dimensions of rough oak pretty easily. Plus oak (both white and red) has been readily available throughout the history of the US. Hard maple may be better than the poplar for some trims (like interior doors or window sills). Poplar is technically a hardwood but its density is not much better than pine so it dents and scratches pretty easily. Hard maple over soft maple because of density. Soft maple is a step above poplar but hard maple is leap above poplar. Maple is also quite plentiful (so is poplar) and reasonably priced. Poplar is a solid wood to use for projects that won't receive a lot of direct abuse, touching, or use. Painting over these woods for a window trim that won't get touched, poplar probably is the best choice because it is easy to shape and less expensive. I want to see the router bits he used to make that molding too! Shoot, I want to see his entire router setup to mill that trim because that is insane. Sorry, I am an aspiring woodworker so I have some knowledge about that. Awesome tour and insanely amazing house. Thanks for sharing!
I would love a recommendation on the historic millwork books he reads as well as a shop tour. Great work. Stucco detail is still a little confusing (to wire or not to wire).
What is the point of having an 11k vault door if you are going to use couple of 1/4’’ tapcon to secure de door? I pretty much know nothing about vaults but it seems silly to me.
I like how they say for Under 20 Thousand is not that bad... Must be nice to be able to say that...! 20 Thousand dollars would be the World to me and my family as I’m guessing it would be the same for many of you...
Man... "on the cheap" for 20k. Seriously? I miss the days where this show discussed minor differences in cost for huge performance differences. Seems like lately, "a little bit more" doesn't mean type B pex vs type A or ZIP system, it means the A/C system that costs 3x as much, custom milled moldings for 25 foot ceilings made out of wood that's $25/ bf, and that 20k safe room "on the cheap". It's gone from useful to fanciful and out of touch.
I feel that way as well. Everything that's on this channel lately is completely out of reach for your average person. No sense in watching anymore unless you want to dream about the house you *might* have someday.
I guess it depends what the definition of safe room is. If it’s for locking up valuables it’s great, if it’s for hiding from bad guys, I’d want a way out
I gotta ask. Once your in the 'safe' room, how do you get out, is there a latch on the inside, or do you have to call out and give someone the combination?
The safe room is cool but it should have all the utilities in it so if you are under attack they cant cut your utilities to draw you out and also they could smoke you out if its utlizing the same duct system for air as the rest of the house however hopefully you call out before any of that takes place.
Sure you would. At 14x18x8 (and I think the ceiling may be higher than 8") you'd have around 40 hours worth of air available for a single person before the CO2 level got high enough to be dangerous. (Dangerous, not even deadly) So for a family of 4, you'd have around 10 hours worth of air.
I wonder if the tap cons will hold up on that safe door? I have seen heavy security doors, jewelers rooms and doors they have heavy framing into the walls.
I was thinking the same thing. The installation instructions for this door call for a "clamp frame" and I don't even see why these tapcon screws were used. The installation seems irregular, if not improper. www.gunsafesamerica.com/content/ftknox_install.pdf
My take is that Mr Hull has installed that door at LEAST to manufacturers specifications and, most likely, even more so. There does not appear to be any corner cutting in his construction.
@@calvinjutila8270 what do you base this on? The manufacturers instructions call for a clamp frame to be bolted at the location of the tapcon screws on this installation.
When you were talking about “draw” in the fireplace were you talking about providing a wood fire with enough oxygen? Im interested in learning the best method for a wood burning fireplace in modern “tight” house.
Draw is sizing the flue for the amount of rise and volume. The only way to provide air to an open fire is to have outside air inlets at the bottom front edge. Woodstove with catalytic converters using that method works well, but expensive.
I have a wood stove to heat my entire house and before I poured the slab on grade I laid down some 6" PVC pipe to bring in fresh air under the stove, it's all hidden on inside under the stove and on the outside, the pipe comes up out of the ground like a snorkel with a couple of 90's and with fine mesh screen wire inside the opening and I cap it off in the warm season. Great draw for the woodstove. It is required by building code where I live.
You should consider a microphone for your guest speakers. There are several times in the video where Brent was facing away from the camera and you couldn't hear his explanation. That is very frustrating to the viewer.
Here's a question, why put the electrical outlets near the floor? Why not at chair-rail height where they would be easier to reach? They really do Section 8 housing right in Texas. :-|