Just spent the past few days not cutting rabbets so much as say m@ssacreing them. Bugs Bunny wept. This is a really nice follow up to my playtime. They didn't need to be very good this time.
Thank you Stumpy. Very useful information. I just purchased a rabbiting bit set so your video works out perfect for me. Great stuff always and I just stopped by my local Rockler store yesterday!
At 6:10, the fine adjustment wheel on your router lift is turning. I don't have a cool router lift like that, so I was wondering if that was a problem. Thanks for the videos!
Sharp eye! The actual screw was not moving, so it was not changing the position of the router, but it is interesting that the indicator wheel moves around...
Wow have you been busy or what a re alignment and anew order in the shop, Looks good until it's time to do it again and that day will come . Happy Trails
If you have a router table then you probably also have a table saw. Use the table saw to cut the rebate instead. Qucker, less dust, and you usually have an offcut that is potentially useful.
Yeah but flipping a large panel on it's edge is dangerous on a table saw, but you can just use a dado stack and a sacrificial fence, it will work either way.
Where's the promised link re: making custom router bases? I just did a project w/ polycarbonate sheet and I have a leaved-over piece about the right size, I think. Am I expected to be bright enough to go looking for that other video all by myself? Dang - THAT'S a STRETCH! (Cereally, though - thanks for another insightful one!!!)
Now, coming back to see if this had an answer, it seems that I probably implied that NOTHING was serious in my query. Oh well. Fact is, the router in question was given to me, without a base, so I never had the original for a template or clue to its design. Can't be TOO difficult, yeah, BUT -- of the several bolt (machine screw) holes in the METAL base, the biggest and beefiest have countersink tapers in the metal, which doesn't make any sense to me. The four that do NOT - well, they're only 4mm and in a totally whacked pattern that defies simple geometric layout. So I've managed to make one that KINDA fits, but it's not as pretty as I had hoped. And I'm still bewilderfied by the big countersunk, threaded holes. Me no savvy, bwana.
Hey, I see you use my favorite mechanical pencil - the Graph Gear 1000. What size lead do you prefer - I find 9 mm small enough for most things and it flat out doesn’t break, but have 5mm on order.
HI! Another great video, sir! Subscribed and liked! I have an Incra LS router system and have the capability of rabbeting larger panels (plywood carcasses mostly)and would both prefer to not use handheld routers or straight bits for rabbets in plywood, so I loved you're tip regarding dedicated bit sets and rabbeting nominal sized plywoods by applying tape to the fence face to dial-in a precise fit. It's genius! But, I'm wondering couldn't you just "nudge" the fence out (as you know, LS system micro-adjust is insanely accurate) INSTEAD of applying the tape to the fence? Physically nudging the fence out seems like the same as applying tape to the fence, both moving the wood slightly away from the cutter, right? Or am I missing something, here?
I have to look at the old tool wall but holy hell do your planes and chisels look amazing laid out cleanly. Every tool in a row and easy to turn and grab. I know you've done best hand tools for new woodworkers but I want to know what your favorite hand tools you always go to for everything. I see those Pentel mechanical pencils in many videos after Marc Wood Whisperer shows them off for Christmas gifts. Excited for that joint video!
Chisels. I love chisels. I have a lot, but I use almost all of them. While I believe a woodworker can get by with two or three chisels, it's sure nice to have a bunch of different chisels for different uses. I have a set of Stanley sweethearts (newer version) for paring, a set of Stanley Baileys (newer version) for regular work, a set of Stanley Everlasting (early 1900's) for heavy chopping, a set of Wood River butt chisels for tight work, a set of Stanley Fat Max for outdoor projects, a set of Narex chisels for whatever, and a dovetail set that includes a pair of skew chisels and a couple IBC chisels. Throw in a few misc. paring chisels, classic mortising chisels etc and those are my favorite hand tools :)
Stumpy Nubs I too have both Bailey and 750 big sets. Irwins for the big ones for heavy blows. Aldi for rough wood and learning to sharpen. I have one beautiful Everlast that is my very favorite. Next purchase is pairing set when I need them and have an excuse to buy yet more chisels. Forgot my Robert Sorby mourtise chisels. Bought those AFTER I mortised a bunch of things
No brand. I got them at a small hardware in my area years ago. People always think they are the finest chisels on my rack. I think I paid $10 for the three piece set. :)
, I did a dado today on 3 sheets of ply. A weird thing happened though which I can't work out. The final dado of the 3 was actually closer to the edge piece( edge being against the fence,, hand held router not table) by about 2mm. Usually one would expect it to move inwards if say the fence comes loose. If you have an idea please share ;). Ps could not see the links below this video you mentioned.
This is Garry not Linda. When I worked in a machine shop we did a LOT of work with metric specs that were converted to US. Most things were numerical so it was really easy. I never understood the explanation for the reasoning behind it. All I got out of it was that Imperial is more accurate than metric. That was until just last week. The reason why is that metric is divided by ten so the smallest division is 1/5". Imperial is divided by 12 so the smallest division is by 6 allowing 1/3, 1/4, 1/8, 1/32 and so on. Don't take my word for it check out the "Origins of Precision" video on the Machine Thinking You Tube channel. Once you are there check out the other videos like the first precision lathe, cutting threads and several others. I've watched every video but one. This guy has the knack to take a bore you to tears subject and make it interesting.
Try using any measuring tool and you'll find that is absolute fiction. Take a digital caliper for example. Measurements can be taken to almost any level of decimal places.
I won't need to be so precise, I just need to recess quarter inch plywood in 3/4" plywood for the back of a dresser I'm building. Has to be done by hand, piece too big for table. Still, thank you for the tips.
Production shops must run several router tables so as not to be constantly changing bits and dialing in height. Any recommendations for a quality set up that dials in height easily? I finally got a little porter cable router table to attach my big porter cable plunge router to. To say Im disappointed is an understatement. The router does not easily adjust to desired height and after one pass the lock lever vibrates loose and height changes mid pass. I know I need to fuss with that lever to eliminate slippage but this set up I have seems like super low end equipment. A true Craftsman can work wonders with less than ideal tools and average Joe can turn out junk on top of the line equipment however Id just prefer tools that are relatively easy to dial in. Obviously I have very little experience with routers but I have high expectations and am not at even close to achieving my desired results. I’d like to produce some beautiful pieces including custom doors and windows.
You have to look around but some online suppliers offer them in straight bits. I think the assumption with rebate bits is that you can cut the work piece oversized and then trim the excess off with a flush trim bit once the thing is assembled - you just have to buy 2 bits.
@@StumpyNubs nevermind lol. Watched a video on how to use the guide. I was just trying to use the edge guide on its own, and installed it backwards at that. Yikes, I'm new. The use of it makes so much more sense now. Thanks for the response!
May be time for the U.S.A to catch up with the rest of the world and convert to metric measurements. It's You have a metric monetary system already so keeping Imperial for everything else is a bit strange. Your plywood suppliers obviously prefer metric. It's so much simpler.
Not really, I understand it's in multiples of 10 but man, trying to wrap your head around another system when you were taught standard measurements is not the easiest thing to do. It would be like us asking the rest of the world to use standard measurements when they use metric. Oh and lumber suppliers use standard measurements here, they just cheat you out of 1/4 inch on all stock or 1/2 inch depending on what you are looking at.
People outside the USA seem to think that everything is Imperial measurements here. Not true. There are LOTS of metric measurements used. Every hardware store that I've been to here has both metric and imperial bolts, nuts, etc. What could be more 'merican than an F-250 Superduty diesel pickup truck? Lots of metric bolt heads and threads throughout this truck. I have as many metric tools as I do imperial tools (maybe more). I also have two metric tape measures (Fastcap True 32) and my PEC combination square has metric scales on it (down to 1/2 mm) as well as imperial scales (down to 1/64 inch). I am every bit as comfortable using metric as I am imperial. I don't see any personal benefit from switching from gallons to liters when refueling my vehicles, or judging my vehicles speed in kph vs mph, but when it comes to woodworking I sometimes choose to use metric exclusively for a project. 32mm cabinetry is a prime example where it would be foolish to try to convert that to imperial measurements--stick to metric. As far as "superiority" of one system over another--IMO that's just a waste of time and energy. Each system has its merits. Believe me that corporations won't hesitate to make decisions that save them money, so the reason that there are still lots of imperial measurements used here is that corporations have crunched the numbers and decided that changing in their circumstance doesn't save them money. I like metric and I like imperial too.
The solution is: Buy METRIC bits. SAE, or so-called "imperial" is an anachronism. Only holdouts in the world: Liberia, Myanmar (Burma) and the US. One thing we can say is, we are in good company, indeed...
