Shimano drivetrains are better than Sram, what are your arguments? They work smoother, shifts are always perfect and they cost less. Shimano shifters are also better - they have multidrop and better ergonomics.
reverse that, ive had nothing but problems with my shimano xt/slx drivetrain but i know people whose had sram for ever with no problems. And also shimano shifts like dog 💩 whenever theres a speckle of dirt on the chain
I have a t type and hate it. I can’t wait for gearboxes. It never stays in place beyond a ride. I torque checked and took it to 2 separate shops and it’s still dogshit.
How did you choose among the twelve Smashpot springs? (25 to 80 psi) A beautiful thing about air suspension is its ability to change spring settings relative to one’s skill level and terrain. It took me quite a bit of testing with Shockwiz to get my Fox 38 grip2 fork pressure and tokens where I liked them. I fear expensive, time consuming mistakes with coils. Conversion is a one-way trip per Vorsprung’s web page due to internal stanchion scoring.
I have a Fox 38, run it with a Vorsprung Secus (which requires about 15-20% higher air pressure) which puts me in the 128-132psi range as ideal. Don't have issues with air loss (certainly not to 90psi). I check the air pressure every 3 months or so and there is maybe 2 or 3 psi change but that's more to do with temperate change/season change. Something's not right with yours.
@@OtterMTBtech that's me and another person saying they don't lose air on their 38s so maybe you should do a poll or similar to see if you do have an issue with yours 👍
@@OtterMTBtech Every higher end fork I own gets sent to my local suspension pro for an express "new fork prep" which includes getting rid of that excess grease and to have the bushings burnished. Basically I'm not losing air because I have the factory glob of grease on their air spring.
Great video! I think you should take your Rocky to the local dealer and see if they think there is an issue with the motor that might be covered under warranty. Honestly mine is not all that loud and we have the same exact bike.
It’s seems little better now, I’m getting use to it, shifting on time . Then it over heated yesterday. On 1,000 foot fire road climb in 60 degree weather
And now I found this video.... You are the same as me. What are your settings for a swapped grip x. I'm 230lbs and pretty sendy. Do you have good x2 shock settings?
interesting comment on the rebound I'm 220lbs too and on my 34 factory 120mm fit4 (xc muscular bike) I used fox chart for the pressure and their rebound recommendation only to go uphill (lock for road, center pos for more bumpy trails) when I'm on top of the mountain I then set it to fastest to go down or yeah same thing it feels like the fork isn't using it's travel at all, disappointing to hear about the 38 losing pressure my 34 doesn't budge I wanted to redo it after months not riding it was still the same
Just checked the air pressure of my 29" Fox 38 fork after not riding it for 12 weeks and it had lost 1 psi so I'd suggest somethings not right with yours
@@OtterMTBtech ooh interesting, you have been very vocal around blader dampers providing better of the top suppleness. I’m curious Why does fox have such a supple feeling given they use a IFP?
They told me they were sending one and didn’t. Could be interesting because the fork felt best with no tokens. But it clanked hard. The tru tune Mostly for people who are light weight who need to use more travel. You can clip tokens under the insert part so it could be dope
@@OtterMTBtech I'm at the other end of the spectrum - around 125 or 130kg. Only riding a Yari (170mm), I've gone from 103psi with 2 tokens to 135psi with the trutune and one token. It feels more supple at the top, more supportive in the mid and I can still get all the travel under big hits. It's wild.
don't know but they sell specialized bicycle Fork and Shock Absorber Oil I imagine the number is the same as car oil but I honestly don't remember how it works on a bike and what to choose depending on your region weather and fyi those are all red coloured, lower number usually means it's fluid at lower temps but might be too fluid at high temp or the opposite too thick at cold temp but great on high temp but I really have no clue what kind of temps you reach and which one to choose on a bicycle
