I Just have to echo the other comments about the quality of this video. No inane chatter or tedious introductions, just jam-packed with information. Bravo.
I'd love to see a CNC like this, only with a sturdier lower bearing for the chuck. That I suspect is where much of the chattering is coming from. Does anyone make one like this?
@@garycaruso4883 The issue I have with most 3D routers on the market today is the lack of support at the the spindle chuck end to cope with side-loads. Escalation of expectations means that people attempt to use router spindles that are only supposed to cut plastic, wood etc. to cut aluminium, brass and even steel and end up trashing the spindle's built-in bearings with excessive side-wear. They will usually last long enough for a RU-vid video or two though. I have ideas of fitting a proper spindle to a low-cost CNC router using taper roller bearings to deal with side-loads and allow adjustment to reduce spindle slop. The actual rotary power to this taper-roller spindle would be supplied off the Z-axis via a flexible cable drive or similar. This would massively reduce the all-up weight on the Z-axis which would no longer have to carry the weight of the spindle motor. There are other advantages to this approach such as being able to mount the spindle axis a lot closer to the Z-axis rails since the 'naked' spindle should be a lot slimmer than a router motor body. This would result in an increase in machining precision since there would be less leverage and deflection when cutting into the side of harder materials such as metals.
2,000 dollars? You’re out of your mind. I would prefer to buy a bench top milling machine and put a cheap CNC conversion on it and get 100 times the machine.
In terms of ROI vs time spent watching, that was one of the very best videos I’ve seen on any subject. Just received the Vasto - still in the boxes. Had decided on a Shapeoko because of the community, support, etc but along came the Vasto with 40w diode and features versus price that rocked the boat. Kudos to you - you have a new subscriber. Looking forward to your future productions on the subject.
Wow. I think that might just be the best and most thorough review (of anything) I've ever seen!! Watched through from start to finish and you answered every one of my questions (except one). I'm also $2300 poorer now, thank you for that--but I am looking forward to taking delivery! ;) You've earned my subscription. The one question I have is what do you think of vacuum systems (vs. blown air) for these machines?
Thanks. You will want to use a dust shoe / boot for dust extraction, the only reason I don't use one while filming is because it blocks the camera view. The air blast is there to clear chips away from the end mill.
Thanks so much for your video, it was fantastic. Coming from a 3D printing background, the concepts and steps you covered made me feel far less 'terrified' of this new direction I'm heading toward. Cheers, JAYTEE
I have just started getting into watching videos about diy cnc, and I have to echo all the other comments, this video is very thorough, no filler, it makes me want this machine. I have a small custom-made guitar amplifier business, and using this to mill aluminium sheet to make chassis is my goal. It's at the top of my list now.
Could you make a video on the 1.5kW spindle ? How it mounted to the Z axis, which VFD you chose, how you did the wiring, but also how you integrate it with the GRBL software. Did you need to upgrade the Z axis linear rails/ball screws or stepper motors ? If upgrading the wm3020 machine, do you expect the Z axis would need upgrading for a 5-6kg spindle and adapter mounting plate ?
First time on your channel…..I’m f-king subbing. No fluff review, straight to the point. Just the right amount of fast forward jump cuts to convey the information. The music was pleasant, not annoying👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
These certainly have a market depending on what material you will use the most. Honestly if you are primarily working with metal it's price easily puts you in the RF-15 class milling machine range minus the CNC conversion. Just something to consider for those looking into these since cuts in steel will have to be pretty light to avoid chatter. This one does appear to be nicely built compared to other small cnc routers I have looked at.
@@arbjful completely different concepts and pricing tiers. Sherline is precision equipment aimed at machining small to very small parts on a very rigid cross table structure. This one is a budget CNC router designed for carving / milling / engraving reasonably sized flat work pieces and for a limited amount of 3D carving / engraving (as long as some constraints are satisfied), since it makes use of linear rails and ball screws it can carve soft metals with ease and low maintenance requirements. Please note other CNC routers in lower price tiers won't be able to do the same, and if you carefully browse their listings you'll most likely see they can *engrave*, while the terms "carving" and "milling" are carefully and tactically omitted.
What comparable machine would you recommend for only cutting aluminum or copper cabinet and chassis for high end audio amplifiers? Most of the copper and aluminum plate that is use is less than 3/8".
I’m just learning about purchasing a CNC router for metal and aluminum work. While I’m not familiar with current pricing on well-known brands, it seems like someone fabricated this as a DIY machine, perhaps using the sponsor, PCBway???? It just seems that if you are going to go the consumer, open-source, Arduino route and will be assembling this yourself, it’s a bit over priced IMO? Is this a truly unbiased review?
As I expected by seeing what the framing looked like: *this will chatter like crazy with steel.* Sure enough, that's what they (effectively) said here in in there steel cutting attempt. He is right that a higher torque spindle would improve this, as the cutter was noticeably slowing even on the shallower ramp angles. A slowing spindle means even higher chipload, so more chatter and cutter breakages. Using a 1/4 base to a stubby 1/8" end mill would probably be this machine's best bet for trying to cut steel, but you will rightly feel like you are abusing the machine every time you try. Flood coolant will also help a lot, but it won't make a non-rigid machine rigid. It will make cutting alu so much nicer _and quieter._ (all that is from years of use experience with cnc router at home, comparably built but in a smaller overall build, and with upgrades like flood coolant)
The stock spindle is useless for milling steel, but with the 1.5kW spindle it is a totally different machine (shown towards the end of the video). I regularly cut steel with it, you just have to use high rpm and light cuts. Avoiding any resonance. Also a few sand bags help to dampen the bed. It requires a different approach to using a mill.
FoxAlien Vasto bit.ly/3kV2L5w FoxAlien Vasto with 40W laser bit.ly/3PczH7o FoxAlien low profile vice bit.ly/3sv0Ngr Some of the links above are affiliate links. If you click on the link and buy something, you will not pay anything extra, but I might receive a small income, which is used to pay for future videos.
Hats off to your detailed work as always, U always do an amazing job and this way people who don't know much can also learn more about it, respect & Love to U at all times!!!
I'm interested in cutting sheets of mild steel 0.75mm is this machine good for that? also looking to compare it with Nymolabs NBS-6040 it also has Linear Rails & Ball Screws on Every Axis but not closed loop like this.
Yes with the right tooling you can cut sheet steel but If you are doing it in a professional capacity then you would probably use a laser, plasma or waterjet.
Hello again, sorry to keep troubling you. At 19:33 you put macros in on button 3 and 4 to find the edge in the X and Y directions respectively. Do you then use this information on the SW scale to move both X and Y in by half the cutter diameter to find the exact corner? Thanks again for any pointers.
For very shallow cuts like you tried on the first steel pockets I would try a fresh HSS end mill instead. Carbide is undoubtedly a better end mill material but it cannot be made as sharp as HSS due to its manufacturing. For shallow cuts and feed rates try a high flute count HSS bit.
Question on your Feed Rates. I bought the Vasto and found the max feed rates on X and Y axis are set to 1500 mm/min $110 = 1500.000 (X-axis maximum rate, mm/min) $111 = 1500.000 (Y-axis maximum rate, mm/min) Are you sure your published feed rates were achieved?
My machine operates at over 5000mm/min, you have to test and find where it starts missing steps then decrease to about 80%. It is machine dependent, careful alignment helps. Increasing the acceleration too much will cause problems. Also the XL and XXL machines cannot achieve the same speeds.
Hello. I was thinking in buying one of this FoxAlien Vasto CNC. Do you think is possible to use a 80mm 2.2KW Spindle in this cnc? I know the supplied clamp/holder is only 65mm which is perfect for 1.5KW round spindle. Would be possible to use a Square 2.2KW Spindle? Do you know what is the distance between holes that held in place spindle clamp, 4 on each side? Thanks.
Yes others have used 2.2kW 80mm spindles. You just have to drill the right mounting holes in the 80mm holder or make up an adapter plate. The mounting holes are 70mm horizontal spacing, 25mm vertical spacing (75mm total)
This is a great documentation of what the machine can do. In the future it would be good if included the information on the particular aluminum and steel alloys you are cutting. There are several differences in common stock and when evaluating a machine that data would be required for an apples to apples comparison.
@@JulienStoeffler Yeah this CNC is cutting the bright mild steel fairly well. I'm looking at options for milling fine injection molds and it looks like with the right feeds and speeds on shallow cut this could be exactly what I'm after.
@@robertmartin2936 I've started metal working on a hobby CNC router, which is not as good as this one. It is definitely challenging, and what you want to do sounds a bit demanding (I'm not familiar with injection molds, but I imagine it's hard steel and it needs a lot of precision). Not saying you can't do it, but it's going to be time consuming to understand the limitations of the machine, and the impact it has on the milling operation. That may sounds a bit abstract, but for example those spindles are high RPM, so you need small tools, and small tools have more deflection and break easier. There are low RPM spindles, but they're expensive, and then the machine rigidity may be too weak then, because of the high torque. The frame is made of aluminium, which doesn't absorb vibrations, which means the tool, will only last a few hours on hard steel... So I think if you buy such a "cheap" machine (it looks great in its category), you need to manage your expectations, in terms of time it will take to get something done. For me it's also part of the fun, but it can be frustrating sometimes, and in you case it could mean taking a week to make 1 part, and having to start over 3 or 4 times.
this thing can cut steel?? wow! I have been told everywhere that this kind of (cheap) CNC routers don't work well with ferrous metals. I wonder if it can also cut titanium or tungsten
@@absolute___zero So long as you can adjust the machine to run shallow enough cuts with the right speeds and feeds just about any machine can cut steel, although the cut quality may not always be the greatest.
I just pulled the trigger on one of these and I can't thank you enough for this video!!! This makes a terrific starting point, especially the Aluminum and steel. Thanks also for the links for the bits. I got the 1.5 kw spindle as well. Should be here in about a week!!! Yee Hah!!!
@@wukawak1057 Hi, So far so good. I got delayed setting it up and so I'm just now adjusting and tuning. I also bought the 1.5 kw Spindle but I haven't gotten that installed yet (More reading) . I'd make a video but TechyDIY did such a good job with this one I don't know what I could contribute.
If that's the sort of thing you're into, there's an existing project called PrintNC that's extremely capable. Also MPCNC, but that's more hobbyist and the guy that runs the project is pretty... reserved... about community involvement and contributions.
I like this machine, but it's little too expensive! Is there a solution to build a similar CNC machine? I want the same or similar performance to a smaller price! I have the option to mill and get some of the component made (almost free or very cheap). Is there anyone done a DIY with same performance? Would like to get under 1400 dollars. I have started designing a machine but the electronics is not something I am familiar with.
everything but linear rails, i don't think it'd be all that hard to modify it, replace the upper rollers on the side supports with a block to mount a linear bearing, it might raise the height a bit, some flt bar under the rail itself. the other axis would have the mod on the bottom to bring it back down, the only problem then is the upper rail. maybe a block with ears milled in to extend the mount... that's the only hard part of modding it. not sure, but i think the z is already linear rails.
@@techydiy yah, took a look around, there's a massive ONE video on converting the 4030 to linear rails, it's been done, but... perhaps it's just such a peculiar idea that it's that rare.
The is 4 God dry professional analysis of this ...U.K.e honest took how much does it out I'll buy or right now and team it be 4 the weekend but still need I e for my .... Prone vs for the N.W.O
How does this compare with a sherline mill? Can this be used for milling small aluminum parts? Our production volume is not high, 10-20 parts per month, mostly design and development, we need to mill aluminum and brass sometimes steel
I'm looking for a smaller CNC router that has most or all of the features of the Vasto featured here -- ball-screws, linear rail supports, decent-sized stepper motors or preferably closed-loop synchronous motors etc. but in a smaller package, something in the 3018 form factor if possible. Other good things would be an uprated spindle motor to start with, preferably air-cooled rather than a water-cooled spindle motor with VFD since that's more complexity than I really want to deal with given the limited space I have in my workshop. Is there anything like that in the market? I've been monitoring the Makera Kickstarter offering, the desktop Carvera with some interest but I'm open to other possible offerings if they're out there, especially at a lower price point.
@@techydiy I'm looking for something, even assembled from a kit-of-parts like the Vasto, that works well out-of-the-box as a router but fits into the 3018-sized desktop workspace. I'd prefer not to design my own machine from individual parts, I'd rather have a kit I can assemble and have confidence it will work well from day one. The Foxalien Vasto looks like a decent design in that regard, absent the flex in the frame you demonstrated in the video, but it's just bigger than I can cope with in my limited working space.
@@robertsneddon731 hi Robert, please comment if/when You find what you're after. I have exactly the same expectations as yours. from a new cnc router. Thanks
I have a Stepcraft 420, which I mostly use for machining brass and nickel silver. I've never tried steel, as I've not needed to, and I'm reluctant to cut it dry. I have bought ball screws to upgrade my Stepcraft, but have not yet fitted them. Metal cutting machines of a domestic size like these are wonderful - and I love mine - I'm glad to see other machines on the market. The one thing this video didn't cover was the accuracy of the finished parts. Certainly it should be possible to produce some small, delicate and accurate work. Mine does, so I dare say this will/could.
Did the bits wear very quickly due to heat and lack of lubrication? I have a large CNC I use for woodworking, but don't think I would be able to do metal work on it without cooling lubrication.
No, the end mills have coatings designed for it and if the feeds and speeds are calculated correctly then the chips should be taking away heat. You can see smoke in some of the steel footage, which is just the oil from the surface of the steel burning off.
@@techydiy I have a 2hp spindle, so I guess I need to give this a shot with the appropriate endmills. What have you found (brand, pn) that worked well?
I really found this video very useful and well put together. Question, did you actually measure the electrical power used by that 40W laser at max power setting?
@@techydiy I am using the 40w gold laser (LaserTree?), works pretty ok. I measured the electrical power at 18w (12V x 1.5A) at 100% power. I really don't know why they call it a 40W laser.. Anyway, I was interested to know the electrical power for that laser you are using in the video. Thanks!
I'm not able to make those adjustments that you did on your setting on my brand new vasto machine I bought, and can a masuter pro under the same program the vasto?
@@techydiy sorry about that complain, you made a great video, but i don't understand why people don't do any tests of engraving on metal with CNC, this is very important to see and i can't find such videos.
hi please shed some light on a project i want to make, i want to have the back of my fight tank has infinity mirror, i was thinking maybe i can use the back of the tank as one mirror then add another mirror in front with leds in between with a frame holding the mirror into the back of the tank, my questions are do i use one way mirror on the back of the tank? if so do i need the reflective part looking away from front of the tank or looking in? and does it need to be installed from outside? if so which film do you recomnd, also as for the mirror part do i need the second part be glass with mirror film on it or can a mirror film be used say on wood or wall?
Thank you for a very informative video of how to set up and use. At about 12:58 you describe how you set the Z zero at 3.20mm bottom. What advantage/difference does this make over setting to 3.20mm top? Thank you
I am on the fence with fox alien because it is a belt-driven system, I love all of the features of their CNC's and would place an order today - if it was not belt driven. I currently do not have a CNC nor have much knowledge of cnc's I am looking for a 12x24" with spindle which made the 4040 very desireable - it is between the 4040 and shapeoko 5.
i am interested in this cnc machine to buy,i am from croatia but i just cant figure out on ebay how to choose the 1.5kw spinde from your video.if you could help with some help
Hi, great review! But don't you think the x-axis ball screw that is not properly protected and covered cannot be damaged by the accumulation of sawdust and milling waste? Cheers
It's a very slow way to make a pcb. I was thinking of buying a cheapo cnc to make my pcb's, but then I watched GreatScott's video about this, and it is almost invariably simpler and quicker to etch your own PCB's. Or, there are services which can make them for you for $2 a PCB! Hence, I've shelved the idea of getting a cnc for this purpose.
Etching certainly gives better results, except for drilling holes and outlines etc. the cnc excels at that. The Cnc allows you to do far more than etch pcbs, like cut face panels, machine custom knobs etc.
This machine ticks all the boxes in terms of build spec, can you tell me if the laser could be upgraded to one of new 40w output units from X Tool or Atomstack.
I tried the setting on my machine and as soon as I tried to jog at full rapid speed one of the y axes motor lost steps and the gantry racked. I take it your machine can rapid at 5000mm/min without any issues?
Thank you for doing this, this cnc seems to possibly be what I have been looking for. Do you think that if one upgraded to a powerful spindle and braced the bed, that the device could cut a knife profile with a steel thickness of say 3-4 mm, or would that be too ambitious?
Hi first very nice review as others mentioned. Now, I have looked at the controller box @4:11 and I don't see a way to connect a 4th axe to the machine. Do you think it would be possible to add a 4th axe without having to change the controller altogether ?
love this machine! What do users respond to noise level of unit. I know spindle vrs router produce less noise, are there other steps to make unit quieter?
@@techydiy It's just that the way it's mentioned in the title made it seem like a selling point or something. I was curious what other possibilities could exist since I've only ever heard of linear rails on CNC.
