Moot Three CNC Machine SBR20 Linear Rails / SFU1605 Ballscrews 

Hallo, sind die Pläne in mm oder Zoll ? Danke sehr viele schöne Videos. 👍👍👍

I design everything in millimetres.

What is the cad software name ?

@@miladfozooni3371 Fusion 360

LMFAO 🤣🤣🤣

And that was my small hammer 😅

Oh no, so it would be sensible to locktite each fixing. 😅

Thanks. It's been a while!

Can't wait to see your CNC lathe build! Happy new year too! :))

I did enjoy the challenge

I think if you can spend a little more it is worth it but everyone has their own budget so hopefully this can get someone started or thinking about making their own machine.

It is amazing how little information is sometimes available around products online! Google image search can sometimes help.

@@EducatingSavvas trust me i pulled out every trick in the toolbox. I am a master Googler, so this one was really pissing me off.

I think you may have a point. A scary thought. I think an enclosure is always the safest option.

If you use dust extraction at the source of cutting it will be be minimal, but you will have to do periodic cleaning as good practice.

I will say this: aluminum has a high rate of thermal conductivity. With all things the increase in temperature comes an increase in size, and thus distortion. You simply can’t get “high” accuracy with aluminum frames based on this constant alone. Granite, epoxy concrete, and steel will give you superior rigidity for machine frames. I understand that will increase the weight, you just need to ask yourself if your priorities lie with precision or light weight.

I think with any machine, you should have a schedule of maintenance and cleaning. Also I would always use dust extraction. A hood which isn't installed for the video would collect a lot of the debris while milling so I don't think it'll be an issue. But an air feed could be installed to blast the contact points.

From what I've experience from using sensorless homing on 3D printers - it's pretty accurate. On the duet the sensorless homing and stall detection are separate commands so you can home and probably even probe once set up, without the fear or stalling during normal operations. I've actually set up full sensorless homing on two machines at work and they seem ok despite the v-wheel system which is not a fluid moving as well calibrated ballscrew and linear rails. Fingers crossed but I'm optimistic.

@@EducatingSavvas Interesting. Would love if you have time to do a repeatability test once ready, meaning homing, then go to probe to see offset, then repeat x-times. That should certainly show if it's precise enough. On the Duet3d website they specify "...the actual position of the stall is uncertain to either +/- half a full step or +/- 2 full steps. This means that when using stall detection to replace endstop switches, the position defined by the stall is much less accurate than with typical endstop switches." But, think you are right that with the right HW the sensitivity could be fine enough that it's very reliable. I hesitate to implement on my Screwdriven WorkBee with those flimsy (long 1500mm) leadscrews. Have no experience to backup this hesitation however! :) Looking very much forward to see how your machine turns out in operation and see how far it can be pushed.

Thanks and glad you've found the content useful and interesting. I'm using much smaller 2.8A Nema 23 steppers in this project. For me the power from those is enough to get some decent cutting speeds. It's advisable to set the current to 80% of what is advertised - so mine ran at 2.24A. The duet 2 can supply a max of 2.4A so in theory you could use 3.0A max.

Thank you for your reply and the information regarding the stepper motors you have used on this build. I see the Duet 3 board has a much higher current rating and extra features thanks to the TMC2160, and I after watching your video on using Stall Guard to home the Z-Axis I think I will invest in a New Duet 3 Myself when I can afford the upgrade . I have really enjoyed your channel over the years and its the one place I come back to for good info and advice using the Duet board as a CNC controller. I like the way you break things down and explain in detail what your thinking and planning to do as you design and build each project.

I like the ease of cutting birch ply or valchromat sheets, and the design challenge associated with those materials.

The bill of material with guidance notes is now available with the purchase of the plans on my website.

Damn it - you are right. I also just modelled it in CAD to double check. I think I confused myself because if I had trammed a long parallel shaft in a spindle, and the z axis was tiling along the y axis - the tool would travel back and forwards on either the up or down z movement. Which I has done and checked on previous machines. But because I was being lazy I just assumed the same was true for the Z plate. I stand corrected.

@@EducatingSavvas and when using a shaft in the spindle, i like to turn the spindle by hand to average the possible runout on any height of the shaft.

It's been so long I can't remember the exact numbers - but it fast enough to not feel like you were waiting long.

Me too but it is a small machine which helps. Valchromat which is a synthetic hard cheese is a great material. I'd like to do some drawing with this machine as well. I can't believe you still have your lathe in your kitchen. 😂

@@EducatingSavvas I still expected the crash you had at 1:19 to look worse on the x than the y. So them gantry side plates are more rigid than the nod flex. It's bloody heavy, lol. Tubalcain just got given near the exact same. Hoping he does another vid on it and maybe answers some queastions I asked.

Yep they do - generic hole milling at either end of the profile, and will accept custom machining as well - although that can be more expensive.

@@EducatingSavvas the expense can sometimes be worth it if your doing your first machine though, I can imaging drilling these with a hand drill 😳

Get yourself on some forums. Plenty of folk with lots of experience who will cut the files out for you :) Good luck with the build!

plywood is great unless you are working in steel milling and high end applications. however. the overall design of structural integrity is a little more important working with technical woods. think in terms of building a bridge. with many edges, repetitive support screws and rectangular supports brings you far. if you fold a piece of din a 4 paper, you can make a bridge carrying 10 grams or so... so. and of course: the shorter the bridge, the less it hangs. that simple. alluminium hangs 1 mm after 1 meter(unsupported with a 20kg z axis.) a good and heavy z axis therefore is a good thing if you want a even cut,e.g. in alluminium i guess. honestly. i also thing in terms of using simply stone. and if space is no biggy a portal design might help with regidity. (the x rail is half working space then only. think about that. if you get 2.2 rails for 80 euros- it does not matter.) the drive system is a problem with bigger designs i guess. over 1,5 m one might tend to 25 plus ballscrews or rack and pinion essentially...(r and p better scales in length) i will start with plywood as well, i guess. and theses 'cheap' rails are good enough for the beginning and give a good piece of support. for high end and steel milling the hgh rails are more common. ballscrews have a good reputation for harder materials(steel) as well. if you work with woods you might neglect deflection totally.

I've been a bit lazy and not written the full parts list and costing because I'm letting people generate that from the step file CAD. But I'll do that soon and estimate a cost. 😅

@@EducatingSavvas Totally understandable, alot of people would already be happy with a rough cost estimate and what the work area is. Thank you for sharing!

​@@aether_antares7761 So I found my parts list which I had forgotten I wrote - everything on the machine itself (not including electrical controller) and minus the parts you would make yourself such as the plates and 3D printed components, you are looking at £750 roughly. I bought the linear rails and ball screws as a bundle which cost around £230, aluminium profile and t-nuts was £180, steppers around £100, remaining fixings around £120, and remaining parts such as drag chain and spindle mount £120. But when you add a spindle and good quality electronics you are always looking at around 1.5k. I'll make the parts list available in the new year once I've verified it hasn't got too many mistakes. The cutting capacity is 430 along the X axis and 830 along the Y, and 100mm along the Z axis. The part count is 772 compared to 1076 for the Moot One.

Amazing tool

The jaw couplers are definitely better but more expensive. But as you can see the motors I've used are fairly small, and this should mean my max speed and max instantaneous speed changes will be low enough to not cause noticeable problems.

No 60x30mm profile

SORTED

I don't know, but I should buy some lottery tickets to see how far my luck lasts. Probably not very far. Lol.

Thats actually more inaccurate. Now he has 2 ball screws on the Y axis, this means 2 limit switches so the Y gantry can't skew itself because it zero's both sides.

@@aether_antares7761 until one of the steppers stall and the machine tears it self apart. Both configuration have advantages, but if low cost it the goal, a single screw and stepper makes sense

@@fuzzy1dk That's is an issue that I'm hoping never happens. You can enable motor stall detection in the duet controller which could prevent the tearing apart bit, but the likelihood of a motor failure is very unlikely. I think the controller will also detect if stepper wiring is not installed properly.

Had to move out of the studio as the building was closing down - so I'm recouping for a while, and working on some art projects instead. Not sure when I'll be back.

Dam it, another toy I don't have.

The main difference is the moot three machine looks more beautiful. The risk is if you build it, you might end up marrying the CNC machine. In theory the Moot One might be little easier to calibrate but it can't be scaled up as large due to the aluminium profile I used - compared to the two and three. I never got a chance to really put the Moot Three through it's paces as I had to let go of my studio last July but I felt confident it was really beautiful.

@@EducatingSavvas so. thanks. i wont build it. guess ill hopefully be able to make "my own" design. sbr 20 or paying double for hgr20 blockrails in that size of machine!? is it worse it?

But did you factor your own time... Lol.

It was a lot off mistake and a good challenge but now I can make one in about 2 days I plan to make a pink one very soon I think I will time it