Frame, Crankset & Bottom Bracket combos that work best 

Big subject. I might tackle that bite size.

@@Mapdecthis needs to be done

A few tips before a future video… 1. Loctite Thread Lockers. Used to lock or seal threads… not a substitute for an adhesive or gap filler. Best to use Loctite Blue, which is a medium sealer designed to prevent threads coming loose under vibration. Threads sealed with Loctite Blue can be disassembled without the use of heat (Loctite Red requires heat from a propane torch to break the adhesive bond and, because of this, isn’t generally used on bikes). Clean male and female surfaces with brake cleaner or lacquer thinner (be careful because some cleaners and thinners are not paint or carbon safe). Let dry. Then clean parts a second time using a fresh swab. (Loctite makes a product for cleaning but this is much more difficult to find). Let dry. Place a small drop of Loctite on the male thread to be sealed. Then install and tighten to torque within a minute or two. Do not wipe off excess. Let dry for 24 hours. Any subsequent disassembly or even re-torquing requires all of the steps to be repeated. Old thread locker will not “re-seal”. Thread lockers can be fairly difficult to remove too, sometimes requiring a small pick or brush to agitate particles free. 2. Anti-Seize. Used to prevent galling or reduce galvanic bonding. Numerous compounds… aluminum, zinc, copper, silver, ceramic. All of these have unique temperature ranges, none of which are bike part will ever come close to exceeding. So don’t worry about which anti-seize compound to use… they’ll all do the job. Optimal use case is with dissimilar metals (prone to galvanic bonding) or stainless steel (prone to galling). Clean threads manually (no need for special cleaners), apply a thin swipe of anti-seize compound to male component, assemble, and tighten/torque. Anti-seize compounds are slippery and can increase tightness by reducing thread friction, so beware when approaching recommended fastener torques (which are usually intended for dry threads). Wipe off excess. Avoid getting anti-seize compound on clothing… it’s almost impossible to remove… and hands. Reapplication is not needed for simple disassembly or re-torquing. It’s usually needed if the fasteners are subjected to chemical solvents though. 3. Grease. Used for components subjected to movement, rotation, sliding etc. Grease is not a thread locker. Nor is it anti-seize, though it can work as a very poor substitute because some greases contain lithium or graphite compounds that reduce galling and displace moisture (the latter helps reduce electrolytic corrosion). Books can be written about greases and there are industry systems for denoting grease quality (eg. NLGI #). A quick and dirty definition is that grease contains oil, thickening agents (called soaps), and some kind of metalloid compound (such as those based on lithium or molybdenum) held in suspension whose role it is to take load and absorb shock. Oils lack two or more of these constituents. For all their complexities, greases can degrade over time. A sure sign of this is separation between the oil and soap. One often sees the result of this in very old grease where the oil has run out or evaporated, leaving behind a wax like substance. Anyone refurbishing old wheel bearings will have seen this. Lighter weight greases (NLGI 0, 1 or 2) are used in most cycling applications because the bearing loads are modest, the operating temperatures are low, and there’s usually a requirement for reduced bearing drag. Synthetic NLGI 0, 1 or 2 greases, or those with Teflon additives are sometimes used when there is a need for very low drag, such as a freewheel hub or suspension components. (To illustrate what I’m talking about here, Slickoleum grease specs as at NLGI 1.5… roughly the same as Park Tool’s HPG-1. PPL-1 appears to be a bit closer to NLGI 2. ) Racers will sometimes use oil instead of grease for some bearings but this raises the requirement for disassembly, cleaning, and lubrication after every ride. This also requires the replacement of components at the same time due to excessive wear. Always wipe off excess grease after assembly… it attracts dirt. Grease is something that should be reapplied on a periodic basis… like annually on crank or wheel bearings or anytime a part is subjected to solvents. Idk anything about carbon pastes, so can’t add anything on that subject. When not to use anything at all…. Stems, bars, etc. are usually made from the same metal, so galvanic corrosion isn’t a big issue. They are supposed to be friction-tight too. Stem bolts do benefit from a dab of Loctite though, as this is a component that you don’t want rattling loose. Seat rails don’t require anything either, despite frequently being dissimilar metals (rails steel, clamp aluminum). Paint on these components adequately isolate the metals from direct contact. Park Tool has a handy chart highlighting what to use for various applications. Scroll down to the bottom of the page… www.parktool.com/en-int/blog/repair-help/the-park-tool-guide-to-bicycle-lubricants-and-compounds

My neighbour's Talon e3+ is falling apart and the dealer is in denial about it .

​@@paulgrimshaw8334 I thought that this was the foreword of a thesis .

Bb86 works fine?

@@TrickyTree84 on mars.

nice. One of the lucky ones.

​@@MapdecLucky?? A majority have bb86 running just fine. Seems this rider is just one of most of us with no issues. It's the vocal minority that are the unlucky ones.

I did 10,000 miles in UK winter on a bb86. I took it out to rebuild the bike and it was still absolutely fine

Just change the bearings in what you have.

Great bearings for tough conditions. I once fitted them to a tricycle that went to the arctic.

29mm for dub 👍

@@Mapdec ah yeah true, anyone buying will need the hope reducer spacers, available separately 👍 Hope T47 BB came with those spacers in the box.

Don’t do that.

@@Mapdec i might a little bit late.. i have a Giant TCR with 41 BB hole..but i've already bought a sram red crankarm with sram bb86.5. is that really a very serious "no go"?

@@Heizie999 well your forced into that by the rest of the groupset. It’s not ideal. But what can you do?

Weight and stiffness PF rules but you are relying on the frame manufacturer to make the holes bob on and they seem incapable of doing that largely.

I think it really depends on the BB shell. My custom steel has a BB shell that is machined from thick steel (in fact, I think it is pre-threaded and the BB is made extra thick so as to not warp during heating). It has ZERO problems with Campag Powertorque, the "lowest" spec crankset, with external BSA cups. In contrast, I routinely hear BB's creaking on the same climb I do, coming almost always with carbon frames and pressfit internal bearings. In fact, during the Pro Tour races, prior to threaded BBs in high end frames, I'd say that atleast 50% of the pro's bikes could be heard creaking as they stood up on a 12% gradient to make it over the top. We were quite surprised to witness this from bikes ridden by the likes Evans, Horner and Contador.

Yep. If everything is made well, they work.

Glad it was helpful!

Trying 😁. It was a good show. Hope you enjoyed it.

BB86 would be better if your frame is sound.

Perfect. Protech is a bit draggy. Stick to the original. Be sure to read the campagnolo manual.

@@Mapdec thanks for the reply 😊🚴🏻Pete

Sounds about right. The 30mm axle would be better.

@@Mapdec thank you!

You’re all good. 👍

@@Mapdec alright so the standard SRAM DUB bb is ok? I had a look at Hope etc. but not sure if it is worth it

i'll see what I can do.

@@Mapdec Thanks..! All the other videos I've watched are like... check if it's rough (too vague), or spin to see if it make sounds (ceramic ball def makes more sound I think, or if spin too much it's worn (or just a good BB fit or just need re-lubing).

Rotor do a direct 386evo to 24mm without adaptors.

I can’t see how that would be physically possible. It would need to be coke can thin.

@@Mapdec That was my suspicion, I may just get a new chainset with a 24mm axle when it comes time to replace the BB. Thanks for the advice.

The Mog is T47i 85,5mm. You won’t be able to fit an external.

@@Mapdec Thanks And stil I have so much to learn 👍

Shimano is your only choice now. Back when it was made GxP would be ok too.

@@Mapdec Thank you

I think you have got mixed up. Bb30 is a 42mm bore for a 6806 direct fit bearing for a 30mm crank axle. PF30 is a 46mm bore for a bearing carrier. You can effectively fit whatever you like with PF30

Always start with the best frame for you, then (suspension) wheels, tyres and finally groupset.

@@Mapdec right ok, got it

Ouch. What do you hate about AXS? Really Cannondale should use the special DUB Ai crank last they made SRAM make, instead of their hollowgram stuff. Running Shimano on these frames is a game of adaptors and shims.

@@Mapdec that's sad :) Another one - will a HG crank fit on a Canyon Inflite? :D I'm thinking about swapping a Sram Rival group from my previous bike then. Thx!

Depending on Cannondale asymmetry you will need adaptors and shims to step down, correct chain line and preload bearings.

FSA has a table with all combinations of various bb standards and cranksets and for each they give a list of necessary adapters.

Go with the Rotor BB. If you want maybe pull out the stock 6806 and put some low contact NTN in there.

Is the extra cost of ck with plastic adaptor worth to save the alloy axle from damage?

@@Mapdec ahh yes that’s great advice, didn’t think of that! that’s gotta be the sweet spot in terms of final costs as well! thank you sir!

I recomend you avoid that combo at all cost.

I'm running BBInfinite BB86 for 30 mm. Zero issues. I'm pretty sure they sell adapters for DUB. Ask them, they are very responsive.

@@ivanivanov7064 thank you I’ll take a look

I see bb86 or pf86 on a lot of bikes these days as I was looking for a gravel bike, up to around €2500. is it only good for shimano? Is it any good at all?

@@HNedel yeah. I would only put Shimano on that.

OSBB (61 x 46 mm), Specialized's proprietary BB standard. Since 2015, they have ditched this BB standard.

Ohhhjj. Did you not read the instructions….. neither. Unless your frame is oversized Then you can choose to use a retaining compound to fill the gap.

​@@MapdecUndersized? Not oversized? Don't undersized bores need reaming?

@@yonglingng5640 yes. Well spotted. Will edit.

yes.

@@Mapdec dude.

@@oftankoftan yes. The one I showed in the vid. The SRAM factory BB.

@@Mapdec well slap my ass and call me charlie, I missed that bit.

😂

Pretty much the same principle as Dub.

@@Mapdec except much more common bearings, no?

The bearings are industrial, the bb holes are not :)

Because of the big step down you end up with adaptors and weight. It’s fine, but it’s not perfect. It’s a better compromise than the other way round.

Watch again from 2:46 he also mentions a solution to go for the bigger bearing size and use a plastic adaptor, is lighter and also protects the spindle a little bit from grinding of overrotation

Tks for the quick reply - noted. However, I recently saw a Praxis T47 internal on a 24mm Shimano spindle wo an adapter. Seems like they make them for smaller spindles. I’m just a home mech working on my own bikes so curious - that’s all.

@@MokaBouchai know what you mean. those praxis bb’s come standard on trek bikes with t47 and shimano groupset. the bearings are either non industry standard bearings or the stepdown is basically on the outside, smaller hole for a smaller bearing with 24mm inner diameter.. i can’t remember right now, i had mine apart a while ago… the takeaway is that good bottom brackets should have industry standard bearing cause there’s lots of good options, prices and stock. so that you could replace bad bearings instead of having a completely proprietary bottom bracket with bad cycle only bearings

a complete bb shouldn’t be a throwaway product, especially if it’s so easy to service like a screw in t47

Frustrating. They need proprietary tools that are poorly made. They use INA/FAG bearings that don't offer any particular advantage for the price they charge. They come in colours that match your other parts.

@Mapdec any recommendations for easton chainset with a 86 pressfit bb

@@markstone722 ouch. The best of a terrible situation is best served with a BBinfinate. However, weather sealing is poor. The Easton BB are better sealed, but any misalignment will kill bearings. I’d get a different crankset to be honest.

@Mapdec appreciated, I go through a bb every cyclocross reason. Maximum 15 races so the timescale is measured in hours.

Disagree there. Bb386evo is the best.

I felt that.

@@SonnyDarvishzadeh At least the fatties are out on the bike trying to do something about it.

The term is more to say what the standard is for a particular thing. For instance a BSA BB should meet the standard of being 1.37 inches at 24 threads per inch. A BB86 should meet the standard of being between 40.95mm and 41mm bore and 86.5mm wide.

@@Mapdec I find a lot of definitions of the word "standard" and that doesn't seem to fit any of them. Here is the closest I found. "an object that is regarded as the usual or most common size or form of its kind:". What you wrote is probably accurate in loose terms, maybe the use of the term should be dropped as it is very misleading. I can't think of any other industry where the word is used that way. However, the bicycle industry seems to use a lot of terms that are not accurate. Another example is "cockpit". Bicycles do NOT have a cockpit, airplanes have them.

you can use auto-translate.

👍

It’s fine. It’s just a chunky bearing or adaptor to step down. I don’t think FSA make a direct 24mm version.