fantastic tip...I felt compelled to sign in in order to click a well deserved LIKE - because not many tips are so useful (and so often we need to fix frames near the edge). Great stuff.
Richard, sorry I disagree. While it is obvious when the mechanics of the situation are pointed out it is something I had never considered so for me it is a great tip.
@@michaellinahan7740 Hi Michael.. When saying minor detail, I meant it as something very few people would even consider to look for in that scenario , which makes it such a good tip..👍🏻
Perfect, going to be using some of these today and tomorrow for the first time... My only worry... There's a steel gas pipe right under the slab where regs have insisted I put fixings. I swear they are trying to kill me.
Great Tip. When you give these tips out is it possible to say what size fitting and where you sourced them from. I'm sure people earn money from doing that sort of thing. Thanks anyways
Great tip. Never really thought about it until now. Are those frame fixings good enough for fire door frames or are there special non plastic ones? Cheers.
Hi Paul. I wouldn't be able to say for certain if these would be acceptable for fixing fire door frames, but I've never seen a spec that says to use anything specific for this job.👍 Cheers.
@@thetallcarpenter Hi TT, thanks for reply. As the frames have to be sealed around with fire mastic I don't suppose it really matters. By the time the fire has burned through that or the frame, if you 'aint out the building you're already dead ☠.
@@thetallcarpenter Watched this last night, the kit comes with plastic fixings. I've got some fire doors & frames to fit for Wetherspoons & Premier Inns/Whitbread's, they stipulate no fire foam as used in this video, fire mastic only. Toolbox Talk: Installing Timber Fire Doorsets October 2018 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE--DFefse4CwA.html
Hi Harry🖐AllI would do is orient the fixing correctly if you are close to the edge of the wall👍(if you are well inside the edges, then the fixing should work wherever you place it) 😎 Cheers Del
Hi there🖐I'm unfamiliar with gauge diameters, but as long as the screw diameter is smaller that the hole for the plugs diameter, then it will be fine👍Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter Thanks for this. So, the shank diameter of the screw has to smaller than the diameter of hole drilled by the masonry bit for the wall plug or the diameter of the opening on the wall plug? What I mean is if it is ok to use a screw that is around 60mm in length and 4.8mm in shank diameter into a wall plug that is inserted into a 25mm hole that was drilled using a 6mm masonry bit into a brick wall to attach a 1800 mm timber paling that is 19mm in thickness. Initially I attached 6 screws from the timber paling into the brick wall (that is around 750mm in height) to fasten the timber paling with a 50mm screw that had a shank diameter around 4.2mm. However, when it is very windy some of the screws along with the 25mm wall plug come loose. So, I was wondering if removing the 50mm screw and replacing this with a 60mm screw would get me a more secure connection for the timber paling to the brick. Thanks for your input.
@punterjac8695 I would use 5x60 screws into red plugs, (these go into a 6mm hole), to fix 25mm battens to a wall👍That will be super secure and pull out any twists/bows on the timber💪
Great tip Sir. Is this a standard fisher hammer fixing? What size fixing do you use for 4 x 2 sawn timber. Your using cls there which is thinner but what ratio is there for fixings of screw in wood and screw is masonry. Thank you. Love the videos
Hi Lee. These are standard Fischer fixings, but not hammer in type. I would still be happy using 100mm long fixing for 2" timber straight into masonry. (ie. about 50mm of fixing in the masonry).👍 Glad you like the videos and thanks for watching them.😎
@@thetallcarpenter hi. Thanks for the quick reply and information. Funny, as I have driven around half of London today trying to get some 120mm hammer fixings. Excited to make and use your door lining jig next week. Could you give an idea of what size rough opening for doors? What gap to play with? Thank you
How much space to you account for with the dot and dab behind the plasterboard. Do you allow for 10mm or 12mm. This mans the stud will overtake the wall in your video by 10mm or 12mm subject to the dap depth you allow once the dabs are compressed.
Hi James. I always allow for a dot and dabbed wall, (with 12.5mm board), to be about 25mm. All the tacking is done first including ceilings and studwork, leaving the sticking of boards to the blockwork till last.😎 (as you suggest, the stud would be almost buried if the dot and dabbing was done first). Cheers.👍
@@thetallcarpenter if I have understood correctly, the stud sticks out 12.5mm from the block face. This then allows 12.5mm dab to block and 12.5mm plasterboard which makes 25mm?
@@jamesbrookes5614 The stud is 38mm thick. The thickness of adhesive is 12.5mm and the board is 12.5mm, (25mm total). If you were to stick the walls before tacking the studwork, there would be 13mm of the stud sticking out.👍
Spent all morning doing exactly the same thing- same fixings , same blocks but got through a whole packet and none of them gripped. Did everything you said including drill not impact driver. Why?????
Hi there🖐Sorry to hear you are not having success with your fixings😬and nothing obvious springs to mind🤔 I only use tge Fischer fixings where the sleeves only have one split in, are your fixing the same🤔Cheers Del
Thank you for the message. Not sure what the blocks I'm drilling into are called but they aren't concrete. I can drill the pilot hole with a wood drill bit. Breeze blocks- is that what they're called. Anyway I assume the the fixing is expanding as it should but it's eroding the block substrate and getting loose rather gripping. I've filled the hole with No More Nails before putting the fixing in and seems to be holding. If I was to do it again in those blocks I would use a drill bit 1mm smaller than recommended. I used 8 mm fixings and an 8 mm masonry bit which I would do in a concrete block but didn't seem to work in these blocks.
Hi John. What did you use to drill the hole through the timber?. Anything other than a 10mm wood bit, (spade or auger), will cause the nylon plug to bind in the timber.👍
@@johnbradley4881 Bingo John. The sds drill leaves a fairly dirty hole in the timber as it smashes the wood fibres rather than cutting them, and this is enough to make it almost impossible to hammer the plug through it. I always drill the timber first with a decent wood specific bit first and then the plug slips straight in.😵 Cheers.
I can confirm this is the case. Helping a mate yesterday and sidn't like one of my pre drilled (wood) hole positions once presented to the wall. So, left that fixing til last and re-did it with the SDS in situ. It went in but it put up a fight!
Hi Darren. I'm not a fan of concrete screws, but that's maybe because I'm not using them properly. I can never seem to get them to pull the timer really tight to the concrete/blockwork. They are definitely quicker and cheaper though.👍 Thanks for your comment mate.🤩
@Francis Marion Hi Francis. If there's moisture in the blockwork, I think the timber absorbing it would be the least of anyone's worries. These are dot and dabbed plasterboard straight onto the blockwork, so moisture soaking into that would be a disaster.😵. If I'm honest, its not something I'm aware of that causes a problem, but can see your point.👍 Cheers.
@Francis Marion Hi Francis. I really appreciate your comments and its really cool to learn about construction processes and the ways that certain problems are dealt with in different parts of the world. Here in the UK the whole floor structure is concrete over DPM. (Damp Proof Membrane). The internal and external block and brick skins, (walls), are built on a DPC, (damp proof course), to stop any rising damp, and are a certain distance above ground level. Damp penetration of the external brick skin is virtually non existent even when its exposed to perlonged driving rain, so we just don't get a problem with external moisture in the internal skin. Bizzarely, the most probable cause of moisture in the external skin is from humidity generated within the building from people just living in it!!. But again, this is virtually imeasurable. Thanks again for your comments.👍 Cheers.
