How strong is a single CoreFix fitting in a dot & dab wall? 

used these for absolutely everything in a 1999 house. TVs, mirrors, wall mount desks, wall mount cupboards etc. Even with the thermalite blocks everything has been absolutely rock solid. Would recommend massively. They're not cheap at just under £1 each but £4 for the security of knowing your TV will NEVER fall off is well worth it IMO.

Thank You, listened to this the other night, remembered I have a heavy shelf to hang on the dot & dab walls of the extension, ordered them & fitted tonight. They worked like a dream, there must be 50kg hanging of three of these fitting over a metre, and they are as solid as rock. .

These are great! Suspended an incredibly heavy "floating" unit on the wall - 4m wide and these beauties hold it as tight as you like! Not cheap but that unit is not going to fall down!

Hey Andy just wanted to say, I discovered your channel a couple of weeks ago and have been sort of trying to catch up on your output. I am thoroughly enjoying it - in fact it’s canny good man.😀

Wow thank you!!! I was looking for a solution to mount a 30kg radiator to a dot and dab wall without making large holes in the plasterboard. This is definitely the way!

You deserve more subscribers. The production values of your videos - and your content - is first rate.

Glad I found and watched this vid as you have just fixed the problem I have/had. Cheers. Subbed to your channel.

Thanks for advice works perfectly for our TV bracket jobs keep up good work and great advice Regards Flatpack guys

Ha that's incredible! Brilliant vid Andy, will be checking those out thanks for the info!

These look really good things to get for the tool box a great video thanks 😊

Brilliant, love your reviews

This made me go ah! I've been working on the basis of there being only 3 types of walls, masonry, dry wall/Gyproc/plasterboard/hollow and the dreaded lath and plaster (never found an ideal fixing for them).

Just used these to mount a corner work desk (office) to a dot dab with block behind, using 4 x 400mm heavy duty brackets... solid!

You're a braver man than I doing that ! My heart nearly stopped when you let it go. Was amased when replacing my TV how light the new one was compared to the old. Thanks for the explanation on dot & dab... amazing how different construction methods are around the world. I think we overcomplicate things here in the States.

Brilliant video well impressed with the fixing.

These are great! FYI the 100kg refers to when 4 are used together and when testing they have managed up to 250kg.

just grabbed some of these from Screwfix....brilliant!

Had to laugh to myself (well i am here on my own) when you said its not a sponsored video and you got one of their T Shirts on with their name splashed all over the front of it lol - great demo though !

Great video, many thanks.

Just about to fix a 65" Samsung lcd TV up with EIGHT corefix screws do should be well good. Mind you it's on a bracket designed to swing away from the wall about 8 inches, but I'm reassured by the vid. Ta muchly mate!!

Great video from a fellow Geordie. Your house looks like a Persimmon new build, hope you haven’t had all the problems I’ve had with my new build 🏡😱

Great content. I think I need a different solution for 2 reasons. Although my TV is only 16.5 KG the bracket allows the TV to come out from the wall 40cm which I imagine creates a LOT more force. Even worse the concrete blocks are quite soft and also hollow. One of my corewfix screws carried on turning when it reached the bracket hole :(

Hi. Great video as always. Any chance of doing a video on how to remove these is no longer needed, so they holes can be repaired?

Great vid - very useful. Just moved into new build and looking at heavy duty fixings such as this. The research I have done suggests these COREFIX red or blue fixings work well but I haven' t seen a good vid of someone using them in a real life situation. thank you. On your pull out test I wanted to check if this representative (not criticising you here). I thought the metal sleeve needed to be inserted for 2 reasons. 1:- it offers a solid extension from the block to the o/s edge of the plaster board and 2:- when the screw is tightened with the sleeve in place it forces the fixing to only expand / lock in the block at the end where the sleeve doesn't reach and by doing so may actually offer more resistance to pull out than your test showed. Any thoughts?

Cool! I'm just about to move into a new build with 'dry lined' walls, I saw it before painting and yes looked like dry board and then was taped at the joins.... so these would be a good fixing?!

I’ve bought both length options and used them on a couple of jobs now. I find however careful I am the tops pop off the plastic plug when I’m tapping the metal tube in. Don’t think they are nearly tough enough for hammering in the tube when it’s Into tough block.

Nice T shirt. Sponsored by any chance? Haha. Nice test. Keep em coming. Loving these tests

Real good video.

I've used Rigifix in the past to hang a 12u comms cabinet full of network gear on dot and dab and its not budged a bit. Unfortunately the outer-facing walls of my house are 50mm insulated plaster board so i have a much wider gap to bridge, any suggestions for that situation besides cutting a hole in the wall and popping some wood in to fill the void?

Just out of interest rather than wall bolt anchors like you have used for the tv can you use thunderbolts/contrete bolts straight thru the dot dab into the thermalite block and it works as well?

This video explains why my 2008 construction house doesn't have studs in the only ajoining walland why random parts sound more dense. I bought a stud detector to find them but couldn't - I'm thinking this is why.

Hi Andy, I have recently tried hanging some shelves at my son's flat (attaching to an exterior wall) that was built in the last 2 years. I thought it would be standard dot and dba, only to find that there was a 100mm 'void' to the blockwork. The void appears to be filled with a semi-solid material which feels like a semi-set dry paste and I am assuming is a thermal barrier. Do you have any experience of this kind of structure? Thanks 😊

This isn't a sponsored video as I stand here in my Corefix shirt !!

We have been renovating a house and on removing floor to ceiling 70's tiles in the kitchen took most of the plaster with them! We took wall back to brick and dot and dabbed plasterboard. Currently trying to hang kitchen wall cabinets and having no luck. These look exactly what we may be looking for, would you recommend for this, bearing in mind one of the cabinets is a 1000mm and a couple of the 500 ones will be housing a microwave?

What about those brass coloured long screws that my builder says screws straight into the wall (through plasterboard) without plugs and used them to fit my kitchen wall units?

Why do you drill the tv bracket hole twice ? Thinking of using these thanks

Awesome video. Rigifix brought me here.

I am planning on using 6of these to mount a heavy punch bag bracket. I am going to use a 35 kg bag , do you think that should be okay?

Love the DSLR 👍😄

I don't think it was a fair representation. The top of the plug will sit on the edge of the plasterboard so the screw will never go as deep as you went. The plasterboard is also important to consider in loading as you're more interested in sheer forces when hanging on a wall.

I am using a pack of six of these to fit a tv bracket this week. Sadly my internal wall.is this softer internal thermalite brick. Any advice on drilling into them as I hear they are easy to oversize the holes and therefore not get the right strength? They say 4 give 73kgs of weight carrying and tv with bracket is only 24-25kgs.

Do you have a video of how you traced the wires through the wall 👍

Andy, just going through some of your older videos. Not sure if this is common in Australia, possibly in town houses/units etc. Have to wonder, where is the damp barrier and is there any insulation, or is this only used on adjoining walls?

Good video, thanks. Have any of you viewers/commenters used these fixings to install a shotgun safe on a dot & dab wall? I believe the inspection by the police involves the FEO trying their best to pull the cabinet off the wall and I’m curious if there are up to the job? Thanks.

You mention two types of inner brick wall, which are both softer than brick. Would four of these fixings be strong enough in either brick to support a 22kg tv? Is 120mm better than the 100mm?

I'm putting up some black metal brackets and don't really want chrome countersunk screw heads popping out from the bracket surface. What's the best route here? Can you use a different wood screw (same length, width) with these fixings? Its hard to find 5 x 100mm round headed black screws. Other options? Put a little black cap on each screw head? (i only have 8mm diameter of space on the bracket for that). Or - get cheaper 5 x 100mm chrome screws with round heads and paint them black?

What would you suggest for fitting tvs to plaster board walls in new builds with the metal stud wall systems? The duopower fischer plugs look like the answer. Your thoughts? Thanks

How do the compare to Rigifix though? I have used both and Rigifix is what I carry - they jet make me feel much more confident

I suppose the fact that you don't use base coat when plastering boards, means it's dry, so maybe that's why some refer to dot and dab as dry-lining. I can't think why else they would.

Nice video! - How are the power socket cables fed in dot & dab? Vertical? I want to mount my TV on the wall on a new build.

Interesting evaluation of this product. I wouldn't trust one screw if there are young children around and the load is quite heavy. The inquisitive person I am wonders if it would make any noticeable difference between a hole drilled with wood drill and masonry drill bit, in breeze block.

Would these hold a 40inch tv on a cantilever bracket?

i need to wall hang a sink on aac block, do you recon these are the best bet?

70 kg traction. Then hang the TV and you realize that you apply shear to the screw ... and hope not to cut it off. The traction value is usable if you put one even below (on which you can rotate the plate towards you). Anyway, good job!

Are you allowed to just run a cable behind plasterboard, without it being in a conduit or behind some other kind of protection from being drilled into?

"This isn't a sponsored video by the way" says he wearing a Mettex Corefix emblazoned t-shirt :-) That said, it is a very good product (and I never got the t-shirt! :-)

theres no plasterboard in this test or the gap from plasterboard to the block. is there a video of a real scenario pull test with dot a dab set up?

Have used Dryline Pro previously, will give these a go for my next installation. I like a tight fit, would they work with an 8mm hole lad. Cheers in advance.

Hi dry line is where the longer edges of the boards are tapered & jointing paste with a paper tape is used to "fill" the tapered joints lots of sanding of joints to produce flat surface method generally used on commercial sites boards fixed to metal stud work Dot & Dab usually domestic setting normal boards or sometimes tapered joints overlaid with jointing mesh tape then wet plaster! Good videos your TV on wall was the wall a soft block?? I fit TV brackets and I hate Thermolite blocks!!

At the end of the day, it's not all about the type of fixing you use to fix things to dot and dab walls. It's what you are fixing through, so in your case you are spreading the load/pull force over a large area. If you had one of the new vertical radiators on dot and dab even these might not work, as there is no way to spread the force needed to hold the weight of the radiator, as the brackets apply to much leverage to the plasterboard in a very small area. On the other hand if they used the same brackets as normal panel radiators you would not need to use corefix fixings. The reason I know this, is that I have not long, had to install three of the new tall radiators on to dot and dab walls, and although I got a good fixing, as soon as we, (and I say we as it took two of us to lift them) tried to hang them on the stupid brackets, that come with them, the brackets just crushed into the plasterboard. In the end we fixed two lengths of 2 x 1 par, painted to match the wall, and hung them on that.

These look great but can't find them in likes of screwfix. Would a longer version of a normal plug work the same? Iv got the thick grey plugs which are about 10mm diameter and about 50-60mm length. So I'm thinking these should pass through the plasterboard and into the block? Thanks again

i don't understand what's the sense for the first test...the whole idea with corefix is to provide a solid fitting when you have a void gap, like in the case of dot&dab plasterboard

Hi, i have anew build and need to hang a new TV ( sony ZG9 ) that weighs 76KG onto a dot and dab with thermalite blocks behind, would this work? i have a 600mm braket on there at present with 6 corefix heavy duty anchors on, current TV is 36KG and is fine, but obviously i need to be sure it wont fall off - if not these, what would you reccommend please? great videos by the way

I have Thermalite walls, but plastered over as opposed to dot and dab. Would these fixings still be suitable for hanging a TV on without the plasterboard? If not, do you reccomend any suitiable fixings for Thermalite blocks?

I really liked your dust tray how can i make this or buy ?

These in theory should work with a pull up bar ? I'm thinking to use a piece of timber to go over the plaster board (dot &dab) and then fix the pull up bar over that. Any comments would be appreciated

4 snap toggle bolts holding up 60lbs + of tv and wallmount on drywall/metal studding what you guys think?

I've just bought some of these, can you tell me what size washer you used for the testing? I'm guessing M5 as the screw supplied are 5mm? The TV bracket I have doesn't have standard screw holes so I need to use washers as well.

I might have worn glasses doing that test 😂. And I might have avoided leaning right in to read the meter 😣.

I am no plasterer but I would have thought that a dry lined wall refers to the fact that dry plaster board is used instead of undercoat then finish coat plaster directly on the brickwork which was the norm in the past.

Will the tv hold up with one red wall plug?

Can i get these in usa i could use this ?

"This isn't a sponsored video"... So you plugged their er, plugs and all you got was that lousy tee-shirt? :-) It is impressive performance into low density block though. What's the crack with the "shield" liners? is that to transfer the shear force from the plasterboard to the blockwork? How deep do they go into the block?

you'd want two on that tv if for levelling it than nothing else.

My house is DnD construction. I've been using these corefix for years now my wash basins in cloakroom, en-suites and master bathroom are all 38kg a piece and hung using sinkfix wall plates with 15 corefix screws per plate yeah I have a few screws in my walls....😆 I do have to say I'd think the walls will fall before the wash basins come loose. I'd highly, no, I'd strongly urge anyone in a DnD constructed build to use the corefix system worth every £0.84 per plug/screw price tag (24 per box x 0.84p each = £20.16 ... per box of 24 fixings). One important thing I would point out though, not all walls are block lined on the internal walls especially. If your internal walls are less than say 120 -130mm wide (measured at a door opening and then deduct door frame protrusion beyond the wall surface) then the chances are that your internal walls are stud framed and NOT DnD. That said you can be pretty certain that your external walls will be DnD onto blocks. Internal walls above 150mm will more than likely be block with DnD. To confirm if stud framed or block get a rare earth magnet (neodymium) and find a solid sounding area of wall and slowly and lightly pass the neodymium magnet over the wall. If it does not jump from your hand its a block wall, if it jumps and sticks its a stud framed wall with nail or screw fixings. Test over a wide area usually 16 inches either side of a nail or screw detection. If you find another within a few millis (20-30) then you have confirmed its a stud framed wall. Trace up the wall from a discovered screw/nail to your desired height and mount what needs fixing to the stud or noggin. Hope this helps someone P.s. Google neodymium magnets to buy one as a simple fridge magnet wont cut the mustard.

I see the corefix is only rated for 10mm thick brackets. What if your item to be attached is over 10mm. Like a wooden coat rack for example.

Zip lock wall anchors will crush these. Holds around 100 lbs more (around 40 kilos) assuming your plaster board is as strong as what is standard in America. (130 cm thickness). They list the standard as 1/4 of max as accepted weight but per use with handicapped devices like fall prevention hand holds etc. 1/3 is up to code.

These are very expensive compared to the Dryline Pro fixings when used in larger numbers, but still give reliable results.

dry lining refers to sticking plasterboard to bock work or tacking it to stud work

Dry lining in ma opinion is just gypie rather than lathe n plaster or plastering blockwork

I think its called drylining cause they are lining the walls with drywall sheets. in NZ i remenber it being called gib lining cause we call them gibboard i think gib is the brand of plasterboard, then a taper and jointer plasters the joints then its good to paint after sanding the joints. Its only in the UK where you skim a perfectly good wall with multifinish, never seen multifinish before in my life until i came to the UK.

Did they give you tshirt as well lol

Not sponsored? What about the t-shirt your wearing?

How does this compare to Rigifix?

lol like good fixings particularly the steel core. The competitor does not have that.

Have you tried rigifix drywall anchors?

How come you have a corefix t shirt on? If you are not sponsored???

dry lining just meaning plaster board and skim rather than rend and skim

Thanks for video but you are from the Corefix yourself so you would give the demo which may be bit bias surely. Your t shirt says it all.

"This isn't a sponsored video..." - he says after 15 minutes of demoing how good they are and wearing the branded t-shirt. LOL! Expect a free supply for a year :-)

Dot and Dab is a pain in the ass when your wanting to add Spurs and fused spurs to a ring main. For some reason whoever puts the Dot And Dab on always puts masses of the stuff right where the sockets are and new sockets are going. Bloody annoying as hell.

I wish dot and dab method was banned, cursed and kittens sacrificed even for thinking about it.

You're not really testing it correctly as the core part is missing

god I hate dot and dab.

Not a sonsored video yeah right, corefix plastered all over his shirt

I don't understand people who buy new build houses. If the interior walls aren't brick, walk away