not a lot of channels doing this much detailed work and a limited budget. The 1965 beetle was over a year of hard work and it's looking pretty sweet for a patina restoration. Did you watch or comment on any of the beetle series?
@@CTmoog maybe your budget is limited because you buy and start too many projects buy parts for them and never finish one. Why not start a project and put your money into that one and concentrate on finishing it? What happened to the swamp dragon? You took it all apart and put epoxy primer on the cab and that was it. You said you were going to get the engine rebuilt and never heard anything else and it was off to the next unfinished project
All you need now is to wipe it down and put Eastwood rust encapsulator on it and top coat with chassis black. I did that with my F-100 in 2017 and it still looks great. Good luck 👍
When you remove brake cables, try sliding a 12 point wrench over the retaining fingers. This will allow you to just pull cables out of frame, backing plates or whatever cables are installed in.
@CT ,the aftermarket transmission mount , what I would do is fill in the holes and drill your own holes. I had an issue with a aftermarket wheel well liner for my 2010 Nissan Versa. Some of the mounting holes were slightly off. But there were enough holes in the right spot to mount it so it won't fall off.
@@CTmoog What I recommend... is to refurbish and use all the original parts that you can! You won't blow cash buying new parts and you also know the original parts actually fit and work as intended. By the way, another recommendation: STOP CUTTING ALL THE BRAKE AND FUEL LINES OFF! Remove them intact!! Why? Because when you go to replace them, you have the originals to act as a model for new lines that you buy or the ones you will make yourself. All you'll need to do is make sure the pre-fabbed units match up or that your hand made parts match up. In other words, save the original pieces to act as your example. Do this even with the soft lines. The reality is that while new parts will most likely be OK, they often are NOT OK. If you keep your originals intact, there will be no doubt as to what will work as a replacement and what won't. Best wishes! - Max Giganteum
When you reassemble rear brakes, you need to pack the bearings with wheel bearing grease and smear some grease on the lip or the new bearing seals to prevent them from burning and causing them to leak. Remember, most all factory seals come with grease on them, aftermarket come dry. After driving vehicle for awhile, gear lube works it’s way into the wheel bearings. But it won’t just flow into them from filling up the diff. I’ve been watching you for awhile and you have come along way since you started.
Actually, no, you do not use grease on them. The differential oil is what lubricates them. When the oil level is correct, it comes down the axle tube and hits the bearings. Also he has a limited slip differential, and he's got to use limited slip specific oil, and any other lube, such as grease, that gets in there will ruin the clutches in the differential
Omg CT I gotta stop looking at the comments. In my opinion you gotta do your thing….I think people watch your channel because of who you are ….not what you work on. But they don’t understand that. Who would care if it’s an old VW or an old Ford? CT is an artist……!
Great job! Curious, did you bail on the Porsche? Did you sell the VW? And what happened to the Karman Ghia? I’m like you, collect projects…hoping to see you get one on the road as a daily driver!
that axle is set up kinda like its Class 8 brothers. the wedges that FORD uses are split and if you use a standard screwdriver to spread them a little they will slide on and off real easy. Just an FYI
Hi CT. I saw some days ago on a video, PB Blaster have a gel, smear it on rust, let it sit for some time, pressure wash it off, and you have bare steel back.
