To the ones discrediting this guys attempt: where’s your video of freehand milling? I appreciate the efforts. Let me add, you can purchase a ripping chain for this process(smoother finish but not neccessary). And don’t forget to keep your chain sharp if attempting. I recommend giving it a once over after every one or two board cuts.
Nice, tip: I leave like an inch or so without cutting the log all the way through so won’t move as much, I also level slightly the bar in my first cut, it helps withe the straight line, if you end up with a rough board you can finish it with a planer. Grate work, nice vid!
Debark your log and use a chalk line. If it's green wood, it will stick and not blow away. You may want to spritz the wood before chalking if it's aged. This method works really well if you have an electric saw...
Nice job. You should consider a couple of things for saw performance. I almost always carry wedges in my pockets, varying thicknesses and angles just to help rid of shavings and clogging the bar track. Also make sure to run your saw "dry" for 30 seconds or so when you've finished. SInce the saw has been running at long intervals, things get a little hotter than normal. Also (if properly lubed) the bar will cool down while its getting fresh lube without all the friction and dust. Keep doing the updates!
Am very impressed with the skill You have developed in cutting planks with Your chainsaw without any jig! Absolutely Amazing! You've inspired Me to do the same. Started operating a chainsaw at 9 years of age....that's over 50 years ago!
Try using a green laser used for vertical surfaces that projects a plane surface. Make sure the laser also projects onto the saw's bar. Angle the saw's bar just as you do, and watch the laser's beam on the top of your bar as you move down the log. The beam should project into the kerf so you can easily keep the bar on the desired plane of cut. Should work as well or better - no nails, no string.
@@stevenschofding1308 I use a stringline for a wide variety of things and you make a good point. However, if you also have use for a 3-plane green laser like many DIYers do, I'd give it a try.
@@stevenschofding1308 According to advoko makes, Alaskan mills or other additions to chainsaw decrease the energy efficiency dramatically. I haven't tried a comparison myself but his theory backing it up seems legit. I must say the laser idea seems too rigorous to me and I wonder whether the laser light on a rotating chain is not too invisible to be practical?
To clarify, in my view the goals of speed, energy efficiency and dimensional rigor have to be carefully weighed against each other in this art and I imagine this laser method will emphasize rigor too much at the expense of speed and energy efficiency. But yeah, love to be proven wrong ;)
Advoko makes out of Russia does it really clean as well. Never seen him use a string though. Just the natural swing of your arm. Im sure his leg placement played a part as well. Cool vid though thank you for posting.
nah...Advoko MAKES uses a guide string; he references it very slightly, I have a log and my 026 fueled up and ready to go... currently raining here so I will wait for dry weather to slab it out... Thanks for Video.
Advoko did instruct to use a flashy-colored string. The big difference between his and this instruction video is that he trusts gravity and uses a swinging motion. Using that instruction I was able to make nice beams, but I still have to try slabs of limited width.
I have done this, hot glued a level on a chain saw. I had to cut from two sides as the bar did not reach through. Got chain marks on the boards but after finishing them with a wood cutting disc in an angle grinder they were good enough for a rustic garden table.
Hmm, interesting. One variation I saw that made a lot of sense was the guy lined up a laser that is used for plumb and level. He used the plumb line to make his cuts. Your method appears to be much flatter than his boards. Maybe a combination of the two. Me, I mostly make bowls so I do need good straight lines. I have found out that if I rock the saw, then I get way more bumps and humps.
Great idea and video explanation. I'm interested in making a flat top on downed trees along a bike trail. THIS would save me from buying and hauling in a mill.
I was doing this cause I needed 20+ft boards and I had cut some of the ugliest planks I had ever seen but they did they’re job so I can’t complain too much. That level I’m sure would’ve saved me a ton of time
I really like the level idea. Seen quite a few of these freehand cutting vids and this is the first one I've seen the level utilized, nice work. Also, how tall are you? lol. That saw and 18" bar look massive in your hands. I was really pleasantly surprised when you said it was 18" because that's the length of my bar. Most of these other vids use much longer bars, I was worried mine wouldn't be large enough to make this work.
You should mount the level on the forward part of the saw. As the rubber mounts wear, the handle flexes and will not show level as you push/pull. Nice to see thus works as well as it does, be cautious of the bar nose rising up toward your face as you push forward on the saw.
I cut all my slabs freehand - mainly as I can't be bothered mucking about with a mill. I also bin off lines, straight edges, guides and all that malarkey - I cut by eye & any drifting/deviation/cock-ups or boo-boos get classed as "Oh well.. that's a bit more character in that one anyway.." There are only happy accidents. If you want perfectly flat, perfectly level timber - pop across to B & Q or the Homeless Despot & buy some Yawn-Wood. Make your thing out of that. It will be as boring as every other perfectly flat, perfectly square Yawn-Yoke everyone else makes better than you do. I grab the saw - the same saw as you're using, coincidentally, and start cutting slabs - not hugely caring what thickness they are, if there's deviations, if it's straight - just cutting out a slab. God invented other tools for smoothing out the "flaws" into flowing lines. Flowing lines are a lot more interesting than Yawn-Wood. Today I slabbed an 8' length of Irish white birch - the results were several slabs that vary from 2" ish to 4" ish - and the grain & figure are unreal. I defy anyone to look at the woods figure & yawn - you could chuck the untouched slabs onto 2 beer kegs, call it a table & people would still stand and look at them, because wood - most wood - is naturally beautiful if you don't frot it to within an inch of its life. It's tactile - so stop smoothing it to look like plastic. If people wanted plastic, they'd go buy some - leave wood look like wood.
The downside I see to this technique is potentially a lot of tip wear and a lot of revving your saw which might wear it out faster. I've seen a few vids from advoko makes and he was using a stihl 260 and burnt it up twice. I wasn't sure if maybe it was the 14k rev speed on the saw which don't seem to last as long or that using it that way wears it out faster (or both). How's your Shindaiwa holding up? Those are similar to echos aren't they? Nice boards in the end though. Those hardwoods are so much stronger than pine it's silly.
Shindaiwa is now made by Echo. They make good small engines, IMO. As far as saw life in general, it definitely adds a lot of hours to the saw. That said, bars last quite a while and are relatively cheap to replace, and a sharp chain on a 60cc saw has no trouble milling. Milling is generally with the grain of the wood, so I can run 50-75% power with good results. Crosscuts are more difficult because you’re cutting into the grain.
I also learned this from avoko makes. He said this technique uses less gas, so I understood that to mean low rpm. That works well for me as I have built a lot of stuff lately. It does add a lot of hours to the saw, but I haven't broken anything yet.
Sick of the chainsaw advice yet? Guys who watch chainsaw videos must be the biggest bunch of know-it-alls on the internet. The irony is that we're here to learn by watching YOUR method. I'm walking away with the idea to attach a level to my chainsaw, so thank you!
Thanks to PG&E. We have whole trees just cut down and left some 60ft long. Can't move, can't get in to cut, and blocks entrance door , driveway, and yard. Maybe can be plane'd horizontally along the top?
It could be planed horizontally with an Alaskan sawmill. The downsides of that is that it takes longer, is pretty uncomfortable, and requires the milling attachment.
I tried this but as soon as pressed the trigger on the saw, the vibration shook the bubble in the level into a thousand tiny bubbles. Not sure what I did wrong.
I've hear of that brand chainsaw. What is your experience with husqvarna and stihl, if any. Which would you rather have or use? Thanks. Great job at ripping!
I believe it was the one below. You may find that it’s better to drain the liquid and replace it with a thicker liquid. I haven’t, but I’m thinking about doing it to reduce the bubbles that form at times. a.co/d/97To15X
OK not to think I'm knocking on your video because I'm not. I think it's great that you showed you can make lumber without a milling jig and just use a string and level. However I think faster production would be an Alaskan mill or faster yet a gas powered band saw mill. But it all depends on a guy's wallet and what he's looking to do. Thanks for sharing
You’d probably need a cordless circular saw with a guide to have a chance at it. But logs are not smooth or straight, the circular saw has a narrower kerf than a chainsaw, and there may be no benefit for the time it takes. I’ve found using a string or chalk line to be pretty effective. Some commenters did not have luck with a bubble level because of their saws’ vibrations. If that’s the case, the liquid in the level could be replaced with a light oil to prevent bubbles.
www.dewalt.com/products/power-tools/saws/circular-saws/20v-max-612-in-brushless-cordless-circular-saw-kit/dcs565p1 It’s a bit weaker than I’d like but handy since it’s cordless.
@@carolinamountainliving7501 Stihl Motomix? The special ethanol free chainsaw gas? Last time I checked it was $30 I think you mean normal ethanol free gas.
It’s just a standard chain, and the finish was very good. But I should say that it wasn’t as sharp as it was when new. A new chain or one that is very sharp will not give the same results. A ripping chain may be a better option.
Take note people...he starts the chainsaw correctly. That wide ledge near the trigger, notice it is wider on the right, is there to put your right foot on and start it with your left arm. The best and safest way to start a chainsaw. Watch how he does it in the video at 2:50. Now the worst bit is laying out the string....just use a chalk line and snap a blue chalk line on the log. NO string to cut by accident. Other than that great video....oh and for Gods sake buy a 'Stihl' brand chainsaw....not Chinese crap copies of one.
This method is faster and less backbreaking than using an Alaskan sawmill. I’m not selling the boards, just working on smaller projects. A band sawmill would definitely be better for mass production.
Still using my mill, 4 screws into a ladder is all it takes me to set up. Don't have to worry about watching a level or anything - I have a huge amount of respect for the skill required to freehand usable boards that way though!
I think I'd rather learn this technique than spending money and time on devices. Your method looks very learnable. I'll start practicing on firewood. Thanks for the video.
This is way easier said then done. This guy makes it looks easy. Depends how nice you need the wood to look like though. If it needs to be flat and smooth might need a plainer of some sort. I tried this on many logs before i just bought the vevor chainsaw mill. It was on sale for 70 bucks on Amazon. Its solid.
Nice! I have a question. What kind of chain are you using? I was expecting to see noodles. When I mill freehand I get nice long noodles. I use a 10 degree ripping chain. Very, very nice job! those slabs look great!
It was a standard ~25 degree chain. I do get long noodles with a new or freshly sharpened chain. This chain being a touch on the dull side gave a very nice finish. Chains have to be sharp for cross cuts, but it’s not as important when going with the gain (milling).
very good idea to install a level on the saw. I am very intrigued by this method after watching Advoko Makes video on this. He does not use a level. Still, I think it a good idea instead of relying on muscle memory and gravity
@@ebutuoyebutouy Look at the wood, you will see it is dirt stained. Especially visible on on the corner of 1 piece. And you don't normally see dirt flying unless you are really bad.
can't tell if you are, but try to keeps as few teeth as possible in contact...lowers the load considerably and cuts much faster because the saw can stay in it's powerband with higher rpm
Even if there are some "marks" (or noodles as you seem to call this), it's possible and kind of compulsory anyway to sand it to make a nice finish! I intend to use this method to make shelves, have been wanting to do it for a long time, this looks like a pretty "easy" method!
@@carolinamountainliving7501 mite give this a try this wkend. Need to sharpen my teeth but that's easy. Shouldn't have any troubles with my MS 391 with a 25" bar.
I'm also practicing this free-hand art. Until now I followed Advoko makes' freehand method, which trusts on gravity and a swinging motion in stead of a watermark. Admittedly I've only been making beams until now (not slabs). The experience I can share is that you should certainly consider using an electric saw (battery saw) for this job: drawing the initial line with a gas saw will waste a lot of fuel / energy for almost nothing. Careful: my own stihl battery saw initially had a bar with a way too small width so that it was way to flexible / elastic and its chain also had insufficient width. Don't get discouraged about battery saws if this is your initial experience. Rather upgrade the bar and the chain and then there's no inferiority in performance. Of course, my experience comes from a mindset for a concern over energy-efficiency and getting this job optimized in that metric. If you have to venture far into the wild and want to do a lot of work in one stroke, the energy density of batteries is no match against that of a jerrycan of gas.
I'm confused. If the string is the guide, and the cut is going to follow straight down from there, what role does the level play? You're locked into your path based on the string.
The string only helps ensure one side of the board is straight. If your saw’s bar is not held at the same angle throughout the cut, the other side of the board could be various thicknesses. Using your eyes as the gauge instead of a level or plumb line will result in inconsistent thicknesses throughout the board.
so...i tried the level...sounded good in theory....but because the saw shakes so violently its impossible to read ..... unless you stop shut saw off....so putting the level on your saw is totally pointless....waste a time...thanks
You see the bubbles pretty clearly in the video, so it’s legit. I made some great boards just two days ago with the level. Maybe your saw is the difference. A solution would be to drill a small hole, drain the liquid, then refill it with an oil or something thicker than water.
I initially tried doing freehand cuts without a level, but I couldn’t keep the bar straight enough, so the boards were different thickness at each corner. Using the level allowed me to make each board the same thickness throughout.
A chainsaw’s bar kerf is much thicker than a sawmill’s, so a lot of wood is wasted if 1” thick boards are cut. Also, I need thick boards for my projects - benches, tv stand, etc.
You’ll have to take my word for it, but the thickness was quite even on both sides and at each corner. Put it this way, I made a tv stand with those boards and didn’t need a planer. My second video shows the thickness a bit better. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-LtN8V_84r-0.html
"bubble level" Thats the problem I have with this technique. If you plumb bob from your top lines down the front face of the log and mark 1 additional guide line. I'd think you could start from the front of the log, using both lines as a guide and make a diagonal cut into that corner that would help guide the bar down this cut started at 4:11 instead of trying to freehand plumb and cut this starting cut.
@@saltymarine I'm out of logs. Theres only one spot to dangle a plumb bob. Thats the cut face you get when you chop down the tree. The round cut face. Dangle the plumb bob there where you want to start the cut. On that face and mark where the plumb bob sits with a vertical line. If your chain saw tracks that line, your boards will come out with an even thickness on their width. Now look at the cut at 3:20 in the video.Hes tracking a line. He has one line. I am describing the other in detail. These two lines intersect in the corner. You can start your cut in that corner and use both the string(he has) and this plumb bob line for reference. The cut he is making determines the width of the board. But if the chainsaws bar sinks into the log at any angle but straight it will wander in either direction throughout the cut. Making it different widths along the width of the board. So lets say. 2 inches thick where you start the cut at the top tree bark at 3:20 and 3 inches thick on the bottom bark. If the bars angle goes in wrong. But it doesn't take much of the bar to go in before the two sides of the log pinch the chainsaw bar and thats the vertical line the bar will now track So you start your cut in the corner while referencing both lines and Your bar is now tracking angle while you're laying out this board width reference line being cut at 3:20 otherwise you're focusing on both the width of the cut and your bars angle since the bar is not being pinched until it is plunged a little....Now once you get to the bottom and the cut starts spreading and its no longer really guiding the bar and you hit a knot it can stop tracking angle and you will get a bad width there.
@@saltymarine Also my ground is not level and my logs roll around. So I suggest driving a stake against that round log face and pinning through the stake and into the log face with at least two nails to secure the log. Since this other face. The face his legs are by at 3:20(thats the board face) If the log rolls slightly, it throws off this cuts by angle. So pin it. then take your first face cut off the log and check it with a bubble level pressed against that face cut. To make sure that cut is plumb from sky to ground. Now you can either roll the log until its level or roll the log over and use that face cut as a foot so its sitting on the flat surface you just cut. If youre off one way or another on a board. Its salvageable if the cut is made by too much. so you want 2 inch stock and its 3 inches somewhere. You feed it through a thickness planer(dont reach inside to clear sawdust while its running), handheld electric planer or a hand plane. RU-vid makes this stuff look easy but its not. The devils are in the details. But nobody wants to listen to someone ramble on about stuff and piece all those words together. Back in my day we used to have books.
Sweet baby Jesus. No offense, but I coulda built a log cabin, raised a family and rocked my grandkids on the front stoop by the time you cut one board. Lets start a gofundme to get this guy a rip chain. That being said, I’m gonna try this.
So how do read a bubble level while the saw is running? Too much vibration... I call B.S. There would be hundreds of small bubbles oscillating at different rates.
Sometimes the bubbles do break apart, but they stay together most of the time. It may not work for every saw or level, but it works pretty well with my setup. Here’s a video that shows the bubble while making the cuts: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-LtN8V_84r-0.html
RE: 1:30 Those boards are not "perfectly level". They are not "level" at all. Your cuts are also not "level". By following the bubble level mounted on your saw, you are attempting to make plumb cuts (NOT level cuts). Additionally, the end goal with which you are working towards is to cut two surfaces that are parallel with each other (effectively, two planar parallel surfaces on one piece of wood where "level" has no relative meaning). I comment only in effort to help correct the use of terminology, as this type of incorrect terminology usage will be parroted by others disparaging effective communication on the subject.
I’d wager most understood “perfectly level” as being level relative to a flat surface. Yes, the cuts are technically plumb cuts, but they produce boards that are level when placed on a flat/level surface. If I make another video, I’ll be more mindful of terminology.
