Oil Priming; your screen shot, in no way, shape or form demonstrates that "all manufacturers require in their service manual when replacing an engine". You've made a claim, and then done absolutely nothing to back it up. But thank you for quoting on screen what I wrote. At least some people will see it and know the truth. According to you since my car sits all week, I must have destroyed the engine several times now.
+1 for the oil prime procedure. On older engines you can kinda skip it because it's fairly inconsequential, but on a modern BMW engine with tight clearances, the oil prime procedure is an absolute requirement. I've seen far too many BMW engines seize or spin rod bearings after a technician neglected to do the oil prime procedure, even after something as simple as an oil pan gasket replacement.
Very good video. When reinstalling the torque converter, it's best to stand the gearbox on its end and carefully lower the TC in. Give it a spin and you'll feel/hear it clunk into the oil pump lugs.
Thank you! Doing a rebuild before the engine (inevitably) fails is a good move. Once it goes, finding a new crank or getting it machined costs a lot more. Freshen it up now and you'll get lots more use out of it. how many KM are you at now?
After I brought it back in, did a quick visual inspection and as I thought, there was just a hose not fully seated, one of the evap lines under the airbox. Clicked it in and problem solved!
Detailed and thorough, i love it. Your welding looks just fine, and i very much like the oil priming sequence 👍 ISTA on a Mac? Does one still need Windows on a Mac to run ISTA? Thanks.
Thank you! Yes you still need Windows to run ISTA. You can either use bootcamp if you have an Intel Mac, or in my case, I'm using it through Parallels VM since I have an Apple silicon Mac.
Thanks James! It will be for now, but my next project is going to be a lot more interesting! I would say calling it an upgrade is debatable, yes the interior looks great and having a freshly rebuilt engine is nice, but it's still a buzzy 4 cylinder N20 vs the buttery smooth straight 6 N52. I mostly decided to keep it knowing that it's mostly new and I won't have to touch it for a long time (hopefully).
@@bimmer.doctorhaha. Yes this is all very true. That N20 is very loud and clattery/clicky similar to the N63. The N52 smoothness and reliability is undeniable. Can’t wait to see what’s next
Thanks! I'm a bit behind in my uploads... I ended up doing it, new windshield looks great, but it was a lot harder than I thought. Makes for a cool video for sure, there will definitely be one coming on that.
Great video! Could you by any chance tell more about what procedures need to be done in ISTA after such job? You mentioned resetting the adaptations, but what kind of other things should be done aswell that you did not say?
Thank you! I actually recorded it all but it makes for a very boring video just using ISTA for 20 minutes. I ended up doing the following. -Clear all fault memory to see which came back -Reset engine adaptations -Reset transmission adaptations -Valvetronic position learn -Transfer case oil wear reset
Hey Bimmer Doctor. Thank for the informative detailed videos. I’ve completed a rebuild for a 2013 BMW X1 with the N20 by watching your videos. I pulled the engine from the car without the transmission. The torque converter was pulled forward as I was lifting the engine out. So I haven’t been able to get the torque converter to go all the way back in. I’ve been working on the install for over a week now and can’t get the torque converter to line up. Do you have any suggestions or tricks of the trade that may help? Thank you again for sharing your time and knowledge with the world.
Happy to hear it helped you! As for the torque converter, it's always tricky. I cut it in the video but it took a good bit of wiggling around to get it in the right spot. Take it out and check to make sure you haven't damaged the splines trying to get it in. Also try and follow the same way I do in the video, grab it by the end and wiggle it around while pushing. If you try and push from the sides you won't get it. No real tricks besides that. Just make sure it's fully seated like I show, before trying to hook everything up, otherwise you'll end up damaging something else. Good luck!
Great video. Hey I was just wondering roughly how much would it cost to have this engine rebuilt and installed. I kind of made a mistake on financing a 2012 528i with 115k miles so to get my moneys worth I eventually want to get the motor rebuilt rather than replaced with another high mileage motor
fantastic videos on how to replace everything on the BMW. Btw do you have a video on how to put back axle and control arm? I am having issues putting back axles and finding out the torque spec for control arms.
boss i got a intake camshaft out of tolerance code, in limp mode, timing chain was replaced 30k miles ago, i did early oil changes too, could it be the intake vanoss gear seized or something, as in my mind if chain was stretched wouldn't it give a exhaust camshaft out of tolerance code too. Please tell me what you think
Hi there, could be the vanos gear is bad like you mentioned. It could also be the bolt holding the vanos gear on wasn't completely torqued and it cause the gear to slip. Either way you will need to take the valve cover off and inspect. Good luck!
Sweet rebuild! I sure wish all of my hoses and clamps clipped on as nice and fast as yours did. Lol I had to literally fight to get some of them on. Looks like you did an awesome job with the F30. I just took the X1 down the road and only code I'm getting is the Power Management standby current violation, I clear it and it comes back before I even turn the car on and just put the scanner in it's already back ya know. I think my battery is pretty bad. I noticed with the scanner that the battery hasn't been replaced since it was around 55k on it and blew a head gasket around 104k so yeah it's pretty old. The HPFP is getting really hotter than I would expect. I pointed my temp gun on it after getting back from the store and it was around 140F , is that normal? Seems excessive to me
Yeah, start with a fresh battery and see from there. Like I mentioned last time, standby current violation usually means a module is using more power than it should at standby, or the IBS needs to be replaced. As for the HPFP, I'll try and use a temp gun on mine this week and see what I get so you have something to compare to.
@@bimmer.doctor Yeah on mine you cannot hardly put your hand on the oil cooler without it burning you pretty bad. That didn't seem normal to me either considering it's an oil cooler. Still though it's not running hot on my coolant temps no check engine lights as far as that goes. But as I said it seems to have something wrong with her. Some smoke coming from exhaust manifold after my trip to the store which is several miles away. I did use some Seafoam because the gas sat up in it for about 6 months so I added some of that in the crankcase and some in the gas tank. That wouldn't make the turbo manifold smoke some with an oil burning smell or whatever under the hood in that turbo area. Really strange! I may have to buy a smoke tester and run a smoke test on it to see if the exhaust is leaking. I don't see how it could I have new gaskets on it. Just getting sick of the worry with it.
@@bimmer.doctor Could be the HPFP going out or maybe even the water pump may not be pumping properly. I don't know it is getting crazy diagnosing this thing. I bought a block testing kit that when the blue testing fluid turns yellow then you have a blown head gasket, well it passed that test. I knew it didn't have a blown head gasket hence that is the reason I tore it apart in the first place and replaced it with a new genuine BMW head gasket, I just wanted to make sure I wasn't getting any combustion gases in my coolant from a cracked block or something and it passed with the fluid remaining blue in color. I just don't know I'm just tired of trying to diagnose something that is almost impossible to find the issue and throw more parts at it and that doesn't fix it. You get what I'm saying lol ugh
@@bimmer.doctor Sorry about all the comments however I did want to add that after the rebuild I had a Valve cover leak, so I replaced the valve cover gasket with an Elring gasket and it seems to have fixed it cause I don't see any leaks dripping anywhere and no drips on the dry cardboard I have placed under the vehicle. Buuuut the smoke coming from manifold isn't super bad or anything but it's smoke that smells like oil, so hoping that is oil burning off that I didn't clean all of it off as I thought I did. Maybe and HOPEFULLY I PRAY that is what the smoke is coming from on the turbo manifold. If not then that smoke could mean very bad news if it isn't the gaskets that isn't sealing somehow. I don't know. I'm just about out of answers. The fuel pump getting up to 144 f and oil cooler close to that is mind boggling. But the engine temp and coolant is reading normally. Really strange car lol
Been watching you since the 750Li series and I can't wait for a new video to be uploaded. Just out of sheer curiousity, what brand torque wrenches do you use? I think I saw a 1/2 Hazet in this video. Cheers!
You call those welds? I have been welding industrially for more than 40 years in the Nebraskan oil fields and I can tell you first hand from DECADES of experience that is no way to line a bead! I mean just look at the amount of slag leftover on that catalytic converter WOW! I'm sure absolutely no backpurging was done in that job. Stick to your day job man. Kidding brother, good vid as always. See you on the lanes.
5 years isn't even that long for an air filter... here in Arizona where car maintenance is generally disregarded, I frequently see cars having original engine air filters from 10+ years ago, and cabin filters that are 15+ years old. It's crazy because this is a very dry, dusty climate, the exact type of place that filters should be replaced twice as often.
Wow… and then those same people will be surprised when they get hit with a repair bill for thousands of dollars, after neglecting the car for years lol
Yeah I thought that was odd too. It's exaggerated on the video since the engine was also shaking and there was some weird camera stabilizing effect going on. I thought that maybe since the tensioner is oil pressure driven, it wasn't fully tensioned on the chain. When it started and oil pressure reach normal, it smoothed out. Not sure if that's actually the reason but that's all I can come up with!
Hello there, I have a 2013 BMW 328XI F30, I was wondering if the compression in the cylinder is okay, I checked them 1 through 4 (dry) Cylinder 1: 215 PSI Cylinder 2: 220 PSI Cylinder 3: 225 PSI Cylinder 4: 230 PSI Was not able to find what value of a N20 healthy engine, what compression value, maybe you can help me since you have ISTA.
Hi there, that’s actually the highest I’ve ever seen on an N20. It could possibly be indicative of carbon buildup. The most important thing is the cylinders are all relatively close to each other, and yours are all very close so the engine is very healthy. Are you having issues?
@@bimmer.doctor The only issue I'm having is getting a code that says: 118002: mixture control: mixture to rich. It's burning too much gas. Just to give a reference 6.5 gallon (24.4 liters) does about 150km. Which is terrible. I replaced the fuel injectors (coded the new value) spark plug changed, air filter changed. Still same. When I start the car and leave it overnight it starts right away and then leave it on idle for the engine to warm up after 1 minutes or so it's turns off like it ran out of gas and when I start again, does again the same and then after that it's perfectly fine and does not happen again till you leave it over night again. This issue is driving me crazy and nobody can tell me what it is? Aside from that when driving no issues other than too much gas this car is eating. My car has about 108,000km. Any ideas 💡?
@@amybella 24.4L over 150km, so about 16L/100km. That's pretty bad. For comparison, I average about 11-12L/100km on this car and I drive very aggressively... You'll need to do some more troubleshooting. Start by reading as many data streams as you can, fuel pressure, MAF, MAP, IAT, STFT, LTFT, and see if you can find anything. One of your sensors may be giving the DME wrong information causing it to dump more fuel than it needs to. One more thing you can try is to unplug the MAF and see how the car runs. If it runs well, you have a vacuum leak, or a bad sensor.
@@bimmer.doctor Thank you so much for trying to help. I will try to unplug maf and see if it changes anything. Can I drive the car like that unplugged? To see if it makes any changes till I get gas again. If not I will try to test the things you tested. I don’t have the ISTA software I do have a Bimmercode app and Bimmerlink and OBD scanner. I think I should maybe get the ISTA software even though dunno how to use it lol. But I will keep you posted.
@amybella Yes you can drive it like that. Unplugging the MAF forces the car to operate in “closed loop” so instead of relying on the data coming from the sensors, it runs on base maps the dme has stored. That way you’ll be able to eliminate if there’s any bad data coming through. Good luck!
Please I need your help N20 engine in 328i xdrive Just stop without any warning sign And refuse to turn even with a tool I open it and saw that the metal bearings on the connecting rod gum on the crankshaft I changed it and the engine does the same thing
After I brought it back in, did a quick visual inspection and as I thought, there was just a hose not fully seated, one of the evap lines under the airbox. Clicked it in and problem solved!
