Thank you for putting in the time and effort to make these instructional videos. I’m 70 yrs old and I refinished a walnut gunstock with TruOil when I was 15 and it still looks great. My attempt at using TruOil to finish a walnut and Sitka build was OK but not great mostly because of my application technique. I’ll try it again someday using your technique. I’ve had pretty decent results using MinWax Antique Oil finish in the red can which is an oil varnish blend. Some gun restorers use it. Makes a great guitar neck finish imho. Sand the the coats in while wet using successively higher grits of wet or dry sand paper with each coat to fill the grain. ymmv
Did you add stain or dye to the Tru-oil? Did I miss it in the video? The process is like a french polish, but tru-oil does not rewet the previous coast like shellac does. But I like the way you are using the method to apply the Tru-oil.
Yes, definitely. Tru-oil is tradditionally used for gun stocks. Tru-oil is manufactured by Birchwood Casey, a company that has been making products to protect guns for a long time. Quite a number of luthiers have adopted Tru-oil for use on guitars. Thats what I use.
@@EricSchaeferGuitars Thanks, sorry I didnt put it in a question. For the hand in the soundhole, when aplying TO, I use an old clamp thru the soundhole with a woodblock inside (to protect the braces) and on top of the fretboard. Seen here on the video. Easy to work on the back to, i put the clamp in the guitar vise. Clean and safe ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-W_qkWKvjaBo.html
One of the reasons is becaused he thinned it. Thinning it works it better wiping it on. Tru-oil is already made to be wiped on, but thinking it makes for a thinner coat.
Each coat is very thin, so he needs several coats to build up enough finish to protect the wood. If he applied all the finish in a single coat, he would have trouble keeping it level.
