If you value surfing and your well being, SoCal isn't an option in this age. Gotta move somewhere else. Off season Rincon is beautiful tho. I doubt that will ever get crowded.
2 cents - I see lots of comments on surfing etiquette and very few who actually spend years and decades of their lives surfing that break. From someone who’s been surfing there for 30 years since I was 5; the single worst thing that the Johnny-come-lately surfers do is instinctively paddle straight for the channel when the solid waves roll through the reef. The type of s%#t that legitimately gets you kicked out from any break wherever real surfing rules apply. Long boarders, mid-lengths and 5’11”’s I’ve seen the worst fuckery of COWARDS paddling to the channel to avoid a 6’ faced barreling wave and completely ruining a man’s perfectly placed tube ride. Paddle to the north if you’re caught inside trying for scraps and take it like a man. Anyone caught trashing the man we all look up too is putting the locals on notice. You’re doing us a favor.
That's about as perfect as that place gets but the crowd can make things dangerous. I know 2 very experienced surfers who were hurt there pretty bad from collisions. One of them had surfed there since the early 60s. That injury started him on a health downslide leading to his passing. P.s. great footage with the best song the Stones ever made to accompany it.
This is why ppl need to respect the right of way and not snake. Ppl have been injured and killed.....by careless kooks that think they surf. Don't snake! Save lives in the water 🌊💪👍🤙🤙🌊🌊🌊🌊🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
I was thinking the exact same thing about that song. I was a 18 year old SoCal surfer in 1971 and that was the soundtrack. Can't You Hear Me Knocking on the album Sticky Fingers, 1971.
(3:05) I like it when the footage shows the movement of the crowd right before catching the wave. Good positioning and always alert pay off the efforts!
Every single one of you were a kook at one time and some of you still are...Yes even I claimed Kook status once upon a time. So some of you need to lighten up. Enjoy the wave, it's a beautiful thing for all of us to enjoy.
Agree with the second half. I don't think beginner = kook. A beginner who has respect for the lineup and etiquette is far less of a kook than an intermediate-advanced surfer who drops in, snakes, back paddles, and brings a bad attitude to the lineup. My nipples are soo hard yess daddy I like that
comment section is pathetic, why is surf just a bunch of sour dudes who think that they are the world's gift to surfing? it's a dance with nature, just enjoy your ride and run over who's in the way :)
Connor you’re a natural and proven great. Keep up the good work thank you for the upload! I’ve been drydocked and it was good for the soul to see the boys getting some good ones while I’m out. (Would’ve been watching from the kiddie bowl anyway)
My favorite Stones song, and there's lots. I read somewhere Mick just wanted to keep playing so they kept the tape rolling. Too many other good breaks around to suffer that kind of crowd. Regardless, one of the hollowest days there I've ever seen
I don't live that way anymore I haven't for a long time but when I do business down that way everytime I look at it there's like one guy in the water that can surf the rest just seem to be falling all over the place crazy
Great waves, a few nice rides, and way too many guys in the water vying for a spot. I surfed Swami's long, long ago and loved the place. Stayed at the Log Cabin Motel and had cheap meals at a nearby fast food place. I'm sure those places disappeared many years ago.
Not sure such perfect waves are even worth it with that crowd. I surfed all over California for years but moved to Idaho. I miss those waves but not a crowd like that one
A couple really great rides andsurfing hidden in plain view on some amazing surf in this edit. Definitely worth wading through the too crowded conditions and wipeouts to see the good stuff...perfect soundtrack too.
@@rubberducky9925 merp, ya the lil barrel is NOT an Uppers thing, it does happen. but again...where is this?? Not many options with that view and space in the OC. 🌊🤩
Back in the day before cell phone rats you would get a beat down when you snaked someone. Let's implement raw and swift punishment for the kooks that snake. Worked back then.🤙💪🍻🦆🌊👍
@@JunkWorld-Junk-Removal I just hope I’m there to watch when rubber ducky is out to “implement raw and swift punishment for the kooks that snake”. Heavy claim!
