Thank you so much your video help me fix my stove. Being a mother I needed my stove fixed and watching your video I was able to figure out it was the control panel and fix it all by myself. Now my daughters are impressed that I could fix it. Thank you.
Bill, the other day I watched your vid when my oven wasn't working. Tested the electrical inputs and found them good. Tested the heating coil continuity and found it good. So I ordered a replacement controller. $120 later (including shipping and tax), everything is now in working order. I felt confident ordering the part because your testing methodology made perfect sense to me. Thanks for saving me a chunk of change.
Watched the video once and went at it. Disassembled and put back together after a fine cleaning and you saved my family under $300 for the display/controller head. Thank you! The unit was purchased 6 years ago before Sears closed in my area.
Bro, it was my heating element on the lower part. I know this video was from like 5 years ago but you saved me. Thank you for the video. Clear and quick to the point. Also appreciated you explaining the Multimeter settings.
Bill, I do novice appliance repairs as a hobby. I can not tell you how many times your knowledge has helped me through a diagnosis. You are appreciated sir, thank you!!!
After trying three different repairmen without any success, I ordered the igniter (a generic one) for just under $30. I installed it and my Fridgidaire gas oven is now operational again.
Hi Bill, I watched your video and I went and tripped the main breaker even though it did not looked like it was tripped. Guess what??? My Oven and Broiler have both started working!!! Thank you so much for your video!!! I really thought I needed to buy a new oven.
As a Jerry rigger I'd like to thank you for showing how you made that homemade plug-in the check in real life not many out there who know what they're doing will show us things like that because they either don't want us to know how they really check it or they think somebody's going to get hurt either way if they're going to get hurt there in the back of a stove they're going to get hurt but you showed us something that very few people will you just earned a subscriber and thanks again
Bill Newberry, I am subscribed and have been since you helped me fix my washing machine, and then it was my dishwasher, (at least I think it was your video on the dishwasher) If not I apologize. Now I feel confident using the multimeter. I have troubleshot my stove and everything was good. so I replaced the control board and I am back in business. I did watch a lot of videos because I was not sure, but yours is the one that got me up and running. I can not thank you enough. Your videos are very informative and have helped me to save much on my repairs. I will say I get a little concerned because now there is not much that I won't take on lol. Thank you again for your help
Good video Bill as always...the touching of the terminals is strong with this video. One step I like to do is take a quick continuity ready between each element terminal & ground as well as between each terminal and the outside of the element casing. I want to say I've come across an element where it showed continuity at the terminals, but was internally shorted so wouldn't have picked up on it otherwise. Thanks for all the work you put in to this channel. It's legendary.
Would you mind going in depth a little bit more as to what I would do to test what you just suggested? I went through all of the steps in this video, and ended up replacing the control board, but it did not fix the problem. Neither bake nor broil element are heating up.
Thanks for your video. It didn't work .I don't think I'll ever buy a Frigidaire ever again only owned it for 4 years and it's broken already. My old oven worked for over 20 years with no problem.
I bought Frigidaire because of my experience with the older appliances, they just continued to work day after day year after year. I believe the major issue is the electronics introduced into all of the appliances, there weak and can’t handle longevity let alone a power outage/surge
Thanks for such helpful video. All electric oven run on 240 volts? I've just bought a Frigidaire Gallery electric oven, 3 wires, and I'm going to install it myself
Thank you very much! I replaced the element and the stove wouldn't heat. There was no thermal fuse. So, I was at loss. I did turn the breaker on and off, but after your video I thought, I'd switch the breaker on and off a few times. I was getting power, but not enough to the run the oven. On the third attempt all was well again. Thanks again!
Cannot upvote this comment enough. I had flipped the main breaker switch once before and it didn't solve the issue. Did it again 3 times in a row (few seconds between flips). Problem solved. Preheated just fine.
9:28 PM, I have a Samsung electric oven, it has an E-OE code which is for the dock lock which is working fine, when I try to use the oven it’s shows 175 degrees but never gets hot, I have checked the elements and the temperature sensor and all is good. What do you think this is? Thanks Ronnie
Bill, I suspected that the baking element in my Frigidaire/Kenmore stove had burned out. Rather than simply ordering a new element, I followed your troubleshooting instructions. I'm getting the proper voltages across the power terminal block. I'm also getting an approximately 16-ohm reading across the disconnected baking element. The broiler burner is also inoperative, but the top burners, clock, timer, etc. are working perfectly. Am I correct in assuming that the control unit is defective? Do you have a video on replacing the control unit?
I have a double convection oven, top oven is taking 3x as long to heat up. Bottom oven heats up fine but is making a funny noise with the convection fan. Bottom oven has only been used maybe 5 times ever. How many heat elements are there that would need testing before I determine it’s the control panel?
So if my Frigidaire professional series stove elements…both bake and broil are not working, And my elements are good… It’s a control board issue? Is there not a fuse to replace?
Hi Bill, thanks for this. What are some of the locations of the thermal fuse? Most videos on the internet show is smack in the middle of the back panel, but I can't locate it on my 2012 kenmore
I live in an apartment at the moment. Maintenance team could take a while and of course the other end of the power cord is through the wall... Anyway, the electric frigidaire stove/oven I have (not sure on model) clicks and lights turn on but doesn't heat the stove or oven SOMETIMES. I figured it was an electrical issue since it's intermittent. So this time I turned the breaker off to the oven, waited 5 seconds and turned it back on. Oven beeped because it restarted. Now both stove and oven work!! If you have access to the oven's power cord to the outlet then try unplugging that instead of breaker. Wait 5 seconds then plug it back in. If that doesn't work then try the breaker method. I know this isn't a perfect solution, but I still hope this helps someone!
Thanks you for your vidéos, they have server me to discover bécasse my stove Kenmore doesn’t work. The problems is that when I use the conv Bake, conv Roast and conv convert I the oven heats and burns everything to only 300 F. How could I fixait?
Looking like my control board is gonna be bad because the element test good and I'm getting proper amount of power. Do you have a video for changing out the control board?
I have been going round and round with my Fridigair Gallery Series Oven, ( GLEF369DSA ). My broiler element wasn't working; but my bake element was; so I ordered a replacement and installed it. Now only the brioler element turns on, no mater if I press "bake" or "broiler". I removed the bake element and tested it, and it was okay; but since I ordered a set, ( figured if one burnt out; the other might be ready to give in some time in the near future any ways ). So, I replaced the bake element as well, and still the same result. I have tried to find a fuse on this unit; since the bake element was working, before hand and isn't now .. yet, no joy. Is there a reset button; searchs for this unit seem to keep bringing up the same information. Any insight would be greatly appreciated, and would help me end the non-stop fussing from the wife when she will have her oven back; we have been using an air fryer to get by in the mean time. Thanks for the content. Peace
Bill, the burner im having a problem with heats up on high but when I try to maintain a medium or medium high level of heat the burner sometimes goes off. Is this some kind of thermostat problem? Thanks for your help.
Sparks shot out of the oven vent on a glass top stove oh, from the oven. It's shut the oven down, through the breaker and the panel... The control panel no longer comes on and the oven does not heat. .. the stove burner still work but not the oven or the control panel... Well I probably have to replace the control panel as well as the oven element? Or does the control panel go off when the element is not working correctly
Very informative video. I have a Frigidaire gas range. Model PLGFMZ98GCG. Bake hits temperature but the convection bake does not. The convection fan is working. Any thoughts? Thanks
@@tylerbure Unfortunately mine was the control board which was around $400. I took my multi meter and was checking different things and pulled the stove out and found a maint. manual in a pouch for a repair person on top of the stove. After reading it I found out it had a self diagnosis mode through the touch controls on the front of the stove. I did that it took 1 minute and it told me the control board was bad. After seeing the price I looked online and found a brand new Whirlpool stove for $899. I just went ahead and got it instead of spending $400 for a control board and paying someone to install it.
Thanks. this problem occurred after I used the CLEAN option. Is this happening to others? I have a Fridg wall oven and a stove with gas burners on top.
Good stuff, thanks for sharing. Sometimes you can deduct that the board is the problem simply by not hearing the typical clicking sound made by the relay when the bake element gets turned on... Are you in the business of Appliance repair ?
I think you confirmed my fears. Center/assist element works, bake and broil elements have good continuity and ohms but no power. Breaker panel is normal The control board looks and functions normal so my last suspicions are the control board.
I have the correct voltage and I have just over 16 ohms on the bake element. Is the circuit board the only other thing it could be? I don't want to go out and spend $175 on the board to see it not work.
My oven is a Frigidaire Gallery, about 5 years old or so; recently started having issues with not preheating in a normal amount of time, and now often won't preheat to the set temp at all. Thru a few online searches and trial/error, I've found that it will preheat properly to the set temp if I remove the top and bottom racks, leaving only the middle rack (on level 2 or 3). Any idea what is going on here when having the other 2 racks in that is causing the preheating issue? The elements aren't bad because the oven does heat up, (broiler too on that setting). The dongle must be getting correct voltage to power the unit, and the breaker must be fine again if the oven does heat to temperature. Other than that, would it be the RTD that is the issue? I don't really see how this is EOC issue if the oven does indeed heat up?
Ok, update since my last comment/ question... control board is getting 220 but no 220 is coming out of the board, to power the element. I know according to the video you were saying to change the main control board but a small voice in my head is also asking me if it could possibly be the temperature sensor bad. could it possibly be telling the board that the oven is already heated up and so therefore not to send power to the element? It might be a simple sensor instead of the main board ! I have located it but I do not know how to check it
Your video explains everything but the ohms 16 ohms is good or bad? and so no ohms means bad im assuming that you said that. But did i not hear it in the video?
I have a Fridgidaire gas stove. The description is FFGF3011LB - this stove is 7yrs old. The top isle is working. The oven comes on when it want to. I had to replace the bake element twice. I went on RU-vid and put the description and you gave me sone other BS stove that is the same stove. Could some if ypu have info on what I described please give me some feed back - hell my mom wants to cook for Thanksgiving and plus im not purchasing another damn stove.
My clock or nothing working up there. But the stove top dose. But it has been sitting in an old house we have. Got it from there today. Oven or clock dont light up or come on
Lol. My issue turned out to be both the element, and the length and stiffness of the appliance cord. When the range is shoved back into it place, the cord has a tendency to flex around and lever itself out of the socket. Initially, the panel lit up and burners worked, but the oven lower element did not. After replacing the element and shoving the range back into place, nothing worked. Just had to move the cord around to minimize the stress on it, and then it did not work itself loose. I was somewhat dismayed that the spade female connectors are not part of a socket that the element plugs into, but are just hanging loose, requiring removal of the back panel to access them and plug them together with the element. Am I just m I swing parts, or is this how they ship? The range was in the House when we moved in, and I have no idea how old it is. Previous owner could well have replaced the element previously and removed the brackets/sockets for whatever reason.
Good start but there is way more you could have tested to pin point exactly where the problem is. It could have been a $4 relay on the board which is easy to replace.
Yeah, but: this was just the most basic stuff. So if this all checks out, it is FOR SURE a control board? That's a $250+ part, non-returnable. Or is it a Relay Board...another $250+ non-returnable part? Or is it the over-temp switch? Or is it the temp sensor?. I sure wish SOMEONE would post a COMPREHENSIVE troubleshooting guide. So rather than chase my tail with costly non-returnable parts...I'll call Sears...albeit reluctantly.
Thanks for this straight forward video tutorial. I have a 110 volt Frigidaire Gallery stove. The oven isn't heating. I do have it plugged into a step down unit as I live in Africa where we have 220 volts/ 50 HZ. Is there a way to make this stove 220 instead of 110? The maintenance guys here seemed to think this was a door latch assembly problem, but they don't have experience with this type of stove. I bought this so that I could have all gas stove, but unfortunately it involves electricity to regulate the temperature. We often don't have electricity. Any thoughts on changing this over to 220 or whether this could be a door latch problem? (The door latch part is 60HZ ) Thanks
Hi everyone I have kenmore elite range with digital touch(no switch) problem is turbo broil elements want shut off can anyone help me please I change brand new element still problem is there
I have a ver old vintage stove that has worked fine I have replaced the heating element in the past and it worked fine...everything is getting power but the oven doesnt get hot.Any advise?
I have a Fridgidaire LGEF3045KFK. Temp will not go pass 150 in the oven. I replaced the broil element and the temp sensor. Still not working. What could it be?
I have a Frigidaire wall oven and had to replace the relay. A friend came over and pulled it out of the wall because the repairmen couldn't Unfortunately he removed the wires behind the control panel and didn't copy down which colors go where. The colors don't match the wiring schematics diagram Frigidaire sent me so I don't know how to rewire it without risking permanent damage when I turn on the oven. Any ideas?
I have a Frigidaire fes365esb oven that the bake and broil element are not working on. The bake element was replaced recently and is tested good. Broil element tests good too. Everything I've read so far suggests replacing the control board. I pulled up the control board and all the wiring appears good. Is there a way to electrically ring out the control board before spending $100+ on a new one? I hear a click after setting it to bake or broil. Any help would be appreciated greatly!
What do you mean by unstack the boards? Something def. wrong with my GE control board. The clock most of the time flashes on and off, and clicks. If I can push the oven and preheat "buttons" there is a pattern of clicks and it doesn't work.
I have a frigidaire range.. it has the red circle and line indicators like yours. For some reason it is not heating up properly and the heating element turns off and on frequently. It has taken 1 hour to heat up to 190... Any ideas?
Mine is dead. Checked it out and the voltage is 240 at the unit, and the element is 16.3 ohms. When trying to preheat, the indicator and temp lights work, and I hear clicks. Before I order the control board, is there anything else it might be, or anything else I should check out? Thanks, Bill. Fantastic videos. Just found your site and bookmarked it.
Took the plunge, since you didn't respond. Ordered control board. Old board had burned components at bake terminal.. New board solved proved problem.Was able to use old overlay without any issue.
@@davidkaufman4366 0k, thanks...sorry for delayed response, yes I have figured out since I was asking that 220 is present. Board gets 220 also but doesn't send it to element. At this point vids I watched said to replace the board but I checked oven temp sensor also, as I figured a faulty sensor might also be telling board that the oven was already hot. Sensor proved to be good so dang it its the board. No way we are paying for a new board on this unit as it has some chips and scratches in the glass top and the convection fan has also some problems. Thanks for the response, we are now still in the paralysis of analysis stage of deciding on what type of range to get next. Leaning toward induction top with convection oven, or dual fuel.
