Often my 40 V Kobalt battery (about 2 years old) won't take a charge and it's a big pain. This weekend it wouldn't take a charge and I started searching every corner of the Internet, but I don't have any electrical skills or tools depicted in most videos. Voila, today it started charging after 3 days of not! I just seated in carefully, it turned green, stayed green, and is now charging! It seems to discharge when it's seated in the leaf blower in between usage (which might be months), so I will take it out in between and see if that helps.
Have the very same battery and charger. My battery has 34 volts in it but charger will not charge it. Batteries seem fine and test ok. No corrosion or loose wires . The lite flashes red when the battery is installed. Thinking it may be charger. Any advice on checking the charger ? When you touch the terminals positive and negative on charger, there is no reading. With battery installed, it still reads 34 and not charging.
The cases have apparently been made differently over time but on mine there are middle side clips (a bit longer than shown in this vid) that must be pushed in on at least 1 side after the screws are out. Use a thin knife to push the clip in and pull it apart carefully. Slow gentle (at first) trial and error. It's plastic.
What is the pinout on this battery? The outside ones are labeled + and - but what are the middle two? I'm asking because I would like to substitute a Kobalt 40v with jumper wires. It also has four terminals with the middle two labeled as Omega and C. I'm wondering if they are the same on the Skil battery.
is it possible to run this mower with different brand batteries? I have a bunch of Ryobi 18v batteries which 2 in series would yield the same voltage. I tried this and the mower would start for a second then give the beeping sound. Do you know if there is any communication from the BMS to the ESC that is required?
Question: I have a 60v greenworks 8ah. It was left off charger over winter. I've charged individual cells to with .01v. Each cell now has 3.88-3.99v. Put on charger and still blinking red. Any ideas. When initally tested, 10 cells were close to 3.31v. Battery is one year old. Any ideas on how to proceed?
I have 40 volt Ryobi that showed no voltage and I slowly brought the voltage up to 28 volts Then put it in the charger and it completely charged and it has been that way close to a week
Do you have any videos where only 1 cell in a pack is low voltage, and the rest are okay? I have a pack like this where only 1 18650 is at 1.5 V, and all the cells are spot welded together.
okay doctor i got a weird one for ya. old battery, but the charger reads and charges, and the indicator shows the battery is full. but tools cut out when using this battery. its not the tools or the charger. i get 40v testing the overall battery. when i check the cells i get 20.2v, 12.16v, 4.05v, -4v, and -12.15v i cant figure out how to remove the cells without damaging the pack. any advice?
On these batteries, what is the polarity of the charging pins? Can i hook an adapter directly to charge? I don't have a charger for a greenpower battery.
You can check polarity of any battery by hooking up leads to a multimeter, negative reading means reverse your probes and that's the polarity; positive reading means your probes are at the right polarity (red positive probe is touching the positive battery lead)
maybe left w/o charge for a long time.....its quite the same on a car if you leave your battery w/o charge it goes dead.....won't start or crank....its really no different quite basic
@@10OZDuster If lithium cells discharge that far on their own then they are faulty from the factory. I have cells that have sat for a decade and still holds a nice 3.5V.
Quick couple of questions for you. I spent about 3 weeks in Maui with my brother, and we spent a morning biking down a 10,000 ft mountain. It was a blast. On a regular bike, you have to get a ride up in a car, then bike down. I thought I would put together a pedal assist ebike to get me up, then just coast down for the easy part. I weigh 235, and I'm thinking I want to be able to take my 70 lb retriever with me. What specs do you think I would need in a bike to accomplish that? Also, if you use Kobalt batteries, you also need a BMS for discharge, don't you?
I've got a Milwaukee 18v battery pack that won't take a charge... how can it get the voltage up enough to get the charger to recognize it? Could you show which clip is positive and which is negative on the Milwaukee batteries plz? I have a bunch of other craftsman battery packs that I think I could use to "jump" the Milwaukee but I don't know which is positive and which is negative on the Milwaukee. Thank you for any help, it would be greatly appreciated!
It usually says on the battery the (+) and (-) signs. Some don't. You can use a multimeter (volt meter) to determine its polarity. If it shows a (-) sign on your volt meter, it's the other way around.
You will have to open the pack, because Milwaukee packs have a balance board inside. None of the external contacts is directly connected to a cell. I took apart some Ryobi 18v 9ah packs a few years ago to make an ebike battery, and the balance boards had markings for Rigid and Milwaukee as well...
Please don't mislead people by reviving a lithium battery around 0.2v. It might work for a while after restoration, but it won't last, and it's dangerous. That's its chemistry by nature
@stringinajarThe fasteners (screws, clips, internal) may vary from case to case. For example my clips do not look exactly like shown in this video. My screws were torx 10.
I love your videos. This can be a great way to "revive" a battery like this. My question would be the history; two cases (1) a batty this low could be "like new" and just run down. OR (2) it could be a older, heavily used battery with a lot of dendrite growth. How do you know which it is? I would assume it would be helpful to know the history of the battery. Or barring that, at least to store it in a fire-safe container? "Works like new" may be deceiving. Your thoughts?
That's what the load testing is for. Cells in a rougher shape would have a more substantial voltage sag. Even so, a fireproof metal container is a good idea for any lithium batteries!
