Good buddy , I gotta say..... Damn GOOD WORK ! Great camera work too ! Even though you mention that your not a "pro" mechanic , your workmanship is of PRO QUALITY ! I just did this job to my Montana yesterday. I've been working on my GM cars my whole life. Like you , I may not earn my living as a pro mechanic but my work IS Pro quality like yours is. This is by far the BEST video on youtube for this job. Nice clean and meticulous work ! This job is intense enough as it is without getting camerawork and explanations involved . You are a patient man . Extremely WELL DONE , my fellow Canadian friend ! Much appreciate what you offer in all your videos ! Exceptional work and vids. Thanks ! NB: Anyone with stupid or degrading comments on this video is a complete asshole and does not know how , nor have any clue on how to do this job.
Just wanted to let you know this video is still being used. I changed my bearing on my 2009 Malibu this morning. Your video made the job very easy. I had the same problem with the bearing splitting when coming out. I did everything the way you did, evening getting a bigger hammer. Great job and thanks again for doing this video.
information was beyond good but for a moment there couldn't hear what you were saying after you pulled the assembly out of the knuckle. but glad you took the time to show that cleaning is important as well as lubricant.
Awesome job thanks. Someone that admits to not being a professional and uses a torque wrench on everything. What a professional job. Took no short cuts like a professional would have done. Thanks again for taking the time to share and post. I to do a lot of my own work and need to film more of that myself and pay it forward.
Excellent , I have done car work for many years and still do most of my own repairs within reason , I always watch a video to see what I need and to see if there are any surprises , I gotta say your video was great ! Got me properly prepared for the job and let me know it is possible to do in my driveway thanks man ...helps seeing what you need and what you will run into before a repair job.....5 stars !
Sometimes I feel as though I include too much information BUT when hearing comments such as this, I realize that if one little piece of info has helped someone, then I've accomplished what I have set out to do....help people. Thanks
man you are a saint ive watched everyone of your 08 malibu repair vids and they have saved my ass numerous times many thanks from mississippi and from my 08 3.6l malibu
Fantastic video,I have a 07 Malibu @355910 miles being the second owner I looked all over for video to replace the hub, yours helped the best as I was able remove it with anger and a hammer/mallet. I reinstalled everything but still hear the noise im assuming both front hubs went bad as i drove through flooded streets 5 weeks back. Took it to the stealership they quoted me 1500 for just the parts and both sway bar links, outer tie rods, and front struts. I paid only a fifth of that. All in all thanks for your video.
Thank you for providing the list of tools ( nothing is worst then starting a job and realizing that you need some odd socket size that you don't have yet in the tool box ) and torque specs.
I had been planning to do mine for several months and was looking for videos that showed the whole process. Found other makes and even one for a Buick, but this one is complete and accurate, right down to the size of the sockets needed. Order Timken bearings from Rock Auto and did both of mine today in no time. Thank you very much for taking the time to make and share this video. Mine is a 2011 3.6L V6 with 93,000 miles and it is identical to what is found in the video. Just a note: I had to tap the 35mm socket onto both axle nuts, but other than that there were no difficulties. Thankfully mine came apart with just a few taps of the hammer, and very little corrosion anywhere. After I submit this post I'm gonna share this video on ChevyMalibuForum dot com. I'm sure anyone else needing to do this will appreciate this info.
Thanks for all the valuable information. You helped me tremendously with torque specs and the planning. One lesson learned: instead of hammering the axle out of the hub, go to your local AutoZone and borrow a hub puller, one that attaches to 3 lug bolts and a tension bolt that fits into the end of the axle. A couple of turns with a 3/4 socket and the hub is free from the axle. Not a criticism, just an attempt to improve on your already great presentation. Thanks for being thoughtful and sharing the procedure.
Backyard mechanic for sure. You should "Never" bang two hammers together, it will potentially shatter and send shrapnel flying. This is basic mechanics. Invest in a 1"dia. x 8" long brass bar and keep it in your toolbox. Also, you can remove the axle nut with the wheel off without an impact gun by using a long handle ratchet and using a long flat pry bar between the studs (it won't damage the studs at all). After all it is just torqued to 169 ft lbs. Also try to use a linth free cloth to wipe the rotors or just spray it down without wiping it. Plain cotton rags will leave lint on the rotors. Great camera work though. You gave good a coverage overall thanks! I appreciate this.
You are very welcome. With the puller, there is no need for a hammer. Also, the top 13mm bolts are easiest when you use a short wall 13mm socket o= n a 3/8" extension. The 1/2" drive will not clear the spindle as well as th= e 3/8" drive and extension. 1/4" drive won't take the torque required. Keep up the good work.
Thanks. Our 2009 Malibu has had two replaced under warranty. We now have over 118K Miles and it sounds like its due for another. Irritating whine at 55 mph and above.
thanks this video was very very helpful to fix my 09 lt malibu my except the fact that my wheel bearing hub came off by itself after removing 13 mm bolts and softly tapping in the axel with rubber mallet but super super helpful how to video thanks alot. I have a request if u could upload a how to remove the lower control arm that be helpful I tried but came up with a major problem after removing all bolts the one closer to to the engine has no room to completely come off help please ? and thank you again for such a helpful video
+Gio Espinoza Sorry, I have never changed the lower control arm on this car. I would not be of any help to you for this job. Your comment is greatly appreciated.
Thanks friend and great editing! :) BTW I found if you leave the 35mm nut flush on the end of the axle you can get a better hit with your hammer. Exacly flush though and you will not hurt your threads.
Great video ! Now I can do it on my own,last one cost me a lot......I like the way you explained the precedure seems easy to follow. But is it the same on ltz 3.6? Must be , thanks and keep up the good work
I loosened up the bolt used to clamp the steering knuckle to the lower ball joint a d hit all around the hub with blaster and the hub came out much easier. good vid helped me out
hello sir.. I've watched all your videos and they have all have helped me and made it easier for my to work on my Malibu too. I was wonder if you had any trouble with your car lately related to electrical portion of the car. I've been have these spurts of "check engine lights" come on. The messages I get are ( engine power reduced, service traction and service esc) these 3 pop up and I can't figure it out. With those the engine won't go above 40mph and hard shifting and weird engine hesitation. If you have any idea it would help a lot of us that are having this same issue. please any insight or knowledge would help. thank you very much. please continue to make more videos very informative and helpful.
+Andre Reed We had a similar issue with ours a few years ago. At the time when that happened we had a recall notice to replace the catalytic converter. After GM replaced the cat, the problem was gone. This may not be the case with you but it's a possibility. Anytime there is a major fault, the computer will reduce power to protect the engine from further damage. When it powers down like that it also causes erratic shifting and driveability.
Great video, car is silent again, although I ran into a problem. My abs sensor light won't shut off which also won't let me engage the traction control.... By chance could it be a faulty sensor on the hub/wheel bearing itself?
+Jeff Kimber Anything is possible but I would check the ABS wire connector by the wheel first. If that seems OK, then I would disconnect the battery for several minutes to see if the computer resets itself. Worth a try.
I disconnected the battery last night in hope when I woke to go to work at 430 this morning the computer would reset and the problem would go away. Checked the wires from sensor to plug and those of the plug that are exposed. Everything is sealed and should make a for a good connection. Just talked to the parts store they are replacing it under Waranty but I'm going to have one more pass threw just to make sure no anti seize or something fell in or stuck on the sensor on the wheel bearing itself causing a bad read even though I keep my space clean, accidents happen. Once again great info. I was looking for the tools needed wondering if I was without any and sure enough you let me know that I was without a 35mm socket. Very straight forward and informative. I appreciate it, thanks again. Lol really don't want to pull it out and do it again but looks like i may have to because of a bad abs sensor on the part I bought.
And sometimes a shake from the front right tire area when going up hill or complete stop. Just rotated tires and alignment seems good and no vibration in steering wheel at all.
Hello Sir, Very well explained and detailed video. Instruction are very concise. I wanted to do it; but I do not have any pneumatic tools so it would be lot of elbow grease. hee ee Since weather in Toronto getting very mild, I might try it. Thank you for posting this Video!
+Mir Hussain If you don't have any pneumatic tools, just remember to loosen wheel nuts and 35mm axle nut before lifting the wheel off the ground. Thanks for your comment, much appreciated! BTW I'm just 3 hours away, near Lake Erie. I heard you were getting hit with freezing rain and snow by this Tuesday coming. Careful out there!
Here are the torque specs for wheel bearing and brake bolts according to AllDataDIY.com(most bolts are TTY and can't be re-used): Hub assembly bolts(do not re-use): 74 ft/lb + 75* Drive shaft nut: Tighten in three passes: 111 ft/lb; back off 45*; 184 ft/lb.(intructions that came with parts stated 159 ft/lb). Brake caliper bracket bolt, front(do not re-use); Tighten in three passes: 110 ft/lb + 45* + 15* Brake caliper bracket bolt rear(do not re-use): Tighten in two passes: 74 ft/lb + 60* Brake caliper pin, front and rear: 20 ft/lb
got a bearing out in the rear of my 08 3.6 vvt bought a pair for 79$ shipped came in 2 days free shipping I've only had the car 3 months and I've already spent 190 on a new ignition coil, 350 on radiator return hose and new seals in my water pump, my brakes got noisy so I bought the slotted and drilled kit from some brake warehouse in cali (I've ordered from there before they never send the right parts the first time but they're cheap and they work wonderfully and they pay return shipping so if you can wait it's worth it i guess lol) and they sent the right front calipers and pads for a 5bolt 18in and sent me 4bolt 16in honda rotors for the rear so I put the front on and am sending the rear back for exchange free of charge but I'm going to put on the hubs today I bought both because I know one is shot but the other one may be close behind it and the pair was 100$ less than any parts house ie. autozone in my area wanted for 1 @ 169-223.99... lol but I really enjoyed your video it was very well made and clear with your instructions and walk through as you never blocked a clear view of what you were doing great job would tryst you to work on my vehicle any day thanks a ton man
Wow that's a lot of parts for such a short time. Overall our 2.2L Malibu has been very cheap to maintain. It has over 200 000 kms on it now and runs great. In the USA it's easier to find cheap parts online. Shipping costs to Canada are usually too much to make it worthwhile to order from there. Sorry to hear you have had so much trouble. Your comment is greatly appreciated, thank you. Hope you got all the bugs out of your car now.
Imo it's a cheaply built v6 camaro in a 4dr sedan package built to compete with accords camrys and maximas they put a good engine on a decent body and filled it with cheap interior cheap wires and cheap parts not a very well built car but when it runs good the 3.6 with the vvt tis a powerful machine the car will spin the tires all the way into 3rd gear with tc off it has quite a bit of power
Not budging. I'm working on removing the steering knuckle and CV. From there I'm not quite sure if I'm going to take it to a machine shop or get a new CV and a junkyard knuckle. I sort of suspect with all the pounding and such, the CV joints may be compromised, and a used knuckle probably isn't any more than the machine shop will cost me.
I have a problem with my rear driver lock. I've been waiting for warmer weather to have a look at it. I will do a video when the time comes but it's all new to me till I take it apart.
I'm not sure how to answer this. Maybe a faulty sensor in the new bearing. I've never had a need to test one but the sensor can be tested. Hope this helps.
john1240able The problem is inside the door but I have to remove the whole latch assembly to get at the actuator. Not sure if it's the actuator or a loose wire.
The job can definitely be a bitch even with the right tools. I did an Aura and the hub wasn't giving up its hold on the knuckle Persuasion and swearing and a 10 pound hammer convinced it otherwise. The only advice I would give is concerning the ABS line and where it is positioned in the knuckle. Point out that the weep hole at the bottom of the cavity is not where the A.B.S line goes, but, as you did say, it goes towards the rear, which is the opening cutout in the knuckle that appears as if a part of the hub had broken off. My experience, until I watched your video. Some of us have bad days whereas we do not pay attention when the hub finally brakes free. Thanks.
Don't you find that most every job has that one bolt/thing that makes the job take twice as long to complete? Anyway, glad you liked the video, thanks!
i have a 2008 Malibu like you and i am sure that you are pist off of that car hopefully that i am a mecanic normal peaple with cry,o wait that code 420 lite up you will understan ,block catalist ,so expensive that i just empty it and put it back,,,next car a Honda,thank s for the video i was wondering the socket size and torque
Great video but holy rust. My 2011 has 104 thousand miles and isn't garaged and has literally not one spec of rust on the whole car. Thank you for the video.
I live in Denver. I changed my wheel bearing last weekend. The axle nut came off with no problem. Everything went smooth. Job was really easy. You're video really helped. I was going to take it in to get this done.
It took me over five hours to complete because my wheel bearings and tie rods was so rusted under my car i had to saw and torch some of them parts off smh
I had similar issues with both my Sierra 2500 and my son's Sierra 1500. When estimating how long a job will take, add rust and you can count on tripling the time it takes.
budleyca1 So far we had one replaced under warranty and this is the only other one so far at 180 000 kms. My wife says it feels like a bearing is starting to go again. At $277 each, it's not something you want to do often especially if you bring to a shop or dealer.
MudRFunR were do you buy those bearings ? i have a 04 malibu with abs, and mine where half that cost i might be getting junk parts, they seem to last about a year....lol
